1、Designation: D4845 101Standard Terminology Relating toWool1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4845; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the
2、year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTETerms were transferred editorially from subcommittee standards in February 2013.acid content, n of felt, the number of milliequivalents of acidpresent per unit weight of felt, me
3、asured under prescribedconditions. D461alkali-solubility, nin wool, the percent of clean wool that issoluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlledconditions of temperature and time. D1283alpaca, nthe fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, ananimal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus).
4、 The fiber isobtained from several species, namely, Huacaya and Suri.D2252DISCUSSIONAlpaca is normally classified according to type, repre-senting particular combinations of characteristics appropriate to aspecific use, or descriptive of geographic origin, breed or species ofanimal, or preparation f
5、or market.animal fiber, nany natural protein-base fiber.D1574, D4510aqueous extract, nin wool testing, the solution obtained bydigesting a material with water or with a sodium chloridesolution to dissolve soluble materials. D2165average fiber diameter, nin wool and other animal fibers,the average wi
6、dth of a group of fibers when measured on aprojected image. D2130, D2252, D3991, D3992average fiber diameter, nthe arithmetic mean width of agroup of fibers. D6500DISCUSSIONIn wool and other animal fibers, all animal fibers,regardless of species, can be measured using the OFDA to determineaverage fi
7、ber diameter. D6500black felt, nthose classifications of felt manufactured tovarious shades of the color black. D2475breaking tenacity, nthe tenacity corresponding to the break-ing load. D1294, D2524DISCUSSIONBreaking tenacity is commonly expressed as grams-force per tex (gf/tex), grams-force per de
8、nier (gf/den), millinewtons pertex mN/tex), or millinewtons per denier (mN/den). Millinewtons arenumerically equal to grams-force times 9.81.burr-wool waste, nwaste removed by the burr guard of cardsor burr pickers having a very short fiber and full of burrs orseeds. D4845DISCUSSIONThe nature of the
9、 waste varies according to the woolfrom which the burrs are taken.carbonized and neutralized wool, na term descriptive ofscoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities bytreating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying andbaking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosicmatter
10、 followed by neutralization of the acidified wool.D2118carded wool, nscoured wool which has been processedthrough a carding machine. D1575cashmere, nin roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair orproducts made therewith having a cashmere coarse-haircontent not exceeding a specified maximum percentage
11、bylength. D2816, D2817cashmere coarse-hair, nthose coarse fibers in cashmere hairhaving widths greater than 30 m. D2816, D2817cashmere coarse-hair content, nthe total length of thecashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as apercentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibe
12、rs;that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair incashmere hair. D2816, D2817cashmere down, nthose fibers in cashmere hair havingwidths of 30 m or less. D2816, D2817cashmere hair, nthe fibers produced by a form of goat(Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cash-mere goat. D2
13、816, D2817DISCUSSIONCharacteristically, cashmere hair consists of fine down(undercoat) fibers and coarse (outercoat) fibers.clean wool fiber present, nin raw wool, the mass of woolbase present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture contentof 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and aminer
14、al matter content of 0.5 %. D584, D1060, D13341This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Felt.Current edition approved June 1, 2010. Published July 2010. Originally approvedin 1988. Last previous edi
15、tion approved in 2009 as D4845 09. DOI: 10.1520/D4845-10E01.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1colored fiber, nin wool top, any fiber the color or shade ofwhich differs from the normal color or shade of the fibermass of t
16、he sample. D1770combing wool, nwool that is strong and strictly of combinglength, that is, 2 in. (50 mm) or more. D4845commercial composition, nin wool, the percentages byweight of wool base, moisture, and other nonwool-basecomponents in wool to which a specific commercial desig-nation is applied. (
