1、Designation: D7722 13Standard Terminology Relating toIndustrial Textile Stitches and Seams1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D7722; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A numb
2、er in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers stitches and seams related toindustrial textiles.1.2 Section 3, Terminology, is categorized into twosubsections, sp
3、ecific to the two areas of specialization underthis document.1.2.1 Section 3.1 Relating to Seams.1.2.2 Section 3.2 Relating to Stitches.1.3 For other terms relating to textiles refer to TerminologyD123.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1683/D1683M Test
4、Method for Failure in Sewn Seams ofWoven Apparel FabricsD1908 Test Method for Needle-Related Damage Due toSewing in Woven Fabrics3D5646 Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used inHome SewingD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams3. Terminology3.1 Definitions Relating to Seams:double-stitched se
5、am-finish, na finish for the raw edges ofa plain seam, in which another row of machine stitching ismade through both seam allowances placed together. D1683/D1683M, D6193grin, vin sewn seams, to stress a seam so that the individualstitches can be seen.needle damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial or c
6、ompleteyarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passingthrough a fabric during sewing.DISCUSSIONThis can also be referred to as needle cuts. D1908-89seam, na line where two or more fabrics are joined, usuallynear the edge. (See also sewn seam. See TerminologyD5646 for glued seam, stapled se
7、am, and thermally bondedseam.) D6193seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the distance from theedge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge. D1683/D1683M, D6193seam assembly, nthe composite structure obtained whenfabric(s) are joined by means of a seam. D1683/D1683M,D6193DISCUSSIO
8、NA seam assembly may be described in terms of fabricorientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch type, seam allowance,sewing thread tex number(s) and type(s) stitch density, stitch gage, androws of stitching. D1683/D1683Mseam damage, n in sewn fabrics, an adverse change in thephysical condition of
9、 one or more of the components in aseam which would reduce the seam acceptability such asyarn slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture. D6193seam efficiency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio, expressed as apercentage, of the breaking force required to rupture a sewnseam to that required to rupture the
10、fabric; seam strength tofabric strength. D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONFor some constructions, yarn strength and stitchtypecan contribute to a higher seam efficiency value. D6193seam engineering, nin sewn fabrics, the procedures used toselect a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type,seam
11、type, and stitch density to achieve the maximum sewnseam strength for a particular fabric type. D1683/D1683Mseam failure, n in sewn fabrics, that point at which anexternal force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) ruptures thefabric, (3) causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to thestitches, or (4)
12、 causes any combination of these unacceptableconditions. D1683/D1683MDISCUSSIONDespite the lack of rupture, excessive seam slippagewill either significantly reduce seam efficiency, or, result in an unsightlyappearance thus creating seam failure. D1683/D1683M1This terminology is under the jurisdictio
13、n ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved July 1, 2013. Published August 2013. Originallyapproved in 2011. Last previous edition approved in 2011 as D7722-11. DOI:10.1520/D7722-13.2For referenced ASTM standards
14、, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.
15、org.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1seam interaction, nin sewn fabrics, the net effect of therelationship between the combination of fabric, seam type,stitch type, and stitch density on seam efficiency.D1683/D1683Mseam
16、 slippage, nin sewn fabrics, a mode of failure inproduction seams; the displacement of the fabric yarnparallel and adjacent to the stitch line. D1683/D1683M,D6193DISCUSSIONShown as a transverse ratio of junction strength tofabric strength including the ratio of elongation of fabric to the ratio ofel
17、ongation at the junction. Seam slippage occurs when fabric yarnsparallel to the stitch line move away from the seam. It is caused by theyarns in the fabric pulling out from the stitch line, and manifests itselfas a gaping opening. Any movement of the warp and weft yarns awayfrom a seam line under tr
18、ansverse stresses, which exacerbate thepotential damage. (See yarn slippage.) D1683/D1683Mseam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric designationrelating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioningand rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam.D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONThe firs
19、t two letters of the designation show seam type;the third and subsequent letters specify a particular mating alignment;the number designation indicates the number of rows of stitches.D1683/D1683Msew, vto unite or fasten with stitches. D6193sewing thread, na flexible, small-diameter yarn or strand,us
20、ually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, or both,intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of materialor an object to a material. D6193sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at which two ormore planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined bysewing, usually near the edge. D16
21、83/D1683M, D6193sewn seam strength, nin sewn fabrics, the maximum resis-tance to rupture of the junction formed by stitching togethertwo or more planar structures. D1683/D1683Mslippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacement of one or morefabric yarns from their original position, so as to causedifferen
22、ces in alignment, spacing, or both. D1683/D1683Mstandard seam, na seam assembly which uses a specificseam type for a designated fabric having specific weight,density and construction. D1683/D1683Mstitch, nin sewn seams, the repeated unit formed by thesewing thread(s) in the production of seams.D1683
23、/D1683Mstitch density, nin sewn seams, the number of stitches perunit length in one row of stitching in the seam.D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONThis is usually expressed as stitches per inch (spi).D6193stitch gage, n in sewn fabrics, the perpendicular distancebetween adjacent parallel rows of stitchin
24、g. D1683/D1683M, D6193yarn slippage, na mode of failure of fabrics when sewnusing a standard seam. D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONThe displacement of one or more fabric yarns from theoriginal position(s) so as to cause differences in alignment and spacingof both yarns. D1683/D1683Myarn severance, na n
25、umerical value expressed on a percent-age basis from this test that is used as an index of the degreeof cutting of fabric yarns by the sewing machine needle inmaking sewn seams.3.2 Definitions Relating to Stitches:stitch, nin sewing, the configuration of the interlacing ofsewing thread in a specific
26、 repeated unit. (See also stitching,and stitch type.) D6193stitch type, na numerical designation relating to the essentialcharacteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s) in aspecified seam type. D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONStitch types are described in Practice D6193.stitching, na series of
27、stitches embodied in a meterial ormaterials of planar structure such as woven textile fabricsusually for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge, orboth. D61934. Keywords4.1 stitch; seamThis standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed ever
28、y five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible techni
29、cal committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocke
30、n, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D7722 132
