1、MIL-C-87065A(NU) 13 February 1986 SUPERSEDING MIL-C-87065 26 January 1979 MILITARY SPECIFICATION CLOTH, CHAMBRAY, POLYESTER AND COTTON This Specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Ag
2、encies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope, This specification covers the requirements for chambray cloth made of a 50% Polyester and a 50% Cotton blend. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and. handbooks. Unless otherwise specified, the fo
3、llowing specifications, standards, and handbooks of the issue listed in that issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) specified in the solicitation form a part of this specification to the extent specified. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL PPP-P-1134 - Packaging and Pa
4、cking of Cotton and Cotton-Synthetic Fiber-Blend Fabrics (Excluding Duck Fabrics) Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility,
5、21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. FSC 8305 -DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 10
6、 PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MILITARY MIL-T-43548 - Thread, Polyester, Cotton Covered and Rayon Covered STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-4 FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods - Glossary of Fabric Imperfections MILITARY MIL-STD- 105
7、 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspections by Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications req,uired by contractors in connection with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer . 2.1.2
8、 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. LAWS AND REGULATIONS Rules and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (Copies may b
9、e obtained without charge from the Federal Trade Commission, Washington, DC 20580). 2.2 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. 3. REQUIREMENTS * 3.1 Standard sample.
10、 The finished cloth shall match the standard sample for shade and shall be equal to or better than the standard sample with respect to all characteristics for which the standard sample is referenced. The standard sample is identified under piece number 81209 (see 6.3). 3.2 First article. When specif
11、ied (see 4.3 and 6.2), the contractor shall furnish a sample for first article inspection and approval. 3.3 Material. (see 6.5). 3.3.1 Fibers 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-C-87065A 3 777770b OLI30726 W w- 3.3.1.1 Polyester fi
12、ber. The fiber shall be a polyethylene glycol teraphthalate, when tested as specified in 4.5. * 3.3.1.2 Cotton. The cotton shall be carded or combed, when tested as specified in 4.5. * 3.3.2 Yarns. The yarns shall be an intimate blend of polyester and cotton, drawn and spun into single yarns for bot
13、h warp and filling. The finished cloth shall contain 50 +5 percent polyester and the remaining percentage cotton, based on the dry Weight of the desized specimen, Tests shall be made as specified in 4.5. 3.4 Color. The color shall be Navy shade Blue 3372 and shall match the standard sample. The warp
14、 shall be dyed and the filling natural. 3.4.1 Sulfur content. The use of dyes and compounds containing elementary sulfur capable of oxidation to sulfuric acid is prohibited. The dyestuff shall be chosen and applied so that the dyed and finished cloth shall contain no more labile sulfur than shown by
15、 the standard sample when tested +s specified in 4.5. When a standard sample is not available, the dyed cloth shall show no more than a slight trace of labile sulfur as defined in the test method specified in 4.5. 3.4.2 Matching. The color of the cloth shall match the standard sample under artificia
16、l daylight having a color temperature at 7000 (+500) Kelvin and shall be a good approximation to the standard sample under incandegcent lamplight at 2850 (+loo) - Kelvin. * 3.4.3 Colorfastness. The finished cloth shall show colorfastness to light, perspiration, crocking, and laundering equal to or b
17、etter than the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.5. When no standard sample is available or when the standard sample is not referenced for colorfastness, the finished cloth shall show “fair“ colorfastness to light and “good“ colorfastness to laundering, Perspiration, and crocking when te
18、sted as specified in 4.5. 3.5 Weave. The weave shall be plain, when tested as specified in 4.5. * 3.6 Physical requirements. The finished cloth shall conform to the physical requirements shown in Table I when tested as specified in 4.5. Table I - Physical Requirements Characteristicq 3 Requirements
