1、INCH-POUND MIL-C-l7620F(NU) 28 March 1990 SUPERSEDING 2 September 1981 MIL-C-I762OE(NU) MILITARY SPECIFICATION CROWN, SERVICE CAP (MANS) This specification is approved or use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and A
2、gencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for mens cap crowns. * 1.2 Classification. The cap crowns shall be procured in the following types, classes, and sizes as specified (see 6.2). * Type I - Unlined Class 1 - Polyester/Cotton, White 305
3、3 Class 2 - Polyester/Cotton, Khaki 3729 Type II - Lined Class 4 - Wool Elastique, Green 2212 Schedule of sizes 6-1/2 7-1/4 6-5/8 7-3/8 6-3/4 7-1/2 6-718 7-5/8 7 7-3/4 7-1/8 7-7/8 8 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving th
4、is document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405
5、 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved or public release, distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l7620F(NU) 2, APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS * 2.1 Government documents * 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. Th
6、e following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the eitent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement th
7、ereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-T-276 NN-P-71 DDD-B-1199 DDD-L- 20 PPP-B-636 MILITARY MIL-C-368 MIL-C-3738 MIL-P-15011 MIL-C-24927 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-44121 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1394 MIL-STD-
8、2073-1 MIL-STD-2073-2 - Thread, Cotton - Pallet, Material, Handling, Wood Stringer Construction, 2 Way and 4 Way (Partial) - Binding, Textile, Cotton, Bias-Cut - Label; for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use) - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Clo
9、th, Elastique, Wool - Pallets, Material Handling, Wood Post Construction, 4 Way Entry - Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton (Durable Press) - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered - Cloth, Twill, Polyester - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedu
10、res and Tables r3r InspectLon uy - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Cap Crowns - DoD Materials Procedures Development and - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes Application of Packaging Requirements 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo re
11、production or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l7620F(NU) (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.
12、) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. U.S. POSTAL MANUAL (Copies of th
13、e manual may be obtained from the superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402-0001.) * 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise sp.ecified, the issues of the documen
14、ts which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation, Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGE
15、NT National Motor Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404.) UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Applications for copies shoul
16、d be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available
17、in or through libraries or other informational services.) * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations
18、unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3 Provided by IHSN
19、ot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- _ -. . - .- MIL-C-17b20F 84 m 7777706 0415780 b m MIL-C-l7620F(NU) * 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3 Material. 3.3.1 Bas
20、ic cloths. * 3.3.1.1 Type I, class 1, cap crown. The basic cloth used for the top, flares and band pieces shall b e a polyester/cotton cloth conforming to MIL-C-24927. The color shall match White Shade 3053. * 3.3.1.2 Type I, class 2, cap crown, The basic cloth used for the top, flares and band piec
21、es shall be a polyester/cotton cloth conforming to MIL-C-24927 except -that the color shall be Khaki Shade 3729. * 3.3.1.3 Type II, class 4, cap crown. The basic cloth used for the top, flares and band pieces shall be a wool elastique cloth conforming to type I of MIL-C-3738. The cloth shall be dyed
22、 to match Green Shade 2212. * 3,3,1.3,1 Linin The basic cloth used for the lining piece of the type II an alternate, material conforming to MIL-C-44121 may be used. The cloth shall be dyed to approximate the shade of the outer fabric. 3.3.2. Tape. The reinforcement tape, when applicable, shall confo
23、rm to type II, III, or IV, classes 1 or 2, of DDD-B-1199. The color of the tape shall approximate the shade of the outer fabrics and shall be cut to finish 1/2 inch in width. cap crown sha T9 be a rayon twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. As * 3.3.3 Thread, polyester core. The thread for
24、 seaming and stitching the cap crowns shall be a cotton-covered or rayon-covered thread Conforming to 2 or 3-ply, ticket number 50 of MIL-T-43548. The polyester-core, polyester-covered thread is not allowed. As an alternate, the thread for seaming and stitching the cap crowns shall be cotton thread
25、conforming to type IC1 or IC2, 3-ply, ticket Nos. 00, O00 or A of V-T-276. The thread shall be bleached white (class 1 only) or dyed to match the shade of the respective cap crown. * 3.3.3.1 Colorfastness. The finished thread shall show colorfastness to light, laundering, wet/dry cleaning and perspi
26、ration equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548 or V-T-276 as applicable. As a limit of acceptability or when no standard sample is available, the finished thread shall show a minimum of “good“ fastness to light, laundering, wet/dry cleaning and perspiratio
27、n when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548 or V-T-276 as applicable. * 3.3.4 Label. Each cap crown shall have a combination identification-size label conmng to type VI, class 4 of DDD-L-2(1, except that the label shall bear the following inscription: 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or
