1、BRITISH STANDARD BS2861:1984 ISO7211-1: 1984 Methods for Presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting ISO title: Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part1: Methods for the presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting U
2、DC677.017.35:677.074BS2861:1984 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Fibres, Yarns, Fabrics and Production StandardsCommittee, was published under the authority ofthe Board of BSI and comes intoeffect on 28 September1984 BSI08-1999 First published July1957 First revi
3、sion July1972 Second revision September1984 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference FBM/11 Draft for comment82/37513DC ISBN 0 580 14015 6 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by the Fibre
4、s, Yarns, Fabrics and Production Standards Committee (FBM/-) to Technical Committee FBM/11 upon which the following bodies were represented: British Clothing Industry Association British Retailers Association British Textile Employers Association Central Council of the Irish Linen Industry Confedera
5、tion of British Wool Textiles Limited Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI Department of Trade and Industry (Chemicals, Textiles, Paper and Miscellaneous Division) Furnishing Fabrics Association Institute of Trading Standards Administration International Wool Secretariat Knitting Industries
6、Federation Ltd. Mail Order Traders Association of Great Britain Man-made Fibres Producers Committee Manchester Testing House Ministry of Defence Society of Dyers and Colourists Textile Distributors Association Textile Institute Textile Research Council Coopted members Amendments issued since publica
7、tion Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS2861:1984 BSI 08-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover National foreword ii 0 Introduction 1 1 Scope and field of application 1 2 References 1 3 Principle 1 4 Apparatus 1 5 Test specimen 1 6 Procedure 1 Figure 1a) Simple weave repeat 3 F
8、igure 1b) Condensed version of Figure 1a) 3 Figure 2a) Drafting and denting plans of simple weave repeat 4 Figure 2b) Condensed version of Figure 2a) 4 Figure 3 Condensed weave repeat with drafting and lifting plansanddentinginstruction 5 Figure 4 Warp and weft yarn arrangement 5 Publications referr
9、ed to Inside back coverBS2861:1984 ii BSI 08-1999 National foreword This revision of this British Standard, which has been prepared under the direction of the Fibres, Yarns, Fabrics and Production Standards Committee, supersedes BS2861:1972, which is withdrawn. It is identical with ISO7211:1984 “Tex
10、tiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part1:Methods for the presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting” published by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). Terminology and conventions. The text of the International Standard has been
11、approved as suitable for publication as a British Standard without deviation. Some terminology and certain conventions are not identical with those used in British Standards; attention is drawn especially to the following. Where the words “International Standard” and “this part of ISO7211” appear, r
12、eferring to this standard, they should be read as “British Standard” and “BS2861”, respectively. The Technical Committee has reviewed the provisions of ISO2959, to which reference is made in the text, and has decided that they are acceptable for use inconjunction with this standard. A related standa
13、rd for ISO2959 is BS946 “Method for the designation of yarns”. NOTETypographical error. In6.4, line4, for “throught” read “through”. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Co
14、mpliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Cross-references International Standard Corresponding British Standard ISO3572:1976 BS5523:1977 Glossary of terms for textiles Weaves Definitions of general terms and basic weaves (Identical) Summary of pages
15、 This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to6, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS2861
16、:1984 BSI 08-1999 1 0 Introduction Although drafting, denting and lifting plans are not strictly within the province of fabric analysis, it has been thought convenient to include methods for their presentation in this part of this International Standard. Nothing within this document precludes the us
17、e of shortened methods of designing used extensively on Jacquard structures where the design is coloured in solid shades and supplied with a written series of card-cutting instructions to apply throughout with only bare details of weave starting points. The attention of users of this part of ISO7211
18、 is drawn to ISO2959 and ISO3572. The terms used in this document are defined in ISO3572. 1 Scope and field of application This part of ISO7211 deals with recording of fabric weaves and makes provision for showing in relation to the weave repeat the sequence in which yarns of different character are
19、 used. A method is also provided for the presentation of the warp and weft yarn arrangement. This part of ISO7211 applies to all woven fabrics, including compound fabrics in which interlacing of the warp and weft threads is accompanied by crossing of warp threads. NOTEIf only a small sample, e.g.4cm
20、 4cm, is available and it is desired to carry out further tests as described in other parts of this International Standard, the following order should be observed: a) Measure the area of the sample and determine the mass per unit area. b) Analyse for weave, keeping the removed threads. c) Use the re
21、moved threads to determine the masses of warp and weft per unit area and/or linear density. 2 References ISO2959, Textiles Woven fabric descriptions. ISO3572, Textiles Weaves Definitions of general terms and basic weaves. 3 Principle The weave repeat shown on design paper is adopted as the means for
22、 showing the weave of the fabric, and provision is made in the repeat for showing the disposition of different yarns in relation to the weave when there is more than one yarn in the warp or weft. A tabular method is used for indicating the sequence of colours in a colour pattern. The drafting, denti
23、ng and lifting plans are shown on the same design paper as the weave repeat and are related to it by conventional methods. 4 Apparatus 4.1 Design paper (see ISO3572). 4.2 Low-power magnifier, such as a counting glass. 4.3 Forceps 4.4 Scissors 4.5 Dissecting needle 5 Test specimen Select a specimen f
