1、MIL-S-87214B 20 November 1992 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-87214A 17 October 1986 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRT, MANS: SHORT AND LONG SLEEVES POLYESTER/COTTON(DURBLE PRESS) AND LONG SLEEVES, POLYESTER/WOOL This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense 1. SCO
2、PE *1.1 Scope This specification covers the requirements for mens blue, polyester/cotton durable press shirts, short and long sleeves, and a polyester/wool long sleeve shirt. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this docu
3、ment should be addressed to: Defense Personnel Support Center, Clothing and Textiles Directorate, Attn: DPSC-FSSD, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, PA 19101-8419, by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N
4、/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-872LYB 0b L4900b3 3bT MIL-S-87214B *1.2 Classification The shirts shall be of the following types and
5、classes, as specified (see 6.2): Type I -Long sleeve shirt Class 1 - Polyester/cotton broadcloth, USAF Blue 1550 Class 2 - polyester/wool tropical cloth,USAF Blue 1608 Class 1 - Polyester/cotton broadcloth, USAF Blue 1550 Type II - Short sleeve shirt 1.2.1 Sizes The mens shirts, short and long sleev
6、es, shall be furnished in the following sleeve lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2): Schedule of sizes (Types I and 11) and sleeve lenaths (Types I) 13-1/2 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 14 29 30 31 14-1/2 29 30 31 15 29 30 31 15-1/2 29 30 31 16 29 30 31 16-1/2 30 31 17 17-1/2 18 32 33 34 35 32 33
7、34 35 32 33 34 35 32 33 34 35 32 33 34 35 32 33 34 35 32 33 34 35 32 33 34 35 33 34 35 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 36 37 38 37 38 37 38 37 38 37 30 37 38 37 37 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents *2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks The following specifications, standards, and handb
8、ooks form a part of this d0cumer.t to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2) SPEC
9、IFICATIONS FEDERAL PPP-B-6 36 Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard V-B-871 Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-872148 = 9999906 1490064 2Tb * A-A-500 8 3 * A-A- 50 135 DDD-L-20 * A-A-56 O
10、2 1 * A-A- 5 2094 * A-A-5 O1 9 9 MILITARY MIL-L-10547 MIL-C-21115 MIL-T-43624 MIL-C-43992 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1492 MIL-S-87214B Bag, Plastic, Folded Garment Cloth, Interlining, Polyester Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (Genera
11、l Use) Plastic Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate Thread,Cotton, Thread Polyester Core: Cotton or Polyester-Covered Liners, Case, and Sheet, Overwrap; Water- Vaporproof or Waterproof, Flexible Cloth,Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool Thread, Polyester, Spun Cloth, Broadcloth, Polyester/Cotton Durable Pre
12、ss Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes Marking for Shipment And Storage Palletized Unit Loads Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Mens Shirts and Application of Packaging Requirements MIL-STD-2073-1 DoD Materiel Procedures for Development * MI
13、L-STD-2073-2 Packaging Requirement Codes (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia PA 19111-5094.) 2.2 Non-Government Publications The foll
14、owing documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents which are Dod adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of documents not listed in the DoDISS ar
15、e the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87214B = 999990b L4900b5 132 MIL-S-87214B THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of the Defense (DoD) Standard C
16、olor Card of Official Standardized Shades For Sewing Threads Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons (Application for copies should be addressed to The Color Association of the United States, 409 W 44th St., New York, NY 10016-0927). AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLOR
17、ISTS ( AATCC ) a AATCC TECHNICAL MANUAL c Test Method 88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and colorists, 1 Davis Dr., P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park (Application for copies of the AATCC Technical Manual s
