1、Designation: E1490 11Standard Guide forTwo Sensory Descriptive Analysis Approaches for SkinCreams and Lotions1This standard is issued under the fixed designation E1490; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of la
2、st revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 The objective of this guide is to provide procedures fortwo different descriptive analysis approaches that may be usedto
3、 qualitatively describe the sensory attributes of skin creamsand lotions and quantitatively measure their intensity, similari-ties, and differences over time. Descriptive analysis can beused to define the sensory experience of skin care products thatcan then be used to provide direction in product f
4、ormulation,competitive assessment, ingredient substitutions, researchguidance, and advertising claim substantiation.1.2 Guidelines are provided to assist the reader in determin-ing which approach best meets their research objectives, eitherthe (1) technical expert or (2) consumer behavior approach t
5、olanguage development and evaluation.1.3 Guidelines are provided for the selection and training ofassessors, defining sensory attributes, measuring intensities onrating scales, developing procedures for the manipulation ofthe product alone and the product on the skin, producthandling, and evaluation
6、 of skin condition before testing.1.4 UnitsThe values stated in inch-pound units are to beregarded as the standard. The values given in parentheses aremathematical conversions to SI units that are provided forinformation only and are not considered standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to addr
7、ess all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2E253 Terminolo
8、gy Relating to Sensory Evaluation of Ma-terials and ProductsMNL 13 Manual on Descriptive Analysis Testing for Sen-sory EvaluationMNL 26 Sensory Testing Methods: Second Edition3. Terminology3.1 Terms used in this guide are in accordance with Termi-nology E253.3.2 Definitions:3.2.1 application, nproce
9、ss of applying the skin careproduct.3.2.2 delivery, nstage during which the product is dis-charged onto the finger(s) or skin.3.2.3 panel leader/moderator, nperson who is responsiblefor conducting descriptive panels, protocols, and panel main-tenance.3.2.4 pick-up, nstage during which the product is
10、 manipu-lated between the fingers, as it might be after the product isdispensed onto the finger or lifted from a jar.3.2.5 reference anchors, nproducts that are used to defineintensities of a specific attribute.3.2.6 rub-out, nstage during which the product is rubbedonto the skin.4. Summary of Guide
11、4.1 OverviewThis guide describes two approaches to thedescriptive analysis of skin care products; technical expert andconsumer behavior approaches. The appropriate approachesfor identifying, selecting, and training of assessors to evaluatethe intensity and duration of sensory characteristics for ski
12、ncare products are discussed. See Table 1.4.1.1 Technical Expert ApproachThe technical expert ap-proach for descriptive analysis is based in the training ofassessors on lexicon(s) and intensity references to create apanel that performs as a calibrated human instrument. Thismethod uses a trained pane
13、l using descriptors that focus onappearance and tactile qualities of products. Additionally,evaluation of product fragrance can be performed using eitherthe same panel or a separate panel. In both cases, the panelperforming the evaluations is trained using fragrance descrip-tors and references for f
14、ragrance evaluation. Participants inthese panels have been screened to exclude preexisting condi-tions or health issues (for tactile evaluations to excludecandidates with eczema, allergies, and hypersensitivity; for1This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee E18 on SensoryEvaluation and
15、is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee E18.07 on PersonalCare and Household Evaluation.Current edition approved Sept. 1, 2011. Published March 2012. Originallyapproved in 1992. Last previous edition approved in 2003 as E1490 03. DOI:10.1520/E1490-11.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the AS
16、TM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Unit
17、ed States.TABLE 1 Overview of Technical Expert and Consumer Behavior ApproachesTechnical Expert Approach Consumer Behavior ApproachTarget panel size Ten to fifteen assessors Twelve to fifteen assessorsPre-recruiting and screening Up to 60 candidates are recruited from the local community orinternal
18、company resources, screened and selected based onsensory acuity, ability to articulate, availability and long terminterest (see Figs. 1-16).Approximately 30 candidates who are likers and users of theproduct category are recruited, screened, and selected for theirsensory acuity and articulation abili
19、ty, in addition to availability.Sensory acuity screening Initial screening will include as many as 10 initial tests and apersonal interview (see Figs. 1-16).Up to 30 trials; repeated measurement; discrimination method,tests represent differences expected in product set andcategory of interest.Panel
20、leader/Panel moderator Qualified panel leader serves as trainer and teaches theattributes, reviews the scales and provides continuous trainingfor the panel.A trained moderator is the group discussion facilitator. Themoderator provides the schedule of activities and works withthe panel to help them d
21、evelop the common vocabulary todescribe the products of interest.Panel training Three steps:Initial10 to 20 hours of training in a controlled sensoryenvironment providing an introduction to scaling and sensoryevaluation techniques.Secondary50 to 90 hours practice.FinalValidation on skills for confir
22、mation of performance andreadiness for data collection.8 to 12 hours of group discussions; iterative process; eachsession builds on previous sessions to develop acomprehensive language; some activities may be in home orextended use.After initial training and pilot testing, remedial training sessions
23、may be scheduled.Product application Assessors are presented with standardized lexicon andreferences for attribute understanding (see Tables 2-5). Forskinfeel, assessors test sites are uniform and controlled torestrict variability and encourage panel consistency.Evaluation procedures are typical for
24、 the category of interest;face lotions and creams will be placed on the face, handlotions on the hands, body lotions applied more broadly, andso forth. Procedures follow intended consumer usage, mosttypical for product of interest.Sensory modalities Lexicons are used to address the client modalities
25、 of interest,focusing on appearance and texture or aroma, or both, of theproducts and test sites before, during, and post-usage.Language is developed to capture all sensory modalities thatare part of the consumer experience including visual,fragrance, and skinfeel, before, during, and after usage.Te
26、chnique Standardized protocols are provided for the evaluation ofproducts.Individual procedures are developed by the panel and thenstandardized. Evaluation procedures are modeled after typicalconsumer usage behavior for that category.Language development Standardized lexicons are used as a core with
27、supplementation if needed to address objectives; typical tohave 20+ attributes with multiple evaluations of some attributesacross the product use experience.Comprehensive language, not unusual to have 30 to 40 ormore sensory attributes to fully describe perceptions before,during, and after usage.Dat
28、a collection Two replications are typical for skin feel evaluations; fragranceevaluation can be performed using consensus evaluation orwith replication.A minimum of three replications are recommended.Data analysis Analysis of Variance Analysis of VariancePanel performance measures Inclusive of data
29、review is assessment of overall panel andindividual panelist performance. Statistical analysis allowsongoing monitoring of panel and panelist accuracy (when ablind control is included in the test set), ability to discriminateand consistency/ability to replicate judgments.This method provides for sta
30、tistical analysis of panelperformance including individual assessor performance byattribute, replication, and overall differences observed relativeto the panel as a whole. The analysis then focuses onperceived product differences.Reporting Charts, histograms, spider and other plots Spider or radar p
31、lots, charts, and means tablesUsage and application This approach provides research and product development,operations, quality assurance and marketing personnel withdocumentation of the products sensory properties. Studyoutput can be used alone or in conjunction with affectiveconsumer methods.When
32、used alone, data provides product and attributeunderstanding for single or multiple products and can bedirectly compared within and across studies (shelf life,development, market comparisons, and competitive categoryassessment).When used in conjunction with affective responses,correlations and multi
33、variate statistics are used to interpret andextrapolate consumer affective responses and describe therelationship between consumer liking, language, behaviorand/or understanding and product attributes. Attributes thatinfluence consumer acceptance of products can be identifiedand sensory characterist
34、ics of ideal products determined.This approach can be used for a wide variety of purposes,including understanding words consumers use to differentiateproducts, mapping product similarities and differences,ingredient substitution, new product development, competitiveassessments, and advertising claim
