1、I,COMMERCIAL ITEMCLOTH, MELTON WOOLP5!R.1A-A-55198 ,.-.17 FEBUAAY 1994IDESCRIPTION(MOTH PROOFED)The General Servic”es Administration has authorized the use ofthis Commercial Item Description in preference to F!IL-C-16290.Abstract. This Commercial Item Description covers two types ofmelton wool cloth
2、 with a (Moth -Proof ) finish. The cloth isintended for use in the manufacture of the Navymens and womensclothing.Classification. The melton Wool cloth shall be in the followingtypes:Type I - 16 ounce - Blue 3346Type II- 22 ounce - Blue 3346Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions)
3、 andany pertinent data which may be of use in improving thisdocument should be addressed to: Defense Personnel SupportCenter, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD,2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by usingthe Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form1426
4、) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.AMSC N/A FSC 8305IDISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release;distribution. is unlimited.Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-., -A-A-55198SalientCharacteristics .Material.wool
5、 The stock shall be fleece or both, not lower in grade than .-64s U.S standard when tested, as determined by the methods listed below. The use of noils, laps or any other woolmanufacturing by-products is prohibited. The wool shall bevisually examined for grade in scoured form, prior to dying,picking
6、, or carding b y comparison with the applicable U.S.standard. The examination for grade shall be performed on acomposite sample of 1 pound (0.45 KG) of scoured wool for each10,000 pounds (4500 Kg) or fraction thereof in the lot. Thecomposite sample shall be selected from not less than 10 percentof t
7、he bags/bales in the lot. The lot shall be unacceptable ifone or more composite samples fail to meet the requirements. Thesample unit shall be 1 yard(O.91,m) of undyed top.Yarns The wool stock shall be thoroughly scoured, blended,-carded,and evenly spun on the woolen system into singles yarn forboth
8、 warp and filling.Note: Selvage yarns: TO prevent edges of the cloth frombuilding up when rolled, the selvage yarns may be made of a finercouny than the body of the cloth. These yarns shall alsoconsists of wool fibers.Weave The weave for type I shall be a 2 up, 1 down right hand-twill and the weave
9、for type II shall be 3 up, ldowwcrowfootwhen testedPhvsical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to therequirements listed in table I.Table I Phvsical requirements “Characteristic Requirement TestMethodOunces per Liner Yards Al(Grams per Linerm-1.72m wide)Type Min. Max.I 16(448g) 17(476g)
10、ASTM D 3776II 22(616g) 24(672g) (Small Method)c.Yarns per inch Minimum2.54cm) Warp fillingTypeI 60 55 ASTM D 3775II 55 45?Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-55198Table I Phvsical requirementsCharacteristic Reqiurement TestMethodBreak
11、ing strengthin pounds(Neutons)TypeI11Shrinkage(percent)TypeI11Wool contentPHWet- dry cleaningPerspirationCrockingLaunderingYarn ply -WeaveWeightTypeIIIColorfastness:LightMinimumWarp filling58 4680 60MinimumWarp filling4.0 3.04.5 2.0Not less than 95.0 percent4.0 to 8.04.04.04.04.0.-ASTM.D.5034AATCC 9
12、9AATCC - 20AAATCC - 81AATCC - 132AATCC - 15AATCC.- 8AATCC.- 61VisualVisualASTM D 3776ASTM D 3776AATCC-16Using the formula below 16.5 to 23.5 AFUS are acceptable.asSFHS.l_/Based on 56 inch widthThe width of the cloth shall be as specified and shall be theminimum acceptable width inclusive of selvage
13、when fly shuttlelooms or c with tuck-in selvage looms are used. For all othershuttleless looms, the width measurement shall be between thelast warp yarn on each side excluding the protruding fringe(s).Moth?moofinq compoundSodium 5-chloro-2- r4-chlorohvhv+- (3-(3,4 dicholrophenv l-ureidolphenoxvl ben
14、zenesulfonate. The formulation containingsodium 5-choloro-2-4 choloro-2-3-(3, 4 dichlorophenyl)-urediophenoxy benzenesulfonate may be obtained under the trade name ofMitin F F High Concentrate from Ciba-Geigy Corp.,Dyestuffs andChemical Division, Swing Road, P.O Box 18300, Greensboro, NC3Provided by
15、 IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-A-A-5519827049, Or under the name of Intracide M from Crompton and KnowelsCorp., Dyes and Chemical Division. BOX 33188, 3001 North GrahamStreet, Charlotte, NC 28233.AATCC Fading Units = (4E ) (20)1.7 0.3 -Where (A
16、 E ) is thhe color difference in CIELAB units of colordifference. Only the stained on the wool fibers of the colortransfer cloth shall be ewaluated.Workmanship. After completion, the finished cloth shall bethourghly cleaned, and all loose thread , lint, and foreignmatter removed.product Demonstratio
17、n Model. When required, offerers shallsubmit samples of their intended production. The ProductDemonstration Model will consist of units independentlydeveloped. Product Demonstration Models will be analyzed andevaluated by the government. Evaluationcriteria and basis for award are contained in the so
18、licitation.Product Demonstration Models will be retained by the government.One (1) Product Demonstration Model approved by DPSC under theresultant contract will serve as a manufacturing standard for thecorresponding production items delivered under this contract.Offt fails to meet therequirements fo
19、r shade match or finish. The sample unit shall be “a 4 inch by 20 inch (10.2cm x50.8cm) swatch of the cloth. Asample unit shall be drawm from each roll in the lot. Examination for defect markinq (strina of defects) . Theexamination for defect marking shall be as specified in MIL-STD-655. .Roll exami
20、nation. During the yd. by yd. examination each rollin the sample shall be examined for defects listed below. Thelot shall be unacceptable if two or more of the defects arepresent in the sample:Back stamp missing, incorrect or illegible from either orboth ends bleed through occurring.Back stamping on
21、 the wrongLetters less than 1/2 inchNot labeled or ticketed inRegulations under the Wool5side.in height.accordance with the Rules andProducts Labeling Act.Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-l“”!”IA-A-55198Lenc?thexamination. During the y
22、ard- by- yard examination,eachroll in the sample shall be examined for length. Any lot found tobe less than the minimum length specified in the basic clothdocument or more than 2 yds. less than the length marked on theticket shall be scored as a defect. The lot shall beunacceptable if two or more ro
23、lls in the sample are defective inrespect to the length. The lot shall be unacceptable if the - .total of the actual length of the rolls in the sample is lessthan the total of the lengths marked on the roll tickets.Label / markinu. Each roll shall be labeled or ticketed forfiber content in accordanc
24、e with the Wool Products Labeling Act.Material The cloth shall be examined for the followingdefects: any hole, cut ,tear or open place; any smash, multiplefloats, jerked in filling; any slub or knot (to be scored onlywhen it exceeds three times the normal yarn size); any spot orstain; any crease or
25、wrinkle; any baggy,ridgytor any waveycloth;width more or less than specified (shall not be scoredunless it occurs for more than (4.6m) per roll; thread ends notremoved; not labeled in accordance with the Wool ProductsLabeling Act.Yard- bV- va rd -by vard examination. The yard-by-yard examinationshal
26、l be as specified in MIL-STD-655. The fabric quality shall begrade 10. Each roll shall be examined visually for shade matchandfinish, A roll shall be unacceptable if it fails to meetthe requirements for shade match or finish. The sample unitshall be a 4 inch by 20 inch (10.2 cm x50.8 cm) swatch of t
27、hecloth. A sample unit shall be drawn from each roll in the lot.Preservation, Packinq, and Markinq.Preservation, packing, and marking shall be as specification inthe contract or order.Source of Government Documents. Copies of Military and;Federaldocuments are available from:Standardization Documents
28、 Order DeskBldg. 4D700 Robbins AvenuePhiladelphia, PA 19111-50946Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-! .,”.A-A-55198Sources of Nonqovernment Documents.TECHNICAL MANUAL AMERICAN ASSOCIATIONAND COLORIST(Applic?.tionsfor copies shouldP.O. Bo
29、x 12215, Research Triangle-,., IOF TEXTILE CHEMISTSbe zddressed to AATCC,Park, N.C. 27709)?+iERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING MATERIALS(Applications for copies should be addressed to theAmerican Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 RaceStreet, Philadelphia, PA 19103.)Custodian:CoordinatingN?vy -NUUser Activity:Navy -NUCivil AgencyActivity:GSA - FSSPreparing Activity:DLA - CTProject No.8305-0476. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-
