1、MIL-DTL-28978C I 9999906 2054724 204 I U INCH- POUND MIL-DTL-28978C (MC) 16 October 1997 SUPERSEDING MIL-J-28978B (MC) 20 September 1994 DETAIL SPECIFICATION JACKET, MANS - EVENING DRESS (STAFF, NONCOMMISSIONED OFFICERS) This specification is approved for use by U.S. Marine Corps, Department of the
2、Navy, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1. Scope. This specification covers the requirements for a blue wool gabardine evening dress jacket. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be
3、 of use in improving this document should be addressed to the Commander (PSE-D), Marine Corps Systems Command, Quantico, VA 22134-5010 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMEN
4、T A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-28978C I 9999906 2054725 140 I MIL-DTL-28978C (MC) 1.2. Classification. The jacket will be of one type in the following sizes as spe
5、cified (see 6.2): Schedule of Sizes Short Reqular . Lon q Extra Lon q 36 36 38 38 40 40 42 42 44 44 46 36 38 40 42 44 46 36 38 40 42 44 1.3. Individual order. When the jacket is custom tailored to an individual order, this specification shall govern, except the detailed requirements of Section 3, Ta
6、ble I may be modified to the extent necessary for good custom tailoring practices. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1. General. The documents listed in this section are specified in sections 3 and 4 of this specification. This section does not include documents cited in other sections of this- specificatio
7、n or recommended for additional information or as examples. While every effort has been made to ensure the completeness of this list, document users are cautioned that they must meet all specified requirements documents cited in sections 3 and 4 of this specification, whether or not they are listed.
8、 2.2. Government documents. 2.2.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of
9、 Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-. MIL-DTL-28978C I 9799906 2054726 087 I MIL-DTL-28978C (MC) SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL
10、 A-A-5 O O 67 A-A-50 18 6 A-A-501 96 A-A-501 98 A-A-52 O 7 1 A-A-52 O 94 A-A-52 105 A-A-52 1 O 6 DDD-L-SO - Cloth, Flannel, Wool - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven - Thread, Silk - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) - Thread, C
11、otton - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic Warp, - Cloth, Twill or Plain Weave, Polyester and - Label: For Clothing, Equipage and Tentage, and Spun Hair-Wool or Rayon Filling Polyester Blend (General Use) DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-DTL-3461
12、- Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap MIL-C-10176 - Cloth, Gabardine: Wool, Polyester and Wool MIL-P-15064 - Fads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head MIL-C-29405 -1 Cloth, Broadcloth: Wool and Wool/Nylon STAN DARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 - Textile Test Methods FED-STD-751 - Stitches, Seams and Stitchings (U
13、nless otherwise indicated, copies of the above specifications, standards, handbooks are available from the Standardization Document Order Desk, 700 Robbins Avenue, Building 4D, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094. ) 2.3. Non-Government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this document to
14、the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DoDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the
15、solicitation (see 6.2). ANSI-/ASQC 21.4 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- flIL-DTL-28978C m 9997906 2054727 TL3 m MIL-DTL-28 978C (MC) (Application for copies should be ad
16、dressed to The American National Standards Institute, 11 West 42nd Street, New York, NY 10036. ) Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968. (Copies may be obtained from the Color Association of the United States, Inc., 409 W. 44th Street,
17、 New York, NY 10016-0927.) 2.4. Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has
18、 been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1. Standard sample. Standard samples are furnished solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.4). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case the specification shall govern. 3.2. First article. When specified (see 6.21
19、, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection in accordance with 4.3. 3.3. Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be cloth, gabardine, polyester/wool, dark blue, shade 2312 (see 6.3), 10.6 ounce, conforming to type II, class 12 of MIL-C-10176. 3.3.2 Lininq. The materia
20、l for lining the jacket, shall be cloth, rayon twill, black, shade 3602 (see 6.3), 3.7 ounce, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Polyester and Cotton. The stays for shoulder and armhole seams shall be cloth, polyester and cotton, black, conforming to class 1 of A-A-52106, except that the nonf
21、ibrousmaterial content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. 3.3.4 Under collar cloth. The under collar and shoulder eyelet cover cloth shall be wool flannel conforming to A-A-50067. The 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted wi
22、thout license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28978C W 9999906 2054728 5T MIL-DTL-28 97 8C (MC L color of the cloth shall be black of an approved shade to closely match the basic material. The acidity (pH) requirement and colorfastness to perspiration and crocking requirements shall not apply. 3.3.5 Collar int
23、erlininq. The material for interlining the collar shall be 2 plies of cloth; cotton, buckram, 12 ounce, conforming to type IV of A-A-50186. 3.3.6 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type I, class 2 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.7 Sleeve-head pads. The sleeve-head pads shall conform to type IV of
24、 MIL-P-15064. 3.3.8 Coat front interlininq. The material for the front interlining shall be cotton warp and hair-wool filling interlining cloth conforming to type II of A-A-52105. 3.3.9 Hancrer braid. The braid for the jacket hanger shall be cotton or rayon tubular flat braid, 1/8 to 3/16 inch wide,
25、 minimum breaking strength of not less than 50 pounds. The color of the braid shall be black. 3.3.10 Tape, cotton. The cotton tape shall be 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch widths and shall conform to type II, class 1, preshrunk of A-A-52071, except that the nonfibrous material content shall not apply - 3.3.11
26、 Pipinq. The material for piping the shoulder straps shall be cloth, broadcloth, wool, scarlet, shade 2501 (see 6.3), 16 ounce, conforming to type I or II of MIL-C-29405. 3.3.12 Thread. 3.3.12.1.Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to A-A-50196. The thread for machine sewing shall conform to t
