1、Designation: D 4154 01 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted and Woven Beachwear and SportsShirt Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4154; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in t
2、he case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted and wo-ven fabrics comprised of any tex
3、tile fiber or mixture of fibersused in mens and boys beachwear and sports shirts.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted and woven fabrics used for interlining and swimwear.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric di
4、rection is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior
5、to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam3D 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2262 Test Method for T
6、earing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)D 2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fab-rics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Numb
7、er of Specimensfor Textiles3D 3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics
8、(Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Wove
9、n andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingsof Durable Press Woven of Knit Fabrics172 Colorfa
10、stness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter IICons
11、umer Product Safety Commis-sion Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this performance specificationgive only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATC
12、C, or1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D 415
13、4 01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical
14、 standard is referencedon www.astm.org.4AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20
15、402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.other test methods. The current editions of each t
16、est method cited shallprevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 dimensional change, n in pressing and finishing oftextiles, the change in dimensions of a fabric caused bypressing and finishing during garment manufacture.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to
17、 the individual ASTM and AATCC testmethods and to Terminology D 123.3.3 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.3.1 pressing and finishingThis term takes into accountall of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used ingarment production.NOTE 2No standard method is available for r
18、eproducing on a labo-ratory level the results of industrial pressing or finishing treatments usedin the manufacture of garments.73.4 Definitions of terms used in a dictionary of commonterms are suitable for terms used in this performance specifi-cation.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties
19、 of fabrics of woven and knitted fabricsfor menss and boys beachwear and sport shirts shall conformto the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements
20、 listed in Table 1 of this performance specifica-tion.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthet-ics, the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabricsmay find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirem
21、ents listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4154except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has b
22、een reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.7The development of a standard m
23、ethod has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class for colorfastness and DP rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 forvery severe color change, color transfe
24、r, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.CharacteristicRequirementsSectionKnitted WovenBreaking strength (load) (CRT) . 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.1Bursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50 lbf) . 7.2Yarn slippage, 6-mm (14-in.) separation . 89 N (20
25、 lbf), min 7.3Tongue tear strength . 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.4Dimensional Change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 1 % max, pre-finished fabrics 7.5.1After five launderings (see 7.5.2.2 if shrinkage exceeds 3 %) 3 % max 2 % max, post-finished fabrics 7.5.2After three dry cleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.5.3G
26、rowth 3 % max 3 % max 7.5.4Colorfastness:Burnt Gas Fumes2 Cycles:Shade change, original fabric Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.6.1Shade change after 1 laundering or 1 dry cleaning Class 4Amin Class 4AminLaundering:Shade changeStainingClass 4AminClass 3BminClass 4AminClass 3Bmin7.6.2Dry cleaning:Shade chan
27、ge Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.6.3Crocking:DryWetClass 4CminClass 3CminClass 4CminClass 3Cmin7.6.4Perspiration:Shade ChangeStainingClass 4AminClass 3BminClass 4AminClass 3Bmin7.6.5Light (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin Step 4Amin 7.6.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min Class 4A,min 7.6.7Non-chlorine Bl
28、each Class 4A, min Class 4A,min 7.6.8Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1)DP.5Dmin DP 3.5Dmin 7.7Flammability pass pass 7.8AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable-press fabrics only.D 4154 01 (2008)25.4 The uses and significance of
29、 particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thes
30、upplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Method (see Note 1)7.1 Breaking Force (Woven Fabric Only)Determine thedry bre
31、aking force, in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D 5034, using a constantrate of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed ofthe pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 3If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile
32、 testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be agreedupon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and withthe CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load testers shouldnot be used interchangeabl
33、y. In case of controversy the CRT method shallprevail.7.2 Bursting Strength (Knitted Fabric Only)Determinethe bursting strength, in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D 3787 using an approvedtype of CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment orTest Method D
34、3786 using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester as agreed upon between the purchaser and thesupplier.NOTE 4There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting t
35、esters cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D 3786 shallprevail.NOTE 5The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.Th
36、e test methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the supplier using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.3 Resistance to Yarn Slippage (Woven Fabric Only)
37、Determine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in TestMethod D 434.NOTE 6The precision of Test Method D 434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts (see 5.2).7.4 Tear Strength (Woven Fabric Only)Determine the tearstrength as directed in Test Method D 1
38、424.NOTE 7If preferred, use of Test Method D 2262 is permitted withexisting requirements as given in this performance specification. Theremay be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the tonguetear machine and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, these twotear testers should
39、not be used interchangeably. In case of controversy,Test Method D 1424 shall prevail.7.5 Dimensional Change:7.5.1 Pressing and Curing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 4.4 of AATCC Test Method 135.When appropriate press and cure specimen(s) as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and th
40、e supplier with respect to timecycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressureof the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate thedimensional change as directed in Section 6 and 7 of AATCCTest Method 135 (see Note 2).7.5.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser an
41、d the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5of Test Methods D 2724.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135.NOTE 8Launderable
42、 fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fibe
43、r. Goods labeled “dry-cleanable” are to bedry-cleaned only.NOTE 9Specimens prepared for 7.5.1 may be used for 7.5.2 and 7.5.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and curing dimen-sional change from the total dimensional change to obtain that portion dueto laundering or dry cleaning.
44、The dimensional change to pressing andcuring is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is not to beadded to the dimensional change due to laundering or dry cleaning of thefabric (see 6.1).7.5.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the supplier.7.5.2.2 Wh
45、en the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3%, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D 2594 using a 2.2-N(0.5-lbf) load. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does
46、 not exceed 3% shrinkage, then the fabric meets thespecification requirements in Table 1.7.5.3 Dry CleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724 (see Note 8).7.5.4 Growth (Knitted Fabric Only)Determine the grow
47、thof the fabric as directed in Test Methods D 2594.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 10Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in7
48、.5.2.1. Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.3.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by thesupplier (see Note 7).7.6.3 Dry CleaningDetermine colorf
49、astness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 132 (see Note 8).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.D 4154 01 (2008)37.6.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.6.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 11There are distinct differences in spectral distribution be-tween th
