1、Designation: E 2082 06Standard Guide forDescriptive Analysis of Shampoo Performance1This standard is issued under the fixed designation E 2082; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in
2、parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 The objective of this guide is to provide procedureswhich may be used in the design, execution, and analysis ofstudies to quantitatively assess
3、the objective sensory attributesof shampoos. This is one of many appropriate techniques usedin the hair-care industry. These attributes can then be used todefine performance of shampoos and to provide direction inproduct formulation, research guidance testing, and claimsubstantiation. This guide inc
4、ludes the sensory propertiesinvolved in dispensing a product, as well as the attributespertinent to shampooing tresses, half and whole heads. Al-though this guide is specific to shampoos, the proceduresshould be applicable to most hair-care products.1.2 Guidelines are provided for the definition of
5、terminol-ogy, procedures for manipulation of products, identification/selection of hair type, and assessor training. References forrating scales are not provided in this guide. The user should beaware that some sensory practices may require the use ofattribute references (anchors) when training the
6、assessors.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2E 253 Terminology Relating to Sensory Evaluation of Ma-terials and Products2.2 ASTM Publications:3ASTM Manual 13 Descriptive Analysis Testing for SensoryEvaluationASTM Manual 26 Sensory Testing Methods: Second Edi-tionASTM Manual 30 Relating Consu
7、mer, Descriptive, andLaboratory Data to Better Understand Consumer Re-sponsesASTM STP 758 Guidelines for the Selection and Trainingof Sensory Panel Members2.3 Code of Federal Regulations:421 CFR 50.25 Protection of Human SubjectsElements ofInformed Consent3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsDefinitions of
8、terms other than those givenas follows appear in Terminology E 253.3.2 Definitions:3.2.1 cosmetologista licensed, trained professional whohas been certified by state or government agencies to applyhair-care products to human heads. These individuals may bealternately described as beauticians, stylis
9、ts, hairdressers, orcosmetologists.3.2.2 subjectsthose individuals recruited to participate ina study for the quality or condition of their hair, to serve assample carriers.3.2.3 trained panela group of assessors who have beenformally trained to evaluate the visual and tactile properties ofshampoo o
10、r hair, using a standard descriptive analysis methodwhich quantifies attributes on a rating scale over a set timeperiod. The number may vary depending on the complexity ofthe test and the skill of the assessor.4. Equipment4.1 The following equipment may be used during theevaluation process:4.1.1 Gen
11、eral:4.1.1.1 Light SourceA consistent light source is recom-mended for use during evaluation of shine or luster. It isimportant to control the amount of light as well as the angleand distance from the hair.4.1.1.2 Water SourceTemperature and hardness should beconsistent. If controlled temperature si
12、nks are used, theyshould all have the same, consistent flow rate.4.1.1.3 Blow DryerSpecifications should be documented(that is, wattage, voltage, power level, air velocity, andtemperature).4.1.1.4 Syringes/Pipettes, Petri Dishes.1This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee E18 on SensoryE
13、valuation and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee E18.07 on PersonalCare and Household Evaluation.Current edition approved April 1, 2006. Published April 2006. Originallyapproved in 2000. Last previous edition approved in 2000 as E 2082 00.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM webs
14、ite, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from ASTM International Headquarters, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, POBox C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-
15、29594Available from U.S. Government Printing Office Superintendent of Documents,732 N. Capitol St., NW, Mail Stop: SDE, Washington, DC 20401.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4.1.1.5 Towels (cloth or paper, or both).4.1
16、.1.6 CombsIt is recommended that all combs be iden-tical in material and construction (that is, tooth length, thick-ness, and distance between teeth). They should be appropri-ately cleaned before each use. For evaluations on subjectheads, combs must be sanitized properly prior to use with eachtest s
17、ubject.4.1.1.7 Thermometer.4.1.1.8 Hygrometer.4.1.2 Additional Equipment for Evaluation on Tresses:4.1.2.1 Hair Tresses (also commonly referred to asswatches) (see Section 8 for preparation procedure).4.1.3 Additional Equipment for Evaluation on Subjects(Salon Setting):4.1.3.1 All-Purpose Styling Ch
