1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 3104:1970 Incorporating Amendment Nos. 1 and 2 Specification for Polyamide (nylon) mountaineering ropes UDC 677.718:678.675:685.72BS3104:1970 This British Standard, having been approved by the Ropes andCordage Industry StandardsCommittee, was published under the authority ofthe E
2、xecutive Board on 19 February 1970 BSI 08-1999 First published March 1959 First revision February 1970 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference RCT/3 Draft for comment 67/30686 ISBN 580 05816 6 Co-operating organizations The Government departments and sci
3、entific and industrial organizations listed below were represented on the committee entrusted with the preparation of this British Standard: Board of Trade British Railways Board British Tugowners Association Chamber of Shipping of the United Kingdom Cotton Twine Manufacturers Association Council of
4、 British Manufacturers of Petroleum Equipment Crown Agents for Oversea Governments and Administrations Department of Employment and Productivity (H.M. Factory Inspectorate) Dock and Harbour Authorities Association Federation of Soft Fibre Associations Hard Fibre Cordage Institute Lloyds Register of
5、Shipping London Master Stevedores Association Ministry of Defence, Air Force Department Ministry of Defence, Army Department* Ministry of Defence, Navy Department Ministry of Technology Synthetic Cordage Manufacturers Association* The Government department and scientific and industrial organization
6、marked with an asterisk in the above list, together with the following, were directly represented on the committee entrusted with the preparation of this British Standard: Association of Scottish Climbing Clubs British Man-made Fibres Federation British Mountaineering Council Individual Manufacturer
7、s Mountaineering Association Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue Comments 1048 December 1972 1340 March 1974 Indicated by a sideline in the marginBS3104:1970 BSI 08-1999 i Contents Page Co-operating organizations Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Sizes 1 3 Material 1
8、4 Construction 1 5 Lay of rope 2 6 Finish 2 7 Weight 2 8 Length 2 9 Stability 2 10 Performance requirements 2 11 Sampling, testing and compliance 2 12 Conditioning 3 13 Flexibility 3 14 Shrinkage 3 15 Marking 3 Appendix A Method for the determination of breaking load and extension 5 Appendix B Metho
9、d for the determination of flexibility 5 Appendix C Method for the determination of shrinkage 6 Figure 1 3-strand (plain or hawser-laid) Z or right-hand lay 1 Figure 2 Lay of 3-strand rope 2 Table 1 Technical data 4 Table 2 Test lengths for flexibility tests 5BS3104:1970 ii BSI 08-1999 Foreword This
10、 standard makes reference to the following British Standard: BS 3977, Polyamide (nylon) filament ropes (hawser laid.) This British Standard provides requirements for polyamide (nylon) mountaineering ropes and will assist manufacturers by standardizing a limited range of sizes. The duty to which a mo
11、untaineering rope is exposed in emergency may be very severe, particularly in the case of rock climbing, but the conditions imposed are so diverse and so dependent on chance that they cannot be determined by any process of experiment or calculation. The requirements herein have therefore been specif
12、ied on the basis of current good practice. Compliance with these requirements provides the additional safeguard that other desirable properties, not specifically mentioned in the standard, are also obtained. Nonetheless, research and development should continue, with the aim of producing mountaineer
13、ing ropes of even better performance and durability. Four sizes of rope are specified to cover the different uses to which ropes are put in mountaineering. The inclusion of the smaller sizes does not imply a recommendation that they are suitable for all purposes. The loads which may be imposed on mo
14、untaineering ropes in emergency depend on their use, but may be great in relation to their size. Furthermore, experience has shown that there are hazards of severe mechanical damage, and some risk of failure must be recognized. This risk is reduced as the size of rope is increased and it is recommen
15、ded that the heaviest rope consistent with ease of handling be used always. The most severe hazards may occur in rock climbing, for which the heaviest rope (No. 4) is recommended when a single rope is used. When using a double rope for rock climbing a No.3rope is recommended. In the present revision
16、 changes have been made to the performance requirements and to the test procedures in the light of current practice. In particular, changes have been made in the requirements for maximum length of10lays, the reference tension under which measurements are determined, conditioning for testing, and the
