1、Designation: D5646 11D5646 13Standard Terminology Relating toSeams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D5646; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revisio
2、n. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewing machines designed for home use and provides a uniform, easilyunderstood lang
3、uage for the definitions and descriptions of seams and seam finishes used in home sewing.1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily consisten with those used in the apparel or home furnishings manufacturingindustries.1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use in the preparati
4、on of educational materials and pattern guide sheetsfor home sewing.1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition, a discussion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and an illustrationof one or more possible stitch patterns. This terminology does not include stitches made by sergers,
5、hemmers, or by attachmentsto the home sewing machines.1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on a conventional sewing machine or by hand.1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine isavailable.1.1.1.5 Section 3,
6、Terminology, is categorized into two subsections, specific to the two areas of specialization under thisdocument: Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibilityof the user
7、of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatorylimitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams2.2 Federal Standard:3Fed. Std. 751a, Stitc
8、hes, Seams and Stitching3. TerminologyRELATING TO SEAMSback side, nin textile materials, the side of the material that faces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,right side.Syn. wrong side.)bound seam-finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in which another material is used to enclose
9、the cut edges of one or moreseam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam finish.) (See Fig. 1.)DISCUSSIONAbound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cut seam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitching through all thicknesses close1 This terminology is under the jurisdiction of AST
10、M Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2011Jan. 1, 2013. Published February 2011February 2013. Originally approved in 1994. Last previous edition approved in 20082011 asD5646 96 (2008).D5646 11. DOI: 10.15
11、20/D5646-11.10.1520/D5646-13.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.3 Printed in 1965 as Federal Sta
12、ndard No. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching, General Services Administration, Washington, D.C. 20407. Available from StandardizationDocuments Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to prov
13、ide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the
14、standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1to the edge of the binding. Material used may be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knit f
15、abric such as tricot or net. If tape orbinding is used, the wider fold side of the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance. Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosedindividually; however, seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as the armscye seam allow
16、ances of an unlined jacket or ona bound neckline.clean-finish seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in which the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edge stitched.(See Fig. 2.) (Syn. turned and stitched seam finish.)DISCUSSIONAclean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turning under eac
17、h cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm (18 to 14 in.) and (2) stitchingclose to the folded edge. A stabilizing line of stitching 3 to 6 mm (18 to 14 in.) from a curved cut edge will facilitate turning before stitching closeto the plex seam, n in home sewing, a seam made in two
18、or more steps. (Ant. plain seam.)DISCUSSIONComplex seams have one or more stitching lines as part of their construction and include double-welt seams, flat-felled seams, French seams, lappedseams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked seams, and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seam fi
19、nishes or decorative additions toseams.double-welt seam, nin home sewing, a complex seam formed on the inside of the product, in which one trimmed seam allowanceis enclosed and two rows of stitching are visible on the face side. (Compare welt seam. Syn. mock flat-felled seam.) (See Fig.3.)DISCUSSION
20、FIG. 1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 2 Clean-Finish Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 3 Double-Welt Seam from Face Side of FabricD5646 132A double-welt seam is made like a welt seam except that it has a second row of topstitching close to the original seamline. The three rows
21、 of stitchingvisible on the back side are the original seam line, the row of stitching through the outermost layer of the sewn product and the wider of the seamallowances, and the row added near the original seam line.edge-stitched seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in which machine stitchi
22、ng is placed close to the cut edge of eachseam allowance. (Compare zigzagged seam finish.) (See Fig. 4.)DISCUSSIONAn edge-stitched seam finish is made by straight stitching approximately 3 to 6 mm (18 to 14 in.) from each cut edge of each seam allowance.face side, nin textile materials, the side of
23、the material that is outermost in the completed product. (Ant. back side,wrong side.Syn. right side.)flat-felled seam, nin home sewing, a complex seam formed on the outside of a product with cut edges enclosed and two rowsof machine stitching visible from the face side. (See Fig. 5.)DISCUSSIONA flat
24、-felled seam is made by (1) stitching a basic seam with the back sides together, (2 ) pressing both seam allowances to one side, (3) trimmingthe under seam allowance to approximately 18 in. (3 mm), (4) turning under the cut edge of the upper seam allowance, and (5) topstitching close tothe fold.Fren
25、ch seam, n in home sewing, a complex seam formed on the inside of a product with both cut edges enclosed and no stitchingrows visible on the face side. (Compare mock French seam.) (See Fig. 6.)DISCUSSIONFIG. 4 Edge-Stitched Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 5 Flat-Felled Seam from Face Side o
26、f FabricFIG. 6 French Seam from Back Side of FabricD5646 133A French seam is made by (1) placing two sections of fabric with back sides together, (2) stitching a seam line 10 mm (38 in.) from the cut edges,(3) pressing the seam open, (4) trimming the seam allowance to 3 mm (18 in.) if the fabric doe
27、s not ravel easily, or to slightly less than 6 mm (14 in.)if the fabric ravels easily, (5) clipping or notching the curved seam allowances such that they respectively will fit the larger or smaller area, againstwhich they will be pressed, (6 ) folding the face sides of the fabric together, (7) press