17、Compare commercial weight.) D2720commercial designation, nin wool, a term applied to a lot ofwool in a stated form, and having a specified commercialcomposition. D2720commercial moisture content, nthe moisture calculated as apercentage of the weight of the wool, top, noils, yarn, fabric,etc., in the
18、 “as-is” condition; that is, containing whatevermoisture, oil, grease, or other extraneous matter that may bepresent. D2118DISCUSSIONThe term “moisture regain” as defined in TerminologyD123,2leads to certain difficulties in defining the clean wool basis forcalculation, which do not occur when the te
19、rm “moisture content” isused. Moisture content can be applied directly to the product in the as-iscondition while moisture regain mercial weight, nbilled weight as determined by agenerally accepted method or as agreed to by the purchaserand the seller. D2720DISCUSSIONFor shipments of commercially de
20、signated scouredwool, wool top, or wool noil, the generally accepted commercial weightis the weight of wool base contained in the shipment as determined bydefinite prescribed methods, plus the weights of moisture and othercomponents corresponding to the commercial composition of thecommercially desi
21、gnated material. D2720constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testingmachine, nin tensile testing, an apparatus in which thepulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance withincreasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.).D1294, D2524const
22、ant-rate-of-loading (CRL) type tensile testingmachine, nin testing tensile, an apparatus in which the rateof increase of the force is uniform with time after the first 3s and the specimen is free to elongate, this elongation beingdependent on the extension characteristics of the specimen atany appli
23、ed force. D1294, D2524constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) type tensile testingmachine, nin tensile testing, an apparatus in which thepulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force isapplied through the other clamp, which moves appreciablyto actuate a force-measuring mechanism, producing a rate ofin
24、crease of force or extension that is usually not constant andis dependent on the extension characteristics of thespecimen. D1294, D2524core, nin sampling fiber packages, the portion of wool orother fiber obtained by using a sampling tube. D1060cortex, nin mammalian hair fibers, the principal body of
25、 thefiber made up of elongated cells. D4510cuticle, nin mammalian hair fibers, the layers of flattenedcells enclosing the cortex, which forms an envelope ofoverlapping scales surrounding the fiber. D4510diameter, average fiberSee average fiber diameter.dimensional change in boiling water (felt), nth
26、e change inlength and width with any associated change in thicknessproduced by immersion in boiling water under specifiedconditions. D461epidermis, nin mammalian hair fibers, the outside or surfacelayer of the fiber consisting of flat, irregular, horny cells orscales. D4845extractable matter, nnonfi
27、brous material in or on a textile,not including water, which is removable by a specifiedsolvent or solvents as directed in a specified procedure.D461, D1574DISCUSSIONExtractable matter does not include moisture but (1)isnon-fibrous material, (2) is usually oily, waxy, or resinous in nature, and(3) m
28、ay include protein, particularly if the extracting solvent is ethylalcohol or contains ethyl alcohol.felt, na textile structure characterized by interlocking andconsolidation of its constituent fibers achieved by the inter-action of a suitable combination of mechanical energy,chemical action, moistu
29、re, and heat but without the use ofweaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives.D2475DISCUSSIONIn practice, light needling may be used to supplementthe ability of the fibers to interlock and consolidate.fineness, nof textile fibers, a relative measure of size,diameter, linear density
30、or mass per unit length expressed ina variety of units. D2252, D3991, D3992DISCUSSIONThe fineness of alpaca, wool, and other animal fibers isexpressed as the average fiber width or average fiber diameter inmicrometers (m).flame resistance, nthe property of a material wherebyflaming combustion is pre
31、vented, terminated, or inhibitedfollowing application of a flaming or nonflaming source ofignition, with or without subsequent removal of the ignitionsource. D461gage length, n in tensile testing, the length of a specimenmeasured between the points of attachment to clamps whileunder uniform tension.
