1、. MILITARY SPECIFICATION -C-87026A(CG) Mp5 JUL 1988 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-87026(CG) 17 November 1976 COAT, M?NrSf POLYESTERflCQL, SERGE (COAST GUARD) 6- This specification is approved for use by the United States Coast Guard, Department of Transportation, and is available for use by all Department and h
2、 Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE * 1.1 Seo e. This specification covers the requirements for a blue single breasted ae ress coat fabricated of palyester/wool serge cloth. 1.2 Classification. The coat shall be of one type, in the following sizes and lengths, as specified in (see 6.2):
3、 1.2.1 Sizes: 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, and 48 1.2.2 Lengths: Short, Regular, Long, and Extra Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of
4、 this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. Beneficial comments (recomme
5、ndations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Pro
6、posal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEPENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is _. . - unlimited. / THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 66 PAGES. - / -. - Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without
7、 license from IHS-,-,-SPEC1 FICATIONS FEDERAL V-T-2 7 6 V-T-280 V-T-285 V-T-295 V-T-301 * NN-P-71 ccc-c-438 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 MIL I TARY MI L-C-368 MIL-B-371 * MIL-C-823 MIL-B-3461 MIL-P-15011 MIL-C-15062 MIL-P-15064 * NIL-C-15065 MIL-C-16375 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-29137 MIL-T-43548 MIL-C-43718 * MIL-C-4
8、4121 * MIL-C-44192 STANDADS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-10 5 MI L-STD-129 MIL-STD-147 - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Cotton Gimp, Buttonhole - Thread, Polyester - Thread, Nylon - Thread, Silk - Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2-Way and 4-Way (Partial) - Clot
9、h, Buckram, Woven and Non-Woven - Label; For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General Use ) - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) i - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Braid, Textile Tubular - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and - Buttons,
10、 Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth - Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve Head - Coat Fronts - Cloth, Wigan, Cotton - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Felt-Fabric, Composite, undercollar - Thread,
11、 Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered - Cloth, Twill, Polyester, Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon - Cloth, Twill, Polyester - Container, Shipping and Storage Coat (Hanger Pack) Wool 4-Way Entry - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures a
12、nd Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads Attributes 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Q a . - MIL-C-8702bA 4 = 999790b 04100b3 MIL-C-8702SA(CG) (Copies of specifications, standards, drawin
13、gs, and publications reI CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Applications for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text o
14、f this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 60606). 3. REQUI-C 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo repr
15、oduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.1 Guide sam le. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information -E to t e contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First articl
16、e. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). 3.3 Material. * 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the coat shall be a 11.5 ounce polyester/wool serge conforming to Type III, Class 3 of MIL-C-823. The color shall b
17、e shade Blue 3362 and the piece number shall be 80353. * 3.3.2 Linin . The material for lining the fronts, sleeves, yoke, right rayon lining, 3.7 ounce, shade Blue 3351, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. The piece number for the standard sample is 1533. As an alternate, the lining material may be
18、a polyester twill cloth, blue 334, conforming to MIL-C-44121. vent, an + for the weltings and facings of the inside breast. pockets shall be 3.3.3 Collar interlining. The material for the collar interlining shall be cotton buckram, natural or bleached, conforming to type I; class 2 of CCC-C-438, exc
19、ept that the test for shrinkage shall be in-accordance with test method 5580 of FED-STD-191 and the minimum stiffness requirement (inch pounds) shall be 0.015 in the filling. 3.3.4 Undercollar cloth. The undercollar material shall be wool flannel conforming to MIL-C-15062 with an interlining of cott
20、on buckram conforming to CCC-C-438, or a felt/fabric composite conforming to MIL-C-29137. The shade shall be black or a blue shade approximating the shade of the basic material and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. When felt/fabric composite is used the cotton buckram inter
21、lining is not required. 3.3.5 Wi an. The material interlining the sleeve bottoms shall be cotton 3.3.6 Pocketing. The material for lining the front pockets, inside breast pockets, top of vent, and for use as pocket stays shall be twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The shade shall be b
22、lack and requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. 3.3.7 Hanger loop. The hanger loop for the coat shall be cotton tubular braid conforming to type III, class 1 of MIL-B-371 or shall be of the material specified in 3.3.2. The braid shall be black or shall match the lining or basic
23、material and shall show good fastness to wet-dry cleaning and a Munsell value for crocking not lower than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.4.1. 3.3.8 Coat front interlinings. The coat front interlinings shall conform to type XVII of MIL-C-15065 . The interlinings shall be dyed black. 3.3.9 Shoulder
24、 and sleeve-head pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type I, class 1 and the sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of wigan, 2. ?- ounce, natural shade, conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. MIL-P-15064. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license f
25、rom IHS-,-,-MIL-C-7026A 4 9777906 0420065 L Use Type Ticket No. Ply Seaming and stitching IA3 30, 50 3 IC2 A 3 sleeve-head pads IAl or IA2 30 3 Button sewing IA3 or IB3 12, 16, 20 4 Padding lapels IA3 70 2 Tacking armholes and attaching 3.3.10 Tapes and bindinq. 3.3.10.1 Woven tape. The tapes for st
