1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN 12276:2013Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safetyrequirements and test methodsBS EN 12276:2013 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 12276:2013. Itsupersedes BS EN 12276:1999 which is withdrawn.The UK participa
2、tion in its preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other RecreationalEquipment - Mountaineering Equipment.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the ne
3、cessaryprovisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. The British Standards Institution 2013. Published by BSI StandardsLimited 2013ISBN 978 0 580 73209 6ICS 97.220.40Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard wa
4、s published under the authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 30 November 2013.Amendments issued since publicationDate Text affectedBS EN 12276:2013EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 12276 November 2013 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 12276:1998English Version Mounta
5、ineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Coinceurs mcaniques - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Klemmgerte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved
6、by CEN on 28 September 2013. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national s
7、tandards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language an
8、d notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hunga
9、ry, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENEL
10、EC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2013 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 12276:2013 EBS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 1 Scope 4 2 Normative references 4 3 Terms and de
11、finitions .4 4 Requirements .5 4.1 Design .5 4.2 Strength 5 5 Test methods 5 5.1 Test samples 5 5.2 Apparatus for strength test 5 5.3 Conditioning and test conditions .7 5.4 Procedure .8 6 Marking .9 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer 10 Annex A (informative) Protection provided by Frictiona
12、l Anchors . 12 Annex B (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 14 Bibliography . 15 BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 12276:201
13、3) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement,
14、 at the latest by May 2014, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by May 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or a
15、ll such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 12276:1998. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informati
16、ve Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In relation to EN 12276:1998 the following main amendments have been made: a) the passive strength has been added; b) addition of test procedure for testing holding force and passive strength; c) addition of pictograms for holding force and pa
17、ssive strength for the marking; d) addition of a pictogram for reading the manufacturers information. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia,
18、 Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the U
19、nited Kingdom. BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 4 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for frictional anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in thi
20、s document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods EN ISO
21、139, Textiles - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139) ISO 7000, Graphical symbols for use on equipment - Registered symbols 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 frictional anchor device, capable of self-expans
22、ion, which can be placed in a parallel-sided crack in the rock, and which, due to friction between the device and the rock, can withstand a load Note 1 to entry: See Annex A for protection provided by frictional anchors. 3.2 means of attachment part of the frictional anchor which allows the attachme
23、nt of a connector Note 1 to entry: Applies to connectors in accordance with EN 12275. 3.3 holding force force necessary to cause the frictional anchor, or its means of attachment, to break or to be pulled through the test apparatus and determined in the strength test in accordance with 5.4.2.2 3.4 p
24、assive strength force necessary to cause the frictional anchor, or its means of attachment, to break or to be pulled through the test apparatus and determined in the strength test in accordance with 5.4.2.3 3.5 operational range range of the widths within which the manufacturer ensures the holding f
25、orce will be at least the minimum holding force marked on the frictional anchor BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 5 4 Requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Frictional anchors shall be fitted with a means of attachment to a connector. If the means of attachment is sewn, the stitching shall contrast in colour
26、 or surface appearance. If the mean of attachment is a tape, it shall comply with stability requirements of EN 565. 4.1.2 The means of attachment shall be large enough to accommodate a pin with a diameter of 15 mm. 4.1.3 All edges of the frictional anchor and the means of attachment that may come in
27、to contact with fingers or combinable components shall be free from burrs. 4.2 Strength 4.2.1 Holding force When tested in accordance with 5.4.2.2, the holding force shall be at least the one marked on the frictional anchor and not be less than 5,0 kN. 4.2.2 Passive strength (if claimed) When tested
28、 in accordance with 5.4.2.3, the passive strength shall be at least the one marked on the frictional anchor and not be less than 5,0 kN. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples At least two frictional anchors shall be provided for testing; at least three friction anchors, if passive strength is claimed. If
29、a frictional anchor is manufactured in different sizes, each size shall be tested. 5.2 Apparatus for strength test 5.2.1 Layout The apparatus consists of two parallel, rigid steel supporting jaws for the adjustable parts of the frictional anchor and of a loading bar with a diameter of (10 0,1) mm fo
30、r the means of attachment; see Figure 2. The static friction between the supporting jaws and the frictional anchor shall be great enough to prevent the frictional anchor from slipping through at the test load, but the maximal surface roughness of Rmaxshall not exceed 500 m. The surface of the loadin
