1、 CAN/CGSB-4.2 No. 32.1-98 Supersedes CAN/CGSB-4.2 No. 32.1-M91 Reaffirmed November 2013 National Standard of Canada ICS 59.080.01 Textile test methods Resistance of woven fabrics to seam slippage The CANADIAN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD (CGSB), under whose auspices this standard has been developed, is a
2、 government agency within Public Works and Government Services Canada. CGSB is engaged in the production of voluntary standards in a wide range of subject areas through the media of standards committees and the consensus process. The standards committees are composed of representatives of relevant i
3、nterests including producers, consumers and other users, retailers, governments, educational institutions, technical, professional and trade societies, and research and testing organizations. Any given standard is developed on the consensus of views expressed by such representatives. CGSB has been a
4、ccredited by the Standards Council of Canada as a national standards-development organization. The standards that it develops and offers as National Standards of Canada conform to the criteria and procedures established for this purpose by the Standards Council of Canada. In addition to standards it
5、 publishes as National Standards of Canada, CGSB produces standards to meet particular needs, in response to requests from a variety of sources in both the public and private sectors. Both CGSB standards and CGSB national standards are developed in conformance with the policies described in the CGSB
6、 Policy and Procedures Manual for the Development and Maintenance of Standards. CGSB standards are subject to review and revision to ensure that they keep abreast of technological progress. CGSB will initiate the review of this standard within five years of the date of publication. Suggestions for t
7、heir improvement, which are always welcome, should be brought to the notice of the standards committees concerned. Changes to standards are issued either as separate amendment sheets or in new editions of standards. An up-to-date listing of CGSB standards, including details on latest issues and amen
8、dments, and ordering instructions, is found in the CGSB Catalogue at our Web site www.tpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca/ ongc-cgsb along with more information about CGSB products and services. Although the intended primary application of this standard is stated in its Scope, it is important to note that it remains
9、the responsibility of the users of the standard to judge its suitability for their particular purpose. The testing and evaluation of a product against this standard may require the use of materials and/or equipment that could be hazardous. This document does not purport to address all the safety asp
10、ects associated with its use. Anyone using this standard has the responsibility to consult the appropriate authorities and to establish appropriate health and safety practices in conjunction with any applicable regulatory requirements prior to its use. CGSB neither assumes nor accepts any responsibi
11、lity for any injury or damage that may occur during or as the result of tests, wherever performed. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this Canadian standard may be the subject of patent rights. CGSB shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent
12、rights. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights is entirely their own responsibility. Further information on CGSB and its services and standards may be obtained from: The Manager Standards Division Canadian General Standards Board Gat
13、ineau, Canada K1A 1G6 The Standards Council of Canada (SCC) is the coordinating body of the Canadian standardization network, which is composed of people and organizations involved in the development, promotion and implementation of standards. Through the collaborative efforts of Canadian standardiz
14、ation network members, standardization is helping to advance the social and economic well-being of Canada and to safeguard the health and safety of Canadians. The networks efforts are overseen by SCC. The principal objectives of SCC are to foster and promote voluntary standardization as a means of a
15、dvancing the national economy, supporting sustainable development, benefiting the health, safety and welfare of workers and the public, assisting and protecting the consumer, facilitating domestic and international trade, and furthering international cooperation in relation to standardization. An im
16、portant facet of the Canadian standards development system is the use of the following principles: consensus; equal access and effective participation by concerned interests; respect for diverse interests and identification of those who should be afforded access to provide the needed balance of inte
17、rests; mechanism for dispute resolution; openness and transparency; open access by interested parties to the procedures guiding the standards development process; clarity with respect to the processes; and Canadian interest consideration as the initial basis for the development of standards. A Natio