28、networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-17bFOF 4 7999706 Oq15781 MIL-C-l7620F(NU) CROWN, SERVICE CAP (MANS) FIBER CONTENT: 65% POLYESTER/35% COTTON (EXAMPLE) CONTRACT NO: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (EXAMPLE) STOCK NO: 8405-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) SIZE: 7 1/2 (EXAMPLE) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME O
29、F MANUFACTURER: (IF OTHER THAN CONTRACTOR) LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS For Type I only: MACHINE WASH WARM, PERMANENT PRESS CYCLE TUMBLE DRY, MEDIUM SETTING REMOVE PROMPTLY DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR Follow NAVEDTRA Manual 414-01-45-81 Formula II For Type II only DRY CLEAN ONLY 3.4 Design. The cap cro
30、wns shall consist of a circular top piece, flared sides and a band. One horizontal buttonhole shall be placed on each side of the band (see Figures 1 and 2). 3.4.1 Figures. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished for information purposs only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and th
31、e ligures, the written specification shall govern. * 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furnished by the government to the contractor for use in cutting working patterns (see 6.3). The patterns allow 3/16 inch for seam allowances, except where otherwise specified in Table I. The working patter
32、ns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using a
33、utomatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. * 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the cap crowns shall be cut from materials as specified and in accordance with the following pattern parts: 5 P
34、rovided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-WIL-C-L7620F 4 W 777770b 04L572 T Material Nomenclature of pattern parts Cut parts Applicable base fabric Top Half flare (front) Quarter flare (back) Band Top (lining) - Type II Lining rown I 3.6 Constru
35、ct ion. * 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more methods for seams, or stitches are given for the same operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn
36、so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result, All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the chain or looper (underthread) shall be on the inside of the cap cr
37、own. Ends of all seams produced by stitch type 401 shall be caught in other seams or stitching. Unless otherwise specified, topstitching and edgestitching shall be 1/16 inch from the edve. The bight of the overedge stitching shall be 3/16 inch. The guide and knife shall be set to trim only the ravel
38、led ends of the fabric. 3.6.2 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. * 3.6.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Unless otherwise specified in Table I, ends of all seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall b
39、e backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or 401 stitch type thread breaks may be repaired by using
40、301 stitch type. * 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The cap crowns shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in Table I, The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations, provided the finished cap crowns are identical to those produc
41、ed by following the exact sequence as shown. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification. 3.7.1 Pressin . All pressing operations referenced
42、 in Table I shall be performed + y using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine. * 3.7.2 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the cap crowns shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the cap crown. Any method may be used except: 6 Provided by IHSNo
43、t for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-l7620F(NU) (1) Corrosive metal fastening devices (2) Sew-on shade tickets (3) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets. * 3.8 Abbreviations in table of operations. The
44、 abbreviations used in Table I are as follows: Steh - Stitch in - inch Ndl - Needle Bob - Bobbin LPr - Looper Mchne - Machine Btnhl - Buttonhole incl - including 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-37bF 4 M S?TFOb 0435784 3 MIL-C-
45、l7620F(NU) TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF CAP CROWNS THREAD NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/ TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR 1. 2. 3. * 4, * Cut t ing. a. Cut the comonent Darts of the cai, crown in strict accordance with patterns furnished, which show size, shape, directional lines for cutting and notches f
46、or assembly of all parts. b. All component parts cut from basic material or lining (Type II only) shall be from one piece of material. Ends shall not be used. c. The component parts cut from the basic material or lining (Type II only) shall finish with the face side of the material on the outside. R
47、eplacement of defective components. During the cutting and manufacturing operations, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in Section 4, shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched components. Shade and size marking (se
48、e 3.7.2). a. The use of a rubber stamp or pencil is acceptable provided the numbers are legible and do not show through on the outside of the cap crown. Make band. a. Join ends of band. face to face and stitch 1/4 (+ 1/16) inch fiom the raw edge. Spread seam open and press flat. b. Double stitch 3/1
49、6 inch gauge with the seam centered between the two rows of stitching. or c1 As an alternate to operations 4a and b, join ends of band, face to face and stitch 1/4 (t 1/16) inch from the raw edge. Turn seam allowance and stitch 1/16 inch from the folded edge through all plies. 301 or 401 301 or 401 301 or 401 SSz-3 (a) SSz-3( b) LSq-2 10-14 10-14 10-14 50 50 50 70 50 50 50 70 50 50 50 70 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduc
