1、BRITISH STANDARDBS EN 569:2007Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methodsThe European Standard EN 569:2007 has the status of a British StandardICS 97.220.40g49g50g3g38g50g51g60g44g49g42g3g58g44g55g43g50g56g55g3g37g54g44g3g51g40g53g48g44g54g54g44g50g49g3g40g59g38g40g51g55g3g3
2、6g54g3g51g40g53g48g44g55g55g40g39g3g37g60g3g38g50g51g60g53g44g42g43g55g3g47g36g58BS EN 569:2007This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 28 September 2007 BSI 2007ISBN 978 0 580 57967 7National forewordThis British Standard is the UK im
3、plementation of EN 569:2007. It supersedes BS EN 569:1997 which is withdrawn.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted by Technical Committee SW/136, Sports, playground and other recreational equipment, to Subcommittee SW/136/5, Mountaineering equipment.A list of organizations represente
4、d on this committee can be obtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application.Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity from legal obligations.Amendments issue
5、d since publicationAmd. No. Date CommentsEUROPEAN STANDARDNORME EUROPENNEEUROPISCHE NORMEN 569February 2007ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 569:1997 English VersionMountaineering equipment - Pitons - Safety requirements andtest methodsEquipement dalpinisme et descalade - Pitons - Exigencesde scurit et mt
6、hodes dessaiBergsteigerausrstung - Felshaken - SicherheitstechnischeAnforderungen und PrfverfahrenThis European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 January 2007.CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this EuropeanStandard th
7、e status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such nationalstandards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German
8、). A version in any other language made by translationunder the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as theofficial versions.CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republ
9、ic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATIONCOMIT EUROPEN DE NORMA
10、LISATIONEUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNGManagement Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels 2007 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reservedworldwide for CEN national Members.Ref. No. EN 569:2007: EEN 569:2007 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword3 Introduction .4 1 Scope 5 2 Terms
11、and definitions .5 3 Safety requirements 5 3.1 Design .5 3.2 Breaking force6 4 Test method6 4.1 Examination of design 6 4.2 Determination of breaking force 7 4.2.1 Test samples 7 4.2.2 Test conditions 7 4.2.3 Apparatus .7 4.2.4 Preparation and positioning of test samples8 4.2.5 Procedure .8 5 Markin
12、g .9 6 Information supplied by the manufacturer .9 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment10 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard an the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC11 EN 569:2007 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 569:2007) has be
13、en prepared by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by Au
14、gust 2007, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by August 2007. This document supersedes EN 569:1997. This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requireme
15、nts of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this European Standard. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this Europea
16、n Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdo
17、m. EN 569:2007 (E) 4 Introduction The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard R (Union Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme), which has been developed with international participation. This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipm
18、ent, see Annex A. EN 569:2007 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 2.1 piton device which, whe
19、n inserted into a rock crack by means of a hammer or equivalent device, provides an anchor NOTE Two parts can normally be identified in the piton: the head and the blade. 2.2 head part of the piton which contains the attachment point eye (or eyes) used for connection to the rope (via a connector) an
20、d which is usually the part struck when inserting the piton 2.3 blade part of the piton which is inserted into the rock crack 2.4 length of the piton length of the blade measured in the direction of its insertion into the crack 2.5 pulling shackle tool used to apply the force in the test 2.6 safety
21、piton piton which exhibits a high breaking force (see Table 1) and having a length of at least 90 mm 2.7 progression piton piton with a lower breaking force than safety pitons (see Table 1) 3 Safety requirements 3.1 Design 3.1.1 The eye shall be at least 3 mm thick (see Figure 1). 3.1.2 The internal
22、 edges of the eye shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or larger than 0,2 mm 45. See a) in Figure 1. EN 569:2007 (E) 6 Dimensions in millimetres a) Bevelled edges b) Rounded edges Figure 1 Attachment point eye dimensions 3.1.3 When tested according to 4.1, the eye shall have an internal
23、 diameter of at least 15 mm. See b) in Figure 1. 3.1.4 If pitons are made from heat treated steel with a hardness greater than 38 HRC they have to appear dark. Pitons which are made from all other materials and a hardness less than 22 HRC have to appear light. The head and the eye shall be free from
24、 burrs and sharp edges. 3.2 Breaking force When tested in accordance with 4.2, the breaking force shall be not less than the appropriate value given in Table 1. Table 1 Minimum values of breaking force Breaking force F1F2F3Type kN kN kNSafety pitons 25 10 15 Progression pitons 12,5 5 7,5 F1is the no
25、rmal direction specified by the manufacturer; F2is the reverse direction; F3is the sideways direction (see Figures 2 and 3). 4 Test method 4.1 Examination of design The requirements according to 3.1 shall be tested by measurement or tactile examination on one test sample. EN 569:2007 (E) 7 4.2 Deter
26、mination of breaking force 4.2.1 Test samples If a piton model is produced in different lengths, test only the shortest length in accordance with 4.2.5. For each test direction a new test sample is to be used. 4.2.2 Test conditions Carry out the test at a temperature of (23 5) C. 4.2.3 Apparatus The
27、 apparatus shall consist of a) a vice for holding the piton at a pressure that does not lead to visible deformation of the test sample and with edges of the two jaws holding the piton rounded to a radius of (5 0,5) mm (see Figure 2). At least one of the jaws rotates in order to accommodate any taper