18、nal Standard of Canada (NSC) is a standard prepared or reviewed by an SCC-accredited SDO and approved by the SCC according to NSC approval requirements. Approval does not refer to the technical content of the standard, as this remains the responsibility of the SDO. An NSC reflects a consensus of a n
19、umber of capable individuals whose collective interests provide, to the greatest practicable extent, a balance of representation of general interests, producers, regulators, users (including consumers) and others with relevant interests, as may be appropriate to the subject at hand. NSCs are intende
20、d to make a significant and timely contribution to the Canadian interest. Those who have a need to apply standards are encouraged to use NSCs. These standards are subject to periodic review. Users of NSCs are cautioned to obtain the latest edition from the SDO that publishes the standard. The respon
21、sibility for approving standards as NSCs rests with: Standards Council of Canada 270 Albert Street, Suite 200 Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6N7, CANADA How to order Publications: by telephone 819-956-0425 or 1-800-665-2472 by fax 819-956-5740 by mail CGSB Sales Centre Gatineau, Canada K1A 1G6 in person Place
22、du Portage Phase III, 6B1 11 Laurier Street Gatineau, Quebec by email ncr.cgsb-ongctpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca on the Web www.tpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca/ongc-cgsb NATIONAL STANDARD OF CANADA CAN/CGSB-4.2 No. 32.1-98 Supersedes CAN/CGSB-4.2 No. 32.1-M91 Reaffirmed November 2013 Textile test methods Resistance of woven
23、fabrics to seam slippage CETTE NORME NATIONALE DU CANADA EST DISPONIBLE EN VERSIONS FRANAISE ET ANGLAISE. Published June 1998 by the Canadian General Standards Board Gatineau, Canada K1A 1G6 Minister of Public Works and Government Services Canada 1998 No part of this publication may be reproduced in
24、 any form without the prior permission of the publisher. Prepared by the Canadian General Standards Board Approved by the CAN/CGSB-4.2 No. 32.1-98 CGSB 2013 All rights reserved CANADIAN GENERAL STANDARDS BOARD Committee on Textile Test Methods and Terminology (Voting membership at date of reaffirmat
25、ion) General interest category Batcheller, J. University of Alberta Carrick, D. Consultant Davie, N. Consultant Liu, S. University of Manitoba Man, T.M. Consultant Tait, C. National Defence/DSSPM Producer category Adam, C. Tencate Protective Fabrics Canada Boivin, D. E.I. DuPont Co. Lawson, L. Davey
26、 Textile Solutions Leblanc, J.-M. Marv Holland Apparel Ltd. Schumann, E. Lincoln Fabrics Ltd. Taylor, V. Invista (Canada) Co. Regulator category Andersson, C. Health Canada User category Bourget, S. National Defence/QETE DEntremont, E. Royal Canadian Mounted Police Izquierdo, V. Textile Technologies
27、 Centre Kohli, G. Sears Canada Inc. Larsen, A.-L. Exova Group Ltd. Litva, M. Canada Border Services Agency MacLeod, J. Public Works and Government Services Canada Tebbs, C. International Drycleaners Congress Secretary (non-voting) Grabowski, M. Canadian General Standards Board Acknowledgment is made
28、 for the translation of this National Standard of Canada by the Translation Bureau of Public Works and Government Services Canada. CGSB 2013 All rights reserved i CAN/CGSB-4.2 No. 32.1-98 Supersedes CAN/CGSB-4.2 No. 32.1-M91 Reaffirmed November 2013 Preface to the National Standard of Canada This Na
29、tional Standard of Canada has been reaffirmed by the CGSB Committee on Textile Test Methods and Terminology. Editorial changes have been made by the correction of the following paragraph: 9.1 Source of Referenced Publications The publications referred to in par. 3.1.1 may be obtained from the Canadi
30、an General Standards Board, Sales Centre, Gatineau, Canada K1A 1G6. Telephone 819-956-0425 or 1-800-665-2472. Fax 819-956-5740. E-mail ncr.cgsb-ongctpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca. Web site www.tpsgc-pwgsc.gc.ca/ongc-cgsb. Reaffirmed1RYember 20133.2 4. 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.3.1 4.3.2 4.3.3 4.4 4.4.1 4.4.2 4.5 4.5.1 4.5.2
31、 Parallel to the direction of application of the force Perpendicular to the direction of the application of the force A reference to a regulation is always to the latest issue. A dated reference is to the issue specified. An undated reference is to the latest issue (including amendments), unless oth
32、erwise specified by the authority applying this method. The sources are given in the Notes section. Front Face (mm) Back Face (mm) 25 25 25 50 (min.) APPARATUS AND MATERIALS Electrically operated single-needle lock-stitch sewing machine. Machine needle as specified in Table 2. Tensile testing machin
33、e) for use in this method shall operate on one of the following principles: a. Constant-rate-of-extension (CE) b. Constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT). Constant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Machine - A testing machine in which one end of the specimen is held by a virtually stationary clamp attached to a suita