24、rom the fabric containing several complete repeats of the weave. 6 Procedure 6.1 Analysis Identify the face, warp and weft. Decide whether to remove the weft from the warp or vice versa. Form a fringe of threads on two perpendicular sides of the specimen by fraying threads until a fringe of about1cm
25、 length is obtained. With the aid of the dissecting needle(4.5), slide threads parallel to one fringed side in order to facilitate recording of interlacing as in6.2. Continue removing threads progressively from the fabric, examining and recording the interlacing of each thread until, from a repeat o
26、f the interlacing of both warp and weft, it can be stated that a complete weave repeat has been obtained. If necessary, superficially singe and lightly shave one of the faces of the fabric to improve the clarity of the interlacing. NOTEIn some cases, where the weave repeat can be obtained directly b
27、y visual examination, possibly with the aid of the magnifier(4.2), dissection of the fabric is not necessary. Record the weave repeat, drafting, denting and lifting plans as in6.2, 6.3, 6.4 and6.5 and, if required, the warp and weft yarn arrangement as in6.6. 6.2 Weave repeat By convention, the vert
28、ical rows of squares or rectangles on the design paper(4.1) are associated with warp threads or ends and horizontal rows with weft threads or picks. Use a mark on design paper to indicate the floating of one thread (usually a warp end) over another. Unless otherwise stated, a mark on design paper is
29、 assumed to indicate an interlacing of a warp end lifted over the weft. On the few occasions when this is inconvenient, indicate clearly that marks are “weft up”. Show at least one full repeat of the weave indicating its dimensions.BS2861:1984 2 BSI 08-1999 It is preferable to show only one repeat o
30、f the weave: that is, discontinue the diagram when further rows of squares in each direction are a repetition of the weave unit already recorded. A repeat of a simple weave is shown in Figure 1a). When it is convenient to do so, the weave repeat may be condensed. This is possible when the weave repe
31、at can be divided warpway or weftway into two or more parts, any of which is made by repeating a sub-weave repeat. Indicate the sub-weave repeat by means of a bracket embracing the appropriate squares, and against the bracket show the number of repeats of the sub-weave preceded by the multiplication
32、 sign. The weave in Figure 1a) can be condensed as shown in Figure 1b). It may be convenient to use a variety of marks (forexample, diagonal, vertical or horizontal strokes) in place of filled-in squares, particularly when variations of notation will clarify the weave construction (for example, comp
33、ound fabrics). 6.3 Drafting plan Draw the drafting plan above the weave repeat Figure 2a). A vertical row of squares representing an end in the weave repeat represents the same end in the drafting plan. The horizontal rows in the drafting plan represent the loom shafts. To represent the passage of a
34、n end through a heald eye on a particular shaft, insert a cross in the square at the intersection of the vertical row representing the end and the horizontal row representing that shaft. The drafting plan may be condensed, when possible, in the manner described for weave repeat Figure 2b). 6.4 Denti
35、ng Show the denting between the weave repeat and drafting plan by means of thick horizontal lines running completely across the row of squares that represent the warp ends that are to pass throught the dent Figure 2a). When condensed presentation of the weave repeat and drafting plan makes thisimpos
36、sible, put the denting instructions inthemargin between the repeat and the plan Figure 2b). 6.5 Lifting plan Draw the lifting plan to the right-hand side of the weave repeat. A horizontal row of squares representing a pick in the weave repeat represents the same pick in the lifting plan. The vertica
37、l rows in the lifting diagram correspond to shafts, the left-hand shaft in the diagram being the same as the lower shaft in the drafting diagram; the association between the two may be indicated by the right-angle line as shown in Figure 3. The association between the other shafts in the two plans m
38、ay be indicated similarly. The lifting plan may be condensed when possible in the manner described for a weave repeat. 6.6 Warp and weft yarn arrangement The warp and weft yarn arrangement may be indicated by the method prescribed for showing different yarns, but generally this is not possible, eith
39、er because the colour and weave repeats are not identical in size, or because they cannot be condensed identically. Show the warp and weft colour patterns in tables, as in Figure 4, in which each colour is represented by a horizontal line of the table and the number of threads in groups of the same
40、colour are shown for consecutive groups in correct sequence across the page. If a sequence of groups is repeated within the colour pattern, this need not be shown in full. The sequence may be indicated by enclosing it between vertical lines whose ends are joined by a bracket embracing the sequence.
41、Show the number of repeats of the sequence at the point of the bracket. Enclose the colour pattern by double vertical lines, joined at their lower ends by a bracket, and for the warp show the number of repeats in the width of the cloth at the point of the bracket. The first thread of the colour patt
42、ern corresponds to the first end in the weave repeat. Show part repeats, or non-repeating colour sequences in the warp at the sides of the cloth, at the sides of the diagram to the left and right of the double vertical lines which bound the colour pattern.BS2861:1984 BSI 08-1999 3 Figure 1a) Simple
43、weave repeat Figure 1b) Condensed version ofFigure 1a)BS2861:1984 4 BSI 08-1999 Figure 2a) Drafting and denting plans ofsimple weave repeat Figure 2b) Condensed version ofFigure 2a)BS2861:1984 BSI 08-1999 5 Figure 3 Condensed weave repeat with drafting and lifting plans and denting instruction Figur
44、e 4 Warp and weft yarn arrangement6 blankBS2861:1984 BSI 08-1999 Publications referred to See national foreword.BS2861:1984 ISO7211-1: 1984 BSI 389 Chiswick High Road London W4 4AL BSIBritishStandardsInstitution BSI is the independent national body responsible for preparing BritishStandards. It pres
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