1、Designation: D 6554/D6554M 09Standard Specification for100 % Cotton Denim Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 6554/D6554M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A numbe
2、r in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers performance requirements for100 % cotton woven denim fabrics, prior to the manufacture ofjeans, casual apparel, wo
3、rk clothing, and outerwear.1.2 This specification is not applicable to woven denimfabrics used as interlinings or protective clothing.1.3 This specification covers the performance of denimfabric on rolls ready for garment manufacturing.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound unitsare
4、to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated ineach system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, eachsystem shall be used independently of the other. Combiningvalues from the two systems may result in non-conformancewith the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all o
5、f thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and to determine theapplicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D 123 Terminology Relat
6、ing to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam2D 1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel TextilesD 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD 3107 Test Methods for Stretch Properties
7、 of FabricsWoven from Stretch YarnsD 3774 Test Method for Width of Textile FabricD 3776 Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) ofFabricD 3882 Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven andKnitted FabricsD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D 7022 Term
8、inology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Standards3:Test Method 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crock-meter MethodTest Method 16(Option E) Colorfastness to Light: Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous LightTest Method 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home andCommercial: AcceleratedTest Method 109 Co
9、lorfastness to Ozone in the AtmosphereUnder Low HumiditiesTest Method 116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary VerticalCrockmeter MethodTest Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic HomeLaundering of Woven or Knit FabricsEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray S
10、cale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC9 Step Chromatic Trans-ference Scale2.3 Federal Standard:16 CFR 16.10, Chapter II, Subchapter DFlammable Fab-rics Act Regulations42.4 Other Document:Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology3NOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification gives only th
11、epermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current edition of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.61, Apparel, refer toTerminology D 7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:denm, indigo dyed
12、, jeans, heavy-weight, light-weight,medium-weight.3.2 For all other terms related to textiles, see TerminologyD 123. and the Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology.4. Significance and Use4.1 Upon agreement between purchaser and supplier, fab-rics intended for this end use should meet all of the requ
13、ire-ments listed in Table 1 of this specification.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2009. Published July 2009. Originally approvedin 2000. Last previous editio
14、n approved in 2000 as D655400.2Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.4Available from US Governm
15、ent Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthet-ics, the ultimate consumer of apparel made from these fabricsmay find the product
16、acceptable, even if it does not conform toall of the requirements in Table 1 or Table 2. One or more ofthe requirements listed in Table 1 or Table 2, therefore, may bemodified upon agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier.4.2.1 In such cases, any references to this specification mustspecify t
17、he following: “This fabric meets ASTM SpecificationD 6554 except for the following characteristic(s):” All excep-tions must be noted.4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Tables 1 and 2 areinte
18、nded to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimateconsumer demands dictate varying performance parameters forany particular style of fabric.5. Sampling5.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,select at random the number of rolls designated in an appli-cable specification or other
19、 agreement between the purchaserand the supplier.5.2 Laboratory SampleAfter removing the outer layerfrom each roll or piece in the lot sample, cut two laboratorysamples spanning the full width of the fabric and at least 1 m(1 yd) in length, along the selvage.6. Specification Requirement6.1 The prope
20、rties of woven denim fabrics conform toTables 1 and 2 specifications.7. Test Methods7.1 Breaking Strength (Force)Determine the dry-breakingstrength (force) as directed in the grab test procedure of TestTABLE 1 Performance RequirementsCharacteristics Requirements SectionHeavy Weight Medium Weight Lig
21、ht WeightBreaking Strength (Force), CRT: 7.1Warp 801 N (180 lbf), min 578 N (130 lbf), min 356 N (80 lbf), minFilling 312 N (70 lbf), min 244 N (55 lbf), min 178 N (40 lbf), minElmendorf Tear Strength: 7.2Warp 51 N (11.5 lbf), min 35 N (8.0 lbf), min 18 N (4.0 lbf), minFilling 18 N (4.0 lbf), min 15
22、 N (3.5 lbf), min 13 N (3.0 lbf), minSeam Slippage: 7.3(14-in. Separation) 222 N+ (50 lbf +) 133 N+ (30 lbf +) 111 N+ (25 lbf +)Skewness: 7.43 3 1 Twill, only 8%6 3 %(wtl)A2 3 1 Twill, only 4.5 6 3 %(wtl)AStretch (Warp Elongation) as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.5Width as agreed upon
23、 between purchaser and supplier 7.6Weight as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.7Dimensional Change, %Laundering 7.8Preshrunk (each direction) 4.0 % max,Flammability Class I 7.9AWTL = with the twill line.TABLE 2 Colorfastness RequirementsNon-Indigo Dyed Indigo Dyed and Sulfur Black Colors
24、SectionColorfastness:Ozone, two cycles, shade change 7.10.1Original (*A) Grade 4 min Grade 3.5 minAfter one laundry cycle (*A) Grade 4 min Grade 4 minLaundering: 7.10.2Shade change (*A) Grade 3.5, min Grade 2, minStain (*B) Grade 3, min Grade 2, minLight (*A) (20 AATCC FU)(xenon-arc): Grade 4, min G
25、rade 4, min 7.10.3Crocking (*C): 7.10.4Dry Grade 4, min Grade 3, minWet Grade 1.5, min Grade 1.5, minScale*AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change*BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining*CAATCC Chromatic TransferenceNOTE 1Class for color change or color transfer is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible t
26、o 1 for severe color change or color transfer. Theseproperties may not be relevant if the denim will be garment wet processed. Other properties may be negotiable between customer and supplier.D 6554/D6554M 092Method D 5034, using the constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT)tensile-testing machine with the sp
27、eed of the pulling clamp at300 6 10 mm. Constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile test-ing machinery may be used upon agreement between purchaserand supplier, recognizing that the two tensile testers do notnecessarily yield similar results.7.2 Tear StrengthDetermine the tear strength as directedin Te
28、st Method D 1424.7.3 Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistance to yarn slip-page as outlined in Test Method D 434.7.4 SkewnessDetermine skewness as directed in TestMethod D 3882; bow measurements also may be determined.7.5 Warp ElongationDetermine warp elongation as out-lined in Test Method D 3107.7.6 W
29、idthDetermine fabric width as outlined in TestMethod D 3774.7.7 WeightDetermine fabric weight as outlined in TestMethod D 3776.7.8 Dimensional ChangeDetermine dimensional changeas outlined in AATCC Test Method 135. Measurements shouldbe made after three laundry cycles.7.8.1 The wash conditions and d
30、rying procedures shall be asdirected in the applicable procedure in AATCC Test Method135.This procedure does not simulate garment finishing7.9 FlammabilityThe flammability test and requirementsshall meet or exceed the applicable Flammable Fabrics Actmandatory standards as specified in Part 1610 of t
31、he Flam-mable Fabrics Act Regulations. For additional information seeTest Method D 1230.7.10 Colorfastness to:7.10.1 OzoneDetermine the colorfastness to ozone asdirected in AATCC Test Method 109.7.10.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to laun-dering as directed in AATCC Test Method 61. The test
32、conditions shall be as agreed upon between the purchaser andsupplier.7.10.3 LightDetermining the colorfastness to light asdirected in AATCC Test Method 16 using Option E.7.10.4 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to Crockingas directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Test Method 116
33、 for prints, or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the supplier.8. Keywords8.1 apparel; denim; jeans; pants; specificationsASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are
34、 expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not r
35、evised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you
36、 may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D 6554/D6554M 093