28、ed shape in the piton; b) a means of preventing extraction and rotation of the piton, e.g. one or two pins. Ensure that the outer hole drilled in the piton blade respectively the fixing system remains at least 20 mm from the outer surface of the jaw (see Figure 2); c) a pulling shackle, made of stee
29、l, with a diameter of (10 0,1) mm to apply a force on the piton, the part of this device which is nearest to the piton being as indicated in Figures 2 and 3. The shackle rotates freely around axes X and Y (see Figure 3), to allow free deformation of the piton. Dimensions in millimetres Figure 2 Part
30、 of the test device (Example 1) EN 569:2007 (E) 8 Dimensions in millimetres Figure 3 Part of the test device (Example 2) 4.2.4 Preparation and positioning of test samples If necessary, drill holes in the piton and jaw of the vice to accommodate the holding pins. If this method of fixing is not feasi
31、ble, use other means as advised by the manufacturer. NOTE The manufacturer can provide means to prevent rotation during side pull, particularly in cases where only one pin can be used. Ensure that the holding system does not cause rupture of the piton. For positioning apply a force of (100 10) N to
32、the pulling device in “F1“ direction with an initial distance of the line of action of the pulling force from the jaw surface of (20 0,5) mm (see Figure 2). If this cannot be achieved, use the smallest possible distance. Use the same distance for each direction of force. 4.2.5 Procedure Apply a forc
33、e with a traction speed of (35 15) mm/min in the three following directions: a) normal direction (F1), specified by the manufacturer; b) reverse direction (F2); c) sideways direction (F3). EN 569:2007 (E) 9 If the piton is asymmetric, repeat the side pull in the opposing direction on an unloaded tes
34、t sample. If the test sample does not break when a force of 30 kN has been reached, terminate the test and report a value of 30 kN. 5 Marking The head of each piton shall be marked with at least the following information: a) name of the manufacturer or its representative in the European Community; b
35、) piton length, expressed in centimetres rounded down to the nearest whole centimetre. Safety pitons shall be marked with the letter “S“ in a circle. If there is insufficient space on the head, the name or trademark of the manufacturer may be affixed to the piton blade. 6 Information supplied by the
36、 manufacturer The piton shall be supplied with an explanatory leaflet, and written in at least the official language(s) of the state of destination within the European Community containing at least the following items; a) name and address of the manufacturer or its representative in the European Com
37、munity; b) number of this European Standard, i.e. EN 569; c) meaning of any markings on the product; d) explanation of the indication of length; e) explanation of the symbol “S“; f) information that the breaking force and the holding capacity of a piton placed in a rock will be reduced as time passe
38、s and that multiple use of a piton may also reduce its strength; g) use of the product; h) how to choose other components for use in the system; i) how to maintain and service the product; j) lifespan of the product; k) effects of chemical reagents and temperature on the product. EN 569:2007 (E) 10
39、Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment Table A.1 List of standards on mountaineering equipment No Document Title 1 EN 892 Mountaineering equipment Dynamic mountaineering ropes Safety requirements and test methods 2 EN 12275 Mountaineering equipment Connectors Safety requirements
40、 and test methods 3 EN 13089 Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools Safety requirements and test methods 4 EN 12277 Mountaineering equipment Harnesses Safety requirements and test methods 5 EN 12492 Mountaineering equipment Helmets for mountaineers Safety requirements and test methods 6 EN 564 Mountaine
41、ering equipment Accessory cord Safety requirements and test methods 7 EN 565 Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods 8 EN 566 Mountaineering equipment Slings Safety requirements and test methods 9 EN 12276 Mountaineering equipment Frictional anchors Safety requirements and
42、 test methods 10 EN 12270 Mountaineering equipment Chocks Safety requirements and test methods 11 EN 567 Mountaineering equipment Rope clamps Safety requirements and test methods12 EN 958 Mountaineering equipment Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing Safety requirem
43、ents and test methods 13 EN 959 Mountaineering equipment Rock anchors Safety requirements and test methods 14 EN 568 Mountaineering equipment Ice anchors Safety requirements and test methods 15 EN 569 Mountaineering equipment Pitons Safety requirements and test methods 16 EN 893 Mountaineering equip
44、ment Crampons Safety requirements and test methods 17 prEN 15151 Mountaineering equipment Descenders Safety requirements and test methods 18 EN 12278 Mountaineering equipment Pulleys Safety requirements and test methods EN 569:2007 (E) 11 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Sta
45、ndard an the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to provide a means of conforming to Essential Requirements of the New Approach Directive 89/686/EEC
46、on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to personal protective equipment. Once this standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Communities under that Directive and has been implemented as a national standard in at least one Member State, compliance with the clau
47、ses of this standard given in Table ZA.1 confers, within the limits of the scope of this standard, a presumption of conformity with the corresponding Essential Requirements of that Directive and associated EFTA regulations. Table ZA.1 Correspondence between this European Standard and Directive 89/68
48、6/EEC Clause(s)/subclause(s) of this EN Essential Requirements (ERs) of Directive 89/686/EEC Qualifying remarks/Notes 3.1 1.2.1 Absence of risk and other factors 3.2 1.3.2 Lightness and design strength 6 1.4 Information supplied by the manufacturer WARNING: Other requirements and other EU Directives
49、 may be applicable to the product(s) falling within the scope of this standard. BS EN 569:2007BSI389 Chiswick High RoadLondonW4 4ALBSI British Standards InstitutionBSI is the independent national body responsible for preparing British Standards. It presents the UK view on standards in Europe and at the international level. It is incorporated by Royal Charter.RevisionsBritish Standards are updated by amendment or revision. Users of British Standards should make sure
