1、MIL-N-27LL3B L( 7777706 0387532 T - d - wpf MIL-N-29113B (NU) 11 February 1987 SUPERSEDING MIL-N-29 113A(SA) 8 November 1978 MILITARY SPEC IF ICATION NECKTIE WOMANS (BOW, BLACK) This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is
2、available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for one type and size of womans pre-tied black bow necktie. 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks.
3、 The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and suppl
4、ement thereto, cited in the solicitation. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-249
5、0 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC NIA FSC 8445 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release, distribution is unlimited. THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 19 PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for R
6、esaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_I_- MIL-N-271138 8Li = 7777706 0387533 1 = MIL-Pl-2 9 113B SPiiXIFICATIONS FEDERAL rm-P-71 DD-L-2 O MILITARY MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17757 MIL-C-24910 MIL-T-43548 - Pallets, Material Handling, VW, Stringer - Labels; for Clothing, E
7、quipage and Tentage (General Construction, 2 my and 4 Way (Partial) use - Pallets, Material Handling, mod Post Construction, - Box, Shipping Fiberboard (mdular Sizes) - Cloth, Tropical; Polyester and ml - Thread, mlyester, Cotton Covered and Rayon Covered 4 By Entry STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - S
8、titches, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and. Tables for Inspec-ion by MIL-STD-129 MIL-STJ3 147 - Palletized Unit Loads Attributes - Marking for Shipnent and Storage (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in connectio
9、n with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer . ) 2.1.2 Other Goverment documents, drawings, and publications. The following other Goverment docments, drawings, and publications form a part of this specification to the
10、extent specified herein. unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS U.S. POSTAL SEWICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained fran the Superintendent of Dxunents, U.S. Goverment Printing Office, Washington, Dc 20402). 2
11、 *. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- a a a * MIL-N-29113B 2.2 Other publications. The following docment(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which
12、 are mD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the IXIDISS specified in the solicitation. unless otherwise specified, the issues of dccunents not listed in the DDISS shall be the issue of the nongoverment documents which is current on the date of the solicitation. NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFF
13、IC ASSOCIATION, INC-, AGENT National Motor Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Pmerican Trucking Association, ATI“: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., mshington, Dc 20036). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITfEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application
14、 for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classifica-ion Carmiittee, Rm 1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606). DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE STANDARD COLOR CARD OF OFFICIAL STANDARDIZED SHADES FOR SEWING THREAD (Application for copies may be obtained from the Color Association of th
15、e United States, Inc., 343 Lexington Ave., New York, NY 10016). 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede ap
16、plicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations fran this specification may appear in the sample in which case this specification shal
17、l govern. 3.2 First article. When specified, the contractor shall furnish sample 3.3 Mater ia1 . unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3 and 6.2). *3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shaIl be a tropical polyester and wool blend, 10.0 - +.5 oz/lin yd cloth, shade Blue 3346, c
18、onforming to MIL-C-24910. *3.3.2 Thread. The thread used for seaming and stitching the tie shall be a covered polyester thread, ticket Nos. 50 and 70, 2 or 3 ply conforming to MIL-T-43548, shade Black AA, C.A. 66043. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lice
19、nse from IHS-,-,-I - MIL-N-29LL3B 4 W 9999906 0387535 5 W MIL-N-29113B “3.3.2.1 Color Eastness of threads. The dyed threads shall show colorfastness to laundering, wet-dry cleaning, and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. When no standard sample