19、Weight - oz/ydL (g/m“) Yarns per inch (2.54cm) - minimum Minimum 3.3 (111.87) Warp 66 Filling 46 Warp 65 (298.1) Filling 40 (177.9) Warp 4.5 (20.0) Filling 3 (13.3) Breaking strength - lbs (Newtons) minimum Tearing strength - lbs (Newtons) mnimum 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or net
20、working permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-87065A(NU) * 3.6.1 Width. The width of the cloth shall be as specified (see 6.2) and a shall be the minimum acceptable width including selvages. When woven on shuttleless looms, the width measurement shall be made between the last warp yarn on eac
21、h side with the protruding fringe(s) excluded. 3.7 Seam efficiency. The cloth shall have a seam efficiency of not less than 85 percent when tested as specified in 4.5. * 3.8 Dimensional stability. The finished cloth shall not shrink nor elongate more than 3.0% in either the warp or filling when test
22、ed as specified in 4.5. The pre-shrinking process used shall not be identified by name or by trademark, either on the cloth, ticket, or package. 3.9 pH. The pH value of the water extract of the finished cloth shall be no less than 5.0 nor more than 8.5 when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.10 Finish. T
23、he cloth shall be closely singed, desized, heat set and treated with a precured resin to provide a crease resistant finish and hand equal in characteristics to that of the standard sample. 3.11 Non-fibrous material. The cloth, shall show no more than 4.0 percent starch and protein content including
24、chloroform-soluble and water-soluble material, when tested as specified in 4.5. 3.12 Length and put-up. Unless otherwise specified (see 6.2), the cloth shall be furnished in continuous lengths, each not less than 40 yards (36m). Each length shall be put-up in a roll as specified in PPP-P-1134. 3.13
25、Face identification. The face side of the cloth shall be identified by stamping “FACE“ on that side of the cloth at each end of the piece and roll. 3.14 Fiber identification. Each piece shall be labeled or ticketed for fiber content in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fibe
26、r Products Identification Act. 3 . 15 Workmanship . The finished cloth shall conform to the quality establlshed by this specification. The demerit points per 100 square yards (83.6m ), when calculated as specified in section 4, shall not exceed the established maximum point values. 4. QUALITY ASSURA
27、NCE PROVISIONS 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor is responsible for the performance of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract: or order, the contractor may use his own or any other fac
28、ilities suitable for performance of the inspection requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services confo
29、rm to prescribed requirements. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-4 . 1.1 Cer tif icate of compliance. Where certificates of compliance are submitted, the Government reserves the right to check test such items to determine the validity
30、 of the certification. 4.2 Classification of inspection. The inspection requirements specified herein are classified as follows: 1. 2 . First article inspection (see 4.3). Quality conformance inspection (see 4 . 4) . 4.3 First article inspection. When required (see 6.21, the first article of finishe
31、d cloth submitted in accordance with 3.2 shall be visually inspected for appearance, color, and finish, and shall be tested in accordance with methods specified in 4.5. 4.4 Quality conformance inspection. Sampling for inspection shall be performed in accordance with MIL-STD-105, except where otherwi
32、se.indicated. 4.4.1 Component and materiai inspection. In accordance with 4.1 above, components and materials shall be tested in accordance with all the requirements of referenced specifications, drawings, and standards unless otherwise excluded, amended, modified, or qualified in this specification
33、 or applicable procurement documents. 4.4.2 Examination of the end item. Examination of the end item shall be in accordance with 4.4.2.1 through 4.4.2.4. * 4.4.2.1 Yard-by-yard examination. Each roll in the sample shall be examined on face side only When the total yardage in the roll does not: excee
34、d 100 yards (91.4m) the entire yardage in the roll shall be examined. When the total yardage in the roll exceeds 100 yards (91.4m), only 100 yards (91.4m) shall be examined. All defects are defined in Section III of FED-STD-4, which are clearly noticeable at normal inspection distance (3 feet) (0.91
