1、BRITISH STANDARD BS5131-3.4: 1978 Methods of Test for footwear and footwear materials Part3: Uppers, textiles and threads Section3.4 Edgewise compressibility, upper materials NOTEIt is recommended that this Section should be read in conjunction with the information in the General introduction to BS5
2、131, published separately. UDC 685.31:620.1:685.312.142.2:539.411BS5131-3.4:1978 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authority ofthe Executive Board on 31May1978 BSI 12-1999 The following BSI references relate to
3、 the work on this standard: Committee reference CLT/7 Draft for comment76/35887 DC ISBN 0 580 10226 2 A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standar
4、d does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 and2 and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated
5、 in the amendment table on the inside front cover. Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS5131-3.4:1978 BSI 12-1999 i Contents Page 1 Scope 1 2 Principle 1 3 Apparatus 1 4 Conditioning and testing atmosphere 1 5 Test pieces 1 6 Procedure 1 7 Expression of results 1 8 Te
6、st report 2 Figure 1 Positioning the test piece 2 Figure 2 Bending of the test piece 2 Figure 3 Wrinkling of the test piece 2ii blankBS5131-3.4:1978 BSI 12-1999 1 1 Scope This Section describes a method for measuring the extent to which upper materials will shorten or compress in an edgewise directi
7、on without forming pleats or wrinkles. This ability to accept compression is one of the factors that determines how cleanly the toe of the upper can be lasted. This method is applicable to all upper materials, but is most useful when comparing materials of the same basic type. NOTESection3.4 is base
8、d on SATRA 1)Physical test methodPM44. 2 Principle A test piece is supported in a horizontal plane by two clamps, one fixed and one movable. The movable clamp is moved towards the other causing the test piece to bend. A flat, transparent, rigid plastics bar is pressed down on the bent portion of the
9、 test piece and the degree of wrinkling, as viewed through this bar, is assessed. 3 Apparatus The following apparatus is required. 3.1 An instrument capable of clamping a test piece in a horizontal plane, with one fixed clamp and one movable along a fixed scale. NOTEThe SATRA Wrinkleometer STD119, s
10、hown in Figure 1 toFigure 3, is suitable. 3.2 Transparent rigid plastics bar,24mm to25mm wide. 3.3 The test piece is held in position on the base of the instrument by two screw clamps (seeFigure 1). One of the clamps (B) is in a fixed position on the base while the other (A) may be moved laterally r
11、elative to the base, the amount of movement being shown by a scale. This allows the two clamps to be tightened on to the test piece a known distance apart and then clamp A is moved back to its original or zero position thus bending the test piece as shown in Figure 2. The separation of the two clamp
12、s in the zero position is25mm. 4 Conditioning and testing atmosphere Condition the test pieces for48h at20 2 C and652% relative humidity and carry out the test in this atmosphere. 5 Test pieces Cut one strip25mm wide and approximately150mm long in each principal direction. 6 Procedure 6.1 Unscrew cl
13、amps A and B and slide the test piece into position underneath them, then clamp the test piece with clamp B. Unscrew the wing nut on the base and move clamp A to bring a suitable scale reading in line with the reference mark on the base. The scale is marked from0mm to8mm in steps of1mm and the4mm re
14、ading is usually a suitable starting point for the test. Tighten the wing nut. 6.2 Screw down clamp A so that the portion of the test piece between the two clamps is flat. Unscrew the wing nut and slide clamp A as far as possible towards clamp B, i.e.until the scale zero and reference mark align, an
15、d tighten the wing nut to hold clamp A in this position. This produces a hump in the test piece as shown in Figure 2. 6.3 Lay the transparent rigid plastics bar across the humped portion and press it down by hand causing the test piece to wrinkle as shown in Figure 3. 6.4 Inspect the wrinkling produ
16、ced and decide whether it is acceptable or not. If it is acceptable with that setting repeat the test, using a different part of the strip and increasing the test length, i.e.the scale setting, by1mm. If the degree of wrinkling is unacceptable repeat the test, with a lower scale setting, using a dif
17、ferent part of the test strip. 6.5 Continue until two readings,1mm apart are obtained, the lower one of which gives an acceptable result and the higher one an unacceptable result. 6.6 Test the test piece cut in the other direction in the same manner. 7 Expression of results 7.1 Record the scale sett
18、ing for the lower of the two results obtained in6.5. 7.2 Record the results from test pieces cut in different directions separately. 1) Shoe and Allied Trades Research Association.BS5131-3.4:1978 2 BSI 12-1999 8 Test report Include the following items in the test report: a) the result, expressed in
19、accordance with clause7; b) the nature and full identification of the sample(s); c) reference to the method of test (i.e.BS5131-3.4); d) the date of testing. Figure 1 Positioning the test piece Figure 2 Bending of the test piece Figure 3 Wrinkling of the test pieceblankBS5131-3.4: 1978 BSI 389 Chisw
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