20、 is available, the dyed threads shall show good colorfastness to laundering, wet-dry cleaning, and light when tested as specified in MIL-T-43548. 3.3.3 Label “3.3.3.1 Ccmbination label. Each necktie shall have a label conforming to type VI, class 4 of DDD-L-20, except that the height of the label sh
21、all be a maximum of 5/8 inch. The printing shall show fastness to laundering. The label shall bear the following inscription: NAME OF ITEM: NECKTIE, wlA“S (75% POLYESTER/25% WOOL) CONTRACT NO: DIA-100-0-00-000 (EXAMPLE) STOCK NO: 8445-00-000-0000 (EXAMPLE) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: CLEAN IN ACCORDANCE WIT
22、H POLYmL BELTED SKIRT “3.3.3.2 Hanging label. Each bow tie shall have a comnercial type plastic fastening barb (see 6.6) through the loop on the left end of the rieckband, attaching a hanging label. The ticket label shall be made of a suitable commercial cardboard and shall be legibly printed with t
23、he following information: NAME OF ITEM: NECKTIE, WENS (75% pOLyESTER/25% WOOL) CONTRACT NO: DLA-100-0-00-000 (EXAMPLE) NAME OF CONTRACTR: LAUNDERING INSTRUCTIONS MACHINE WH - PERMANENTOPRESS CYCLE IN PW WATER (120 MAX) Do NOT BLEACH TUMBLE DRY MEDIUM HEAT - REMOVE IMMEDIATELY MAY ALSO BE DRY CLEANED
24、 OR FOLW NAVEYRA MANUAL 414-01-45-81 FORMULA III 3.3.4 Hardware 3.3.4.1 Tension slide. ?he tension slide shall be nickel plated steel, 3/4 inch nominal size conforming to part number 164 of the Waterbury Buckle Cmpany, or a functionally interchangeable equivalent (see 6.4). 3.3.4.2 Eye. The eye shal
25、l be nickel plated steel, 3/4 inch ncminal size conforming to part number 295 of the Waterbury Wickle Company, or a functionally interchangeable equivalent (see 6.4 and 6.5). 3.3.4.3 Hook. The hook shall be nickel plated steel, 3/4 inch (1.9cm) naninal size conforming to part number 245 of the Water
26、bury Ruckle Canpany, or a functionally interchangeable equivalent (see 6.4 and 6.5). 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-a a a MIL-N-24LL3B 84 7999906 0387536 7 M MIL-N-2 9113B 3.4 Desi n. The necktie shall be a pre-tied bow design with
27、 an adjustable neckband + see figure 1). 3.4.1 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information purposes only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the written specification shall govern. 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Governme
28、nt (see 6.3). The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used for cutting the contractors working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts shall be cut from the material specified in 3.3.1 in accorda
29、nce with the following pattern parts which allow 3/16 to 1/4 inch for all seams except as otherwise indicated in Table I. Nomenclature of Pattern Parts Cut Parts Bow Neckband Center tie loop 2 1 1 3.6 Construction. 3.6.1 Stitch, seam, and stitching types. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified
30、in Table I shall conform to FED-STD-751. Wherever two or more methods for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams properly sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, or open seams will res
31、ult. 3.6.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings when not caught in other seams or stitchings shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or 401 stitc
32、h type thread breaks may be repaired by using 301 stitch type. 3.6.3 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in Table I. 3.7 Manufacturing operation requirements. The neckties shall be manufactured in accordance with the operation requirements spe
33、cified in Table I. The contractor is not required to follow the exact sequence of operations listed provided that the finished neckties are identical to that produced by following the sequence of operations as listed in Table I. *3.7.1 Shade and size marking. The component parts of the tie shall be
34、marked or ticketed to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the garment. Any method may be used except: (a) corrosive metal fastening devices (b) sew-on shade tickets (c) adhesive type tickets which discolor or adhere to the material upon removal of tickets. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo re
35、production or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-N-29113B NOTE: The use of ink pad numbering machine, rubber stamp or pencil is allowed, provided the numbering does not show on the outside of the garment and whenever possible, is covered by the seam allowance. *3.7.2 Abbreviations