34、ble weighing system for detecting and recording the force applied. The other end of the specimen is gripped in a clamp that is driven at a constant speed. Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Machine - A testing machine in which one end of the specimen is held by a clamp driven at a constant speed while
35、the other end is gnpped in a clamp attached to a weighing mechanism of a type that permits movement of the attached clamp, e.g. as in pendulum machines. The specimen is therefore not extended at a constant rate.? The tensile testing machine shall be equipped with an autographic recording device for
36、tracing a force-elongation curve of the test specimen. Clamps for Tensile Testing Machine The clamps of the machine shall be capable of holding the specimen without allowing it to slip, and shall be so designed that they do not cut or otherwise weaken the specimen. The faces of the jaws shall be pla
37、ne and parallel. The dimensions of the front gripping surface shall be as shown in Table 1. Sewing Thread3 White core-spun polyesterkotton thread in accordance with CANKGSB-4.131, Class A, Type 1, 40 or 50 tex, or Bonded multicord nylon thread in accordance with CGSB standard 4-GP-85, Type 2, 70 tex
38、. Significant errors due to inertia are Pequently encountered in testing machines whose weighing mechanisms are massive, especially if such machines are used on materials with low extensibilities or are operated at high speeds. Caution should therefore be exercised in testing specimens when the forc
39、es recorded are near the lower end of the force range of such machines. For sewing rhreads that meet these requirements, it is suggested that the user contact the thread manufacturers for technical in formation. 2 NO. 32.1-98 I Fabric Sewing Thread Apparel 40 tex Apparel 50 tex 1220 g/m? (par. 4.5.1
40、) 220 g/m2 (par. 4.5.1) Furnishing 70 tex (par. 4.5.2) 5. 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.5.1 5.6 6. 6.1 6.2 6.2.1 Needle Size Stitches per 100 111111 12/80 40 i6/100 40 18/110 32 TEST SPECIMENS The fabric shall be conditioned in accordance with CANKGSB-4.2 No. 2. At least five specimens shall be tested with
41、the seam sewn parallel to the warp and five specimens with the seam parallel to the weft. If a higher degree of precision is required, more specimens shall be tested: Prepare each specimen for determining resistance to seam slippage with the seam parallel to the warp, by cutting from the sample a pi
42、ece of about 100 x 350 mm, the longer dimension being at right angles to-the warp direction of the fabric. Draw on each specimen, with a soft marking pencil, a line parallel to the yams forming the long dimension and 40 mm from the edge, to aid in placing the specimen in the testing machine. Fold th
43、e specimen back upon itself so that the distance from the fold to one end is about 100 mm taking care to have the fold parallel to the warp yarns. Sew the two layers of fabric together at least 15 mm from the fold, using a lock- stitch. It is important that during sewing the thread is held under uni
44、form tension and the seam is parallel to the warp yarns. After seaming, cut the specimen along the fold and trim away excess fabric exactly 12 mm from the seam. Unless otherwise specified, stitching shall be in accordance with Table 2. TABLE 2 Prepare each weft specimen as described in par: 5.3, 5.4
45、 and 5.5 except that the long dimension shall be at right angles to the weft yarns and the seam sewn parallel to the weft yarns. PROCEDURE The distance between the clamps of the testing machine at the star& of the test shall be 75 _+ 1 mm. The speed of the clamp through which the force is applied sh
46、all be 300 k 10 mm per minute. When using a Constant-Rate-of- Traverse (CRT) (pendulum) type machine, the ratchet pawls shall be rendered inoperative during the test. Force-Elongation Curve of Fabric Clamp the specimen in the upper clamp, at the end farthest from the seam and 25 mm in from the end,
47、so that the edges of the clamps are 40 mm from the edge of the specimen and coincide with the line drawn on the specimen. Tighten the lower clamp, taking care to ensure that the tension in the specimen is uniform across the clamped width. - The average result for the specimens tested is an estimate
48、of the true average for the material under test. A measure of the reliability of this estimate can be obtained by determining the conflence interval (CANICGSB-4.2 No. I, par. 6.2) within which the true mean will be for any given probability. The lock-stitch shall conform to Type301 of CANICGSB-54.1
49、Part IIISO 4915 and the seam to Type 1.01.01 of CANICGSB-Si?.I Part 2tISO 4916. NO. 32.1-98 3 6.2.2 6.3 6.3.1 7. 7.1 7.2 7.3 8. 8.1 With the pen on the chart set at the zero force point (usually the ordinate) and on any convenient point of the abscissa, start the machine and apply force until the specimen breaks or a suitable maximum force is reached: at the same time record the force-elongation curve automatically. Force-Elongation Curve of the Fabric and Seam Grip the same specimen in the clamps of the machine (par. 6.2.1) so that the seam is locate
