1、Designation: D6193 11D6193 16Standard Practice forStitches and Seams1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indi
2、cates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and s
3、eams used in the fabrication of sewn items.1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabricationof sewn items.1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comp
4、rised of thefollowing sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:1.3.1 Section 5Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,1.3.2 Section 6Classification of Seam Types for which drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and1.3.3 Annex A1Seam Assemb
5、ly Recommendations.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibilityof the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatorylimitations prior to us
6、e.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 bartack, na reinforcement stitch that effectively minimizes tearing at the ends of critical stress stitchlines.3.1.1.1 DiscussionExamples of critical stress stitchlines include: ends
7、 of seams, zippers, pocket flaps, crotch/seat seams, collars, webbing and othercomponents. If the bartacking process exhibits an insufficient number of stitches, improper thread size relationship or shortenedbartack stitched length then it will fail under stress. Bartacking, because of the stitch de
8、nsity, can exhibit severe needle-cutting,thus creating a self-destructive characteristic if number of stitches is excessive, or sewing needle or thread size is too large forfabric. Bartacking is specified strictly as a relationship between length, width or throw and total stitches. It does not incor
9、poratestitches per inch as a typical seam may specify.3.1.1.2 DiscussionCounting finished bartack stitches is virtually impossible since the overall process consists of three components. The processbegins in a horizontal position to achieve the required length and then forms the familiar zig-zag sti
10、tch-line along the horizontalplane including backstitching at both ends to lock in the zig-zag stitches to prevent raveling. The zig-zag stitches criss-cross theinitial horizontal stitch line thus virtually hiding the initial stitch line.1 This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D1
11、3 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2011Jan. 1, 2016. Published May 2011February 2016. Originally approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 20092011 asD6193 09.D6193 11. DOI: 10.1520/D6193-11.10.1520/D6193-
12、16.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only
13、 to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versio
14、nof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13.1.2 needle damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial or complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a
15、needle passingthrough a fabric during sewing.3.1.2.1 DiscussionThis can also be referred to as needle cuts.3.1.3 seam, na line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually near the edge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapledseam, thermally bonded seam.)3.1.4 seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the
16、distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that edge.3.1.5 seam assembly, nthe composite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.3.1.6 seam damage, n in sewn fabrics, an adverse change in the physical condition of one or more of the component
17、s in aseam which would reduce the seam acceptability such as yarn slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture.3.1.7 seam effciency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam strength to fabric strength.3.1.7.1 DiscussionFor some constructions, yarn strength and stitch type can contribute to a higher seam e
18、fficiency value.3.1.8 seam slippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line.3.1.9 seam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioningand rows of stitching in a specified sewn
19、fabric seam.3.1.10 sew, vto unite or fasten with stitches.3.1.11 sewing thread, na flexible, small-diameter yarn or strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, or both,intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of material or an object to a material.3.1.12 sewn seam, nin sewn fa
20、brics, a juncture at which two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined bysewing, usually near the edge.3.1.13 stitch, nin sewing, the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit. (See also stitching,and stitch type.)3.1.14 stitch density, nin s
21、ewn seams, the number of stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam.3.1.14.1 DiscussionThis is usually expressed as stitches per inch (spi).3.1.15 stitch gage, n in sewn seams, the perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.3.1.16 stitch type, n in sewn seam
22、s, a numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewingthread(s) in a specified stitch.3.1.17 stitching, na series of stitches embodied in a material or materials of planar structure such as woven textile fabricsusually for ornamental purposes or finishing a
23、n edge, or both.3.1.18 yarn slippage, nin sewn seams in sewn fabrics, the displacement of one or more yarns from the original position,causing differences in alignment, spacing, or both.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this practice, refer to Terminology D123.TABLE 1 Stitch and Sea
24、m DefectsStitch Defects Seam Assembly DefectsLoose stitches PuckersPoorly formed stitches TwistsCrowded stitches PlaitsTight stitches UndulationsCrooked stitches Run-off (raised seams)Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed(felled seams)D6193 162NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle t
25、hread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on theundersurface of the material.FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A shallbe interlooped with itse
26、lf and with thread A.FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The threadshall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it
27、the full depth.FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104D6193 1634. Significance and Use4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam conf
28、iguration, and thread type which should be used fora particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can resultin failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured.4.2 General CharacteristicsThe characte
29、ristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability,security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form theoptimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these charac
30、teristics. The selection of the seamtype and stitch type should be based upon these considerations.4.2.1 StrengthThe seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength witha balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use
31、of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strengthof a sewn seam are:4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.1.2 Seam type,4.2.1.3 Stitch type,NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of thebottom ply
32、without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at thecenter line.FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A, which shall be passed through the material
33、 in the same perforationsfrom opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths,passed back through the material and brought bac
34、k one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.FIG. 7 Stitch Type 202D6193 1644.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and4.2.1.6 Thread strength.4.2.2 ElasticityThe elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins.
