1、July 2014 Translation by DIN-Sprachendienst.English price group 12No part of this translation may be reproduced without prior permission ofDIN Deutsches Institut fr Normung e. V., Berlin. Beuth Verlag GmbH, 10772 Berlin, Germany,has the exclusive right of sale for German Standards (DIN-Normen).ICS 5
2、9.060.10!%2w“2158491www.din.deDDIN EN 16315Textiles Silk woven fabrics for womenswear, silk squares, scarves and ties Requirements and test methods;English version EN 16315:2014,English translation of DIN EN 16315:2014-07Textilien und textile Erzeugnisse Gewebe aus Seide fr Damenbekleidung, Seidentc
3、her, Schals und Krawatten Anforderungen und Prfverfahren;Englische Fassung EN 16315:2014,Englische bersetzung von DIN EN 16315:2014-07Textiles Tissus en soie destins aux vtements fminins, foulards, charpes et cravates Exigences et mthodes dessai;Version anglaise EN 16315:2014,Traduction anglaise de
4、DIN EN 16315:2014-07www.beuth.deDocument comprises 20 pagesIn case of doubt, the German-language original shall be considered authoritative.05.14DIN EN 16315:2014-07 2 A comma is used as the decimal marker. National foreword This document (EN 16315:2014) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/
5、TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” (Secretariat: BSI, United Kingdom). The responsible German body involved in its preparation was the Normenausschuss Textil und Textilmaschinen (Textiles and Textile Machinery Standards Committee), Working Committee NA 106-01-02 AA Textilien und Bekleidung Kennz
6、eichnung, Anforderungen und Prfverfahren. EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 16315 March 2014 ICS 59.060.10 English Version Textiles - Silk woven fabrics for womenswear, silk squares, scarves and ties - Requirements and test methods Textiles - Tissus en soie destins aux vtements fm
7、inins, foulards, charpes et cravates - Exigences et mthodes dessai Textilien und textile Erzeugnisse - Gewebe aus Seide fr Damenbekleidung, Seidentcher, Schals und Krawatten - Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 6 February 2014. CEN members are bound to compl
8、y with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC
9、Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the sam
10、e status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg,
11、 Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 201
12、4 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 16315:2014 EEN 16315:2014 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 1 Scope 4 2 Normative references 4 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Sampling .6 5 Requirements and test methods for silk fabrics
13、 6 6 Specifications for made up articles: silk square, scarves and ties . 12 7 Information provided by the silk fabric producer 12 Annex A (informative) Denominations 13 Annex B (normative) Determination of dimensional change of textile fabrics due to relaxation when steamed on steam pressing machin
14、es 14 Bibliography . 18 DIN EN 16315:2014-07 EN 16315:2014 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 16315:2014) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products”, the secretariat of which is held by BSI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standar
15、d, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by September 2014 and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by September 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights
16、. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyp
17、rus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the Unite
18、d Kingdom. DIN EN 16315:2014-07 EN 16315:2014 (E) 4 1 Scope This European Standard specifies requirements for 100 % silk woven fabrics for womenswear, and for silk squares, scarves and ties for men and women, with the test methods for their evaluation. 2 Normative references The following documents,
19、 in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 1049-2, Textiles Woven fabri
20、cs Construction Methods of analysis Part 2: Determination of number of threads per unit length (ISO 7211-2:1984 modified) EN 1773, Textiles Fabrics Determination of width and length EN 12127, Textiles Fabrics Determination of mass per unit area using small samples EN ISO 105-B02, Textiles Tests for
21、colour fastness Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test (ISO 105-B02:2013) EN ISO 105-C06, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part C06: Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering (ISO 105-C06:2010) EN ISO 105-D01, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part D
22、01: Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent (ISO 105-D01:2010) EN ISO 105-E04, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part E04: Colour fastness to perspiration (ISO 105-E04:2013) EN ISO 105-J03, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part J03: Calculation of colour differences (ISO 1
23、05-J03:2009) EN ISO 105-X11, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part X11: Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11:1994) EN ISO 105-X12, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part X12: Color fastness to rubbing (ISO 105-X12:2001) EN ISO 139, Textiles Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testin
24、g (ISO 139:2005) EN ISO 3175-1, Textiles Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments Part 1: Assessment of performance after cleaning and finishing (ISO 3175-1:2010) EN ISO 3175-2, Textiles Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments Part 2: Proc
25、edure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using tetrachloroethene (ISO 3175-2:2010) EN ISO 3175-3, Textiles Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments Part 3: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using hydrocarbon solvent (ISO 3175
26、-3:2003) EN ISO 3175-4, Textiles Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments Part 4: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using simulated wetcleaning (ISO 3175-4:2003) EN ISO 3759, Textiles Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and
27、 garments in tests for determination of dimensional change (ISO 3759:2011) DIN EN 16315:2014-07 EN 16315:2014 (E) 5 EN ISO 5077, Textiles Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying (ISO 5077:2007) EN ISO 6330, Textiles Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (ISO 63
28、30:2012) EN ISO 13015, Woven fabrics Distortion Determination of skew and bow (ISO 13015:2013) EN ISO 13934-1, Textiles Tensile properties of fabrics Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method (ISO 13934-1:2013) EN ISO 13936-1, Textiles Determinatio
29、n of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics Part 1: Fixed seam opening method (ISO 13936-1:2004) EN ISO 13937-1, Textiles Tear properties of fabrics Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf) (ISO 13937-1:2000) ISO 1144, Textiles Universal sy
30、stem for designating linear density (Tex System) ISO 7211-1, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 1: Methods for the presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting ISO 7211-4, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 4: Determi
31、nation of twist in yarn removed from fabric ISO 7211-5, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 5: Determination of linear density of yarn removed from fabric 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 silk square se
32、wn square shaped article of silk fabric 3.2 scarf sewn rectangular or triangular shaped article of silk fabric 3.3 tie sewn long narrow article of silk fabric 3.4 length of piece distance between piece-ends along the piece of fabric 3.5 total fabric width distance from the outermost yarn of a piece
33、on one edge to the outermost yarn on the other edge, measured perpendicular to the warp direction SOURCE: EN 1773 3.6 usable fabric width distance from the outermost yarn of the piece on one edge to the outermost yarn on the other edge excluding the selvedges DIN EN 16315:2014-07 EN 16315:2014 (E) 6
34、 Note 1 to entry: Selvedges may be a woven selvadges, may be made with gauze, may include marks left by any finishing apparatus e.g. stenter pin marks. 3.7 pattern size regularity evenness of the distances, in warp and weft directions, between repeated patterns 3.8 repeated pattern periodical design
35、 made by printing, dyeing or weaving, in warp and weft directions 3.9 allover yarn dyed- or printed fabric with continuous pattern 3.10 diagonal yarn-dyed or printed fabric with 45 pattern 3.11 geometric pattern type of printing or weave pattern with geometric design 3.12 edging seaming the edges of
36、 silk squares and scarves 3.13 hand-sewn seam made by hand 3.14 colour reference fabric fabric used as reference for colour reproducibility 4 Sampling From each commercial or production lot, take out laboratory samples of a size suitable for the tests to be done from three pieces of fabric or lots o
37、f made up articles in a random manner. If the lot consists of fewer than three pieces, samples will be taken from each piece of fabric. Samples shall not present any alterations or visible defects, such as holes, tears, stains, differences in colour. Moreover, samples shall be representative of all
38、colours/patterns in case of colour fastness tests. 5 Requirements and test methods for silk fabrics 5.1 General The requirements specified in this European Standard concern properties that can be evaluated by laboratory tests or sensorial (visual) assessment of the fabric or are defined by tolerance
39、s allowed. The properties and relevant test methods considered are as follows: structural characteristics (5.2); physico-mechanical characteristics (5.3); DIN EN 16315:2014-07 EN 16315:2014 (E) 7 colour fastness (5.4); colour conformity (5.5); 5.2 Structural characteristics 5.2.1 Fabric construction
40、 Fabric construction testing shall be carried out according to ISO 7211-1. The fabric construction shall correspond to that specified in the contract. 5.2.2 Mass per unit area Mass per unit area shall be carried out according to EN 12127. In any case, the tolerance allowed on the declared value is 5
41、 % The articles falling within the scope of this standard can be classified into following categories as given in Table 1: Table 1 Mass per unit area Category Womenswear Silk square and scarves Ties A mass 40 g/m2mass 40 g/m250 40 g/m2mass 100 g/m2C 80 160 g/m2- - NOTE Usual commercial denomination
42、of each category is given in Table A.1. 5.2.3 Width and length of piece 5.2.3.1 Length of piece The length of piece shall be carried out according to EN 1773. The tolerance allowed on the declared length of each piece is 2 % 5.2.3.2 Fabric width and usable fabric width Fabric width shall be carried
43、out according to EN 1773. The tolerance allowed on the declared total or usable fabric width is -1 %; + 2 %. If the declared width corresponds to the minimum guaranteed width, no negative tolerance is allowed on the agreed value. 5.2.3.3 Pattern size regularity Pattern size regularity shall be carri
44、ed out according to EN 1773. The tolerances allowed on the pattern dimensions, as declared, are as follows: a) Yarn-dyed fabrics DIN EN 16315:2014-07 EN 16315:2014 (E) 8 Allover 4 % Diagonal (45) and repeated patterns 2 % b) Printed fabrics Allover 3 % Diagonal (45) and repeated patterns 2 % 5.2.4 T
45、hreads per unit length Thread density shall be carried out according to EN 1049-2. The tolerance allowed on the declared value, expressed as threads/cm in warp and weft directions, is 2 % with a minimum of one thread/cm. 5.2.5 Linear density and twist of yarn removed from fabric Linear density and t
46、wist of yarn removed from the fabric shall be carried out according to ISO 7211-4 and ISO 7211-5. The results of the measurement of linear density and twist shall be related to the corresponding values for the same fabric in the raw state. The tolerance allowed on the declared nominal yarn linear de
47、nsity (related to the raw fabric) on an average basis is 7 % for a yarn linear density between 22,2 and 24,4 dtex (corresponding to 20-22 deniers as defined in ISO 1144). The tolerances allowed on declared nominal twist values are shown in Table 2: Table 2 Twist tolerances Twist range Tolerance allo
48、wed (*) Twist 150 10 turns/m or 15 % 150 700 50 turns/m or 5 % (*) The higher tolerance between absolute and relative values shall be applied. NOTE Usual commercial yarn denominations of each category are given in Table A.2. 5.3 Physical characteristics 5.3.1 Tensile properties maximum force (strip
49、method) Tensile properties shall be carried out according to EN ISO 13934-1. Depending on the mass per unit area of the fabric, as given in Table 1, the minimum acceptable values are given in Table 3: DIN EN 16315:2014-07 EN 16315:2014 (E) 9 Table 3 Tensile properties Category Womenswear Silk square and scarves Ties A 150 N 100 N 250 N B 250 N 200 N 300 N C 300 N - - D 450 N - - 5.3.2 Tear