26、aying the coat shall be cotton, The types and widths of preshrunk, conforming to classes 1 or 2 of DDD-T-86. the tapes shall be as follows: I Type I Type II - 3/16 inch wide stay for left vent, neck gorge, back armhole, Type III: - 3/8 inch wide stay for lapel, front, and bottom edges - 5/8 inch wid
27、e stay for bridle at breakline of lapel and lower part of front armhole I 3.3.10,2 Cross-cut ta . The tapes for staying the shoulder, back neckline, and upper part + of ront armhole shall be cross-cut, 1/2 inch in width, twill the cross-cut tape shall be treated with a synthetic resin to prevent rav
28、elling and shall be tested in accordance with 4.4.1. 5 cloth dyed or undyed, conforming to Class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The raw edges of 3.3.11 Thread. 3.3.11.1. Polyester, covered. The thread for the coat shall be a polyester core thread, dyed shade Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 conforming to MIL-T-43548 in
29、the following types and sizes shall be used. The polyester covered, polyester core thread is not allowed. Use Ply Ticket No. Assembling and tacking 2 or 3 50, 70 Button sewing - Hand 2 or 3 16 Machine 2 or 3 20 3.3.11.2 Cotton thread. As an alternate to the polyester core thread, a cotton thread may
30、 be use, and shall be dyed shade Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 and shall conform to V-T-276 in the following types and sizes: a 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.3.11.3 Bastin thread. The cotton thread for basting and tacking shall be a
31、good com-, bleached or unbleached. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for only those basting operations where the thread is required to be removed provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, a
32、ny residue remaining on the garment after the dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. 3.3.11.4 Silk thread. The silk thread shall be dyed to approximate Cotton Shade Blue AT, Cable No. 66060 and shall conform to V-T-301 in the following types and sizes: j Use Type Class Ticket No. Ply
33、Machine felling and blindstitching I - O. 3 Buttonholes and bartacks I - B, c 3 Hand or all other lettering shall be 1/8 inch in height. The overall size of the label shall be 3-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches by 1-1/2 (+ 1/8) inches. The label shall show colorfastness to dry cleaning and the inscription shall b
34、e as follows: NAEIE: SERVICE NO: DRY CLEAN ONLY ROLL PRESS SLEEVES AND LAPELS 3.3.15 Size ticket. A comercial type size ticket shall be attached on the outside of the right front sleeve 2 or 3 inches from the bottom edge. The ticket shall be tacked on four corners by machine or hand (6 to 8 stitches
35、 per tack by machine or 2 to 4 stitches per tack by hand). The corners may be double perforated for ease in tacking. The ticket shall be made of suitable commercial cardboard and shall be legibly printed with the following information: Size - 38 Regular (Example) The length (Short, Regular, Long, or
36、 Extra Long) may be abbreviated as S, R, L, or XL. . The coat design is four-button single breasted with square pockets, all with self-lined flaps; back is two-piece with a center vent. - inside of coat is half-lined with yoke back, fully Pined sleeves, and two inside breast pockets (see Figures 1 a
37、nd 2). fronts, 3-4 9 notc ed lapels, two breast patch pockets, and two lower inside hanging 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-702bA 4 7979706 04100b 7 3.4.1 FiFres. The figures are furnished for information purposes only. When i
38、nconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used for cutting the contractors working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the standa
39、rd patterns and shall not be altered in any way, except as allowed by footnotes to the list of pattern parts. The patterns allow 3/8 inch for all seams except as otherwise indicated in Table I. 3.5.1 Pattern arts. The component parts shall be cut from the mdterials specified + an in accordance with
40、the following pattern parts: Ma te ri al Pattern Parts Cut Parts Cloth, Serge, polyesterfiool Cloth, Lining Twill Cloth Front 2 Side body 2 Back 2 Right front facing 1 Left front facing 1 Topsleeve 2 Undersleeve 2 Top col 1 a r 1 Breast patch pocket 2 Breast patch pocket flap 4 Lower pocket flap 4 L
41、ower pocket top and bottom piping 2 Lower pocket facing 2 Front lining Back yoke lining Topsleeve lining Undersleeve lining Right vent lining Inside breast Pocket welt and facing Breast patch pocket lining 2 Lower pocket 2 Lower pocket stay 2 Inside breast pocket stay 2 Breast patch pocket stay 2 in
42、side breast pocket 2 Cloth, Wool, Flannel Undercollar Cloth, Buckram, Cotton Undercollar interlining 1 y Cloth, FeltFabric Composite Undercollar (alternate) 1 Cloth, Cotton, Wigan Sleeve interlining 2 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,
43、-Templates a MIL-C-8702bA 84 9939306 04LOOb3 3 W Lapel shaper - Undercollar shaper - Left and right front marker Undercollar stand marker - Breast patch pocket marker - Finished lapel and collar shaper - Finished lower pocket flap - Finished breast pocket flap - Finished breast pocket - - . i/ Patte
44、rn may be cut as two (2) pieces with seam allowance added. Z/ When automatic pocket machine is used, the pattern part shall be cut in e Tialf. 3.6 Construction. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching types. Stitch, seam, and stitching types as specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whereve
45、r two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Ends of all seams and stitchings, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 3/8 inch. The ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be ov
46、erlapped not less than 1/2 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches and thread breaks may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I.
47、 3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. 3.6.3 Stitches per inch. 3.7 Manufacturing operations requirements. The coat shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements specified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed provided tha
48、t the finished coat is identical to those produced by following the sequence of operations as listed in Table I. 3.7.1 All pressing operations referenced in Table I shall be performed by using a heated pressing iron or steam pressing machine. 3.7.2 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the
49、coat shall be marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. my method may be used except: (1) The use of corrosive metal fastening devices or sew-on type tickets. (2) Adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets. a 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- I -_- mIL-