18、air.4.1.3.2 Capes.4.1.3.3 Wet/Dry Sanitizers.5. Summary of Guide5.1 This guide provides guidelines for the identification,selection, and training of assessors, using a common proce-dure, so they may effectively evaluate the sensory attributes ofshampoos and the effects of their use on hair. This gui
19、dedescribes the evaluation using hair tresses and subjects (halfand whole heads).5.2 During tress evaluation, a panel of trained assessorstreats hair swatches with the shampoo products, and evaluatethe appearance, product pick-up, application, foaming, and wethair and dry hair attributes of the sham
20、poo.5.3 Evaluations using live subjects are typically performedin a salon-type setting. In some cases, the services of a licensedcosmetologist may be required by state or local law. Licensedcosmetologists may bring an expanded frame of reference andmay be trained as descriptive assessors. Many of th
21、e attributesevaluated on subject heads are similar to those evaluated ontresses.5.4 A comparative overview highlighting the characteristicsof shampoo evaluation using tresses and using live subjects isprovided in the following chart:Comparative Overview of Shampoo Testing Using Trained EvaluatorsTre
22、sses versus SubjectsTress Subject: Half or Whole HeadHighly Controlled Testing: Less Controlled:Controlled procedure, limitedvariabilityUniform hair samples (typicallycommercially blended 9virgin9 hair)Often may purchase/create desired/target hair typesControlled procedure but highlyvariable hair/sc
23、alp types and condi-tions (length, diameter, oiliness, dirti-ness, damage, etc.)In special cases, may screen/targetspecific hair typesArtificial: Less Artificial:Lack scalp/sebum involvement,packing/scalp orientation effects,single hair type representedScalp/sebum involvement, packing/whole-head eff
24、ects, usually incorpo-rates a range of hair types/conditionsInitial Investment: Initial Investment:Lower capital requirements perstationControlled environment should in-clude controlled lighting, water flow,and individual assessor stationsSeveral approaches available, vary-ing in sophistication and
25、expenseDepending on testing volume andscheduling, may require a greatertotal number of stationsHigher capital requirements perstationRequires suitable salon-stylefacilities/stations with controlledlighting, water flow, etc.May require fewer total stationsComparative Overview of Shampoo Testing Using
26、 Trained EvaluatorsTresses versus SubjectsTress Subject: Half or Whole HeadInitial Training and Maintenance: Initial Training and Maintenance:Variable, but probably grosslysimilar for tress and subject testingVariable, but probably grossly simi-lar for tress and subject testingLower Cost for Testing
27、: Higher Cost for Testing:Assessor fees, consumables (sy-ringes, etc.)Hair reuseable over extendedperiodsIn addition to assessors fees andconsumables; there are subject fees,recruiting costsMay require services of a licensedcosmetologist for some types oftestingSample Turn Around: Sample Turn Around
28、:Rapid testing, high throughput, as-sessors available as needed littleto no lead timeLess rapid testing, assessors avail-able, but may require additional leadtime for subject recruitingEvaluations/Evaluators: Evaluations/Evaluators:Typically requires fewer total evalu-ations but more (minimum of 7 t
29、o 10)evaluators, usually 2 or more reps/productRequires more total evaluations(subjects), but may require fewertrained assessors (see 10.1)Simultaneous descriptive and sub-ject self-assessment possible6. Significance and Use6.1 The methods outlined in this guide can be used toqualitatively and quant
30、itatively describe the performance andsensory characteristics of shampoos.6.2 The methods described in this guide may be used forproduct formulation and research guidance as well as forquality control.6.3 These methods may be used by individuals who famil-iarize themselves with these procedures and
31、who have previousexperience with sensory evaluation.6.4 Variables that may affect results include, but are notlimited to, water conditions (for example, hardness), hair type,and hair condition. These variables should be controlled oraccounted for in the experimental design.6.5 These are suggested pr
32、ocedures and are not intended toexclude alternate methods, which may effectively provide thesame or similar results.7. Trained Panel Selection and Descriptive Training7.1 The objective is to select and train assessors to evaluatethe visual and tactile properties of shampoos on hair tressesusing a de
33、scriptive analysis method. The selection processshould include the principles embodied inASTM STP758. Thetask of the assessor is to describe product and hair attributes byrating the perceived quantity and quality of specified attributes.7.2 Trained Panel Selection:7.2.1 Assessors may be recruited fr
34、om within the company,or from the local community. The use of licensed cosmetolo-gists as trained assessors adds an additional qualification to thecommunity recruit.7.2.2 The choice to use internal employees allows a com-pany to have assessors on site and control proprietary infor-mation. It may, ho