17、 clauses relating to flexibility and stability requirements have been amplified. For the first time a method of verifying the effectiveness of heat stabilization has been included. The minimum breaking load of rope No.4has been increased from4200lb(1905kg) to2040kg. NOTEThe metric values given in th
18、is specification are the standard requirements. Values given in imperial units are for information only. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Stan
19、dard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages1 to 6, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorpora
20、ted. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS3104:1970 BSI 08-1999 1 1 Scope This British Standard specifies standard sizes, construction, sampling procedure and methods of test and specifies performance requirements for polyamide (nylon) ropes for mountaineering. 2
21、 Sizes The sizes of the ropes shall be as given in Table 1. The protection afforded by mountaineering ropes is directly related to the size of the rope used, and the heaviest practicable size must always be employed. Only size No.4is recommended for rock climbing when a single rope is used, or size
22、No.3when using a double rope. 3 Material The ropes shall be manufactured from high-tenacity continuous multifilament polyamide yarn of not less than210denier (230 decitex). In no circumstance shall anything other than virgin polyamide multifilament be used. 4 Construction 4.1 The finished rope shall
23、 be flexible and shall consist of three strands, each uniform and well laid and as free as practicable from defects in the yarn, strand and finishing. 4.2 Each strand shall consist of a sufficient and equal number of rope yarns to produce a rope conforming to the particulars shown in Table 1 for any
24、 given size. 4.3 Each rope shall be continuous throughout its length and shall not contain loose ends, splices or joins in the strands or in the rope. 4.4 The rope shall be heat-treated at a minimum temperature of 110 C to set the lay and obtain dimensional stability. 4.5 The direction of lay of rop
25、es shall be “Z” or right-hand lay as shown in Figure 1. Figure 1 3-strand (plain or hawser-laid) Z or right-hand layBS3104:1970 2 BSI 08-1999 5 Lay of rope The lay of the rope, as shown in Figure 2, shall be measured under the appropriate reference tension prescribed in Table 1 by the method given i
26、n Appendix A.2. The maximum length of10lays, after application for1min of the reference tension specified in Table 1, shall not exceed the values given in Table 1. 6 Finish 6.1 The ropes shall normally be supplied in the natural white state but may be dyed any colour as may be agreed between the pur
27、chaser and the supplier. No weighting or loading matter shall be used, but for the purpose of dressing the fibre in manufacture a lubricant may be added, the quantity of which shall be limited to the minimum necessary for this purpose. 6.2 Each end of each rope shall be palm and needle whipped with
28、polyamide yarn over a distance of1in(25mm) and shall be heat-sealed not less than ! in (6mm) away from the whipping. 7 Weight The weight of the rope per100ft (30 m) run shall be as given in Table 1, subject to a tolerance of 5 %. This value shall be calculated from the weight of a10ft (3m) length of
29、 rope. The10ft (3 m) length shall be accurately marked out from the bulk whilst the latter is under the reference tension given in Table 1. It shall then be cut off at the marked places and weighed. The operation of marking shall be carried out within a period of 60 5 s from the application of the r
30、eference tension. 8 Length The supplier shall specify the length of the rope to be supplied. In case of dispute the length shall be determined whilst the rope is subjected to the reference tension. The determination shall be carried out within a period of60 5s from the application of the reference t
31、ension given in Table 1. 9 Stability The relative positions of the strands, yarns and filaments shall remain undisturbed when the rope is subjected to the normal deformation of coiling and uncoiling, loading and unloading. There shall be no tendency to develop permanent kinks, bulges, or other defec
32、ts of lay in normal use. 10 Performance requirements The breaking load shall be not less than the minimum value specified in Table 1. The extension at 20 % of the specified minimum breaking load shall be not more than 25 % and at rupture shall be not less than 40 %. 11 Sampling, testing and complian
33、ce A test frequency of one test in each manufacturers batch of finished rope shall be applied. Additional tests may be called for at the discretion of the inspecting authority. For the guidance of the authority, it is normal to manufacture cordage in lengths of720ft (220 m) and one batch would consi
34、st of approximately ten such lengths. If any sample fails to comply with any of the prescribed tests two further test lengths shall be taken from the same batch. If either of these fails to comply with the described tests the batch represented by it shall be deemed not to comply with the standard. F
