1、Designation: D4845 10 (Reapproved 2018)Standard Terminology Relating toWool1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4845; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parenthes
2、es indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Referenced Documents1.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD461 Test Methods for Felt (Withdrawn 2003)3D519 Test Method for Length of Fiber in Wo
3、ol TopD584 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw WoolLaboratory ScaleD1060 Practice for Core Sampling of Raw Wool in Packagesfor Determination of Percentage of Clean Wool FiberPresentD1113 Test Method for Vegetable Matter and Other Alkali-Insoluble Impurities in Scoured WoolD1234 Test Method of Sampli
4、ng and Testing Staple Lengthof Grease WoolD1282 Test Method for Resistance to Airflow as an Indica-tion of Average Fiber Diameter of Wool Top, Card Silver,and Scoured Wool (Withdrawn 2018)3D1283 Test Method for Alkali-Solubility of WoolsD1294 Test Method for Tensile Strength and Breaking Te-nacity o
5、f Wool Fiber Bundles 1-in. (25.4-mm) GageLengthD1334 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw WoolCommercial Scale (Withdrawn 2018)3D1574 Test Method for Extractable Matter in Wool andOther Animal FibersD1575 Test Method for Fiber Length of Wool in ScouredWool and in Card SliverD1576 Test Method for Mois
6、ture in Wool by Oven-DryingD1770 Test Method for Neps, Vegetable Matter, and ColoredFiber in Wool TopD2118 Practice for Assigning a Standard Commercial Mois-ture Content for Wool and its Products (Withdrawn 2018)3D2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other AnimalFibers by MicroprojectionD2165 T
7、est Method for pH ofAqueous Extracts of Wool andSimilar Animal FibersD2252 Specification for Fineness of Types of Alpaca (With-drawn 2018)3D2462 Test Method for Moisture in Wool by DistillationWith TolueneD2475 Specification for FeltD2524 Test Method for Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fibers,Flat Bundle
8、Method18-in. (3.2-mm) Gage LengthD2525 Practice for Sampling Wool for MoistureD2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight andYield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com-mercial CompositionsD2816 Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content inCashmere (Withdrawn 2018)3D2817 Specifica
9、tion for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-HairContent in Cashmere (Withdrawn 2018)3D2968 Test Method for Med and Kemp Fibers in Wool andOther Animal Fibers by MicroprojectionD3991 Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair andAssignment of GradeD3992 Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or MohairTop an
10、d Assignment of GradeD4510 Test Method for Counting Partial Cleavages in Wooland Other Animal Fibers (Withdrawn 2018)3D4845 Terminology Relating to WoolD6466 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other AnimalFibers By Sirolan-Laserscan Fiber Diameter AnalyserD6500 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and
11、 Other AnimalFibers Using an Optical Fiber Diameter Analyser2. Terminologyacid content, n of felt, the number of milliequivalents of acidpresent per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribedconditions. D461alkali-solubility, nin wool, the percent of clean wool that issoluble in a specified alka
12、line solution under controlledconditions of temperature and time. D1283alpaca, nthe fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, ananimal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus). The fiber isobtained from several species, namely, Huacaya and Suri.D22521This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Com
13、mittee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Felt.Current edition approved July 1, 2018. Published August 2018. Originallyapproved in 1988. Last previous edition approved in 2010 as D4845 102. DOI:10.1520/D4845-10R18.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit
14、the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.Copyright ASTM
15、International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United StatesThis international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standa
16、rds, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.1DISCUSSIONAlpaca is normally classified according to type, repre-senting particular combinations of characteristics appropriate to aspecific use, or descriptive of geographic origin, b
17、reed or species ofanimal, or preparation for market.animal fiber, nany natural protein-base fiber.D1574, D4510aqueous extract, nin wool testing, the solution obtained bydigesting a material with water or with a sodium chloridesolution to dissolve soluble materials. D2165average fiber diameter, nin w