31、g bar shall have an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of Ra= 0,8 m and a maximal surface roughness of Rmax= 6,3 m. There are no surface roughness requirements for the loading bar when the means of attachment is other than textile material. 5.2.2 Adjustment The distance s between the support
32、ing jaws shall be according to the following formulae: BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 6 Position 1: s1= bmin+ (bmax- bmin)/4 (1) Position 2: s2= bmin+ (bmax- bmin) (2) where bminis the minimum adjustable width, see Figure 1; bmaxis the maximum adjustable width, see Figure 1. If the range between
33、bmaxand bminis less than 5 mm, only one position according to the following formula shall be adjusted: Position 3: s3= bmin+ (bmax- bmin)/2 (3) Position 3 is also used for passive strength test for all frictional anchors, if claimed. Key bminminimum adjustable width bmaxmaximum adjustable width Figu
34、re 1 Example of frictional anchors BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 7 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 loading bar 2 supporting jaws 3 frictional anchor 4 means of attachment s distance between supporting jaws F applied Force Figure 2 Layout and adjustment of apparatus test of holding force 5.3 Cond
35、itioning and test conditions For the strength test according to 5.4.2, condition frictional anchors with textile means of attachment in accordance with EN ISO 139. Carry out the strength test at a temperature of (23 5) C. BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 8 For frictional anchors with textile means
36、of attachment, start the strength test within 5 min of removing them from the conditioning atmosphere. 5.4 Procedure 5.4.1 Design 5.4.1.1 Check by visual examination that the requirements according to 4.1.1 are met. 5.4.1.2 Test the unloaded eye of the means of attachment in accordance with 4.1.2, w
37、ith a pin of (15 0,1) mm diameter. 5.4.1.3 Check by visual examination and handling that the requirements according to 4.1.3 are met. 5.4.2 Strength 5.4.2.1 Rate of loading of 20 mm to 50 mm per minute if the frictional anchor does not contain textile elements; of 50 mm to 200 mm per minute if the f
38、rictional anchor contains a textile element, subjected to stress during the test. 5.4.2.2 Holding force 5.4.2.2.1 Load at least one test sample in each of positions 1 and 2, or, if the range between bmaxand bminis less than 5 mm, load at least one test sample in position 3, see Figure 2. 5.4.2.2.2 A
39、pply a load to the means of attachment until the frictional anchor or its means of attachment break or until the frictional anchor is pulled through the apparatus. 5.4.2.3 Passive strength (if claimed) 5.4.2.3.1 Place a test sample in position 3, in its fully extended position, centrally between the
40、 jaws of the test apparatus, see Figure 3. 5.4.2.3.2 Apply a load to the means of attachment until the frictional anchor or its means of attachment break or until the frictional anchor is pulled through the apparatus. BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 9 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 loading bar 2
41、supporting jaws 3 frictional anchor s3distance between supporting jaws F applied force Figure 3 Layout and adjustment of apparatus test of passive strength 6 Marking Frictional anchors shall be marked clearly, indelibly and durably with at least the following information: a) name of the manufacturer
42、 or its authorized representative, 1; b) the minimum holding force in “kN”, which the manufacturer ensures over the operational range of the device, as explained in 7e). Also, if passive strength is claimed, the passive strength in kN which the manufacturer ensures. The strength values shall be expr
43、essed as whole numbers of kN. If passive BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 10 strength is claimed, pictograms for holding force and passive strength shall be used (see Figures 4 and 5); Figure 4 Pictogram for holding force Figure 5 Pictogram for passive strength c) graphical symbol, which advises th
44、e user to read the information given by the manufacturer (see Figure 6); Figure 6 Graphical symbol (according to ISO 7000, Symbol No. 1641) d) year of manufacture, if the product contains non-metallic elements which are load bearing. 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer The information supplie
45、d by the manufacturer shall contain at least the following elements: a) name and address of the manufacturer or its authorized representative 1; b) reference number of this European Standard: EN 12276; BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 11 c) the model (if more than one model is available); d) the si
46、ze (if more than one size is available), and the range of widths in mm (bmaxand bmin, as defined in Figure 2); e) explanation of operating range; f) the meaning of any markings on the product; g) the minimum holding force in kN, which the manufacturer ensures over the operational range of the device
47、, as explained in e). Also, if passive strength is claimed, the passive strength in kN which the manufacturer ensures. The strength values shall be expressed as whole numbers of kN; h) the use of the product and the protection which it can provide (see Annex A); i) how to choose other components for
48、 use in the system; j) how to maintain and service the product; k) the lifespan of the product or how to assess it and factors that affect the lifespan; l) effects of chemical reagents and temperature on the product; m) influence of wet and icy condition; n) danger of sharp edges; o) influence of st
49、orage and ageing. BS EN 12276:2013EN 12276:2013 (E) 12 Annex A (informative) Protection provided by Frictional Anchors Even when used correctly, the protection provided depends on the holding force of the frictional anchors, and where it is used (see Table A.1). The holding force depends on the rock type and its surface condition, and on the direction of the frictional anchor load in the event of a fall. The holding force may also be affected by the presence of humidity, ice, mud or sand on the rock. The behaviour of a frictiona