18、hould be NC 27709-2215). AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) ASTM D 204 Standard Methods of Testing Sewing Threads a ASTM D 3951 Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (DoD adopted) (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916
19、Race St., Philadelphia PA 19103-1187.) AMERICAN IRON AND STEEL INSTITUTE (AISI) Steel Products Manual AISI Type 304 Stainless and heat Resistant Steel AISI Type 316 stainless and Heat resistant Steel (Application for copies of the AISI Steel Products manual should be addressed to the American Iron a
20、nd Steel Institute, 150 East 42nd St., New York NY 10017.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Orde
21、r of precedence In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-flIL-S-87214B = 9999906 II490066 079 MIL-S-87214B of this document takes preceden
22、ce. Nothing in this document, however,supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3,REOUIREMENTS 3.1 First article When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.2 Samples Guide Samples, when f
23、urnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.4) Variations from the document may appear in the sample, in which case the document shall govern. *3.3 Materials It is encouraged that recycled and reclaimed materials be used when practical as long as it meets the requireme
24、nts of this document. * 3.3 1 Basic material The basic material shall be a polyester/ cotton broadcloth, USAF Blue, Shade No. 1550, conforming to class 1, 3 or 4 of MIL-C-43992 for the type I and I1,class 1 shirts and polyester/wool tropical cloth, USAF Blue, Shade No. 1608 conforming to type III, c
25、lass 4 of MIL-C-21115 for the type I class 2 shirt. * 3.3.2 Interlininq The material for interlining the collar, collarstand, cuffs, pocket flaps, and shoulder loops shall be polyester fiber cloth conforming to A-A-50135. The color shall be white for the type I and II, class 1 shirts and charcoal gr
26、ay or black for the type II, class 2 shirt. 3.3.3 Collar stavs The collar stays shall be made from polyethylene terephthalate plastic sheet conforming to A-A-56021, except the thickness shall be 0.014 +0.001 inch, the color shall be natural (clear or opaque), and the transparency and optical propert
27、ies shall not apply. The stays shall measure 3/8 21/32 inch wide and 3 to 3-1/4 inches long. As an option, the stays shall have two slots 1- 1/821/32 inches long, centered along the length of the stay. Each slot shall be 1/8+1/32 inch wide and spaced an equal distance across the width of the stay. E
28、ither both ends shall be rounded or pointed with the points rounded, or one end rounded and one end cut at an angle with the point rounded. Testing shall be as specified in 4.4.1. *3.3.4 Thread The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester, Ticket No. 70, 2 ply or Ticket No. 100, 2 ply conforming to
29、A-A-50199. Spun polyester thread, Ticket No. 100, 2 ply or Ticket No. 70, 2 ply conforming to MIL-T-43624 may be substituted for the cotton-covered polyester thread. The thread shall be stabilized so as not to shrink in boiling water more than 1.5 percent when tested as specified in table IV. In add
30、ition, when purl type buttonholes are used, thread conforming 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-HIL-S-872L4B 9999906 l14700b7 TO5 MIL-S-87214B to type I, Ticket Nos. 40, 3 ply for the needle and 70, 3 ply for the bobbin of A-A-52094 s
31、hall be used. * 3.3.4.1 Color The color of the thread for the type I (Class i) and the type II (Class i) shirt shall be white AH, C.A. 66050. The thread for the type I (Class 2) shirt shall be Navy Blue AT, C.A. 66060, in accordance with the DoD Standard Shades for Sewing Threads. * 3.3.5 Buttons Th
32、e buttons shall conform to type II, class K, style 25, 19 line for shirts of V-B-871. The color shall be white BA, C.A. 62031 for the type I (Class 1) and type II (Class 1) shirts and Blue BV, C.A. 62003 for the type I (Class 2) shirt, in accordance with the DoD standard shades for buttons. 3.3.6 La
33、bels Each shirt shall have a size label, identification label, and instruction label or a combination identification and instruction label conforming to DDD-L-20. The fastness to laundering requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. 3.3.6.1 Size label The size label shall conform to type IV, class 2, of
