1、MIL-S-217LLE 84 W 7797706 0383035 7 W C-43Y 34 , MIL-S-21711E 3 December 1982 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-21711D 5 October 1976 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHOES, WOMENS This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, and is available for use by all Departments and Agenci
2、es of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope This specification covers the requirements for a womans low dress black oxford shoe. 1.2 Classification The shoes shall be of one type only and in the following sizes and widths as specified (see 6.2). Sizes : 3 to 12 inclusive, in whole and half s
3、izes Widths: AAAAA to EE inclusive 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Goverment documents *2,1.1 Specifications, standards and handbooks Unless otherwise specified the following specifications, standards, and handbooks of the issue listed in that issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications a
4、nd Standards (DODISS) specified in the solicitation forai a part of this specification to the extent specified. SPECIFICATIONS V-G61 - Laces, Nylon V-T-276 - Thread, Cotton V-T-285 - Thread, Polyester Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, and deletions) and any pertinent data which may be
5、 of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter.
6、 FSC 8435 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-ZL7LLE 84 7777706 0383036 O MIL-S-21711E V-T- 2 9 5 KK-I-5 7 O KK-W-2 3 1 ZZ-H-141 PPP-B-636 PPP-B-566 PPP-B-676 MILITARY MIL-S-40043 MIL-C-41814 MIL-L-2 163 5 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-
7、191 FED-STD-311 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 - Thread, Nylon - Insole, Footwear, Leather, Cattlehide - Welting, Leather, Shoe - Heels, Rubber I - Box, Shipping, Fiberboard - Box, Folding, Paperboard - Boxes, Setup - Soles, Rubber, Shoe - Counter, Footwear - Last, Footwear (Shoe, Woma
8、ns Oxford) - Textile Test MeLods - Leather, Methods of Sampling and Testing - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - MArking for Shipment and Storage At tributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings and publications required by contractors in c
9、onnection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer-.) 2.1.2 Other Government publications The following Government publication forms a part of this Specification to the extent specified herein. LAWS AND REGULATIONS U
10、S POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Documents, US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.) * 2.1.3 Order of precedence In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this sp
11、ecification shall take precedence. * 2.2 Othergublicationc tion to the extent specified herein. The following documents form a part of this specifica- AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) D-412 -Rubber Properties in Tension D-746 -Brittleness Temperature of Plastics and Elastomers by Im
12、pact 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-2L7LLE 8LJ W 777770b 0383037 2 MIL-S-21711E D-790 - Flexural Properties of Plastics and Electrical Insulating D-792 - Specific Gravity of Plastics by Displacement D-1708 - Tensile Propertie
13、s of Plastics by use of Microtensile Specimens D-2240 - Rubber Property - Durometer Hardness (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Mat er ia 1 s Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT
14、 National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to American Trucking Association, Inc., Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, NW, Washington, DC 20036). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION GOeITTEE, AGENT . Uniform Freight Clhsification (Application for copies should be addressed
15、to the Uniform Classification . Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, ILL 60606). 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the . _- sample, in whi
16、ch case this specification shall govern, *3.2 First article When a first article inspection is required, the items will be tested and should be a first article sample. include specific instructions in acquisition documents regarding arrangements for examinations, quantity, and testing and approval o
17、f the first article (see 4.2). The contracting officer should 3.3 Material k3.3.1 Upper leather chrome tanned calfskin, chrome tanned kip or cattlehide leather may be used. dyed black and the color shall penetrate from both sides of the leather. When calfskin is used, the thickness shall be 1 3/4 to
18、 3 ounces and the area of a side shall not exceed 20 square feet. When kip leather is used, the thickness shall be 3 to 4 ounces and the area of a side shall not exceed 17 3/4 square feet. cattlehide leather is used, the thickness shall be 3 to 4 ounces and the area of a side shall not exceed 28 squ
19、are feet. than a break scale of 3 when calfskin is used and no more than a break scale of 4 when cattlehide or kip leather is used. of the cut vamp or quarter shall not appear in the uppers. shall be classified and scored in accordance with 4.3.1.1.3. The uppers shall be cut from full grain, smooth
20、finish As an alternate, full grain or partially corrected grain, The leather shall be drum When The break in leather shall be no more Defects affecting the grain surface Leather defects - _ - 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NIL-S-ZL
21、7LLE 84 777770b 0383038 4 MIL-S-21711E 3.3.2 Quarter linings, tongue linings, and heel pads The quarter linings, tongue linings, and heel pads shall be cut from a soft, chrome tanned, full grain or corrected grain cattlehide glove leather or pigskin leather. that may affect serviceability are not pe
22、rmitted. the thickness shall be 2 to 3 1/2 ounces. with the grain side facing the wearers foot. the entire heel seat area and extend a minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the front edge of the fiberboard heel tuck. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.1. Defects The color shall-be gray and The lining pieces
23、shall be assembled The leather heel pad shall cover *3.3.2.1 Fungicide treatment Leather components do not require a fungicide treatment. However, when used, leather components shall contain not more than 0.70 percent paranitrophenol fungicide-when tested as specified in 4.3.1. *3.3.3 Outsole, rubbe
24、r The outsole shall be black, 10 (+ 1/2) irons in thick- ness conforming to type I, Class 1 of MIL-S-40043. shall be smooth. name or trademark need not be marked on the bottom of outsole. The tyead area of the outsole The sole may be cut from sheet stock and the size, manufacturers *3.3.4 Insoles 3.