35、m) shall be scored and assigned demerit points as listed in 4.4.2.1.1, except that only the slubs and knots which exceed the limits shown on Sears Fabric Defect Scale (see 6.41, “E“ for slubs and “C“ for knots shall be scored. No linear yard (incrementsof 1 yard (0.91m) on the measuring device of th
36、e inspection machine) from any one roll within the sample shall be penalized more than 4 points. The sample size shall be in accordance with the following: Lot Size (yards) 3200 or Less 8 3201 thru 10,000 13 Sample Size (rolls) - i/ 10,001 and over 20 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction o
37、r networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-8 70 6 5A ( NU) - i/ Only one roll shall be taken from any shipping container, unless the number of shipping containers in the lot are less than the number of rolls required for sampling, in which case, all shipping containers shall be sample
38、d. 2The lot shall be unacceptable if the points per 100 square yards (83.6m ) of the total yardage examined exceeds 28 points. The lot shall$e unacceptable if the individual points per 100 square yards (83.6m ) of two or more individual rolls exceeds 40 ?oints. If one roll exceeds the point level pe
39、r .lo0 square yards (83.6m 1, a second sample, the same size as the first sample, shall be examined only for individual roll quality examination. The lot shall be unacceptable if one or more rolls2in the second sample exceeds 40 points per 100 square yards (83.6m 1. Point computation for lot quality
40、 and individual roll quality shall be as follows: Total points scored in sample x 3600 Contracted width of cloth (inches) x Total yards inspected = Points per 100 square2yards (83.6m ) * 4.4.2.1.1 Demerit points. Demerit points shall be assigned as follows: For defects up to and including.3 inches (
41、7.6cm) in For defects exceeding 3 inches (7.6cm) but not For defects exceeding 6 inches (15.2cm) but not For defects exceeding 9 inches (22.8cm) in any any dimension = one point exceeding 6 inches (15.2cm) in any dimension = two points exceeding 9 inches (22.8cm) in any dimension = three points dime
42、ns ion = four points NOTE: The following defects, when present, shall be scored 4 points in the yard by yard and overall examination, for each yard (0.9m) in which they occur : Baggy, ridgy or wavy cloth Width less than specified Poor dye penetration, mottled, streaky or cloudy Excessive neppiness O
43、bjectionable odor Holes, cuts, tears Characteristics of finish, hand, and shade not equal to the standard sample 4.4.2.2 Examination for length. 4.4.2.2.1 Individual rolls, During the yard-by-yard examination, and overall exminations, each roll in the sample shall be examined for length. Any length
44、found to be less than the minimum specified or more than two yards (1.8m) less than the length marked on the ticket shall be considered a defect with respect to length. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more rolls in the sample are defective in respect to length. 6 Provided by IHSNot for Resal
45、eNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-4.4.2.2.2 Total yardage in sample. The lot shall be unacceptable if the total of the actual lengths of rolls in the sample is less than the total of the lengths marked on the tickets. The rolls examined shall be those seleeted for
46、 the examination of individual rolls. * 4.4.2.3 Examination for shade variation. During the yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for shade variations. Any two rolls in the sample exhibiting uneven shade, shade variation side to side, side to center, or end to end shall be caus
47、e for rejection of the entire lot represented by the sample. 4.4.2.4 Examination for face identification, non-identification of pres hrinking process , and compliance with Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. During the yard-by-yard examination, each roll in the sample shall be examined for de
48、fects listed below. The lot shall be unacceptable if two or more of the following defects are present in the sample: Face identification missing from either or both ends Face identification on wrong side Preshrinkage process identified by name or trademark on cloth or ticket Not labeled or ticketed
49、in accordance with the Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act 4.4.3 Examination of packaging requirements . An examination shall be made in accordance with the provisions of PPP-P-1134 to determine whether packaging, packing, and marking comply with section 5 requirements. * 4.5 Testing of the end item. The methods of testing specified in FED-STD-191, wherever applicable, and as listed in Table II shall be followed. The physical
