1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN 13089:2011Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools Safetyrequirements and test methodsBS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 13089:2011+A1:2015. It supersedes BS EN 13089:2011 whi
2、ch is withdrawn.The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags. Tags indicating changes to CEN text carry the number of the CEN amendment. For example, text altered by CEN amendment A1 is indicated by .The UK participation in its preparation was entr
3、usted by Technical Committee SW/136, Sports, playground and other recreational equipment, to Subcommittee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other Recreational Equipment Mountaineering Equipment.A list of organizations represented on this subcommittee can be obtained on request to its secretary.This p
4、ublication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application. The British Standards Institution 2015. Published by BSI Standards Limited 2015ISBN 978 0 580 87327 0ICS 97.220.40Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer imm
5、unity from legal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31 March 2011.Amendments/corrigenda issued since publicationDate Text affected31 May 2015 Implementation of CEN amendment A1:2015EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EU
6、ROPISCHE NORM EN 13089:2011+A1 April 2015 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:2011English Version Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Outils glace - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Eisgerte - Siche
7、rheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 5 February 2011 and includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 19 March 2015. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European S
8、tandard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (Eng
9、lish, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium,
10、 Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerlan
11、d, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Mem
12、bers. Ref. No. EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EEN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 Introduction .4 1 Scope 5 2 Normative references 5 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Safety requirements 6 4.1 Edges 6 4.2 Shaft strength .6 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY .6 4.4 Strength in the load directi
13、on XX .6 4.5 Pick strength 7 5 Test methods 7 5.1 Preparation of test samples 7 5.2 Apparatus .7 5.3 Procedure .7 5.3.1 Test sample 7 5.3.2 Edges 8 5.3.3 Shaft strength .8 5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY .9 5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX .9 5.3.6 Pick strength . 10 6 Marking 11 7 In
14、formation to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 14 BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E)EN 130
15、89:2011+A1:2015 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 Introduction .4 1 Scope 5 2 Normative references 5 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Safety requirements 6 4.1 Edges 6 4.2 Shaft strength .6 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY .6 4.4 Strength in the load direction XX .6 4.5 Pick strength 7 5 Test methods
16、7 5.1 Preparation of test samples 7 5.2 Apparatus .7 5.3 Procedure .7 5.3.1 Test sample 7 5.3.2 Edges 8 5.3.3 Shaft strength .8 5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY .9 5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX .9 5.3.6 Pick strength . 10 6 Marking 11 7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer
17、 . 12 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 14 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 13089:2011+A1:2015) has been prepared by Tec
18、hnical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2
19、015, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by October 2015. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent righ
20、ts. This document supersedes !EN 13089:2011“. This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 2015-03-19. The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !“. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission
21、 and the Eu-ropean Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following signifi
22、cant changes have been made: a) an editorial revision has been carried on; b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls; c) there is a new classification of ice-tools; d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted; e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised; f) Subclause 5.3.7
23、was deleted; g) there is an additional marking. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Fo
24、rmer Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015EN 13089:2011+A
25、1:2015 (E)EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 4 Introduction This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations“ dAlpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Ann
26、ex A. BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E)EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 4 Introduction This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations“ dAlpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a package of st
27、andards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls. 2 Normative references The fol
28、lowing referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirement
29、s and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 ice-tool hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and
30、 a pick NOTE See Figure 1. 3.2 type 1 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.3 type 2 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice 3.4 type 1 pick pick intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.5 type 2 pic
31、k pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E)EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 6 Key 1 Shaft of the ice-tool 2 Pick of the ice-tool Figure 1 Main parts of an ice-tool 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Edges All edges of the ice-tool with which the users h
32、ands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges. 4.2 Shaft strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the
33、calculated fKvalue. 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose. 4.4 Strength in the load direction XX When tested in the load directio
34、n XX (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.5, a) the shaft shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose; BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E)EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 6 Key 1 Shaft of the ice-tool 2 Pick of the ice-tool Figure 1 Main parts of an ice-tool 4 S
35、afety requirements 4.1 Edges All edges of the ice-tool with which the users hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges. 4.2 Shaft strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent defo
36、rmation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated fKvalue. 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work
37、loose. 4.4 Strength in the load direction XX When tested in the load direction XX (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.5, a) the shaft shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose; EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 7 c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of t
38、he load shall not exceed 10 mm after removal of the load. Key 1 Pick 2 Shaft XX/YY Load directions Figure 2 Load directions XX and YY 4.5 Pick strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.6, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose; c) the permanent
39、 deformation at the point of application of the force shall not exceed 70 mm or the calculat-ed fKvalue after removal of the force. 5 Test methods 5.1 Preparation of test samples For the strength tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 the test samples shall be conditioned for at least 1 h at ( 30 5) C. The tests shal
40、l be carried out at (23 5) C. Each test shall begin within 3 min from removal from conditioning. 5.2 Apparatus For the tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 use a tape in accordance with EN 565 with a width of (15 2) mm. 5.3 Procedure 5.3.1 Test sample Carry out each test on a test sample not previously subjected to
41、 any load. BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E)EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 8 5.3.2 Edges Check by visual and tactile examination that the requirements of 4.1 are met. 5.3.3 Shaft strength Support the shaft horizontally and load it in the direction XX as shown in Figure 3. Dimensions in mi
42、llimetres Key 1 Tape Figure 3 Testing of shaft strength If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange the tapes as shown in Figure 3 with the load applied at the mid length of the ice-tool. Apply a force of F = (2 500 +1250) N without shock and maintain for (60 5) s. If the ice tool is not long enough, re
43、duce the 250 mm to “lk“. lkshall be as long as possible in reducing steps of 10 mm. Then calculate the force Fkto be applied as follows: Fk= F 250/lk(1) Calculate the maximum permissible permanent deformation fkin mm as follows: fk= 3 (lk/250)2(2) where lkis the distance in mm from the middle of the
44、 shaft to the middle of the outer tapes, being positioned at the ends of the shaft. During the test, according to the shape of the shaft, the ice-tool may turn. If so, carry out the test in the stable position attained after rotation. For a straight shaft, rotation shall be prevented. If the ice-too
45、l is fitted with a telescopic shaft, carry out the test at the length stated in the manufacturers instructions for use as an anchor point for belaying in snow. BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E)EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 8 5.3.2 Edges Check by visual and tactile examination that the re
46、quirements of 4.1 are met. 5.3.3 Shaft strength Support the shaft horizontally and load it in the direction XX as shown in Figure 3. Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 Tape Figure 3 Testing of shaft strength If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange the tapes as shown in Figure 3 with the load applied at
47、 the mid length of the ice-tool. Apply a force of F = (2 500 +1250) N without shock and maintain for (60 5) s. If the ice tool is not long enough, reduce the 250 mm to “lk“. lkshall be as long as possible in reducing steps of 10 mm. Then calculate the force Fkto be applied as follows: Fk= F 250/lk(1
48、) Calculate the maximum permissible permanent deformation fkin mm as follows: fk= 3 (lk/250)2(2) where lkis the distance in mm from the middle of the shaft to the middle of the outer tapes, being positioned at the ends of the shaft. During the test, according to the shape of the shaft, the ice-tool
49、may turn. If so, carry out the test in the stable position attained after rotation. For a straight shaft, rotation shall be prevented. If the ice-tool is fitted with a telescopic shaft, carry out the test at the length stated in the manufacturers instructions for use as an anchor point for belaying in snow. EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 9 Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force. 5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY Support and load the test samples as shown in Figure 4. Dimensions in millim