34、DDD-L-20. *3.3.6.2. Identification label The identification label shall conform to type IV, class 1 and contain the following information : SHIRT,MA“S, LONG SLEEVE,POLY/WOOL BLUE i608 DLAl00-00-C-0000(Example) 8405-00-000-0000(Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR(Examp1e) NAME OF MANUFACTURER(1f other than c
35、ontractor) * 3.3.6.3. Instruction labels 3.3.6.3.1 Type I IClass 1) and Type II (Class 1) shirts The instruction label for the type I (Class i) and type II (Class 1) shirts shall conform to type VI, class 3 and contain the following instructions: WASHING INSTRUCTIONS MACHINE WASH: !se permanent pres
36、s cycle, moderately hot water (115 F), and soap or mild det rgent. and soap or mild detergent. HAND WASH: Use moderately hot water (115 5 F), b Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87214B 0b L4900b8 941 W MIL-S-87214B DO NOT WRING OR
37、 TWIST MACHINE DRY: Dry in tumble dryer at warm setting. Remove immediately at end of drying. Shape and hang. DRIP DRY: Remove from water before last spin cycle. Shape and hang. PRESSING: Press at moderate heat setting. DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL * 3.3.6.3.2 Type I (Class 2) shirt The instruction labe
38、l for the type I (Class 2) shirt shall conform to type VI, class 3 and shall specify: DRY CLEAN ONLY. 3.3.6.4 Combination identification and instruction label The combination identification and instruction label shall conform to type VI, class 15 of DDD-L-20 and shall include the instruction specifi
39、ed in 3.3.6.2 and 3.3.6.3. When combined, the item nomenclature shall not be repeated. 3.4 Desiun The dress type shirt shall have a soft collar with stays, patch pockets with a button-down flap on each side of front, a pencil pocket under the patch pocket on left front (as worn) and buttoned shoulde
40、r loops. The collar, collarstand, cuffs (type I, classes 1 and 2), pocket flaps, and shoulder loops are interlined. The sleeves of the type I, classes 1 and 2 shirts have continuous bindings on openings and convertible cuffs with two buttonholes in each cuff so they can either be buttoned or fastene
41、d with cuff links. The shirts shall be of safety stitch construction and have a yoke (see figures 1 and 2). * 3.5 Patterns Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.4). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither t
42、he Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the
43、 dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The standard patterns provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all seams except 3/8 inch for the bottom hem, attaching the cuffs (types I), and for setting the pockets. Unless otherwise indicated in Table II, seams shall
44、 be in accordance with these seam allowances. Minor modifications are permitted, where necessary, to permit use of automatic equipment as long as there is no effect on specified dimensions. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-8721
45、4B 3.5.1 Pattern parts The component parts shall be cut from the material as specified in accordance with pattern parts indicated in table I. TABLE I. List of pattern parts Material Pattern nomenclature Cut parts Basic material Front (types I) (see 3.3.1) Front (type II) Back Yoke Sleeve (types I) S
46、leeve (type II) Sleeve facing (binding) (types 1) Cuff (types i) L/ Collar leaf Collarstand Pocket Pencil pocket Pocket flap Shoulder loop Interlining cloth Collarstand inter ining Collar leaf interlining Pocket flap interlining Shoulder loop interlining (see 3.3.2) Cuff interlining (types I) Shaper
47、s Finished pocket Finished flap 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 4 2 2 2 1 4 4 1 2 1 2 2 - 1/ When optional cuff setting operation is used (see operation 20.c), 1/8 inch may be added to the patterns. However, finished cuff measurements shall be maintained. 3.6 Construction The construction of the shirt shall conform i
48、n all respects to the requirements specified in table II and herein. Figures 1 and 2 show the general style of the short and long sleeve shirts. 3.6.1 Fiqures The figures are furnished for information purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between .the written specification and the figures, the w
49、ritten specification shall govern. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-87214B 3.6.2 Stitches,seams and stitchinq All stitches, seams and stitching types shall conform to FED-STD-751. When two or more seam or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. When stitch type 401 is used, the looper thread sh