35、wever, create potential resource and sched-uling conflicts, since panel evaluation will not be theemployees primary job focus.7.2.3 The use of local community residents allows thecompany to schedule more panel time per week and may lowerthe risk of losing assessors. A large pool of potential assesso
36、rsis usually available.E20820627.2.3.1 A screening questionnaire is recommended to deter-mine availability, interest, general knowledge of tactile prop-erties, ability to use descriptive words, and ability to use ratingscales. Some questions on the screening questionnaire relate toprevious and curre
37、nt employment. These questions may con-flict with individual company policy (see Table 1).7.2.4 With specific training, licensed cosmetologists mayrepresent a special type of descriptively trained assessor. Insome states, licensing is required to apply certain hair-careproducts to live models (subje
38、cts). Information concerning thelegal requirements for licensing professional cosmetologistsmay be obtained through the states Board of Beauty Culture.7.2.5 Licensed cosmetologists typically will require highercompensation than non-licensed candidates. Since licensedcosmetologists are experienced, t
39、hey may require a shortertraining period. They may also have some preconceived biases.7.2.6 When cosmetologists are trained as descriptive evalu-ators, the difference between their traditional role and their roleas a trained descriptive evaluator should be carefully ex-plained.7.3 Recruitment and Sc
40、reening:7.3.1 A large group of candidates may be recruited from thelocal community or from within the company (50 to 70recommended, with necessarily fewer if licensed cosmetolo-gists are to be used) by contacting community groups, placingnewspaper adds, interoffice memos, or notices posted onbulleti
41、n boards.7.3.2 Prior to completing a screening questionnaire, the timecommitment for training (orientation and practice sessions),potential duration of the panel, panel objectives, and assessorcommitment should be discussed with each candidate. Inaddition, in the case of a cosmetologist assessor, th
42、e differencesbetween conduct and responsibilities as a trained evaluator andthose of a cosmetologist should be emphasized.7.3.3 A screening questionnaire is recommended (refer to7.2.3.1).7.3.4 Select 15 to 20 assessors. This number may varydepending on the complexity of the test and the skill of the
43、assessors. The following criteria may be used as a guideline.Other approaches are described in ASTM Manual 13 andASTM STP 758.7.3.4.1 Screening Questionnaire:(1) Availability for the complete orientation and 80100 %of the training practice sessions.(2) No health-related problems, such as, skin irrit
44、ations,central nervous system disorders, or medications which mightinterfere with the central nervous system or reduce skin andmuscle activity.(3) Correct and comprehensive descriptive answers to75 % or more of the open-ended tactile questions in thescreening questionnaire.(4) Correct rating of 80 %
45、 or more of the scaling exercisesin the screening questionnaire (see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2).7.3.4.2 InterviewEach candidate should be interviewedby the panel administrator or trainer to determine attitude,interest, and ability to learn and work in a group situation. Thecandidate should demonstrate good
46、verbal skills, a high interestin descriptive dynamics, and a cooperative yet confidentpersonality (see Table 2).7.4 Trained Panel Orientation/Training:7.4.1 The panel trainer needs to orient assessors first to thegeneral concepts, such as, the definition, components, andapplication of descriptive an
47、alysis testing. This will takeapproximately two hours.7.4.2 Assessors are introduced to the need for strictlycontrolled sample application procedures and for the carefuldefinition of each sensory attribute. This will take approxi-mately two hours.7.4.3 A discussion and demonstration of each attribut
48、e isconducted at each stage of the evaluation. This establishes theoverall structure of the descriptive analysis of hair-care prop-erties. Assessors are encouraged to discuss each term, itsdefinition, the evaluation procedure(s), and the correspondingrating scale after they are demonstrated by the p
49、anel trainer.The time involved completing this step depends on the numberof attributes selected and the length of discussions. See Section9 for suggested procedures and attributes.7.4.4 For each attribute, the procedure, definition, and scaleare discussed again in greater depth. Each is demonstratedagain with three references when possible. References shouldrepresent the full intensity range from none to high. The timeinvolved completing this step will again depend on the numberof attributes selected.7.4.5 The attributes (characteristics) and procedures identi-fied in