35、 substantiation, amongother uses.When correlated with consumer affective measures, the datacan be used to determine key drivers that impact consumerchoice behavior and preference segmentation. Developers canuse the information to provide products that target specificconsumer benefits and needs, and
36、marketing can use thelanguage and sensory properties to help communicate saidbenefits.E1490 112fragrance evaluations to exclude candidates with specificanosmias, conditions affecting the sense of smell, allergies, orhypersensitivities to fragrances). The screening process dis-qualifies assessors wit
37、h personal habits that would impair orprevent their ability to evaluate a product (for example,activities that could lead to heavy callusing of the fingertips).Screened and selected assessors receive 70 to 100 h of trainingper sensory modality using intensity references. Intensityreference scales in
38、clude a wide assortment of products withina category. Products are tested at different stages includingbefore application; during application on specific predeter-mined sites within specific measured areas; and after applica-tion. The intensity of attributes is measured using a predeter-mined scale
39、(for example, 10, 15, 100 point scales, and soforth). Guidelines (protocols) are provided for all facets ofevaluation and include the manipulation of the product aloneand on the area on which it is to be tested. Continuousrepetition of exposure to scales and evaluation techniquesprovides understandi
40、ng of the attributes, scaling for intensities,and use of protocols. Assessor performance is tested throughvalidation exercises before participating in any formal studies.Once the panel is validated, it is ready to evaluate products.The data gathered are analyzed statistically, which allows fordiffer
41、entiation of products both qualitatively (presence ofsensory features in some products and not others) and quanti-tatively (differentiation in level or intensity of attributes). Datagathered provide specific guidelines for those seeking toidentify sensory properties perceived in a single product or
42、ina given set of products. The panel is monitored for performanceand periodic training and recalibration occur as necessary.Assessors are often trained to evaluate multiple product types.4.1.2 Consumer Behavior ApproachThe consumer behav-ior approach uses the panel as the instrument and acknowl-edge
43、s that there are inherent differences in perception based onbehavioral and genetic differences at the receptor level. Thisapproach uses consumers (assessors) who are current users andlikers of the product category of interest. Selected assessors arescreened for their sensory acuity and articulation
44、ability, alongwith their willingness to participate on a panel. Twelve of themost sensitive assessors are selected for the descriptive analy-sis panel. Under the guidance of a qualified panel moderator,selected assessors describe their sensory perceptions of theproduct(s) of interest using a common
45、everyday descriptivelanguage. Qualitative references are used as necessary to assistwith concept alignment and clarification of definitions ofterms. Products are evaluated following typical usage behaviorexpected for that product, for example, hand lotions would beapplied to the hands, body lotions
46、applied more broadly, facecreams on the face, and so forth. The protocols and evaluationprocedures are developed by the panel in conjunction with thequalified panel moderator. Once a common language is agreedupon by the panel as a group, assessors rate their individualperceptions of each product in
47、the array on an unstructured 6in. (15 cm) graphic rating scale, one at a time, using at leastthree repeated measures (replications). The data are analyzedstatistically to determine reliability and validity of the results.The analysis includes individual assessor performance, perfor-mance as a group,
48、 and analyses to determine similarities anddifferences among products for each sensory attribute (before,during, and after usage). This approach requires about fourweeks from start to finish to recruit, screen, train, and evaluatean array of products. Subsequent panel and language develop-ment time
49、can be reduced once the evaluation techniques areclearly understood and an initial language has been developed.5. Significance and Use5.1 The procedures recommended in this guide can be usedto assess the sensory characteristics before, during, and afterusage of skin care products.5.2 This guide is applicable to product categories thatinclude skin lotions and creams, facial moisturizers, handlotions and creams, anti-aging lotions and creams, suntanlotions, personal repellents, and other skin care products.5.3 Procedures of the type described herein may be used tocommun