36、 in table of operations. The abbreviations used in table I are as follows: Stch - in Ndl Bob Mchne - Brtck - Comrcl - smlr - Btnhl - incl - dbl chnstch - - - - LPr - Stitch inch Needle Bobbin Looper Machine Bartack Commercia 1 similar Buttonhole including double chainstitch 6 Provided by IHSNot for
37、ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-N-29123B 84 7797906 0387538 O - MIL-N-29113B TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF NECKTIE THREAD NO OPERATION STCH SEAM/ SEH NDLBoB/ TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR 1. Cutting. a. Cut the neckties in accordance with patterns which show shape
38、and pleat guides for proper assembly. Patterns shall be cut on the bias direction. b. Cut all component parts out of one piece of material except the neckband which may be cut from endsand shall approximate the shade of the bow. 2. Replacement of defective components. During the spreading, cutting,
39、and manufacturing process, canpnents having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in section 4 of this specification shall be removed frm production and replaced with non-defective and properly matched canpnents. 3. Shade marking. a. All parts shall be marked or ticketed to insu
40、re a uniform shade and proper assembly throughout the necktie. 4. Bow. - a. Stitch together the bow plies, face to face, 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edges, leaving an opening approximately 1-1/2 inches long at the center of one of the long edges for turning the necktie. b, Vim all pints. Turn to finis
41、hed position and force out all points. c. Turn raw edges in and stitch closed the opening at the long edge. d. Press bow snooth and flat. 7 301 or Sa-1 12-14 40 1 Hand SSc-1 12-14 or 301 50 50 50 70 50 50 50 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IH
42、S-,-,- _ MIL-N-29LL3B 84 9979906 0387539 2 I MIL-N-29113B TABLE I - CONSTRUCTION OF NECKTIE THREAD NO OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/ TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR e. Fold two 1/2 inch pleats, in accordance Hand SSv-1 12-14 50 with pleat guides on pattern, at center to or form bow and stitch across width
43、 of bow. 301 50 50 f. Bow shall finish 1-1/4 (+ 1/81 inches wide at center with pleats facingdown. 5. Center tie loop. 301 or SSa-1 a. Fold center tie loop in half lengthwise, 401 face to face. Stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from raw edges along length and one end. b. Trim point. Turn to finished position
44、and force out points. Press. c. Wrap tie loop around center of bow, Hand LSa-1 lapping finished end over raw end 3/8 to 1/2 inch and stitch loop closed. d. Tie loop shall finish 1 (+ - 1/16) inch wide. 12-14 50 50 50 70 12-14 50 b. Neckband. a. The finished neckband shall measure 5/8 to 7/8 inch wid
45、e and 20-3/4 (+ - 1) inch long without installed hardware. b. Fold neckband in half in accordance with 301 or EFs-2 or 12-14 50 50 any of the specified seam types. Stitch 1/16 401 EFp-1 or 50 50 to 1/ inch from the folded edges and, when EFu-1 applicable, 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the raw edges. NOTE: A
46、s an alternate to the above 6b any other method of fabrication (including off the roll) that does not leave visual raw edges, cover-stitching, or too much bulk will be acceptable. c. Press flat. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-N
47、-29113B TABLE I - CONSTKUCTION OF NECKTIE THREAD NO. OPERATION STCH SEAM/ STCH NDL BOB/ TYPE STCH TYPE IN LPR *7. Install hardware on neckband. a. Thread left end (as worn) of neckband through slider, over center bar and back through adjacent slider hole. Fold neckband back 1 (+ 1/2) inch, turn unde
48、r end approximately 1/4 inch and stitch across width through all plies 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge. b. Thread hook eye through left end (as worn) of neckband. C. Thread remaining end of neckband through slider hole over center bar and back through adjacent slide hole. d. Thread right end (as w
49、orn) of neckband through hook, so that hook opening is on outside when finished. Fold neckband back 1-1/2 (+ 1/2) inch, turn under approximately 1/4 inch and stitch across width through all plies 1/8 to 3/16 inch from folded edge. NOTE: The finished side of neckband to be outer surface when worn. Hook opening to be on the finished side. 8. Attach label. Position label on underside of nec
