1、June 2015 Translation by DIN-Sprachendienst.English price group 10No part of this translation may be reproduced without prior permission ofDIN Deutsches Institut fr Normung e. V., Berlin. Beuth Verlag GmbH, 10772 Berlin, Germany,has the exclusive right of sale for German Standards (DIN-Normen).ICS 9
2、7.220.40!%CID“2323833www.din.deDDIN EN 13089Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools Safety requirements and test methods;English version EN 13089:2011+A1:2015,English translation of DIN EN 13089:2015-06Bergsteigerausrstung Eisgerte Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren;Englische Fassung EN
3、 13089:2011+A1:2015,Englische bersetzung von DIN EN 13089:2015-06quipement dalpinisme et descalade Outils glace Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai;Version anglaise EN 13089:2011+A1:2015,Traduction anglaise de DIN EN 13089:2015-06SupersedesDIN EN 13089:2011-05www.beuth.deDocument comprises 16 page
4、sIn case of doubt, the German-language original shall be considered authoritative.05.15DIN EN 13089:2015-06 2 A comma is used as the decimal marker. Start of application The start of application of this standard is 2015-06-01. National foreword This standard includes safety requirements within the m
5、eaning of the Produktsicherheitsgesetz (ProdSG) (German Product Safety Act). This document (EN 13089:2011+A1:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, Working Group WG 5 “Mountaineering and climbing equipment” (Sec
6、retariat: DIN, Germany). The responsible German body involved in its preparation was the DIN-Normenausschuss Sport- und Freizeitgert (DIN Standards Committee Sports Equipment), Working Committee NA 112-04-05 AA Bergsteigerausrstung. Where this standard has been identified by the Ausschuss fr Produkt
7、sicherheit (German Committee for Product Safety) and reference to it has been published in the Gemeinsames Ministerialblatt (German Joint Ministerial Gazette) by the Bundesanstalt fr Arbeitsschutz und Arbeitsmedizin (BAuA) (German Federal Institute for Occupational Safety and Health), it is to be pr
8、esumed that ice-tools which comply with this standard fulfil the relevant health and safety requirements. Amendments This standard differs from DIN EN 13089:2011-05 as follows: a) Clause 6 “Marking” has been rendered more precise for the different categories of picks; b) Clause 7 “Information to be
9、supplied by the manufacturer” has been extended to include a new item c) concerning the meaning of markings on the product. Previous editions DIN 7945: 1982-07, 1985-01 DIN EN 13089: 1999-09, 2011-05 EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 13089:2011+A1 April 2015 ICS 97.220.40 Supersed
10、es EN 13089:2011English Version Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Outils glace - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Eisgerte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European St
11、andard was approved by CEN on 5 February 2011 and includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 19 March 2015. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration
12、. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by t
13、ranslation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Fi
14、nland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZA
15、TION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EEN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E)
16、2 Contents Page Foreword 3 Introduction .4 1 Scope 5 2 Normative references 5 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Safety requirements 6 4.1 Edges 6 4.2 Shaft strength .6 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY .6 4.4 Strength in the load direction XX .6 4.5 Pick strength 7 5 Test methods 7 5.1 Preparation of
17、 test samples 7 5.2 Apparatus .7 5.3 Procedure .7 5.3.1 Test sample 7 5.3.2 Edges 8 5.3.3 Shaft strength .8 5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY .9 5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX .9 5.3.6 Pick strength . 10 6 Marking 11 7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12 Annex A (infor
18、mative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 14 DIN EN 13089:2015-06 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 13089:2011+A1:2015) has been prepared by Te
19、chnical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October
20、2015, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by October 2015. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rig
21、hts. This document supersedes !EN 13089:2011“. This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 2015-03-19. The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !“. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commissio
22、n and the Eu-ropean Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following signif
23、icant changes have been made: a) an editorial revision has been carried on; b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls; c) there is a new classification of ice-tools; d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted; e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised; f) Subclause 5.3.7
24、 was deleted; g) there is an additional marking. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, F
25、ormer Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. DIN EN 13089:2015-06 EN 13089:2011+A1:
26、2015 (E) 4 Introduction This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations“ dAlpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. DIN EN 13089:2015-06
27、EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for t
28、he application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the
29、purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 ice-tool hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick NOTE See Figure 1. 3.2 type 1 ice-tool ice-
30、tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.3 type 2 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice 3.4 type 1 pick pick intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.5 type 2 pick pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/o
31、r ice DIN EN 13089:2015-06 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 6 Key 1 Shaft of the ice-tool 2 Pick of the ice-tool Figure 1 Main parts of an ice-tool 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Edges All edges of the ice-tool with which the users hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The shaft of the ice tool
32、has to be free of sharp edges. 4.2 Shaft strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated fKvalue. 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY When tested in the lo
33、ad direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose. 4.4 Strength in the load direction XX When tested in the load direction XX (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.5, a) the shaft shall not break; b)
34、no component part of the test sample shall work loose; DIN EN 13089:2015-06 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 7 c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 10 mm after removal of the load. Key 1 Pick 2 Shaft XX/YY Load directions Figure 2 Load directions XX and YY 4
35、.5 Pick strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.6, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose; c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force shall not exceed 70 mm or the calculat-ed fKvalue after removal of the force. 5 T
36、est methods 5.1 Preparation of test samples For the strength tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 the test samples shall be conditioned for at least 1 h at ( 30 5) C. The tests shall be carried out at (23 5) C. Each test shall begin within 3 min from removal from conditioning. 5.2 Apparatus For the tests 5.3.3 to 5
37、.3.6 use a tape in accordance with EN 565 with a width of (15 2) mm. 5.3 Procedure 5.3.1 Test sample Carry out each test on a test sample not previously subjected to any load. DIN EN 13089:2015-06 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 8 5.3.2 Edges Check by visual and tactile examination that the requirements o
38、f 4.1 are met. 5.3.3 Shaft strength Support the shaft horizontally and load it in the direction XX as shown in Figure 3. Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 Tape Figure 3 Testing of shaft strength If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange the tapes as shown in Figure 3 with the load applied at the mid len
39、gth of the ice-tool. Apply a force of F = (2 500 +1250) N without shock and maintain for (60 5) s. If the ice tool is not long enough, reduce the 250 mm to “lk“. lkshall be as long as possible in reducing steps of 10 mm. Then calculate the force Fkto be applied as follows: Fk= F 250/lk(1) Calculate
40、the maximum permissible permanent deformation fkin mm as follows: fk= 3 (lk/250)2(2) where lkis the distance in mm from the middle of the shaft to the middle of the outer tapes, being positioned at the ends of the shaft. During the test, according to the shape of the shaft, the ice-tool may turn. If
41、 so, carry out the test in the stable position attained after rotation. For a straight shaft, rotation shall be prevented. If the ice-tool is fitted with a telescopic shaft, carry out the test at the length stated in the manufacturers instructions for use as an anchor point for belaying in snow. DIN
42、 EN 13089:2015-06 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 9 Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force. 5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY Support and load the test samples as shown in Figure 4. Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 Tape a Point K Figure 4 Testing of strength in the
43、 load direction YY If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange a tape as shown in Figure 4 with the force applied at 500 mm from point K in the direction YY. Apply a force of: F = (+300600 ) N for type 1 ice-tool, F = (+450900 ) N for type 2 ice-tool, without shock and maintain for (60 5) s. If the ice-
44、tool is not long enough reduce the 500 mm to lk. Then calculate the force Fkto be applied as follows: Fk= F 500/lk(3) where lkis the distance in mm from point K to the middle of the tape, being positioned at the end of the shaft. Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the f
45、orce and determine by manual inspection if any component of the ice tool worked loose. 5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX Support the test sample by means of a tape loop and a rounded stop as shown in Figure 5, so that the ice-tool pick lies normal to the direction of the applied force. Ensure
46、that rotation of the test sample is prevented. DIN EN 13089:2015-06 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 10 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 Tape loop of 50 mm width 2 Tape Figure 5 Testing of the strength in the load direction XX The line of application of the force shall be at (100 +20) mm from the nearest ed
47、ge of the supporting tape (see Figure 5). Apply a force of: F = (+12502500 ) N for type 1 ice-tools, F = (+20004000 ) N for type 2 ice-tools, without shock and maintain for (60 5) s. Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force and determine by manual inspection if any
48、component of the ice tool worked loose. 5.3.6 Pick strength Clamp the test sample between two vice jaws with a hardness greater than that of the test sample, with an edge radius of (2 0,1) mm and a depth of (25 0,2) mm as shown in Figure 6. If the pick is not flat in cross-section, the manufacturer
49、may provide clamps, provided these clamps do not artificially increase the apparent strength of the pick. Set the shaft such that a line drawn between the mid-points of the ends of the shaft is parallel to the upper edges of the vice jaws. Apply without shock a moment of: T = (+2,1042 ) Nm for type 1 pick, T = (+3060 ) Nm for type 2 pick, DIN EN 13089:2015-06 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 11 on a test sample with a lever length of (+30330 ) mm and maintain for (60 5) s. If a lever of length 330 mm is not ac
