1、Designation: D7019 05 (Reapproved 2010)D7019 14Standard Performance Specification forBrassiere, Slip, Lingerie and Underwear Fabrics 1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D7019; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of
2、revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers fabrics used in brassieres underwear, slips, and lingerie.
3、1.2 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where each fabric direction is pertinent.1.3 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to the test methods described in this performance specification: Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the saf
4、ety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices, and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations priorto use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to Text
5、ilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)3D1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven FabricsD1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Method for Tearing Stre
6、ngth of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension TensileTesting Machine)D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile FabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Tes
7、tD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorf
8、astness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method124 Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleani
9、ng in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR 1610 - Flammable Fabrics Act RegulationsNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only the
10、 permanent part of the designation ofASTM,AATCC, or other test methods. The1 This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved June 1, 2010Feb. 1, 2014. Published September 2010Ma
11、rch 2014. Originally approved in 2005. Last previous edition approved in 20052010 asD7019D7019-05(2010).-05. DOI: 10.1520/D7019-05R10.10.1520/D7019-14.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Stan
12、dardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.3 The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.4 Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.5
13、Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possi
14、ble to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, Wes
15、t Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification refer to Terminologies D123 and D7022. For terms relating tochemical and colorfastness testing refer to specific AATCC t
16、est methods.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common usage are suitable for this specification.4. Significance and Use4.1 Fabrics intended for this end-use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1.4.2 It should be recognized that fabric can be produced utilizing an almost infinit
17、e number of combinations of constructionvariables (e.g., type of fibers, percentage of fibers, yarn twist, yarn number, warp and pick count, chemical and mechanicalfinishes).Additionally, fashion or aesthetics dictate that the ultimate consumer may find acceptable articles made from fabrics thatdo n
18、ot conform to all of the requirements in Table 1.4.2.1 Hence, no single performance specification can possibly apply to all the various fabrics that could be utilized for thisend-use.4.3 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of
19、the specifiedtest methods.5. Test Methods (see Note 1)5.1 Breaking Strength (woven fabrics only)Determine the dry-breaking strength as directed in the grab test procedure of TestMethod D5034 using a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile testing machine.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsCharacteri
20、stic Minimum Requirements SectionCharacteristic Minimum Requirements SectionSheer Non-SheerBreaking strength (CRE)A 67 N (15 lbf) 111 N (25 lbf) 5.1Tearing strength 4.4 N (1 lbf) 6.7 N (1.5 lbf) 5.2Resistance to Yarn slippage6 mm (14 in.) separation, 45 N (10 lbf) 67 N (15 lbf) 5.3Brassierres - 133
21、N (30 lbf)Yarn distortion 5.4at 4.4 N (1 lbf) loadSatins 2.5 mm (0.1 in.), maxAll other 1 mm (0.05 in.), maxBursting strength 133 N (30 lbf) 222 N (50 lbf) 5.5Dimensional Change - WovenLaundering 3 %, max 5.6.1Drycleaning 2 %, max 5.6.2Dimensional Change KnitLaundering 5 % max 5.6.1Drycleaning 5 % m
22、ax 5.6.2Colorfastness:LaunderingB 5.7.2Shade change Grade 4Staining Grade 3Drycleaning 5.7.3Shade change Grade 4Staining Grade 3Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach 5.7.4Shade Change Grade 4Non-Chlorine Bleach 5.7.4Shade Change Grade 4Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 5.7.1Shade change, original fabric Grade 4Shade ch
23、ange, after one cleaning Grade 4Crocking:B 5.7.5Dry Grade 4Wet Grade 3Perspiration:B 5.7.6Shade change Grade 4Staining Grade 3Light (10 AFU) (xenon-arc) Grade 4 5.7.7Fabric appearance SA 3.5 5.8Flammability Class I 5.9AThere is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength, tear
24、ing strength, bursting strength and lightfastness. These methods cannot be usedinterchangeably since there may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, Note 4, and Note 56).BSee Note 5.D7019 142NOTE 2If preferred a constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine may be use
25、d. There may be no overall correlation between the resultsobtained with the CRT machine and the CRE machine. Consequently, these two testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CREmethod, Test Method D5034, shall prevail.5.2 Tearing Resistance (woven fabrics only)Determine th
26、e tear resistance as directed in Test Method D1424.NOTE 3If preferred, use of the tensile testing machine is permitted as directed in Test Method D2261. There may be no overall correlation betweenthe results obtained with the Elmendorf machine (Test Method D1424) and with the tongue tear machines (T
27、est Method D2261). Consequently, these twotesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D1424 shall prevail.5.3 Resistance to Yarn Slippage (woven fabrics only)Determine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in Test MethodD434.5.4 Yarn Distortion (woven fabrics on
28、ly)Determine the yarn distortion as directed in Test Method D1336.5.5 Bursting Strength (knit fabrics only)Determine the bursting strength of knit fabrics as directed in Test Method D3786.NOTE 4If preferred, a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile testing machine may be used. Since there is no ov
29、erall correlation between the resultsobtained with the CRE machine equipped with a bursting attachment (Test Method D3787) and the diaphragm bursting tester Test Method D3786), thesetwo bursting testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the diaphragm bursting tester machine (Te
30、st Method D3786) shall prevail.5.6 Dimensional Change:5.6.1 LaunderingDetermine the dimensional change after laundering as directed in the applicable procedure in AATCCMethod 135.5.6.2 DrycleaningDetermine the dimensional change after drycleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 158.5.7 Colorfastnes
31、s:5.7.1 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to laundering as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC Method 61.NOTE 5It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by standard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that contain acombination of polyester and spandex,
32、 or their blends, may not show the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is, therefore,recommended that the staining results obtained by these tests not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.5.7.2 DrycleaningDetermine the colorfastness to drycleaning as directed in AA
33、TCC Test Method 132.NOTE 6Launderable fabrics are expected normally to be drycleaned, except where all or part of the fabric will not withstand drycleaning. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be
34、the case withpoly (vinyl chloride) fiber. If a fabric would be harmed by ALL methods of care except for drycleaning, it should be considered Dryclean only.5.7.3 BleachingWhen testing with bleach is indicated, test as directed in AATCC Test Method 172 for sodium hypochloritebleach, or AATCC Test Meth
35、od 188 for non-chlorine bleach, as appropriate.5.7.4 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness to burnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one laundering or onedrycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23. Washing or drycleaning conditions shall be as for dimensional change testing.5.7.5 Croc
36、kingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wet crocking as directed inAATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCCMethod 116 for prints or as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.supplier (see Note 5).5.7.6 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspiration as directed in AATCC Method 15.15 (
37、see Note 6).5.7.7 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution between the various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be used
38、interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the water-cooledxenon-arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.5.8 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric smoothness appearance (SA) as directed in AATCC Method 124 after theapplicable laundering or dry cleaning procedure.5.8.1 For fa
39、brics not intended for use in durable press garments, determine the smoothness appearance after pressing as specifiedin 10.2.5 of AATCC Test Method 135.5.9 FlammabilityThe flammability test and requirements shall meet or exceed the Flammable Fabrics Act mandatorystandards as specified in 16 CFR 1610
40、.D7019 1436. Keywords6.1 brassiere; lingerie; slip; underwearASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such p
41、atent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn.Your comments are invited ei
42、ther for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair
43、 hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this stan
44、dard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D7019 144