1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 1903:1981 Glossary of Terms used by the clothing industry UDC 001.4:687BS1903:1981 This British Standard, having been prepared under the direction of the Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authority of the Executive Board and comes into effect on 30 October 198
2、1 BSI 10-1999 First published October 1952 First revision October 1981 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference CLT/5 Draft for comment 80/35477 DC ISBN 0 580 12319 7 Cooperating organizations The Clothing Standards Committee, under whose direction this B
3、ritishStandard was prepared, consists of representatives from the following: British Apparel Manufacturers Association Ltd* British Footwear Manufacturers Federation British Man-made Fibres Federation* British Multiple Retailers Association* British Railways Board British Textile Employers Associati
4、on Clothing and Footwear Institute* Clothing Manufacturers Federation of Great Britain Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI* Consumers Association Department of Industry, Chemicals and Textiles Drapers Chamber of Trade Independent Footwear Retailers Association Industrial Safety (Protective
5、Equipment) Manufacturers Association Institute of Purchasing and Supply Instock Footwear Suppliers Association Knitting Industries Federation Ltd* Mail Order Traders Association of Great Britain* Manchester Chamber of Commerce Testing House and Laboratories* Ministry of Defence* Multiple Shoe Retail
6、ers Association National Childrens Wear Association Shoe and Allied Trades Research Association Textile and Clothing Contractors Association Textile Research Council* The organizations marked with an asterisk in the above list, together with the following, were directly represented on the Technical
7、Committee entrusted with the preparation of this British Standard: British Interlining Manufacturers Association British Leather Manufacturers Research Association International Wool Secretariat Textile Institute Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS1903:1981 BSI 10-1
8、999 i Contents Page Cooperating organizations Inside front cover Foreword ii 0.1 Scope 1 0.2 References 1 Section 1. General terms 1 Section 2. Materials 3 Section 3. Garments and garment parts 4 Section 4. Making up operations 7 Section 5. Stitches 10 Section 6. Seams and pleats 11 Section 7. Sewin
9、g machine parts 12 Section 8. Sewing machine feed mechanisms 13 Section 9. Equipment other than sewing machines 14 Alphabetical index 16 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS1903:1981 ii BSI 10-1999 Foreword This glossary has been prepared under the direction of the Clothing Standards Committ
10、ee. The first edition of this standard, published in 1952, and which is now withdrawn, contained a glossary of technical terms used in the then current British Standards for womens and childrens clothing. When the present revision was undertaken it was agreed that a more comprehensive glossary was n
11、eeded. Terms for inclusion were extracted and considered from a number of sources. The most notable source was the Clothing and Footwear Institutes publication “Clothing terms and definitions” which was used with the full cooperation of the Institute. Other sources were recently published British St
12、andard specifications for clothing, discussions within BSI committees and discussions within the International Organization for Standardization, this last being the prime source for much of the sewing machine terminology. All definitions have been developed through the usual consultative procedures
13、of BSI. The glossary has been divided into nine sections and within each section the terms are, as far as possible, in alphabetical order. An index of all terms has been provided for ease of reference. NOTETerms and their synonyms are printed in bold type. Where reference to another term, also defin
14、ed in the glossary, is necessary in the text that term is italicized and its number quoted. However, because of the repetition of many of the defined terms they have not been italicized every time they occur. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract.
