1、Designation: D 4235 01Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Knitted Blouse and Dress Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4235; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of l
2、ast revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used inwomen
3、s and girls blouses and dresses womens and girlsknitted blouse and dress fabrics composed of any fiber ormixture of textile fibers.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.3 This standard does not purport to address
4、 all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology
5、 Relating to TextilesD 2594 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of KnittedFabrics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength ofKnitted Goods and
6、 Nonwoven Fabrics: Diaphragm Burst-ing Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedGoods: Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test2.2 AATCC Methods:38 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Col
7、orfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Au
8、tomatic Home Launderingof Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC
9、 Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations.2.4 Military Standard:5MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give
10、only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definition:3.1.1 sheer, na fabric that is transparently thin or diapha-nous.3.1.1.1 DiscussionThere is no clear distinction betweensheer fabr
11、ics and nonsheer fabrics. The purchaser and the sellershould agree in advance into which category a fabric should beclassified.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC testmethods and to Terminology D 123.1This performance specifica
12、tion is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published July 2001. Originallypublished as D 4235 83. Last previous edition D 4253 95.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the A
13、STM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists,P.O. Box 12215, Research Tria
14、ngle Park, N.C. 27709.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.5Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive,
15、PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted fabrics for womens and girlsblouses and dresses shall conform to the specification require-ments in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser a
16、nd theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthet-ics, the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabricsmay find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all
17、 of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4235except for the f
18、ollowing characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameter
19、s for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an appli
20、cablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (
21、See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength asdirected in Test Method D 3786 or Test Method D 3787 asagreed between the purchaser and the seller.NOTE 2Care should be taken to subtract the tare diaphragm pressurefrom the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric
22、whenusing the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according tomanufacturers instruction before use. Since there is no overall correlationbetween the results obtained with the CRT machine equipped with abursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these two burstingtesters ca
23、nnot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, TestMethod D 3786 shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The method
24、s are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the type of material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:TABLE 1 Specification Require
25、mentACharacteristicRequirementsSectionSheer Fabrics NonSheer FabricsBursting Strength (ball burst)B20 lbf (89 N), min 30 lbf (133 N), min 7.1Dimensional Change:Laundering (see 7.2.1.2) 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.1Drycleaning 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles 7.3.1Shade Change, or
26、iginal Class 4C, min Class 4C, minShade change, after one launderingorone drycleaningClass 4C, min Class 4C, minLaundering: 7.3.2Shade Change Class 4C, min Class 4C, minStaining Class 3D, min Class 3D, minDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade Change Class 4C, min Class 4C, minCrocking: 7.3.4Dry Class 4E, min Clas
27、s 4E, minWet Class 3E, min Class 3E, minPerspiration: 7.3.5Shade Change Class 4C, min Class 4C, minStaining Class 3D, min Class 3D, minLight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4C, min Step 4C, min 7.3.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4C, min Class 4C, min 7.3.7Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4C, min Class 4C, min 7.3.8
28、Fabric Appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5, min DP 3.5, min 7.4Flammability pass pass 7.5AClass in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or color transfer.BThere is more than one standard method that can be used t
29、o measure bursting strength and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since theremay be no overall correlation between them (see 3.1.1 and Note 2, Note 3, Note 4, and Note 5).CAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.DAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.EAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D
30、42350127.2.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings, or as agreed between thepurchaser and the seller, as directed in the applicable procedurein AATCC Method 135 (Note 4).7.2.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.1.2 Whe
31、n the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3 %, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D 2594 using 0.5 lbf(227 gf) load. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does
32、not exceed 3 % shrinkage, then the fabric meets thespecification requirement in Table 1.7.2.2 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings, or as agreed between thepurchaser and the seller, as directed in Sections 10.1.3 through10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D 2724.NOTE 4Lau
33、nderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly (vinyl chlorid
34、e) fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be dry-cleaned only.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23 after 2cycles.NOTE 5Washing conditions shall be the same as
35、those used in 7.2.1.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 4).7.3.3 DrycleaningDetermine color
36、fastness to drycleaningas directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 4).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to per
37、spirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, thes
38、e machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine color-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine B
39、leachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.2.1.1 for was
40、hablefabrics or after drycleaning as specified in 7.2.2 for dryclean-able fabrics (see Note 3).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 10.2.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness (DP) (durable pres
41、s) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 rating from that of the fabricbefore it is laundered or drycleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the seller, provided theymeet or exceed t
42、hose of Part 1610 of the Flammable FabricsAct Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 blouse; dressASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of t
43、he validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Yo
44、ur comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comment
45、s have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D4235013
