1、raising standards worldwideNO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAWBSI Standards PublicationBS EN 893:2010Mountaineering equipment Crampons Safetyrequirements and test methodsLicensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c)
2、 BSIBS EN 893:2010 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 893:2010. It supersedes BS EN 893:1999, which is withdrawn. The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to T e c h n i c a l Committee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other Recreationa
3、l Equipment - Mountaineering Equipment.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. BSI 2011 ISBN 978 0 580 70
4、544 1 ICS 97.220.40 Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 28 February 2011. Amendments issued since publicationDate T e x t a f f e c t e dLicensed Copy:
5、 Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 893 November 2010 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 893:1999English Version Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods Equ
6、ipement dalpinisme et descalade - Crampons - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 9 October 2010. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regu
7、lations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member. This
8、 European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are t
9、he national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden,
10、Switzerland and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2010 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref.
11、 No. EN 893:2010: ELicensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EN 893:2010 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3Introduction .41 Scope 52 Normative references 53 Terms and definitions .54 Safety requirements 84.1 Shape and design 84.2 Pre
12、vention against slippage .84.3 Strength 84.3.1 Hardness .84.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes .84.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings .94.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails 94.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding
13、.94.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame 95 Test methods 95.1 Test samples 95.2 Test conditions 95.3 Apparatus 105.4 Test procedure 115.4.1 Shape, design and hardness . 115.4.2 Prevention against slippage 115.4.3 Bending strength test on spikes . 125.4.4 Transverse strength test on bails . 135.4.5
14、 Strength test of binding parts other than bails . 145.4.6 Strength test of binding closures . 165.4.7 Strength test of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding . 165.4.8 Longitudinal strength test of the frame 166 Marking 187 Information supplied by the manufacturer 18An
15、nex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 19Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC 20Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:20
16、10EN 893:2010 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 893:2010) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either
17、by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2011, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by May 2011. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC
18、shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 893:1999. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/6
19、86/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belg
20、ium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. Licensed
21、Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EN 893:2010 (E) 4 Introduction The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard S (Union Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme / International mountaineering and climbi
22、ng federation), which has been developed with international participation. This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EN 893:2010 (
23、E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons preventing the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the applicat
24、ion of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials Rockwell
25、hardness test Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, K, N, T) (ISO 6508-1:2005) ISO 9523, Touring ski-boots for adults Interface with touring ski-binding Requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply (s
26、ee also Figure 1). 3.1 crampon device fitted with spikes, which is intended to cover the sole of a boot, from toe to heel and from one side to the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of attachment to the boot 3.2 frame part or parts of the crampon which
27、 bears the spikes 3.3 front spike forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain 3.4 downward spike spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward 3.5 binding system of attachment to the boot 3.6 clip-on binding particular binding which uses a lever mechanism f
28、or rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot 3.7 bail stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of the boot Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EN 893:2010 (E) 6 3.8 a
29、ttachment rings or eyes rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the manufacturers instruction 3.9 adjustment system system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot 3.10 retaining system system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the
30、 binding fails 3.11 spur other spike than front spikes and downward spikes Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EN 893:2010 (E) 7 NOTE The numbers in this figure refer to the corresponding terms defined in Clause 3. Figure 1