15、Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages1 to 18, an inside back cover an
16、d a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS1903:1981 BSI 10-1999 1 0.1 Scope This British Standard glossary lists terms and definitions as used by the clothing
17、 industry. NOTEFurther details of fabric descriptions may be found in BS3257, of stitches and seams in BS3870 and of sewing machine parts in BS6131 1) . 0.2 References The titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. Section 1. General terms 1) In cour
18、se of preparation. No. Term Definition 101 allowance body tolerance The extra dimensions allowed on garment measurements over body measurement (see also seam allowance, 132). 102 appliqu A cutout design or shape attached to the face of a material for ornamentation, frequently of a different type and
19、/or shade of material. 103 back rise The distance on a garment from the crotch to the centre back of the waistline. 104 balance The relation of one section of a garment to another, in harmony with the natural attitude of the figure, especially that of back and front lengths. 105 balance marks Notche
20、s or threads in garment parts, which help to preserve the balance of the garment by serving as guides during assembly. They are generally put at side seams, in the scye, shoulder seams, hind arm and forearm seams and elsewhere as necessary. 106 bespoke Clothes made to the order of an individual. 107
21、 bias Direction at an angle to warp and weft. True bias is at an angle of 45 to both warp and weft. Other usage includes bias cutting and cutting on the bias which is also known as cutting on the cross. 108 bight The distance between the stitching line and the adjacent edge of the material (see also
22、 seam allowance, 132). 109 bluff edges bluffed edges Edges finished without outside stitching (see also bluffing, 406). 110 break The point where the lapel starts to roll over on a coat, usually at the top buttonhole. 111 button stand buttonhole stand The distance from the finished edge of the garme
23、nt to the centre of the button. 112 clem A very small dart which is sewn and not cut. 113 dart A wedge or diamond shape removed from the surface of a garment part by stitching or by cutting and stitching to contribute to the shape of the garment. 114 double breasted (D.B.) A coat or other garment wi
24、th wrap over fronts having buttons and buttonholes on each forepart. 115 draft a) A constructed plan of a garment. b) The application of body or garment measurements to a flat plane. 116 drape The way the material in a garment hangs when worn. 117 dress a) Clothing, particularly outerwear. b) A type
25、 of adjustment made to one side of trousers to improve fit.BS1903:1981 2 BSI 10-1999 No. Term Definition 118 drop loop A method of lowering the belt loop below the top of the trouser waistband (usually 1 cm to 2 cm) or dress waist. This method prevents the belt from riding above the waist. 119 eye o
26、f buttonhole The rounded end of a buttonhole into which the shank or neck of the button will pull when the garment is fastened. 120 fashioned Of knitted garments. A description of a knitted garment in which shaping by narrowing or widening has been achieved on the knitting machine. 121 fish A dart c
27、ut at the waist of a garment to give a closer fit. 122 flyline The line of the fly fastening from the centre of the fork to the top of the waistband on a pair of trousers. 123 fork quantity The allowance of material in bifurcated garments provided for the thickness through the trunk from front to ba
28、ck at the crotch. 124 front rise The distance from the crotch to the centre front of the waistline. 125 fullness The additional amount of one of the materials joined at a seam which is allowed in order to create the desired shape in a part of a finished garment, e.g. a sleeve head (see also easing-i
29、n, 419). 126 grain The direction of the warp of a fabric. Hence cutting straight grain means cutting with the grain; cross grain means across the grain. 127 impression Of pressing. Surface unevenness after pressing, usually around areas of extra thickness, such as pockets and seams. 128 inlay An ext
30、ra seam allowance inside the garment for letting out if required or for strength at a given position. 129 model a) The original sample garment. b) The original garment made up from a design. 130 needle damage Damage caused to material by the needle during sewing. 131 openness The provision for leg s
31、tance in the angle of the leg seams. 132 seam allowance seam margin A pre-determined amount of material between the edge of component parts of the garment and the seam line. 133 Unallocated 134 sem grin grinning Gaping of a seam under stress usually due to inadequate thread tension at sewing. 135 se
32、am pucker pucker Generally unwanted material waviness along the line of stitching. 136 seam slippage The movement of warp and weft threads away from a seam line under transverse stress. 137 single breasted A style of coat or other garment with minimum overlap and a centre front fastening. 138 suppre
33、ssion shape The creation of shape by removal of material from the surface area of the garment. 139 swelled edges An effect achieved by a row of stitching sewn at a specific and regular distance from the finished edge of a garment. 140 flagging The rising and falling of material caused by the needle