28、ing again with the stitched seamline exactly on the folded edge,and (8) stitching 6 mm from the folded edge. By using this procedure, the cut edges of the trimmed seam allowance are enclosed completely. The twoseam allowances make a total of 15 mm (58 in.), the standard seam allowance width. No stit
29、ching lines are visible from the face side. French seamsare more appropriate for straight seams than curved seams.glued seam, nin home sewing, a seam formed by the use of an adhesive. (Compare sewn seam, stapled seam, thermallybonded seam.)DISCUSSIONAdhesive may be glue, heat-fusible web or powder,
30、or hot glue.hand-overcast seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in which hand stitches are sewn such that the thread wraps aroundthe cut edges of each seam allowance. (See Fig. 7.)DISCUSSIONA hand-overcase seam finish is made by using a needle and thread to form stitches that are approximately
31、 6 mm (14 in.) apart and 3 to 6 mm (18 to14 in.) inside the cut edges of the seam allowance. The cut edge of each seam allowance is wrapped by the thread that passes over the edge.Hong Kong seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in which a binding fabric is used to encase the cut edge of each s
32、eamallowance separately and in which the binding fabric has one cut edge enclosed and the other cut edge exposed. (Compare boundseam finish.) (See Fig. 8.)DISCUSSIONA Hong Kong seam finish is made by (1 ) selecting a strip of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric, lightweight knit such as tricot or tull
33、e, or commercialbias tape pressed open (25 mm (1 in.) wide), (2) placing the bias strip against a seam allowance, face sides together and cut edges even, (3) stitching6 mm (14 in.) from the cut edges, (4) pressing the binding away from the seam and over the cut edge toward the underside of the seam
34、allowance,and (6) stitching in the previously formed stitching line on the face side of the seam allowance, thus securing the under layer of the folded bindingto the under side of the seam allowance (sometimes called“ stitch-in-the-ditch”). The excess binding fabric may be trimmed close to the stitc
35、hing.inside seam, n in home sewing, a seam having seam allowances located within the interior, or the underside, of the product.(Compare outside seam.)DISCUSSIONFIG. 7 Hand-Overcast Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 8 Hong Kong Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricD5646 134Examples of inside s
36、eams include double-welt seams, French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked seams, and welt seams.joining line, nSee seam.D5646 135lapped seam,seam, n except the topstitching is farther from the fold than that of a lapped seam 6 to 10 mm (a class of seamswhich requires that pli
37、es of materials are lapped and seamed with one or more14 torows 38 in.).of stitches.DISCUSSIONLapped seams are identified by the letters, LS, as shown in Practice D6193.turned and stitched seam finish,nSee clean finished seam finish.lapped seam for leather or nonwoven material, nin home sewing, a co
38、mplex seam formed on the outside of the product, withneither cut edge enclosed and having one or two rows of stitching and a cut edge visible from the outside. (Compare lappedseam for woven or knitted fabric.) (See Fig. 9(a) and (d).)DISCUSSIONA lapped seam for leather or nonwoven fabric is made by
39、(1) marking the corresponding seamlines on both pieces, (2) trimming off the entire seamallowance (15 mm (58 in.) on the overlap or top section, (3) lapping the cut edge of the trimmed overlap section over the bottom section, butting thecut edge to the marked seamline beneath, and (4) gluing in plac
40、e and topstitching with one or two rows of stitching. Both gluing and topstitching maybe used. This seam is used on leather, nonwoven leather-like material, and vinyl where an exposed cut edge is not a concern.lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric, nin home sewing, a complex seam formed on the ins
41、ide of the product with neitherraw cut edge enclosed, and having one visible line of topstitching on the face side and a small fold formed by the topstitching.(Compare tucked seam.) (See Fig. 10.)DISCUSSIONA lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric is made by (1) folding under the seam allowance of t
42、he overlapping section along the 15-mm (58-in.)seamline and pressing, then (2) working from the right side and pinning the folded edge over the underlap section with the fold along the seamline,and (3) stitching close to the fold through all layers. Basting before stitching may be needed.material, n
43、in home sewing, a planar structure such as textile fabric, plastic film, or leather.DISCUSSION“Materials” used may include fabric, fur, leather and plastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary.COLSPEC/colnum=“1“(a) (d)FIG. 9 Lapped Seam for Leather or Nonwoven Fabric from Face Side of MaterialFI
44、G. 10 Lapped Seam for Woven or Knitted Fabric from FaceSide of FabricD5646 136mock flat-felled seam,nSee double-welt seam.mock French seam, nin home sewing, a complex seam formed on the inside of the product with cut edges enclosed and nostitching visible on the face side; similar in appearance to t
45、he French seam but constructed differently. (Compare French seam.)(See Fig. 11.)DISCUSSIONA mock French seam is made by (1) placing two pieces of fabric with face sides together, (2) stitching on the 15-mm (58-in.) seamline, (3) trimmingboth seam allowances to 12 mm (12 in.), (4) clipping or notchin
46、g, as appropriate, 3 mm (18 in.) on any curved edges so that curved seam allowancescan fit the area against which they are folded and pressed, (5) pressing open the seam, (6) then folding and pressing each of the seam allowances 6mm (14 in.) toward the other and the seamline, bringing the folded edg
47、es together, and (7) stitching the two seam allowances together 1.5 mm (116in.) from the folded edges. Mock French seams are more appropriate for curved areas than French seams.outside seam, n in home sewing, a seam in which the seam allowance of the completed seam is visible from the face side ofth
48、e sewn product. (Compare inside seam.)DISCUSSIONAn example of an outside seam is the flat-felled seam.plain seam, nin home sewing, a seam formed by a single line of stitching. (Ant. complex seam.) (See Figs. 12 and 13.)DISCUSSIONA plain seam joins two or more material sections; multiple layers of ma
49、terial may be treated as a single layer or section. Cut edges of the seamallowance in a plain seam may or may not have a finish applied. Sometimes a plain seam is reinforced by machine stitching again through both seamallowances together approximately 3 to 6 mm (18 to 14 in.) from the original seam line within the seam allowance. Reinforcement is appropriate forarmscye, crotch, and waistline seams. Reinforcement stitching may be along a section of a seam (as in a crotch seam) or along an entire