18、ool and other animal fibers,the average width of a group of fibers when measured on aprojected image. D2130, D2252, D3991, D3992average fiber diameter, nthe arithmetic mean width of agroup of fibers. D6500DISCUSSIONIn wool and other animal fibers, all animal fibers,regardless of species, can be meas
19、ured using the OFDA to determineaverage fiber diameter. D6500black felt, nthose classifications of felt manufactured tovarious shades of the color black. D2475breaking tenacity, nthe tenacity corresponding to the break-ing load. D1294, D2524DISCUSSIONBreaking tenacity is commonly expressed as grams-
20、force per tex (gf/tex), grams-force per denier (gf/den), millinewtons pertex mN/tex), or millinewtons per denier (mN/den). Millinewtons arenumerically equal to grams-force times 9.81.burr-wool waste, nwaste removed by the burr guard of cardsor burr pickers having a very short fiber and full of burrs
21、 orseeds. D4845DISCUSSIONThe nature of the waste varies according to the woolfrom which the burrs are taken.carbonized and neutralized wool, na term descriptive ofscoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities bytreating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying andbaking, crushing, and d
22、usting out the embrittled cellulosicmatter followed by neutralization of the acidified wool.D2118carded wool, nscoured wool which has been processedthrough a carding machine. D1575cashmere, nin roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair orproducts made therewith having a cashmere coarse-haircontent not
23、 exceeding a specified maximum percentage bylength. D2816, D2817cashmere coarse-hair, nthose coarse fibers in cashmere hairhaving widths greater than 30 m. D2816, D2817cashmere coarse-hair content, nthe total length of thecashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as apercentage of the
24、total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair incashmere hair. D2816, D2817cashmere down, nthose fibers in cashmere hair havingwidths of 30 m or less. D2816, D2817cashmere hair, nthe fibers produced by a form of goat(Capra hircus) indigenous t
25、o Asia and known as the cash-mere goat. D2816, D2817DISCUSSIONCharacteristically, cashmere hair consists of fine down(undercoat) fibers and coarse (outercoat) fibers.clean wool fiber present, nin raw wool, the mass of woolbase present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture contentof 12 %, an alcoho
26、l-extractable content of 1.5 %, and amineral matter content of 0.5 %. D584, D1060, D1334colored fiber, nin wool top, any fiber the color or shade ofwhich differs from the normal color or shade of the fibermass of the sample. D1770combing wool, nwool that is strong and strictly of combinglength, that
27、 is, 2 in. (50 mm) or more. D4845commercial composition, nin wool, the percentages byweight of wool base, moisture, and other nonwool-basecomponents in wool to which a specific commercial desig-nation is applied. (Compare commercial weight.) D2720commercial designation, nin wool, a term applied to a
28、 lot ofwool in a stated form, and having a specified commercialcomposition. D2720commercial moisture content, nthe moisture calculated as apercentage of the weight of the wool, top, noils, yarn, fabric,etc., in the “as-is” condition; that is, containing whatevermoisture, oil, grease, or other extran
29、eous matter that may bepresent. D2118DISCUSSIONThe term “moisture regain” as defined in TerminologyD123, leads to certain difficulties in defining the clean wool basis forcalculation, which do not occur when the term “moisture content” isused. Moisture content can be applied directly to the product
30、in the as-iscondition while moisture regain mercial weight, nbilled weight as determined by agenerally accepted method or as agreed to by the purchaserand the seller. D2720DISCUSSIONFor shipments of commercially designated scouredwool, wool top, or wool noil, the generally accepted commercial weight
31、is the weight of wool base contained in the shipment as determined bydefinite prescribed methods, plus the weights of moisture and othercomponents corresponding to the commercial composition of thecommercially designated material. D2720constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testingmachine, ni
32、n tensile testing, an apparatus in which thepulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance withincreasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.).D1294, D2524constant-rate-of-loading (CRL) type tensile testingmachine, nin tensile testing, an apparat
33、us in which the rateof increase of the force is uniform with time after the first 3s and the specimen is free to elongate, this elongation beingdependent on the extension characteristics of the specimen atany applied force. D1294, D2524constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) type tensile testingmachine, nin
34、 tensile testing, an apparatus in which thepulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force isD4845 10 (2018)2applied through the other clamp, which moves appreciablyto actuate a force-measuring mechanism, producing a rate ofincrease of force or extension that is usually not constant andis depend
