1、Designation: D 4231 01 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Practice forEvaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and SportsShirts1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4231; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision,
2、the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific charac-teristics of importance in launderable woven dress
3、shirts andsport shirts.1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may beevaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to bea standard of performance.1.3 This practice may be used by mutual agreement betweenthe purchaser and supplier to establish purchasing specifica-tions.1.
4、4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluationof woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned orhand-washed.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of WovenApparel FabricsD 1776 Practice for Con
5、ditioning and Testing TextilesD 3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling forApparel,Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather ProductsD 3477 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysWoven Dress Shirt Fabrics3D 4154 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysKnitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shi
6、rt Fabrics2.2 AATCC Test Methods:88B Appearance of Seams in Wash and Wear Items AfterHome Laundering4143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End ProductsAfter Repeated Home Launderings4150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Garments4172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Hom
7、e Laun-dering4188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering4Evaluation Procedure 14Evaluation Procedure 24Evaluation Procedure 84Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions42.3 ASTM Adjuncts:5Shirt Components- 15 Photographs3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsFor definitions of textile terms
8、used in thispractice, refer to the individual ASTM Standards and AATCCTest Methods and to Terminology D 123.3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 dress shirt, na shirt designed to be worn with a tieand jacket and made with a specific collar size or numericaldesignation.3.2.1.1 Dis
9、cussionFor mens dress shirts, an additionalsize designation may be used to identify the sleeve length.3.2.2 sport shirt, na shirt designed to be worn eitherinformally or with a jacket, and which uses an alphabetical,numerical, or alphanumerical size designator.4. Significance and Use4.1 This practic
10、e may be used to evaluate pertinent perfor-mance characteristics of mens and boys launderable wovendress shirts and sport shirts.4.2 The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptancecriteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agree-ment between purchaser and supplier.4.3 The uses an
11、d significance of specific properties arediscussed in the appropriate test methods and performancespecifications.1This practice is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles andis the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Publishe
12、d October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1989. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D 4231 01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Docume
13、nt Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.4AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC27709, http:/www.aatcc.or
14、g.5Photographic standards for evaluating shirt components are available fromASTM International Headquarters. Order Adjunct NO. : ADJD4231.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.5. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens
15、5.1 Primary Sampling UnitFor the test methods used inthis practice, consider boxes or other shipping containers to bethe primary sampling unit.5.2 Laboratory Sampling UnitFor the test methods usedin this practice, take a minimum of two garments from eachprimary sampling unit to serve as both the lab
16、oratory sampleand the test specimens.6. Characteristics and Conditions6.1 CharacteristicsThe characteristics to be evaluatedand the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be setby mutual agreement between purchaser and supplier.6.2 Fabric Performance CharacteristicsEvaluate the se-lected
17、characteristics of the shirt fabric by methods directed inPerformance Specification D 3477 or Performance Specifica-tion D 4154 as appropriate.6.3 Shirt Performance Characteristics Prior to Laundering.6.3.1 Seam FailureEvaluate seam failure as directed inTest Method D 1683.6.3.2 Seam PuckerExamine s
18、hirt(s) for seam pucker us-ing AATCC Method 88B and photographs described in Fig. 1,Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 (See ).6.3.3 Shade DifferenceExamine shirts(s) for shade differ-ence from part to part as directed in AATCC EvaluationProcedure 1.6.3.4 Shirt AppearanceEvaluate the shirts for appearanceof fabric a
19、nd all component parts such as, but not limited to,seams, pockets, collars, and top centers (front placket) (see Fig.4). Specimens shall be mounted as directed in AATCC Method143, using appropriate photographic standards as described inFig. 1, Fig. 2, and Fig. 35and AATCC 88B. Acceptableperformance
20、requirements shall be as agreed between thepurchaser and supplier.6.3.5 Other DefectsExamine shirt(s) for any other obvi-ous defects.6.3.6 Dimensional ChangeMeasure shirt(s) prior to laun-dering as directed in Section 7.6.4 Laundering Conditions:6.4.1 Wash ConditionsWash and dry shirts according tot
21、he care label, using the applicable procedure in AATCCMethod 150. Temperatures shall conform to those stated inTable 1 of Terminology D 3136.6.4.1.1 Use any domestically available household laundrydetergent as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.6.4.1.2 When testing with chlorine bleach is ind
