1、raising standards worldwideNO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAWBSI Standards PublicationBS EN 892:2012Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods BS EN 892:2012 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard
2、 is the UK implementation of EN 892:2012. It supersedes BS EN 892:2004 which is withdrawn.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to Technical Committee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other Recreational Equipment - Mountaineering Equipment.A list of organizations represented on this
3、committee can be obtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application. The British Standards Institution 2012. Published by BSI Standards Limited 2012ISBN 978 0 580 74615 4 ICS
4、97.220.40 Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity from legal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 30 September 2012.Amendments issued since publicationDate Text affectedBS EN 892:2012EUROPEAN STANDARD
5、NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 892 August 2012 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 892:2004English Version Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods quipement dalpinisme et descalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergstei
6、gerausrstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 July 2012. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status
7、 of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, Germ
8、an). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia
9、, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and Unit
10、ed Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2012 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 892:2012: EB
11、S EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3Introduction .41 Scope 52 Normative references 53 Terms and definitions .54 Safety requirements 75 Test methods 86 Marking 247 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 24Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 26Ann
12、ex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC Personal Protective Equipment 27BS EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 892:2012) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and o
13、ther recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 2013, and conflicting national standards shall be wit
14、hdrawn at the latest by February 2013. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 892:2004. This docu
15、ment has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. The main change
16、s compared to EN 892:2004 are: a) editorial changes; b) conditioning climate in 5.2 was changed; c) dimension of the remaining tape for preparation of the sheath slippage test in 5.4.2 was changed; d) allowed slippage of the rope in the drop test in 5.6.3. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regul
17、ations, the national standards organisations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, It
18、aly, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. BS EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 4 Introduction The text is based on UIAA-Standard B (International Mountaineering and Climbing feder
19、ation), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. BS EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half an
20、d twin ropes) in kernmantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
21、 undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials Rockwell hardness test Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, K, N, T) (ISO 6508-1) ISO 6487, Road vehicles Measurement techniques in impact tests Ins
22、trumentation 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 dynamic mountaineering rope rope, which is capable, when used as a component in the safety chain, of arresting the free fall of a person engaged in mountaineering or climbing with a
23、 limited peak force 3.2 single rope dynamic mountaineering rope, capable of being used singly, as a link in the safety chain, to arrest a leaders fall 3.3 half rope dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs, as a link in the safety chain to arrest the leaders fall Note 1 to e
24、ntry: See Figure 1. 3.4 twin rope dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs and parallel, as a link in the safety chain to arrest a leaders fall Note 1 to entry: See Figure 2. BS EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 6 Figure 1 Examples of use on half ropes Figure 2 Use of twin ropes BS
25、 EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 7 3.5 kernmantel rope rope composed of a core and a sheath 3.6 safety chain connection of linked elements which protects the climber or mountaineer against falls from a height Note 1 to entry: The safety chain includes ropes connected to the anchors by connectors and to t
26、he climbers by harnesses. 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Construction Dynamic ropes in accordance with this European Standard shall be made in a kernmantel construction. Diameter and mass per unit length are relevant characteristics. See test method in 5.3. If the properties of the rope change along its
27、length, for example: diameter, strength, markings, samples from each section shall be submitted for testing. The information to be supplied shall all correspond to the lowest performance section of the rope. 4.2 Sheath slippage When tested in accordance with 5.4, the sheath slippage in a longitudina
28、l direction relative to the core (in positive or negative direction) shall not exceed 1 % (20 mm) (see Figure 3). Key 1 sheath 2 core apositive sheath slippage 20 mm bnegative sheath slippage 20 mmFigure 3 Sheath slippage 4.3 Static elongation When tested in accordance with 5.5, the static elongatio
29、n shall not exceed: BS EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 8 10 % in single ropes (single strand of rope); 12 % in half ropes (single strand of rope); 10 % in twin ropes (double strand of rope). 4.4 Dynamic Elongation When tested in accordance with 5.6, the dynamic elongation shall not exceed 40 % during the