35、ent on the extension characteristics of thespecimen. D1294, D2524core, nin sampling fiber packages, the portion of wool orother fiber obtained by using a sampling tube. D1060cortex, nin mammalian hair fibers, the principal body of thefiber made up of elongated cells. D4510cuticle, nin mammalian hair
36、 fibers, the layers of flattenedcells enclosing the cortex, which forms an envelope ofoverlapping scales surrounding the fiber. D4510diameter, average fiberSee average fiber diameter.dimensional change in boiling water (felt), nthe change inlength and width with any associated change in thicknesspro
37、duced by immersion in boiling water under specifiedconditions. D461epidermis, nin mammalian hair fibers, the outside or surfacelayer of the fiber consisting of flat, irregular, horny cells orscales. D4845extractable matter, nnonfibrous material in or on a textile,not including water, which is remova
38、ble by a specifiedsolvent or solvents as directed in a specified procedure.D461, D1574DISCUSSIONExtractable matter does not include moisture but (1)isnon-fibrous material, (2) is usually oily, waxy, or resinous in nature, and(3) may include protein, particularly if the extracting solvent is ethylalc
39、ohol or contains ethyl alcohol.felt, na textile structure characterized by interlocking andconsolidation of its constituent fibers achieved by the inter-action of a suitable combination of mechanical energy,chemical action, moisture, and heat but without the use ofweaving, knitting, stitching, therm
40、al bonding, or adhesives.D2475DISCUSSIONIn practice, light needling may be used to supplementthe ability of the fibers to interlock and consolidate.fineness, nof textile fibers, a relative measure of size,diameter, linear density or mass per unit length expressed ina variety of units. D2252, D3991,
41、D3992DISCUSSIONThe fineness of alpaca, wool, and other animal fibers isexpressed as the average fiber width or average fiber diameter inmicrometers (m).flame resistance, nthe property of a material wherebyflaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibitedfollowing application of a flaming or
42、nonflaming source ofignition, with or without subsequent removal of the ignitionsource. D461gage length, n in tensile testing, the length of a specimenmeasured between the points of attachment to clamps whileunder uniform tension. D1294, D2524grade, nin wool and mohair, a numerical designation used
43、inclassifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed,and processed forms based on average fiber diameter andvariation of fiber diameter. D2130, D3991, D3992DISCUSSIONThis specification expresses the variation in fiber diam-eter by means of the standard deviation of the fiber diametermeasuremen
44、ts. D3991, D3992DISCUSSIONThe term “grade” should not be confused with the terms“quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that includes not only finenessbut also characteristics such as length, crimp, strength, elasticity, luster,tactile hand, and color, all of which affect the spinnability of the f
45、iberand the properties of the resulting yarn and fabric. The Bradforddesignations, for which no standards exist, use a scale similar to that forgrade designations (for example: 64s, 56s, etc.) and refer to quality andnot solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating a particularcombination of cha
46、racteristics applicable to a specific use or descriptiveof geographical origin, breed of sheep, or preparation for market.D3991, D3992grade, nin wool and mohair, a numerical designation used inclassification of fibers in their raw, semi-processed, andprocessed forms based on average fiber diameter a
47、nd varia-tion of fiber diameter. D6500gray felt, na blend of white fibers with naturally colored ordyed fibers or both and that has an overall gray appearance.D2475grease wool, nwool taken from the living sheep and whichhas not been commercially scoured.D1234, D1574, D1576, D2462hair, nnatural anima
48、l fiber other than sheeps wool or silk.D4845DISCUSSIONIt is recognized that this definition implies a distinctionbetween sheeps wool and the covering of other animals, notwithstand-ing similarity in their fiber characteristics. Thus the crimped form andthe scaly structure are not confined to sheeps
49、wool. It seems desirablein the textile trade, however, to avoid ambiguity by confining the termwool to the covering of sheep and to have available a general term forother fibers of animal origin. Normally the less widely used fibers areknown by name, for example, alpaca, mohair, etc., but collectively theyare classed as hairs.kemp fiber, na medullated animal fiber in which the diam-eter of the medulla is 60 %, or more, of the diameter of thefiber. D2968laboratory sample, na portion of material taken to re
