1、CGSB CANICGSB-4. L75-M91*PT3 * M L874b50 00L05b8 450 NATIONAL NORME CAN/CGSB-4.175-M91 STANDARD NATIONALE Part/Partie 3 OF CANADA DU CANADA IS0 3572:1976 Textiles - Textiles - Weaves - Armures - Definitions of Dfinitions des General termes Terms and gnraux et Basic Weaves des armures de base Prepare
2、d by/Prpar this remains the continuing responsibility of the accredited standards-writing organitation. Those who have a need to apply standards are encouraged to use National Standards of Canada whenever practicable. These standards are subject to periodic review; therefore, users are cautioned to
3、obtain the latest edition from the organization preparing the standard. The responsibility for approving National Standards of Canada rests with the: Standards Council of Canada 350 Sparks Street Ottawa, Ontario K1P 6N7 Le CONSEIL CANADIEN DES NORMES est lorganisme de coordination du Sydme de normes
4、 nationales, une fdration dorganismes indpendants et autonomes qui travaillent au dyeloppement et lamlioration de la normalisation volontaire dahs Iintrt national. Les principaux buts du Conseil sont dencourager et de promouvoir la normalisation volontaire comme moyen damliorer lconomie nationale, d
5、amliorer ia sant, la scurit et le bien-tre du public, daider et de protger le consommateur, de faciliter le commerce nationai et international et de favoriser la coopration internationale dans le domaine de la normalition. Une Norme nationaie du Canada est une norme, approuve par le Conseil canadien
6、 des nomes, qui reflte une entente raisonnable parmi les points de vue dun certain nombre de personnes competentes dont les intrts runis forment, au degr le plus lev possible, une reprsentation quilibre des producteurs, utilisateurs, consommateurs et dautres personnes intresses, selon le domaine env
7、isag. II sagit gnralement dune norme qui peu! apporter une contribution apprciile, en temps opportun, Iintert national. Lapprobation dune norme en tant que Norme nationale du Canada indique quelle est conforme aux critres et mthodes tablis par le Conseil canadien des nomes. Lapprobation ne porte pas
8、 sur laspect technique de la norme; cet aspect demeure la responsabilit de lorganisme rdacteur de nomes accrdit. II est recommand aux personnes qui ont besoin de nomes de se servir des Normes nationales du Canada lorsque la chose est possible. Ces noms font lobjet dexamens priodiques; cest pourquoi
9、il est recommand aux utilisateurs de se procurer ldition la plus rcente de la norme auprs de lorganisme qui la prpare. La responsabilit dapprouver les Normes nationales du Canada incombe au: Conseil canadien des nomes 350, rue Sparks Ottawa Ontano K1P 6N7 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board P
10、rovided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CANICGSB-4- L75-U91*PT3 U*= 1874650 0010571 T45 CANICGSB-4.175-M91 Pamartie 3 IS0 3572:1976 NATIONAL STANDARD OF CANADA TEXTILES - WEAVES - DEFINITIONS OF GENERAL TERMS AND B
11、ASIC WEAVES NORME NATI ON ALE DU CANADA Prepared by/Preparee par International Organization for Standardization lOrganisation internationale de normalisation TEXTILES - ARMURES - DFINITIONS DES TERMES GNRAUX ET DES ARMURES DE BASE Reviewed by/Revisee par lOffice des normes genrales du Canada filling
12、 : Threads running in the direction of the width of a fabi ic as produced 2.4 pick: A weft thread or a group of weft threads inserted in a fabric by one traverse of the picking mechanism between two consecutive beat ups, i.e during one cycle of weaving. NOTE - The terms end and pick are often connec
13、ted with a reference length, for example 15 picks per centimetre, 15 ends per centimetre 2.5, face : The surface of a fabric that is intended to be seen. NOTE - If both surfaces of a fabric are intended to be seen, either can be regarded as the face. 2.6 back : The surface of a fabric opposite to th