30、 first drop for each test sample. 4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops 4.5.1 Peak force in the rope When tested in accordance with 5.6, the peak force in the rope, during the first drop, for each test sample, shall not exceed: 12 kN in single ropes (single strand of rope); 8 kN in half
31、 ropes (single strand of rope); 12 kN in twin ropes (double strand of rope). 4.5.2 Number of drops When tested in accordance with 5.6, each rope sample shall withstand at least 5, for twin ropes at least 12, consecutive drop tests without breaking. 5 Test methods 5.1 Test samples A test sample with
32、a length of: 40 m for single and half ropes, 80 m or 2 40 m for twin rope; shall be available for the tests. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.3 on an unused test sample. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.4 on two unused test samples with a length of (2 250 10) mm. Carry out the test i
33、n accordance with 5.5 on two unused test samples with a length of at least 1 500 mm. Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.6 on three unused test samples with a minimum length of 5 m for single and half ropes, and 10 m for twin ropes, cut out of the available test sample. BS EN 892:2012EN 892:201
34、2 (E) 9 5.2 Conditioning and test conditions Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 5) C and less than 20 % relative humidity. Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (23 2) C and (50 2) % relative humidity for at least 72 h. Then start testing these samples at
35、a temperature of (23 5) C within 10 min. 5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length 5.3.1 Procedure Clamp the test sample at one end. Load the test sample without shock with a mass1)of: (10 0,1) kg for single ropes, (6 0,1) kg for half ropes, (5 0,1) kg for twin ropes at a distance of at l
36、east 1 200 mm from the clamp. After applying the load for 60 s mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 1) mm on the test sample. The distance of the marking from the clamp or attachment for the test sample shall be at least 50 mm. Within a further 3 min measure the diameter in two dir
37、ections around the diameter starting at points 90 apart at each of three levels approximately 100 mm apart. If the rope cross section is not circular, the maximum and minimum diameter are to be determined in each section. The length of the contact areas of the measuring instrument shall be (50 1) mm
38、. The rope cross-sectional area shall not be subject to any compression during the measurement. Then cut out the marked portion of the test sample and determine the mass to the nearest 0,1 g. Check that the construction of the rope is a kernmantel construction. 5.3.2 Expression of results Express th
39、e diameter as the arithmetic mean of the six measurements to the nearest 0,1 mm. Express the mass per unit length in ktex or g/m to the nearest 1 g. 5.4 Sheath slippage 5.4.1 Principle The rope is drawn through the apparatus illustrated in Figure 4, where the movement is restricted by radial forces.
40、 The resulting frictional force on the sheath causes slippage of the sheath relative to the core. The extent of this slippage is measured. 1) The mass can be introduced by a corresponding force. BS EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 10 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 moving plates 2 spacers 3 fixed plates F
41、igure 4 Apparatus for testing the sheath slippage 5.4.2 Preparation of the test samples Fuse one end of the sheath and core of each test sample together. Before cutting the other end of each test sample to size, apply a short length of adhesive tape around the rope, where it is to be cut, at right a
42、ngles to the axis of the rope. The adhesive tape shall be at least 12 mm wide before cutting, and the angle of wrap around the rope, , shall be 150 180. After affixing the adhesive tape, cut the sample to a length of (2 250 10) mm with a sharp knife, within the width of the tape, at right angles to
43、the axis of the rope (see Figure 5) such that the adhesive tape remaining on the test sample has a width of (10 5) mm. The characteristics of the adhesive tape and the method of application should be such as to reduce the extent to which the cut end of the sheath unravels during the test, whilst not
44、 interfering with the slippage taking place between the core and the sheath of the rope sample. BS EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 11 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 adhesive tape Figure 5 Sheath slippage test Cutting the test sample to length 5.4.3 Apparatus The apparatus shall consist of a frame made o
45、ut of four steel plates each 10 mm thick, kept equal distances apart by three spacers. These spacers shall have rectangular slots in which three inserted steel plates are able to slide in a radial direction. The spacers shall be arranged in such a way as to allow each of the three inserted plates to
46、 slide at an angle of 120 (see Figure 5). Each of the seven plates shall have an opening with a diameter of 12 mm; their internal surfaces shall be semitoroidal and have a radius of 5 mm. The polished surfaces of the semi-torus shall show: an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of Ra= 0,4 m a
47、nd a surface roughness of Rmax= 4 m (see Figure 6). BS EN 892:2012EN 892:2012 (E) 12 Dimensions in millimetres Figure 6 Section through one of the plates The moving plates shall have a locked position in which the openings in the fixed plates and the openings in the moving plates all lie in line alo
48、ng a central axis. When not in their locked position each of the moving plates shall apply a radial force of (50 0,5) N to the test sample in the direction in which the plate moves. The test apparatus shall be rigidly mounted with its axis horizontal. Means shall be provided to support, on a smooth
49、surface, the test sample in a horizontal position in line with the axis of the test apparatus, in both directions of travel. 5.4.4 Procedure 5.4.4.1 At the start of the test the moving plates shall be in their locked position. 5.4.4.2 Introduce the fused end of the test sample into the apparatus and pull to a length of (200 10) mm through the test apparatus (see Figure 7). Ensure that the remainder of the test sample is not subjected to a