35、This will enablethe material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewn seamdepends upon:4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.2.2 Seam type,4.2.2.3 Stitch type,4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and4.2.2.6 Thre
36、ad elasticity.4.2.3 DurabilityThe durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and theelasticity of the material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” orNOTE 1This type of stitch
37、shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material from the underside and immediatelypassed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle shall be advanced one stitch length, passed throughthe material and the loop and imm
38、ediately passed back through the loop and the same needle perforation, and a new loop shall be formed to receive thesucceeding stitch.FIG. 8 Stitch Type 203NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material and brought back one stitch lengtha
39、nd then passed back up through the material. The needle shall be moved diagonally across the material and forward one stitch length, passed throughthe material, brought back one stitch length and again passed to the surface of the material. This process shall be repeated to form a crisscross pattern
40、of stitches on the surface and parallel rows of separated and off-set stitches on the underside of the material.FIG. 9 Stitch Type 204NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with one or more needle threads and has for a general characteristic that the thread does not interloop withitself or any ot
41、her thread or threads. The thread is passed completely through the material by means of a double pointed center eye needle and returnedby another path. This class of stitch simulates hand stitching.FIG. 10 Stitch Type 205D6193 165slide on each other. To form a durable sewn seam in these types of fab
42、rics, the thread size must be carefully chosen. The stitchdensity also needs to be carefully determined for the material so as not to cause excess tension which will unbalance the elasticityand cause puckering. It is also important to minimize abrasion and wear by contact with outside agencies to pr
43、omote durability.4.2.4 SecurityThe security of a sewn seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and its susceptibility to becomeunraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unraveling ofcertain stitch types.4.2.5 Appearance
44、The appearance of a sewn seam generally is governed by the proper relationship between the size and typeof thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight of the fabric.4.2.5.1 In addition to these general characteristics, the technique and skill of the sewing machine operators also govern th
45、eappearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factors which will adversely affect the appearance are shown in Table 1.5. Classification of Stitch Types5.1 FunctionBecause all stitch types require that a needle penetrate a fabric while transporting a sewing thread, it is importantto understand how the u
46、nique characteristics of every stitch type are dependent upon the mechanical actions of the sewing machine.See Stitch Type Figs. 1-66.NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. A loop of thread A shall be passedthrough the material and
47、 interlaced with thread B. Thread A shall be pulled back so that the interlacing shall be midway between surfaces of the materialor materials being sewn.FIG. 11 Stitch Type 301NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops o
48、f threads A and Ashall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.FIG. 12 Stitch Type 302NOTE 1This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads, A and A and A“, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of
49、threads A,A and A“ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.FIG. 13 Stitch Type 303D6193 1665.2 Stitch Requirements:5.2.1 Stitches are divided into six classes which are identified by the first digit of three digit numerals. Each class is dividedinto several types which are identified by the second and third digit.All stitch types shall conform to the drawings unless otherwisespecified.5.2.1.1 Stitch Class 100This class of stitch (Ty