27、ype I, ticket No. A, 3-ply for bartacks, and all outside seaming and stitching; ticket No. F, 3-ply and ticket No. B, 3-ply for buttonholes, bobbin or looper, and needle threads, respectively, and ticket No. O, 3-ply for machine felling. The threads for hand sewing shall be type III, ticket No. C, 2
28、-ply. 3.3.12.2.Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform.to A-A-52094, type III, mercerized finish, ticket No. A, 3-ply for 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-28978C I 999990b 2054729 896 MIL- DTL-2 8 9 7 8 C (MC) all ins
29、ide seaming and stitching and type II, glazed finish, ticket No. 24, 4-ply for machine tacking armholes. The thread for basting shall be good commercial grade cotton. 3.3.12.3.Syntheti.c thread. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is required to
30、be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after dry cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. 3.3.12.4.Color and colorfastness. black, sha
31、de AA, cable No. 66043, except cotton thread for basting and for machine tacking armholes may be white. The dyed thread shall show fastness to light and wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show good fastness to l
32、ight and wet (dry) cleaning. The thread for seaming lining and all inside stitching need show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning only (see DoD Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads 1968). The thread shall be dyed 3.3.13 Gimp. The buttonhole gimp shall be cotton-ticket No
33、. 8 soft or glazed finish, conforming to type I or II of A-A-50198. The color of the gimp shall be black, shade AA, cable No. 66043. The dyed gimp shall show fastness to wet (dry) cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. available, the dyed gimp shall show good fastness to wet (dry) cle
34、aning. When no standard sample is 3.3.14 Buttons. When specified (see 6.2), buttons shall be furnished with the jacket. gold plated, enlisted design, 27-line, conforming to type I, style 3, class A, subclass 2 of MIL-DTL-3461. The insignia buttons shall be metal, 3.3.14.1.Rinq toqqles. When buttons
35、are furnished, ring toggles for securing buttons to the fronts and shoulders shall conform to MIL-DTL-3461. 3.3.14.2.Linked buttons. When buttons are furnished, a pair of insignia buttons for the front closure shall be linked together with a multiple link chain conforming to MIL-DTL-3461. 6 Provided
36、 by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-DTL-28978C M 9999906 2054730 508 M MIL-DTL-2 8 97 8C (MC) 3.3.15 Labels. Each jacket shall have an identification label and a size label as follows. The jacket is intended to be dry cleaned and the label s
37、hall show fastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.15.1.Identification label. The identification label shall conform to type VI, class 1 of DDD-L-20. The content and format shall be as follows: Nomenclature: (item description) Contract number: Name of contractor: Wool Products Act information 3.3.15.2.Size lab
38、el. The size label shall conform to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20. The label shall consist of the numerical size designation specified in 1.2 followed by the letters S, R, L, or XL for Short, Regular, Long, and Extra Long as shown by the following example: 40R 3.4. Desiqn. The jacket shall be semifor
39、mfitting Marine Corps design shown in Figure 1 through 3. The fully lined jacket shall have a four-piece plain back, waist darts, and ornamental sleeve cuffs; peaked lapels and shoulder straps to button. Edges of the shoulder straps shall be piped with scarlet broadcloth. Jacket shall have three wor
40、ked eyelets on each front and one eyelet in each end of collar for detachable buttons and one buttonhole on each front for linked buttons. The jacket is designed to be held together at the front by the linked buttons. 3.5. Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished to the contractor by the Govern
41、ment. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and shall be used only as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The contractors working pattern shall be identical to the standard patterns. The standard patterns shall provide 1/4 inch seam allowance for shoulder strap seam
42、s, and for seam at the edges of the lapels and front edges of jacket; 5/8 inch seam allowance for center back seam; 3/8 inch seam allowance, except as otherwise specified in Table I for all other seams. These patterns show size, are marked for placement and cutting and are notched or marked for prop
43、er assembly of component parts. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MPL-DTL-28978C S 9799906 2054733 444 MIL-DTL-2 8 97 8C (MC ) ITEM 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. Jackets shall be cut from the materials specified herein in accordance wi
44、th the number of pattern parts indicated below. PATTERN NOMENCLATURE I NO. OF CUT PARTS 11 12 13 14 15 I Material: Cloth, gabardine, wool Front Side back Back Top sleeve Under sleeve Front Side front Side back Back Top sleeve Under sleeve Top collar Front facing Shoulder straps Sleeve cuff Material:
45、 Cloth, rayon lining 16 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 4 2 Material: Cloth, cotton interlining Collar interlining 1 17 Front interlining 2 Material: Cloth, wool flannel under collar I Material: Cloth, cotton, warp, hair-wool filling 18 19 Under collar 2 Shoulder eyelet-cover 2 Shapers 23 24 25 20 21 22 Markers Und
46、er collar stand marker Sleeve cuffs marker Front eyelet marker Working lapel shaper Under collar shaper Finished collar and lapel shaper 3.6. Manufacturinq requirements. Jacket shall be manufactured in accordance with the operations and the stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I. The
47、 contractor is not 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-DTL-28978C m 9999906 2054732 380 m MIL-DTL-2 8 97 8C (MC) required to follow the exact sequence of the operations as listed in Table I but all operations specified shall be used
48、 to manufacture the jackets. 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchinq. The stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. The number of stitches per inch as specified in Table I indicates the minimum and maximum number permitted. Ends of seams and stitching (stitch
49、type 301), when not caught in other seams or stitchings, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch; thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of break not less than 1/2 inch. 3.6.2 Shade markinq. The component parts of the jacket cut from one piece of basic material and lining material, including pairs of sleeve linings when cut from ends, and the two parts of th
