1、June 2015Translation by DIN-Sprachendienst.English price group 10No part of this translation may be reproduced without prior permission ofDIN Deutsches Institut fr Normung e. V., Berlin. Beuth Verlag GmbH, 10772 Berlin, Germany,has the exclusive right of sale for German Standards (DIN-Normen).ICS 59
2、.080.30!%CDx“2323385www.din.deDDIN EN ISO 18103Superfine woven wool fabric labelling Requirements for Super S code definition (ISO 18103:2015);English version EN ISO 18103:2015,English translation of DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06Kennzeichnung von Gewebe aus superfeiner Wolle Anforderungen an die Definiti
3、on fr den Super S-Code (ISO 18103:2015);Englische Fassung EN ISO 18103:2015,Englische bersetzung von DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06tiquetage des toffes tisses de laine superfine Exigences de dfinition de la codification Super S (ISO 18103:2015);Version anglaise EN ISO 18103:2015,Traduction anglaise de DIN
4、 EN ISO 18103:2015-06www.beuth.deIn case of doubt, the German-language original shall be considered authoritative.Document comprises 14 pages05.15 DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06 2 A comma is used as the decimal marker. National foreword This document (EN ISO 18103:2015) has been prepared by Technical Comm
5、ittee ISO/TC 38 “Textiles” in collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” (Secretariat: BSI, United Kingdom). The responsible German body involved in its preparation was the DIN-Normenausschuss Textil und Textil-maschinen (DIN Standards Committee Textiles and Te
6、xtile Machinery), Working Committee NA 106-01-02 AA Textilien und Bekleidung Kennzeichnung, Anforderungen und Prfverfahren; SpA zu CEN/TC 248/WG 10, WG 20, WG 33 und ISO/TC 133. EN ISO 18103March 2015 ICS 59.080.30 Supersedes CWA 16336:2011English Version Superfine woven wool fabric labelling - Requ
7、irements for Super S code definition (ISO 18103:2015) Etiquetage des toffes tisses de laine superfine -Exigences de dfinition de la codification Super S(ISO 18103:2015)Kennzeichnung von Gewebe aus superfeiner Wolle -Anforderungen an die Definition fr den Super S-Code(ISO 18103:2015)This European Sta
8、ndard was approved by CEN on 7 February 2015. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concernin
9、g such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into it
10、s own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germa
11、ny, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey andUnited Kingdom. CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015 CEN All rights of exploi
12、tation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN ISO 18103:2015 EEUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATIONCOMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATIONEUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNGEUROPEAN STANDARDNORME EUROPENNEEUROPISCHE NORMContents Page Foreword . 3 Introduction . 4 1
13、Scope . 5 2 Normative references. 5 3 Terms and definitions 5 4 “Super S” labelling code requirements . 5 5 Test method for the determination of mean fibre diameter . 6 5.1 Woven fabric sampling 6 5.2 Preparation of the test specimen (snippets) . 7 5.3 Test method 7 5.4 Precision data . 7 Annex A (i
14、nformative) Example of labelling information to be provided by suppliers of fabric and garments 8 Annex B (informative) Precision data 9 Bibliography 12 2DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06 EN ISO 18103:2015 (E) Foreword This document (EN ISO 18103:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38 Texti
15、les in collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” the secretariat of which is held by BSI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by September 2015, an
16、d conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by September 2015. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. T
17、his document supersedes CWA 16336:2011. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yug
18、oslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. Endorsement notice The text of ISO 18103:2015 h
19、as been approved by CEN as EN ISO 18103:2015 without any modification. “ ”3DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06EN ISO 18103:2015 (E)IntroductionThis International Standard has been developed from a CEN Workshop Agreement, CWA 16336 published in September 2011,3which was itself based on the International Wool Te
20、xtile Organization Fabric Labelling Code of Practice: Quality Definitions Relating to “Super S”.7The “Super S” classification for the fineness of wool in woven fabrics and garments goes back to the traditional English wool grading system as used by the trade in Bradford, England. The foundations of
21、this system can be described as follows: a yarn, to be even and strong enough for weaving, must contain a certain minimum number of fibres in its cross section. Therefore, with coarse wool fibres it is possible to obtain only coarse yarns, while with the fine ones very thin yarns can be spun. This c
22、riterion is the basis of the wool fineness classification. If wool is classified as Super 120s”, for example, it means that 1 pound of fibre will produce 120 hanks of yarn, each of which is 560 yards long. With a coarser wool the yarn would be thicker and the number of hanks lower (for instance 80),
23、 with a still finer wool on the contrary the hanks would be more numerous (for instance 150). At the beginning of this century, the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) officially and precisely codified the fineness classes by fixing for each one of them a maximum limit in microns of mean
24、fibre diameter.As wool is processed, the diameter of the original fibre used in producing a woven fabric may change due to structural modification of the fibre and the possible effects of chemicals used during processing, etc. Consequently, the mean fibre diameter of the fibre extracted from the fab
25、ric can be different from the mean fibre diameter of the fibre used to spin the yarn used in the fabric.Wool weavers supply their clients with statements concerning the fineness and, on request, with “Super S” label to be sewn inside garments made with the “Super S” cloth. This is a voluntary label,
26、 but it has to correspond with the code of practice. The fine wool is very expensive, but with it light, soft fabrics of high wearability and elegance can be produced. A false classification is an act of unfair competition towards the honest producers and an unfair and deceptive practice to consumer
27、s. The whole chain of production for wool textiles from the grower through to the garment manufacturer will benefit from a proper understanding and application of the “Super S” code. In addition, retailers and consumers will be protected from fraud or misunderstandings which originate from ignorance
