1、MIL-C-27b32 84 977770b O42bL2 2 W pc“q MIL-C-29632(CG) 20 March 1990 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, MANS, POLYESTER/WOOL, SERGE, FUSIBLE (COAST GUARD) This specification is approved for use by the United States Coast Guard, Department of Transportation, and is available for use by all Departments and
2、Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 SCO e. This specification covers the requirements for a manfs blue single dted dress coat fabricated of polyester/wool serge cloth with fusible fronts, collars, lapels, and sleeve hems. 1.2 Classification. The coat shall. be of one type, in the fol
3、lowing sizes and lengths, as specified in (see 6.2): 1.2.1 Sizes: 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, and 48 1.2.2 Lengths: Short, Regular, Long, and Extra Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. The following this specification to the extent specified herein.
4、Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 2letions) and any pert inen t data which may be of use in improving th
5、is document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 3.426) appearing at the end of this AMSC N/A FSC 8405 1 DISTRIBUTION STATEM
6、ENT A. Approved or publie release, distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. -I_- MIL-C-29632 4 - 9999906 0426129 4 - SPECIFXCATIONS FEDERAL C-F-206 V-T-276 V-T-280 V-T-285 V-T-295 V-T-301 CCC-C-438 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-8
7、6 MILITARY MIL-C-297 MIL-C-368 MIL-B-37 1 MIL-C-823 MIL-B-3461 MIL-C-15062 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-29137 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 MIL-(3-44121 MIL-C-44192 MIL-C-44296 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 MIL-C-29632( CG) - Pelt Sheet , Cloth, Felt, Wool, Pressed - Thre
8、ad, Cottan - Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester - Thread, Nylon - Thread, Silk - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Non-Woven - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Use) Bleached, or Dyed) - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Sy
9、nthetic Warp, - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Braid, Textile Tubular - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and - Buttons, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap - Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve Head - Cloth, Felt-Fabric, Composite, Undercollar
10、 - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered - Cloth, Twill, Polyester, Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon - Cloth, Twill, Polyester - Container, Shipping and Storage Coat (Hanger Pack) - Cloth, Fusibles and Spun Hair-wool or Rayon Filling Wool - Textile Test Methods - Sti
11、tches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage Attributes MIL-STD-2073-1 MIL-STD-2073-2 - Packaging Requirement Codes - DOR Maierials Pkocedures for Development and Application of Packaging Requirements 2 Provided by IHSNot for Resa
12、leNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27632 ?i 7997406 042bL30 O W (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specification, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue,
13、Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. CO
14、DE OF FEDERAL REGULATIONS Title 9 - Animal and Animal Products Part 95 - Sanitary Control of Animal By-products (Copies of The Code of Federal Reg.ulations (CFR) and the Federal Register (FR) are for sale on a subscription basis by the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Wa
15、shington, OC 20402-0001.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of documents which are DoD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation.
16、Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). AATCC Photographic Comparative Rating of Single and Double Needle Seams Method 88B - Two photos (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Americ
17、an Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-9989.) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department f Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads (Application for copies of color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the U.S.
18、, Inc., 343 Lexington Avenur, New York, NY 10016-0927.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order o
19、f precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document shall take precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3
20、Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29632 4 9999906 042b231 2 W 3.1 Guide Sam le. Samples, when furnished, are solely or guidance and informat -+ on to t e contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the s
21、ample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3; 3 Material. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a 11.5 ounce polyester/wool s
22、erge conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-823. The color shall be shade Blue 3362 and the piece number shall be 80353, 3.3.2 Linin . The material for lining the fronts, sleeves, yoke, right vent, and -+ or the weltings and facings of the inside breast pockets shall be rayon lining, 3.7 ounce, sh
23、ade Blue 3351, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The piece number for the standard sample is 1533. As an alternate, the lining material may be a polyester twill cloth, Blue 334, conforming to MIL-C-44121. 3,3,3 Undercollar interlining. The material for the undercollar interlining shall be cotton b
24、uckram, natural or bleached, conforming to type I, class 2 of CCC-C-438, except that the test for shrinkage shall be in accordance with test method 5580 of FED-STD-191 and the minimum stiffness requirement (inch pounds) shall be 0.015 in the filling. 3.3.4 Fusible interlinings. 3.3.4.1 Fronts fusibl
25、e interlining. The fusible interlining for the coat fronts shall be black and conforming to MIL-C-44296, type II, class 1, style B,. except the minimum dots per inch shall be 2091 or type VIII, class 1, except that the weight shall be 2.1 ounces per yard (+0.502.), - with a minimum dots per inch of
26、200; or type V, class 1, style 3, except that the minimum dots per inch shall be 200. 3.3.4.2 Small parts fusible interlining. The lapels, collars, and sleeve hems known as “small parts“, shall use a black fusible interlining and shall conEorm to type V, class 1, style A or B of MIL-C-44296. 3.3.4.3
