1、I INCHPOUND I A-A-55086A MAY 4,2000 SUPERSEDING October 26, 1992 A-A-55086 COMMERCIAL ITEM DESCRIPTION TROUSERS, MENS, WORKING BLUE, POLYESTERKOTTON (CG) The General Services Administration has authorized the use of this commercial item description as a replacement for A-A-55086 for all Federal agen
2、cies. 1. SCOPE. This commercial item description covers the requirements for mens trousers used by male military personnel of the Coast Guard as part of the undress and working blue uniform. 2. -CLASSIFICATION. The trousers shall be one type only, and shall be available in the following sizes: Sizes
3、. 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58 Lengths. Short, Regular, Long, X-Long 3. SALIENT CHARACTERISTICS. 3.1 Description. The trousers shall be a single needle construction except the seat seam shall be made with a double needle seat seamer, All seams shall be overedged and
4、 pressed open. The bottoms shall be unhemmed and overedged. The waistband shall finish 1-1/2 ( _+ US) inches wide utilizing a commercial type lining assembly and a hook and eye closure. The trouser shall have seven (7) belt loops for sizes up to and including size 36, and eight (8) for size 38 and B
5、eneficial comments, recommendations, additions, deletions, clarifications, etc. and any data which may improve this document should be sent to: Defense Supply Center Philadelphia, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, ATTN: DPSC-CRFD, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 6D, Philadelphia, PA 191 11- 5096. AMSC
6、 N/A FSC 8405 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55086A above (see figure 1); and shall measure 5/8 to 3/4 inches wide with a 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 inch opening (see figure 2). There shall be one belt loop on each front in accordance with notches on pattern, one on each side seam, one centered on
7、 each back, and one at center back aligned with seat seam. The extra belt loop for sizes 38 and above shall be on the right front, 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 inches from right fly joining seam. The trouser shall have a “7 stitched front slide fastener fly; two (2) straight side pockets with one row 114 inch top
8、stitching and shall have a 6 to 6-112 inch opening. The trouser shall have two (2) double welt hip pockets and shall measure 5-114 c+ US) inches wide and 6-1/4 c+ 1/4) inches in depth with a button and buttonhole on left pocket. The trouser shall be pressed smooth at the top including the fly and th
9、e legs shall be creased in the center with the seam matching at the bottom and in the crotch. 3.2 MATERIAL,. 3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be a 65% polyester/35% cotton twill in accordance with CG-CDTO-T-0800. The color shall be Blue 3362. 3.2.2 Pocketing and lining. The cloth for t
10、he pockets, waistband lining, and right fly lining shall be polyester, polyester/cotton, or polyester/rayon twill. The color shall be Black. The cloth shall have a minimum weight of 4.3 odsq yd and a minimum breaking strength of 72 pounds (warp) and 55 pounds (filling) when tested as specified in AS
11、TM-D-5034. 3.2.3 Interlining. The material for interlining waistbands shall be a polyester or polyester/cellulose blend non-woven having a minimum weight of 3.0 odsq yd and be equivalent to commercial industry standards. 3.2.4 Thread. The thread shall be a cotton-covered polyester thread conforming
12、to ticket number 50 or 70,2 or 3-ply for seaming and stitching, ticket number 50 for bartacks and buttonholes, and ticket number 16 or 24 for button sewing. The color shall be black. The thread shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering and light when tested in accordance to AATCC 61, Test 3A and
13、 AATCC 16 Option A, respectively. 3.2.5 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing the buttonholes shall conform to Type I or II, size No 8. The color shall be black. The gimp shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering and light when tested to AATCC 61, Test 3A and AATCC 16 Option A, respectively. 3.2.6 Butt
14、on. The button for the left hip pocket shall be flat, 4 hole melamine plastic, 22-line. The color shall be Black BT, Cable No. 62001 with a glossy finish. 3.2.7 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be non-separating, non-reversible cam lock, size light medium, short tab pull. AU metal components
15、 of the slide fastener shall be brass and the semi-automatic pin lock cover and spring shall be stainless steel. A staple bottom stop is required. The color of the tape shall be Black G, Cable No. 66507. As an alternate, a continuous monofilament nylon or polyester coil chain with polyester or polye
16、stedcotton blend tape and 2 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55086A automatic lock may be used. The tape shall show “good” colorfastness to laundering and light when tested in accordance with AATCC 61, Test 3A and AATCC 16 Option A, respectively. 3.2.8 Hook and eye. The hook and eye for
17、the waistband shall be North and Judd (Hook flex H-49 and E-50), Universal Button Co. (Talon #7, #8 hook and #8 eye or #85 eye), Patwin Inc., (Slim-Slack with MB eye) or equal. The finish of both components shall be nickel plate. 3.3 Labels. Each trouser shall have a identification instruction label
18、 and shall be placed on the right pocket lining (facing wearer) stitched completely around label without stitching through the printing; and a size label and NSN shall be placed in waistband on right side above back pocket. The print characters shall be a minimum of 18-points (approximately 1/4 inch
19、) and the print shall be black showing “good” color fastness to laundering only when tested in accordance with AATCC 61, Test 3A. The inscriptions for the combination identification and instruction label are as follows. NAME: SIZE 34 Regular (Example) TROUSERS, MENS, WORKING BLUE (CG) FIBER CONTENT:
20、 65% POLYESTER 35% COTTON (Example) CONTRACT NO.: SP0100-000-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF MANFACTURER: (if other than contractor) NATIONAL STOCK NUMBER INSTRUCTION MACHINE WASH, WARM (120 F MAX) USE MILD SOAP OR DETERGENT DO NOT BLEACH OR STARCH TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM HEAT, REMOVE PROMPTLY
21、 If needed, touch up with iron - low setting An additional paper size label shall be tacked to the outside of the waistband near the right front pocket. The inscription for the size label shall be as follows: 34R (EXAMPLE) 8405-00-0000-0000 (EXAMPLE) 3.3.1 Labeltag. Each item shall be individually b
22、ar-coded with a paper tag for personal clothing items. The paper tag shall be standard bleached sulfate having a basis weight of 100 pounds. The paper used for the tags shall have a smooth finish to accept thermal transfer and direct printing. The tags shall have a hole and shall be attached to each
23、 item by a fastener, clearly legible and readable by a scanner. The bar coding element shall be a 13 digit national stock number (NSN). There shall be a 12 digit UPC bar code number assigned for all NSNs by the procurring activity. The initials UPC must 3 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A
24、-55086A appear beneath the code. The bar code for NSNs and UPC type shall be a medium to high code density and shall be located so that it is completely visible on the item when it is folded andor packaged as specified and so that it causes no damage to the item. 3.4 Seams and stitches. Seaming shal
25、l be consistent and exhibit a uniform appearance and shall conform to ASTM-D-6193 stitch and seam types. AU topstitching, and raise stitching shall be sewn with 12-14 stitches per inch with 301 stitch type. All other seams shall be sewn with 12-14 stitches per inch with 301 or 401 stitch type, excep
26、t that the back seam shall be sewn with 8-10 stitches per inch with a double needle seat seamer 1/32 to 1/64 gage with 401 stitch type. All overedge stitching shall be 6-8 stitches per inch. To maintain durability and functionality, bartacks 318 to 518 inch in length with approximately 27 stitches p
27、er inch are required at the reinforcement points, top and bottom of side pocket openings, at the ends of the welt pocket openings, bottom of fly, and belt loops. Buttonholes shall be eyelet end, taper bar, with ends securely tacked 314 to 718 inch length with 52-56 stitches per inch. AU material edg
28、es shall be clean finished. Edges shall be turned-in, turned-under, or serged. 3.5 Sizes and measurements. The finished measurements of the trouser shall conform to Table I. AU measurements and tolerance are expressed in inches, and shall be taken without pulling or stretching the trousers. TABLE I.
29、 Finished measurements Size 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 Tolerance waist (A) 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 - + 112 S 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 +1 - 112 Inseam B) R 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 34 +1 - 112 , L 36 36 36 36 36 3
30、6 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 +1 - 112 XL 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 38 +1 - 112 S 18- 114 18- 112 18-314 19 19-114 19-112 19-314 20 20- 114 20- 112 20-314 21 21-112 21-314 22 22- 114 - + 112 Bottom C) R 18- 114 18- 112 18-314 19 19-114 19-112 19-314 20 20- 114 20- 112 20-314 21
31、21-112 21-314 22 22- 114 - + 112 , L 18- 114 18- 112 18-314 19 19-114 19-112 19-314 20 20- 114 20- 112 20-314 21 21-112 21-314 22 22- 114 - + 112 XL 18- 114 18- 112 18-314 19 19-114 19-112 19-314 20 20- 114 20- 112 20-314 21 21-112 21-314 22 22- 114 - + 112 4 Licensed by Information Handling Service
32、sA-A-55086A (A) With slide fastener closed and waistband hooked, measure along top edge of waistband from folded edge to folded edge. Multiply by two (2). (B) Measure along inseam from crotch seam to (unhemmed) bottom edge of leg. (C) Measure across unhemmed bottom edge of leg. Multiply by two (2).
33、3.6 Patterns. The Government will furnish a set of standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use du
34、ring construction are allowed on working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements. The standard patterns provide a seam allowance of 3/8 inch for a
35、ll seams except for 1/2 inch allowance for the inseams, outseams, pocket facing and assembly, and joining the seat seam. In addition, the back seat seam allowance shall be 1-1/8 inches at the top tapered to 1/2 inch at the crotch. 3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the materi
36、als specified in accordance with the following pattern parts: Material Pattern parts cut parts Basic material Front 2 Back 2 Side pocket bearer 2 Side pocket facing 2 Hip pocket bearedfacing 4 Right fly 1 Left fly facing 1 Left fly interlining 1 Waistband 2 Pocketing and lining Side pocket Hip pocke
37、t Right fly lining 2 2 1 4. REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS. 4.1 Recycled, recovered, or environmentally preferable materials. Recycled, recovered or environmentally referable materials should be used to the maximum extent possible provided that the material meets or exceeds the operational and maintenance
38、requirements, and promotes economically advantageous life cycle costs. 5. PRODUCT CONFORMANCE PROVISIONS 5 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55086A 5.1 Product conformance. The products offered shall meet the salient characteristics of this commercial item description, conform to the prod
39、ucers own drawings, specifications, standards, and quality assurance practices, and be the same product that is offered for sale in the commercial market. The Government reserves the right to require proof of such conformance. 5.2 Visual examination. Each Trouser shall be examined for the defects li
40、sted below. 5.2.1 Defects. Any hole, cut or tear, or needle chew, burn; drill hole, multiple float, open place, knot dub, misweave, loose yarn, woven in waste, color not as specified; any variation between parts, poor dye penetration, or dyestreak. Any omitted or poor pressing, any double crease lin
41、e, any burn or scorch, gloss or impressions not removed, legs not pressed seam to seam. Any spot or stain, raw edges, open seams, thread ends not removed, loose or tight tension; any component not as specified, tight, twisted distorted, pleated, or full. Any component part or operation omitted. Butt
42、onhole omitted, not as specified type, not finished as specified, or misplaced. Button omitted, broken, defective, misplaced, not as specified, or insecurely sewn. Hook and eye damaged, not securely attached causing a bulge, twist, distortion, or pucker. Bartacks missing, insecure, misplaced, not se
43、rving intended purpose, or loose stitch tension. Width of waistband or waistband lining not as specified, lining exposed on outside, waistband puckered pleated, or excess fullness. Belt loops omitted, misplaced, not as specified width or length. Length of fly uneven at top, fly facing exposed beyond
44、 front edge, seam joining right fly to front exposed when fly is closed, left fly stitching irregular. Slide fastener not operable, stitching too close to edge of chain not permitting slider too pass freely, any cut, tear, or hole in slide fastener tape. Top of pocketing not securely or evenly inser
45、ted under waistband, pocketing caught in unrelated stitching, unfinished seam on pocketing, hip pocket welt varies in width, dart incomplete or not extending into pocket opening. Outlet or lining outlet at waistband omitted or less than specified amount. Any label missing, incorrect, or illegible; b
46、ar code label omitted or not readable by scanner; human-readable interpretation (HRI) omitted or illegible; bar code label not visible on folded, packaged item; bar code causes damage to the item; any items not packaged in accordance with the contract or order. 5.3 Acceptance criteria. Acceptance cr
47、iteria shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. 6. PACKAGING 6.1 Preservation, packing, and marking. The preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specified in the contract or purchase order. 7. NOTES 7.1 Source of Government documents. Copies of military and Federal documents a
48、re available from: Standardization Documents Order Desk Bldg. 4D 700 Robbins Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19 1 1 1-5094 6 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesA-A-55086A 7.2 Source of non-Government documents. AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) ASTM-D-5034- ASTM-D-6197 Breaking Force a
49、nd Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM), 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959.) AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) AATCC 16A Colorfastness to Light AATCC61 - Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated (Applications for copies should be addressed to American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P. O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215.) COLOR ASS