28、 of the classification system.NOTE 1 pound is equivalent to 0,453 kg; 1 yard is equivalent to 0,914 m.4DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06 EN ISO 18103:2015 (E) 1 ScopeThis International Standard defines the requirements of the “Super S” labelling code for finished woven fabric made from pure virgin wool and t
29、he test method to determine this.2 Normative referencesThe following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenc
30、ed document (including any amendments) applies. ISO 137, Wool Determination of fibre diameter Projection microscope method3 Terms and definitionsFor the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.3.1woolfibre from sheeps or lambs fleeces (Ovis aries)Note 1 to entry: Althoug
31、h legislation in the European Union and in some other countries provides that the term “wool” may be used to indicate a mixture of fibres from sheeps or lambs fleeces and the hairs of other animals such as alpaca, llama, camel, kashmir goat, angora goat, angora rabbit, vicuna, yak, guanaco, cashgora
32、 goat, beaver, and otter, the use of the term “wool” in the context of “Super S” labelling is restricted to fibres from sheeps or lambs fleeces only.3.2pure virgin wool fabricwoven fabric produced wholly from shorn wool which has not previously been spun into yarn or felted nor previously incorporat
33、ed into a finished product4 “Super S” labelling code requirementsIn the labelling of fabrics, the word Super (as in Super 100s for example) can only be used to describe woven fabrics made from pure virgin wool, and the “Super S” value is determined by, and shall not exceed the mean wool fibre diamet
34、er values indicated in Table 1.For an explanation of the origin of the “Super S” classification, see Introduction (2nd paragraph).5DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06EN ISO 18103:2015 (E)Table 1 “Super S” mean wool fibre diameter values“Super S” value Maximum mean fibre diameteraSuper 80s 19,50 m (+0,25 m tole
35、rance)Super 90s 19,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 100s 18,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 110s 18,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 120s 17,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 130s 17,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 140s 16,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 150s 16,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 160s 15,50 m (+0,25 m t
36、olerance)Super 170s 15,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 180s 14,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 190s 14,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 200s 13,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 210s 13,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 220s 12,50 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 230s 12,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)Super 240s 11,50 m (+0,25
37、 m tolerance)Super 250s 11,00 m (+0,25 m tolerance)aThe +0,25 m is the positive tolerance which has been established as inherent in the test method. The total tolerance of results is (+) or () 0,5 m, but since the specification is concerned only with the maximum permissible diameter, the negative to
38、lerance of 0,25 m is not required.Determination of mean fibre diameter values shall be carried out according to the test method indicated in Clause 5.The inclusion of up to 5 % in weight of non-wool yarn for decorative effects is permitted.NOTE It is appreciated that the tolerance for non-wool decor
39、ative fibres provided for in the legislation of the European Union and some other countries is greater than 5 %. However, in the context of “Super S” labelling it is felt that a tolerance of 5 % of non-wool yarn is more appropriate.5 Test method for the determination of mean fibre diameter5.1 Woven
40、fabric samplingThe sampling is based on the selection of fabric pieces cut from either fabric or a garment. The samples shall be representative of the whole fabric or garment.Take a minimum of three separate squares, each to be composed of different warp threads and weft threads, the size, with a to
41、lerance of 0,02 cm, depending on the mass per unit area of the fabric and in proportion to both thread type (colour, count) and warp/weft respective masses.The size of each square shall be determined such that whole threads from the square fully pack the slot of the fibre microtome (as described in
42、ISO 137).NOTE The size could be between 3 cm 3 cm and 5 cm 5 cm.6DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06 EN ISO 18103:2015 (E) Determination of mean fibre diameter values shall be carried out according to ISO 137 and the sampling shall be done as described here below.5.2 Preparation of the test specimen (snippets)
43、The fabric samples shall be trimmed square to the warp and weft.Unravel whole warp and weft threads from one fabric sample.The snippet subsamples (test specimen) shall be obtained from whole unravelled warp and weft threads which have to be inserted in the fibre microtome (as described in ISO 137).T
44、he snippets should be cut at approximately 0,4 mm length, using the appropriate fibre pusher (as described in ISO 137) and place on a slide.Repeat the preparation of the snippets on other slides for the other fabric samples.5.3 Test methodThe determination of mean fibre diameter values shall be carr
45、ied out according to ISO 137.NOTE ISO 137 is a test method equivalent to IWTO-8.The final result is calculated as the overall mean value of the mean value of each slide.5.4 Precision dataPrecision data are given in Annex B.7DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06EN ISO 18103:2015 (E)Annex A (informative) Example o
46、f labelling information to be provided by suppliers of fabric and garmentsIn order to promote a better understanding of the “Super S” descriptions throughout the supply chain and at consumer level, suppliers of fabric and garments described or labelled in accordance with this International Standard
47、are recommended to provide the following information which should be maintained available on request.a) name and address of manufacturer or supplier;b) description of fabric in accordance with the provisions of this International Standard;c) reference to this International Standard, i.e. ISO 18103.8
48、DIN EN ISO 18103:2015-06 EN ISO 18103:2015 (E) Annex B (informative) Precision dataB.1 GeneralThe Interwoollabs Membership was surveyed in 2012 regarding potential participation in a round trial using one or more of the available test methods (including IWTO-8-11).NOTE The International Association
49、of Wool Textile Laboratories (INTERWOOLLABS), which was set up in June 1969, aims are to develop co-operation between the Member laboratories, with a view to ensuring the most correct and uniform application of approved testing and sampling methods as set out by the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) and to ensure that Member laboratories obtain accurate test results which have a high level of precision, in their