22、icated,introduce 1 cup of any liquid chlorine household bleachcontaining 5.25 % sodium hypochlorite (5 % available chlo-rine) into the washer in the manner directed on the bleachcontainer. When testing with nonchlorine bleach is indicated,introduce any dry nonchlorine household bleach based on a1 %
23、sodium perborate-sodium carbonate solution having a pHFIG. 1 Collar 5D 4231 01 (2008)2FIG.2PocketD 4231 01 (2008)3FIG. 3 PlacketFIG. 4 Diagram of Shirt ComponentsD 4231 01 (2008)4of 10.7 to 11.3 into the washer in the amount and mannerdirected on the bleach container.6.4.2 Ironing ConditionsWhen iro
24、ning is to be done, ironthe shirt(s) as directed in Section 7.4.3 ofAATCC Method 150,except that ironing conditions shall be in accordance with thecare label.6.5 Shirt Performance Characteristics After HomeLaundering6.5.1 Dimensional ChangeEvaluate the dimensionalchanges after five launderings, or t
25、he number agreed uponbetween the purchaser and supplier. Determine the dimensionalchange as directed in AATCC Method 150.NOTE 1Anegative dimensional change indicates shrinkage; a positivedimensional change indicates growth.NOTE 2Garment manufacturing dynamics can have an influence ondimensional stab
26、ility of the finished product, therefore the fabric dimen-sional stability cannot be used exclusively.6.5.2 Seam FailureEvaluate seam failure as directed inTest Method D 1683.6.5.3 Shade DifferenceDetermine shade differences frompart to part as directed in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.6.5.4 Shirt Ap
27、pearanceEvaluate the shirt(s) for appear-ance of fabric and all component parts, such as, but not limitedto, seams, pockets, collars, and top centers (front placket).Specimens shall be mounted as directed in AATCC Method143, using appropriate photographic standards as described inFigs. 1-3 and AATCC
28、 88B. Acceptable performance require-ments shall be as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.6.5.5 Other DefectsExamine shirts for any other obviousdefects.6.6 Test Methods6.6.1 ColorfastnessWhen testing with bleach is indicated,test according to the directions in AATCC Method 172 fornon-chlorin
29、e bleach, or AATCC Method180 for chlorinebleach, as appropriate.7. Method for Measuring Shirts7.1 ScopeThis method specifies how to measure thesignificant dimensions of shirts for use in determining dimen-sional change after refurbishing.7.2 Significance and UseStandard methods of measuringshirts ar
30、e required before reproducible results can be obtainedfor changes in dimensions after laundering.7.3 Procedure:7.3.1 Expose the shirt(s) to standard conditions as specifiedin Practice D 1776 for at least 4 h, or longer, as agreed betweenthe purchaser and supplier.7.3.2 Lay the shirt(s) without tensi
31、on, on a flat surface. Thefabric shall be smooth and free of wrinkles and creases.7.3.2.1 Mark the dimension to be measured with a suitablemarking device.7.3.3 Unless otherwise agreed upon between the purchaserand supplier, make measurements at the following locations asshown in Fig. 5.7.3.3.1 Chest
32、 WidthWith shirt closed, measure acrossfront of shirt 25 mm (1 in.) below functional armhole seam (Ato A, Fig. 5). Take the measurement from edge to edge, notseam to seam, making sure top and bottom are smooth and freeof wrinkles and creases, and record.NOTE 3For the total chest girth, double the ch
33、est width measurement.7.3.3.2 Waist widthWith shirt closed, measure acrossfront of shirt at narrowest point (B to B, Fig. 5). Takemeasurement from edge to edge, not seam to seam, and record.NOTE 4For the total waist girth, double the waist width measurement.7.3.3.3 Body LengthWith shirt closed, turn
34、 shirt with backfacing up and lay flat. Measure center back from bottom ofcollar band to bottom of hem edge ( to C, Fig. 5) and record.7.3.3.4 Sleeve LengthWith shirt closed, turn shirt withback facing up and lay flat. Measure a sleeve from bottom ofcollar band at center of collar band to bottom edg
35、e of cuff (Dto D, Fig. 5) and record.7.3.3.5 Collar LengthWith shirt opened, lay collar flatwith label down, measure from center of button to far end ofbuttonhole opening or far end of loop (E to E, Fig. 5), andrecord. When shirt has neither buttonhole nor loop, measurefrom collar V to collar V (F t
36、o F, Fig. 5) and record.7.4 Precision and Bias:7.4.1 PrecisionIn order to establish the precision and biasof this practice, a sufficient number of garments manufacturedto tight tolerances are required. In spite of repeated efforts toacquire these garments, the subcommittee has been unsuccess-ful. On
37、ce the garments are acquired, an interlaboratory test willbe conducted.7.4.2 BiasThe method in this practice for measuringshirts has no known bias and may be used as a referee method.8. Report8.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed inPractice D 4231.8.2 Report the following information:
38、8.2.1 Objective of test,8.2.2 Description and identification of shirt(s),8.2.3 Number of shirts tested,8.2.4 List of performance characteristics evaluated and theresults of each, and8.2.5 Conclusions, if appropriate.9. Keywords9.1 dress shirt; shirt; sport shirtTABLE 1 Water Temperature for Home Lau
39、nderingCold Up to 29 C (Up to 85F)Warm 32 to 43 C (90 to 110 F)Hot 54 to 66 C (130 to 150 F)D 4231 01 (2008)5ASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised
40、that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reap
41、proved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you
42、 feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual
43、reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).FIG. 5 Diagram for Marking and Measurement Locations (See 7.3)D 4231 01 (2008)6