14、e face 2.7 interlacing: The crossing of warp and weft threads over and under each other 2.8 weave : The pattern of interlacing of warp and weft in a woven fabric. NOTE - There are three basic weaves, plain. twill and sateen (see a clause 3). 2.9 weave repeat : The smallest number of warp and weft th
15、reads required for the pattern of a weave. 2.10 first warp thread : The first warp thread on the left in a weave repeat. 2.1 1 first weft thread : The bottom weft thread in a weave repeat. 2.12 float: A length of thread between adjacent interlacings. NOTE - The length of a float is defined by the nu
16、mber of warp threads over which a weft thread goes, or the number of weft threads over which a warp thread goes, as relevant. 2.13 stitch; binder; binding point : An interlacing whose purpose is : a) to bind long floats in a single structure, or b) to bind together different layers, or c) to bind ba
17、cking threads to the face weave in a multiple structure. 2.14 twill line : A diagonal line formed by the weave. NOTE - The letter S or 2 las appropriate) may be used to designate the direction of the slope of the twill line. 2.15 design paper : Paper having vertical and horizontal ruled lines that a
18、re suitable for illustrating weaves and designs NOTE - Usually each space between vertical lines represents one warp thread, and each space between horizontal lines represents one weft thread The design paper commonly used has equally spaced tine ruling, with heavy overruling in blocks of convenient
19、 size. 2.16 weave diagram : The representation of the interlacing of a weave on design paper. NOTE - An end lifted over a pick IS usually illustrated by inserting a symbol in a small rectangle of the design paper, i.e. such a mark indicates “warp up” and an unfilled square indicates ”weft up”. CAN/C
20、GSB-4.175-M91 Partie 3 1 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-CGSB CAN/CGS+B-4- L75-M9L*PT3 XX Li4b50 O030576 527 IS0 3572-1976 (F) 2.17 coupe transversale dun dessin darmu
21、re: La figure ci-aprs montre lentrecroisement dun fil de chaine ou dune duite tel quil se voit sur la tranche de ltoffe. Exemples : Coupe transversal e Coupe transversale 0 Sens chaine Sens trame NOTE - Lorsquelle est utilisk. la coupe transversale dans le sens chaine doit tre donne sur le cte gauch
22、e du dessin darmure, et la coupe transversale dans le sens trame doit tre donnb au bas du dessin darmure. Les fils de chaine ou les duites pris en consideration doivent move number: The number of picks by which a warp thread interlacing in a weave moves relative to the preceding warp thread. 2.19 dr
23、afting plan : A plan indicating the order in which warp yarns are drawn through the eyes of the healds on the heald shafts. 2.20 lifting plan : A plan indicating the order of lifting heald shafts on successive picks in order to weave a pattern. e 3 BASIC WEAVES There are three basic weaves, namely :
24、 plain weave, twill weave, and sateen weave, defined as follows. 3.1 plain weave : A weave in which each weft thread passes alternately over and under a warp thread, and each warp thread passes alternately over and under a weft thread. FIGURE 1 - Plain weavo 3.2 twill weave : A weave having a weave
25、repeat of at least three weft threads and which produces twill lines. FIGURE 2a - Weft-faced “2 twill weave FIGURE 2b - Warpfaced “2“ twill weave FIGURE 3a - Weft-fwd “S FIGURE 3b - Warp-faced “S“ twill weave twill wuve 3.3 sateen weave: A weave having a weave repeat of at least five weft threads an
26、d five warp threads in which each end interlaces once only and the step number is greater than one. It should be noted that the number of threads in a weave repeat and the step number may not have a common divisor. FIGURE 4a - Sateen wuvc PIGURE 4b - Sain weave (weft faced) (warp fadJ, FIGURE 5a - Sateen weave FIGURE 5b - Satin wewe (weft faced) (warp facdd) CAN/CGSB-4.175-M91 Part 3 2 Copyright Canadian General Standards Board Provided by IHS under license with CGSBNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-