34、movement on the sewing machine.BS1903:1981 BSI 10-1999 3 Section 2. Materials No. Term Definition 201 bonded-fibre fabric A non-woven fabric consisting of one or more webs or masses of fibres, held together with a bonding material, frequently used for interlinings. 202 cloth The principal or outside
35、 fabric of a garment. NOTEThis is the normal usage in the tailoring trade although any fabric may be described as a cloth. 203 core spun thread A thread made from yarns which are a combination of continuous filaments, providing the core, and staple fibres, providing the sheath. 204 face side The sid
36、e of a material intended to be shown whilst in wear. 205 faced cloths Cloths which have a different surface texture, pile or nap on front and back. 206 fusible interlining An interlining which has been treated so that it adheres to other materials by the application of heat and pressure. 207 gimp A
37、special thread used to support and raise the buttonhole stitching. 208 ligne A standard measure, equal to 0.635 mm (i.e. 1/40 in) by which buttons and ribbons are measured. 209 monofilament thread A thread comprising one continuous filament. 210 multifilament thread A thread comprising a number of i
38、ndividual, continuous filaments. 211 nap A fibrous surface produced on a fabric or felt in which part of the fibre is raised from the basic structure. Such surfaces often show directional effects. 212 non-woven fabric A manufactured laminar structure consisting of fibres and/or filaments held togeth
39、er by mechanical, chemical or physical means or by a combination of these. The term does not include paper or fabrics which are woven, knitted, tufted, stitch-bonded by a process incorporating yarns or felted by a process incorporating wet milling. 213 pad Any form of wadding, felt, foam or rubber i
40、nserted into a garment for the purpose of shape or fit. 214 piping a) A strip of material with or without a filling, applied folded, normally to the edge of a garment. b) A narrow fabric having a cord on one edge. c) The operation of applying piping. 215 ply Of fabric. A single thickness of material
41、 in a lay or seam. The number of plies in an assembly is the number of material thicknesses. Of thread. An individual yarn in a thread. The number of plies in a thread is the number of yarns which are twisted together to form the thread. 216 selvedge The longitudinal edges of a textile fabric, which
42、 are formed during manufacture in such a way that the component threads are interlaced to prevent them from unravelling or fraying. 217 sewing thread A folded yarn made by twisting together two or more single yarns, or a multifilament yarn, or a monofilament yarn suitable for sewing. 218 slide faste
43、ner zipfastener A fastening device consisting of two flexible, interlocking stringers (with or without end stops) and a slider so arranged that by moving the slider along the stringers in one direction, an opening is formed and by moving it in the other, the opening is closed. The end which is adjac
44、ent to the slider when the device is fully opened is designated the bottom end. The other end is designated the top end. NOTEDetails of slide fastener types are given in BS 3084.BS1903:1981 4 BSI 10-1999 Section 3. Garments and garment parts NOTEDefinitions are given only for certain garment types w
45、hich appear in British Standards. No. Term Definition 219 trimmings Garment components other than the main material(s) and sewing threads. 220 wadding A loose, cohering mass of fibre, usually in the form of a sheet or roll used as padding in the making up of garments. 301 anorak A lined and hooded h
46、ip length jacket designed to give a degree of protection from inclement weather. 302 back strap A strap across the back of a garment usually fitted with a buckle, or other method of adjustable fastening, and used to adjust the fit of the garment, within limits, to the wearers requirements. 303 backi
47、ng A strip of material placed on the under side of part of a garment to act as a reinforcement. 304 bearers Of trousers. Sections fastened to the side seams to take the weight of the trousers when the fronts are opened. Bearers for whole fall trousers contain the pockets. 305 belt loop A loop of mat
48、erial or thread which is sewn into the waist of a garment to receive a belt. 306 bodice The section of a womans garment covering the body from neck to waist. 307 bridle A narrow strip of material which is attached to the interlining along the roll of the lapel to hold and control it. 308 buggy A lin
49、ing from the neck down across the back of an otherwise unlined coat. 309 button A knob or disc which is attached to garments as a means of fastening or ornamentation. (For button sizes see ligne, 208.) 310 buttonhole The hole through which a button is passed to hold the garment in the correct position. 311 canvas A made-up interlining for a garment. 312 catch An underlap of material providing a backing to an opening to take buttons or a zip tape for fastening, e.g. fly-catch, button-catch. 313 channel A narrow passage formed between plies of material in a garment