31、 Parts of a crampon Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EN 893:2010 (E) 8 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Shape and design 4.1.1 Each crampon shall have a system of attachment to the boot. 4.1.2 Each crampon shall have at least e
32、ight spikes, not including spurs. 4.1.3 Each crampon shall have at least six downward spikes, which: a) shall be at least 20 mm long (see Figure 2) and not necessarily all the same length; b) when walking normally on flat and smooth ice, shall contact the surface of the ice, but not necessarily at t
33、he same time; and c) shall be shaped such that when loaded with one persons weight whilst walking on smooth ice, the downward spikes will “bite“ into the ice such as to prevent slipping. Dimensions in millimetres Figure 2 Length of spikes 4.1.4 All edges with which the users hands can come into cont
34、act shall be free from burrs. 4.1.5 If the crampon has a clip-on binding it shall be fitted with a retaining system. 4.2 Prevention against slippage When tested according to 5.4.2, the crampons shall not slip on the ice more than 10 mm in each direction. 4.3 Strength 4.3.1 Hardness Each part of the
35、crampon, which contains a spike or spikes, shall have a hardness of at least 70 HRB. Testing according to 5.4.1.3. 4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes When tested according to 5.4.3, the maximum deformation under load and the permanent deformation after removing the load, measured at the p
36、oint of application, shall not be more than shown in Table 1. The breaking strength shall be at least as shown in Table 1. Spurs shall be tested with a load applied in each intended direction. Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 89
37、3:2010EN 893:2010 (E) 9 Table 1 Strength of spikes Types of spikes Applied force N Deformation under load mm Permanent deformation mm Minimum breaking strength N Downward spikes 900 20 15 7 1 200 Front spikes (if more than one) and spur 1 200 30 15 7 1 500 Single front spike (mono-spike) 1 600 40 15
38、 7 2 000 4.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings When tested in the operating position and according to 5.4.4, the bails of clip-on bindings shall not break and shall not come out of the frame of the crampon. Permanent deformation is acceptable. If the crampon is directly attached or
39、integrated into a boot the transverse strength requirements are not applicable. 4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails When tested according to 5.4.5, each part shall not break. 4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding When tested according to
40、5.4.7, attachment rings and eyes and the appropriate part of the binding shall not break. If the crampon is directly attached or integrated into a boot the strength requirements are not applicable. 4.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame When tested according to 5.4.8, the frame including the longi
41、tudinal adjustment system shall not break. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples The tests shall be carried out on the following number of test samples: a) if the left and the right crampon are of identical shape: two test samples (one test sample for the tests in 5.4.3 and one test sample for the tests i
42、n 5.4.1 and 5.4.4 to 5.4.8); b) if the left and the right crampon are of different shapes: two pairs (one pair for the tests in 5.4.3 and one pair for the tests in 5.4.1 and 5.4.4 to 5.4.8). 5.2 Test conditions 5.2.1 All tests shall be carried out at a room temperature of (23 5) C. Licensed Copy: Wa
43、ng Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EN 893:2010 (E) 10 5.2.2 For any strength test involving non-metallic parts the test samples shall be conditioned for 1 h in clean water of domestic supply and then for 4 h at a temperature of (- 30 5) C.
44、 The test samples shall be conditioned in the operating position. The test shall then begin within 3 min from removal from conditioning. 5.3 Apparatus 5.3.1 Load bar for bending test on downward spikes and front spikes. The spikes shall be provided with a groove, as shown in Figure 3. The load bar f
45、or applying a load shall be compatible with the shape of the groove. Dimensions in millimetres Key a) Load direction for down spikes of frame with horizontal structure b) Load direction for front spikes of frame with vertical structure c) Load direction on front spike test Figure 3 Load bar for bend
46、ing test Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 23/05/2011 08:41, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 893:2010EN 893:2010 (E) 11 5.4 Test procedure 5.4.1 Shape, design and hardness 5.4.1.1 Check by visual examination and measurement, where appropriate, that the requirements according to
47、4.1.1, 4.1.2, 4.1.3, a), 4.1.4 and 4.1.5 are met. 5.4.1.2 Check the requirements of 4.1.3, b) by visual examination of a person walking on flat smooth ice, wearing a suitable boot to which the crampon is attached in accordance with the information supplied by the manufacturer. Count the number of do
48、wnward spikes which contact the ice during the walking motion. 5.4.1.3 Check the requirements of 4.3.1 in accordance with EN ISO 6508-1. 5.4.2 Prevention against slippage 5.4.2.1 Preparation of the ice-block Fill an ice container, large enough to receive a crampon, with water and store it at tempera
49、ture of (- 20 2) C for 12 h. Smooth off any uneven surface of the ice. The crampon shall be also conditioned the same way. 5.4.2.2 Procedure Carry out the test at room temperature (20 5) C less than 10 min after leaving the conditioned atmosphere. Clamp the ice container and place the crampon on it. A test subject (M) of 40 kg M 100 kg wearing the boot and crampon shall load the ice. Apply a force F in the forward direction in accordance with Figure 4. F shall be c