27、 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machine) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to drycleaning when tested as specified in Table V, and
28、 minimum 24 ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three drycleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally the small parts fusible interlining will be accepted if it either begins to debond from the outer shell material, equivalent to the minimum b
29、ond strength or higher, and then splits from itself or if the small parts fusible readily splits from itself at a minimum tear strength of 6.0 ounces per inch. 3.3.4.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show a fastness to drycleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296, exc
30、ept when no standard sample is available, the finished fusible materials shall show llfairll fastness to drycleaning. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-29b32 84 7779706 0426332 LI = MIL-C-29632(CG) 3.3.4.5 Shrinka e. The interl
31、ining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in- shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally, the interlining after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.3.4.6 shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after drycleaning when testing
32、 as required in 4.4.3.1. All drycleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering or delamination. 3.3.4.6 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusible interlining shall be fused to a sinnle laver of basic material on a dry electrically hated conveyor
33、type fusing pres8 which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, stitching and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. A steam sourced fusing press shall not be allowe
34、d for any initial fusing operations. For optimum results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Common fusing press settings shall be established in
35、order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusibles together . Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roller co
36、ntact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on Figure 3. 3.3.5 Undercollar cloth. The undercollar material shall be wool flannel conforming to MIL-C-15062 with an interlining of cotton buckram conforming to CCC-C-438. The shade shall be black
37、 or a blue shade approximating the basic material and requirements or perspiration and crocking shall not apply. 3.3.6 One piece undercollar. As an alternate a one piece undercollar may be used and shall be a felt/fabric composite material conforming to MIL-C-29137. The shade shall be black or a blu
38、e shade approximating the basic material and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. When feltfabric composite is used the cotton buckram interlining is not required. 3.3.7 Pocketing. The material for lining the lower pockets, inside breast pockets, top of vent, and for use as po
39、cket stays shall be twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The shade shall be black and . requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. 3.3.8 Hanger loop, The hanger loop for the coat shall be cotton tubular braid conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-B-371 or shall be o th
40、e material specified in 3.3.2. The braid shall be black or shall match the lining or basic material and shall show good fastness to wet-dry cleaning and a Munsell value for crocking not lower than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.3.9 Floating chest piece. 3.3.9.1 Cloth chest piece. The chest
41、 piece and wedge piece shall be cotton warp and spun hair-wool filling interlining conforming to type I, class 2 of MIL-C-297. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-29632 194 m 999990b 042bL33 b m MIL-C-29632(CG) 3*3*9.2 Haircloth. Th
42、e shoulder piece shall be 2-ply cotton warp and natural horsehair filling cloth, undyed, having not less than 60 ends and 40 picks per inch, weighing not less than 4.5 ounces per square yard, and containing no sizing when tested as specified in 4.4.1. The horsehair shall meet current Quarantine Laws
43、 and pertinent regulations of the U.S. Department of Agriculture as set forth in the Code of Federal Regulations. 3.3,9*3 Felt cloth, The felt piece for padding the floating chest piece shall be feit made of pressed wool. conforming to type III (roll-felt), class llA2 of C-F-206. 3,3.9.4 Thread, The
44、 thread for seaming and stitching the chest piece shall be cotton, soft finish, type IA1 or type IA2, shade White AH, C.A, 66050, ticket No. 50 or 70, 2-ply, conforming to V-T-276. 3,3,10 Shoulder and sleeve-head pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type I, class 1 and the sleeve-head pads shall
45、 conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064, 3,3*11 Tapes and binding. 3,3*11,1 Woven tape. The tapes for staying the coat shall be cotton, The types and widths of preshrunk, conforming to classes 1 or 2 of DDD-T-86. the tapes shall be as follows: Type I Type II - 3/16 inch wide stay for left vent, neck gorg
46、e, back armhole, Type III - 3/8 inch wide stay for lapel, front, and bottom edges - 5/8 inch wide stay for bridle at breakline of lapel and lower part of front armhole 3*3.11.2 Cross-cut tape. The tapes for staying the shoulder, back neckline, and upper part of front armhole shall be cross-cut, 1/2
47、inch in width, twill cloth dyed or undyed, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The raw edges of the cross-cut tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent ravelling and shall be tested in accordance with 4.4.1. 3 3 12 Thread. 3.3*12.1 Polyester, covered. The thread for the coat shall be
48、 a polyester core thread, dyed shade Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 conforming to MIL-T-43548 in the fallowing types and sizes shall be used. The polyester covered, polyester core thread is not allowed. Use Ply Ticket No Assembling and tacking 2 or 3 50, 70 Button sewing Hand Machine 2 or 3 16 2 or 3 20 6
49、 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-27b32 4 777770b 042613LI MIL-C-29632(CG) d 3.3.12.2 -Cotton thread. As an alternate to the polyester core thread, a cotton threaa may be use, and shall be dyed shade Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 and shall conform to V-T-276 in the following types and sizes: - - Use Type Ticket No. Ply Seaming and s t i t ching IA3 30, 50 3 sleeve-head pads I