25、3.4.1 Leather insoles Leather insoles shall conform to type I, class 2, tannage a or b of KK-1-570. a maximum of 5 1/2 irons, The thickness shall be a minimum of 4 1/2 irons and The requirements for paranitrophenol shall not apply. *3.3.4.2 Synthetic insoles The insoles may be cut from a synthetic m
26、aterial that is sold commercially as “TEXORIST“. The synthetic materials shall contain 0.25 to 1.00 percent copper - 8 quinolinolate uniformly distributed throughout the insole. The insole shall be 0.116 (+ 0.010) inch thick. The insole shall be cut with the heel-to-toe direction across the machine
27、direction of the synthetic material. The synthetic insole shall have a stuck-on-rib applied to the printed side of the material (see 6.5). *3.3.5 Welting 3.3.5.1 Leather welting Leather welting shall be 1/8 inch in thickness and shall conform to the requirements of KK-W-231. 3.3.5.2 Synthetic weltin
28、g Synthetic welting shall be of a flat top design in a suitable configuration, to bright finish. The welting shall be of sufficient width to assure that the required finished sole extension of 1/8 inch is met. The thickness of the welting shall be 0.12 to 0.13 inch. The base compound shall be polyvi
29、nyl chloride or a blend of polyvinyl chloride and nitrile rubber. The finished welting shall be smooth, flexible, uniform in texture, and free of blemishes, cracks, blisters, and other defects that might affect serviceability or appearance. The synthetic welting shall conform to the following requir
30、ements when tested as specified in 4.3.1. The color shall be black with a semi-bright 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-HIL-S-ZL71LE 4 W 9997706 0383037 b MIL-S-21711E Property Hardness Specific gravity Brittle point Tensile strength,
31、 psi Elongation, percent Requir ment 85-95 1.32 maximum -15F or less 2100 minimum 225 minimum 3.3,6 Fabrics *3,3.6.1 Vamp lining The vamp lining shall be a cotton twill fabric conforming to the requirements of Table I. The fabric shall be natural or bleached and the starch and protein content, inclu
32、ding chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material, shall not be greater than 15 percent, based on the weight of the fabric. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.1. Table I - Cotton twill requirements Weight per Threads per Breaking strength sq Yd inch (min) (min) (min) Warp Fil ling oz. Warp Fillin
33、g Lbs. Lbs Weave 10 85 38 130 125 3/1 twill or herringbone 3.3.6.2 Quarter and vamp plug doublers (when calfskin is used) The quarter and vamp plug doublers shall be cut from a single napped cotton flannel weighing not less than 5.7 ounces-per square yard. The finished fabric shall have a minimum of
34、 36 warp threads and 36 filling threads per inch and shall have a minimum breaking strength of 30 pounds in the warp and 30 pounds in the filling. The starch and protein content including chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material shall not be greater than 15 percent based on weight of the fabric
35、. The colorof the fabric shall be natural, or bleached. specified in 4.3.1. used. NOTE: leather is used. Testing shall be as As an alternate, the material specified in 3.3.6.1 may be Quarter and vamp doublers are not required when kip or cattlehide 3.3.6.3 French cord The quarter top seam binding sh
36、all be 3/8 (+ 1/32) wide and shall weigh 7.0 to 9.0 ounces per gross yard. nylon warp and cotton filling with woven edges. and have a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to crocking. specified in 4.3.1. The binding shall have a The binding shall be dyed black Testing shall be as 3.3.6.4 Heel pad, felt T
37、he heel pads shall be white felt weighing not less than 5 ounces per square yard and of sufficient size to cover the entire heel seat area and front edge of fiberboard heel tuck. in 4.3.1. Testing shall be as specified Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lice