35、igure 2 Lay of 3-strand ropeBS3104:1970 BSI 08-1999 3 12 Conditioning Tests shall normally be carried out under ordinary room conditions. In all cases of dispute, however, tests for breaking load and extension shall be carried out on samples which have been conditioned for not less than 24 h in an a
36、tmosphere maintained at a relative humidity of 65 2 % and at a temperature of 20 2 C (68 4 F). Where practicable the tests shall be made in this standard atmosphere; otherwise they shall be started within15min of removal of the test specimens from the standard atmosphere and shall proceed without in
37、terruption. 13 Flexibility The flexibility of the rope shall be determined in accordance with the procedure described in Appendix B. The mean of the four measurements made as described in B.3 and B.4 shall be not less than 40 and not more than80 . 14 Shrinkage The effectiveness of the heat stabiliza
38、tion of the rope shall be determined in accordance with the method given in Appendix C. When measured as described in the method, the distance between the marks shall be not less than970mm, i.e. the shrinkage shall not exceed 3 %. 15 Marking Polyamide mountaineering ropes complying with the requirem
39、ents of this British Standard shall have a label attached marked with: the manufacturers name or identification mark, the number of this British Standard, i.e.BS3104, and the rope number and nominal weight per100ft(30 m). NOTEAttention is drawn to certification facilities offered by BSI; see the ins
40、ide back cover of this standard.BS 3104:1970 4 BSI 08-1999 Table 1 Technical data Rope no. Nominal diameter Approximate circumference Nominal weight Minimum breaking load Maximum length of10lays under reference tension Reference tension for measurement of weight, circumference, length of lay and ext
41、ension mm in kg/30 m lb/100 ft kg mm in kg 1 2 3 4 5 7 10 11 * + 1! 1) 0.57 1.14 1.9 2.5 1.25 2.5 4.25 5.5 450 900 1590 2040 150 240 305 330 6 9.5 12 13 3 6 13 15 NOTE 1The SI unit for force is the newton. A load of 1 kg / 1 decanewton (daN) NOTE 2Reference tension is based on the formula given in B
42、S5053, “Methods of test for cordage and allied articles” where t is the tension exerted by a gravitational load in kg and d is the rope diameter in mm. i.e. t d 2 8 - =BS3104:1970 BSI 08-1999 5 Appendix A Method for the determination of breaking load and extension A.1 Breaking load and extension sha
43、ll be determined on the finished rope on a power-driven machine of appropriate capacity and type, providing a constant rate of traverse. The rate of traverse shall be3 1in(76 25mm) per min for a test length of not less than 3 ft (915 mm) and pro rata for longer lengths. A.2 The specimen shall be mou
44、nted with an initial length of not less than3ft (1 m) between the grips of the machine. The reference tension shall be applied and the distance between two marked points on the rope, not less than25in (635mm) apart and clear of the grips, shall be measured after605s. Alternatively the specimen may b
45、e laid on a flat surface, and the reference tension applied at one end by means of weights over a pulley, the other end of the specimen being clamped to the flat surface. After60 5s the distance between two marked points, not less than25in (635 mm) apart, shall be measured and the specimen then tran
46、sferred to the tensile testing machine, care being taken to ensure that the rope lay is not disturbed during this transfer. A.3 The tension shall be increased to 20% of the specified minimum breaking load and the tension maintained while the distance between the two points is measured after60 5s. A.
47、4 The rope shall then be continuously extended, at the rate specified above, until rupture occurs. The breaking load and the distance between the two points at rupture shall be measured. The extension at rupture shall be computed as a percentage of the length at the reference tension. NOTECare shoul
48、d be taken in carrying out the measurement of extension. It is dangerous to work on the rope with a tape measure held by hand. A.5 The tensile tests shall take account only of actual breaks which occur clear of the grips of the machine, except in cases where rupture occurs at the grips at a load in
49、excess of the specified minimum. Appendix B Method for the determination of flexibility B.1 The flexibility of the rope shall be determined by measuring the sag of a loop under the conditions specified below. A length of the rope shall be laid in a relaxed condition on a smooth horizontal table and two spot marks made on the surface of the rope at a distance apart appropriate to the size of the rope as given in Table 2. B.2 The two marks shall be brought together without altering the twist in the rope, thus forming a loop, and the
