1、Designation: D 4156 01 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Knitted Sportswear Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4156; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, t
2、he year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, u
3、sed inwomens and girls sportswear.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user
4、of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fab-rics Having Low Pow
5、erD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test2.2 AATCC Methods:38 Colorfastnes
6、s to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 1978 Appearance of Durable
7、 Press Fabrics after Re-peated Home Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Proce
8、dure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.2.4 Military Standard:5MIL-STD-105D Sampli
9、ng Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 sheer, na fabri
10、c that is transparently thin or diapha-nous.3.1.1.1 DiscussionThere is no clear distinction betweensheer fabrics and nonsheer fabrics. The purchaser and the sellershould agree in advance as to which category a fabric is to beclassified.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisperforman
11、ce specification, refer to the individual ASTM andAATCC test methods and to Terminology D 123.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted fabrics for womens and girlssportswear shall conform to the specification requirements inTable 1.1This peformance specification is under the jurisd
12、iction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D 4156 01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM webs
13、ite, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
14、 Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.5Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr
15、 Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specifica-tion.5.2 It is recogn
16、ized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the pur
17、chaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4156except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-ver
18、sy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate se
19、ctions of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFro
20、m each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage,7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength asdirected in Test Methods D 3786 or D 3787 as agreed betweenthe purchaser and
21、 the seller.NOTE 2Care should be taken to subtract the tare diaphragm pressurefrom the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric whenusing the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according tothe manufacturers instruction before use. Since there is no overallcorrelati
22、on between the results obtained with the CRT machine equippedwith a bursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these twobursting testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy,Test Method D 3786 shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT mach
23、ineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laborato
24、ry of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the type of material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During GarmentManufacturingMark specimen(s) as directed in Section 4.5ofAATCC Method 135. Press and finish specimen(s) as agreedupon by the purchaser and t
25、he seller with respect to timecycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressureof the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate theTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 fo
26、r very severe color change orcolor transfer.CharacteristicRequirementsSectionSheer Fabric Nonsheer FabricsBursting strength (ball burst)A133 N (30 lbf), min 222 N (50 lbf), min 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 2 % max 7.2.1Laundering (see 7.2.2.2) 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2Drycleaning
27、 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.3Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original Class 4Bmin Class 4BminShade change, after laundering or one drycleaning Class 4Bmin Class 4BminLaundering: 7.3.2Shade changeStainingClass 4BminClass 3CminClass 4BminClass 3CminDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade change C
28、lass 4Bmin Class 4BminCrocking: 7.3.4DryWetClass 4DminClass 3DminClass 4DminClass 3DminPerspiration 7.3.5Shade changeStainingClass 4BminClass 3CminClass 4BminClass 3CminLight (40AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Bmin Step 4Bmin 7.3.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4B, min Class 4B,min 7.3.7Non-chlorine Bleach Class
29、 4B, min Class 4B,min 7.3.8Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5 min DP 3.5 min 7.4Flammability pass pass 7.5AThere is more than one standard method that can be used to measure bursting strength, and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since theremay be no overall correlatio
30、n between them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 8).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D 4156 01 (2008)2dimensional change as directed in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCCMethod 135 (see Note 4).7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the
31、pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.4 through 10.1.4.5 ofTest Methods D 2724.NOTE 4No standard method is available for reproducing on a labo-ratory level the results of industrial pressing or finishing treatments usedin the manu
32、facture of sportswear from knitted fabrics.67.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings or as agreed between the pur-chaser and the seller as directed in the applicable procedure inAATCC Method 135 (see Note 5 and Note 6).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying proc
33、edure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.2.2 When the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3 %, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D 2594 using 2.2-N(0.5-lbf) load. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric
34、 and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does not exceed 3 % shrinkage then the fabric meets thespecification requirement in Table 1.7.2.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings or as agreed between thepurchaser and the seller in accordance with Sections 10.
35、1.1through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724 (Notes 5 and 6 ).NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degra
36、ded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleanedonly.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done the dimensional change due to laundering ordrycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. T
37、he dimensional change to pressingand finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of thefabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional Change 5 100 D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement afte
38、r laundering or drycleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23 after 2cycles.NOTE 7Washing conditions sh
39、all be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (see Note 6).7.3.3 Dry
40、cleaningDetermine colorfastness to drycleaningas directed in AATCC Method 132 (see Note 6).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDet
41、ermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations betwee
42、n them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine color-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.7.3.8 Colorfastn
43、ess to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the seller as specified in
44、 7.2.1.1 for washablefabrics, or after drycleaning as specified in 7.2.2 for dryclean-able fabrics (see Note 4).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable pressgarments determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in Section 10.2.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoot
45、hness durable press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaning fabrics shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the seller, prov
46、ided theymeet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable FabricsAct Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 sportswear6The development of a standard method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.D 4156 01 (2008)3ASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of a
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