38、nse from IHS-,-,-3.3.6.5 Eyelet stays fiber tape or a stiff starched cotton stay-duck weighing approximately 8 ounces per square yard. shall be as specified in 4.3.1. uppers are used. The eyelet stays shall be a compressible adhesive The minimum width of stays shall be 1/2 inch. Testing Eyelet stays
39、 are not required when calfskin 3.3.6.6 Insole, stuck-on rib The finished rib shall consist of a combina- tion of coated fabric and fiberboard materials. The rib shall be 7/32 to 8/32 inch high with a minimum width. of 5/8 inch when measured from the inside vertical portion of the rib, and shall ext
40、end around the periphery of the insole from score line to score line. The fabric used for the stuck-on rib shall be cotton or cotton/synthetic conforming to the requirements of Table II. fabric shall be coated on one side with a suitable adhesive and bonded to the flesh side of the leather insole or
41、 the printed side of the synthetic insole. The fiberboard and fabric shall cover 4/32 to 6/32 inch of the peripheral edge, and provide for the required edge extension of the finished shoe. The Table II - Rib fabric requirements Weight, ounces Yarns per inch (min) Breaking Strength, lbs. per sq. yd.
42、(min) Warp Filling (min) Warp Filling - 8. O 52 30 105 105 3.3.6.6.1 Rib strength The physical requirements for the stuck-on rib shall conform to Table IIX when tested as specified in 4.3.3.2. Table II-I - Rib strength requirements a Characteristic Minimum - i/ Average - i/ Shear strength, lbs. 70 .
43、 75 Stitch strength, lbs. 20 30 - i/ No single determination shall fall below the minimum specified and the average of all specimens shall not be less than the average specified. 3.3.7 Counters -I_ 3.3.7.1 Counters, molded The molded counters shall conform to the requirements. of MIL-C-41814 for Sho
44、e, Womans, Black, Oxford. When automatic back part lasting is used the counter material shall conform to 3.3.7.2. *3,3.7.2 Counters, sheet The counter material shall be an extruded ionomer resin sheet with a heat activated adhesive on both sides. extruded sheet shall be 0.045 (+ 0.003) inches. coati
45、ng on each side of the sheet shall be 0.003 to 0.006 inches. the ionomer resin shall be suitable for the purpose intended. from the sheet material shall be sized properly to fill the counterpocket of the shoe. as specified ?Ln 4.3.1. The thickness of the The color of The thickness of the adhesive Co
46、unters cut The sheet material shall conform to the following requirements when tested 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-21713E 84 777770b 0383043 4 H MIL-S-21711E Property Requirement Specific gravity Tensile strength 4000 +500
47、PSI Elongation 250% minimum Flex modulus Brittle point -60 C maximum 0.955 + .O15 g/cc 50,000 + 5000 PSI 0- 3.3.8 Box toe The box toe material shall conform to either 3.3.8.1 or 3.3.8.2. *3.3.8.1 Impregnated box toe The box toes shall be formed with a woven flannel or processed needle punched base f
48、abric impregnated with a pyroxylin or polystyrene compound. The material shal.1 be 0.050 (+ 0.005) inch thick. The box toes shall be of a shape and size to engage the insole rib after lasting and support the toe portion and part of the vamp plug, approximately 1/4 inch back of the stitching. The box
49、 toes shall be skived at the breastline only. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.1. The box toes shall be either an activated or prepared type. *3,3.8.2 Laminated box toe When automated lasting is used the laminated box toe The combined may be made of virgin ionomer resin (SURLYN) laminated with any combination of flannel fbric, flannel or nonwoven fabric or either or both sides. thickness of the lamination shall be 0.040 (+ - 0.004) inch (see 6.5)