32、 D1294, D2524grade, nin wool and mohair, a numerical designation used inclassifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed,and processed forms based on average fiber diameter andvariation of fiber diameter. D2130, D3991, D3992DISCUSSIONThis specification expresses the variation in fiber diam-e
33、ter by means of the standard deviation of the fiber diametermeasurements. D3991,D3992DISCUSSIONThe term “grade” should not be confused with the terms“quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that includes not only fineness2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontac
34、t ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.D4845 1012but also characteristics such as length, crimp, strength, elasticity, luster,tactile hand, and color, all of which affect the spi
35、nnability of the fiberand the properties of the resulting yarn and fabric. The Bradforddesignations, for which no standards exist, use a scale similar to that forgrade designations (for example: 64s, 56s, etc.) and refer to quality andnot solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating a particular
36、combination of characteristics applicable to a specific use or descriptiveof geographical origin, breed of sheep, or preparation for market.D3991,D3992grade, nin wool and mohair, a numerical designation used inclassification of fibers in their raw, semi-processed, andprocessed forms based on average
37、 fiber diameter and varia-tion of fiber diameter. D6500gray felt, na blend of white fibers with naturally colored ordyed fibers or both and that has an overall gray appearance.D2475grease wool, nwool taken from the living sheep and whichhas not been commercially scoured.D1234, D1574, D1576, D2462hai
38、r, nnatural animal fiber other than sheeps wool or silk.D4845DISCUSSIONIt is recognized that this definition implies a distinctionbetween sheeps wool and the covering of other animals, notwithstand-ing similarity in their fiber characteristics. Thus the crimped form andthe scaly structure are not co
39、nfined to sheeps wool. It seems desirablein the textile trade, however, to avoid ambiguity by confining the termwool to the covering of sheep and to have available a general term forother fibers of animal origin. Normally the less widely used fibers areknown by name, for example, alpaca, mohair, etc
40、., but collectively theyare classed as hairs.kemp fiber, na medullated animal fiber in which the diam-eter of the medulla is 60 %, or more, of the diameter of thefiber. D2968laboratory sample, na portion of material taken to representthe lot sample, or the original material, and used in thelaborator
41、y as a source of test specimens. D1770,D2525laboratory sample, nin wool top, the portions drawn fromthe lot in accordance with the described procedure. D1770lot, nin acceptance sampling, that part of a consignment orshipment consisting of a material from one production lot.D1770,D2525lot, nin wool,
42、top, the entire quantity, not exceeding 20 000lb (9100 kg) of a single combing, that comprises a single unitfor which a test for neps, vegetable matter or colored fiber,or all three combined is desired. D1770lot sample, none or more shipping units taken at random torepresent an acceptance sampling l
43、ot and used as a source oflaboratory samples. D2525med fiber, na medullated animal fiber in which the diameterof the medulla is less than 60 % of the diameter of the fiber.D2968medulla, nin mammalian hair fibers, the more or lesscontinuous cellular marrow inside the cortical layer in mostmedium and
44、coarse fibers. D2968medullated fiber, nan animal fiber that in its original stateincludes a medulla. D2968merino, adjfrom pure-bred merino sheep. D4845DISCUSSIONMerino wool usually has a fiber diameter of 24 m orless.mohair, nthe hair of theAngora goat, Capra species. D3991,D3992moisture content, nt
45、he amount of moisture in a materialdetermined under prescribed conditions and expressed as apercentage of the mass of the moist material, that is, theoriginal mass comprising the dried substance plus anymoisture present. D1576, D2462DISCUSSIONThe term “mass” is the correct designation for thepropert
46、y commonly designated as “weight.”Aslight amount of residualmoisture may not be removed from a specimen subjected to ovendrying because of the relative humidity of the ambient air. The amountof moisture retained by a specimen may be estimated from publisheddata.3There may also be a slight additional
47、 loss in mass caused by theevaporation of volatile material other than water, the amount dependingon the characteristics of any added oils or emulsions.moisture-free, adjthe condition of a material that has beenexposed in an atmosphere of desiccated air until there is nofurther significant change in
48、 its mass. D1576, D2462DISCUSSIONHeating the material and the desiccated air to tempera-tures as high as 110C increases the rate of moisture loss but does notchange the final equilibrium mass of the moisture-free material.moisture regain, nthe amount of moisture in a materialdetermined under prescri
49、bed conditions and expressed as apercentage of the mass of the moisture-free material. D1576,D2462natural fiber, na class name for various genera of fibers(including filaments) of (1) animal, (2) mineral, or (3)vegetable origin. D4845DISCUSSIONExamples(1) Silk and wool, (2) asbestos, (3) cotton,flax, jute, ramie.needled felt, na textile structure composed entirely of fibersphysically interlocked and reoriented through the action offelting needles. D2475nep, none or more fibers occurri
