1、MIL-T-87038D 84 7779706 0435305 2 MIL-T-87038D(IW) 21 MAY 1990 SUPERSEDING 1 December 1986 MIL-T-87038C(NU) MILITARY SPECIFICATION TROUSERS, MENS (BLUE, mISTED) This specification is approved for use by the Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, Department of the Navy, and is available for use
2、 by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for mens wool serge trousers. 1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be of one type in the following sizes and lengths (see 6.2). 1.2.1 Sizes. 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33,
3、 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48 and. 1.2.2 Lengths. Extra-Short, Short, Regular, Long, and Extra-Long 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be
4、addressed to: Officer in Charge, Navy Clothing and Textile Research Facility, 21 Strathmore Road, Natick, MA 01760-2490 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 - . - - - . - -_- DIS
5、TRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is un1 imi ted. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ MIL-T-8703D 4 W 7777706 0435106 4 W 2.1.1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifications, stand
6、ards and handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shail be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defence Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (
7、see 6.2). SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-T-276 V-T-280 V-T-295 * NN-P-71 CCC-C-438 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 MILITARY * MIGC-368 MIL-C-823 * MIL-P-15011 MIL-B-17143 MIL-517757 MIL-C-21852 * MIL-T-43548 * MIL-C-43718 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 * MIL-STD-147 MIL-STD-1488 * MIL-ST
8、D-2073-1 * MIL-STD-2073-2 - Thread, Cotton - Thread, Cotton, Girnp, Buttonhole - Thread, Nylon - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer - Cloth, Buckram, Cotton - Label; for Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage (General - Tape, Textile, Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Construction, 2 Way and 4 Wa
9、y (Partial) Use Bleached or Dyed) - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Cloth, Serge, Wool; Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool - Pallet, Material Handling, Wood, Post Construction, - Button, Insignia (Anchor, Plastic, Black) - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (Modular Sizes) - Cloth, Taffeta, N
10、ylon - Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or - Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton;*Polyester 4 Way Entry Polyester-Covered and Rayon, for Pockets - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Load -
11、 Provisions for hraluating Quality of Trousers - DoD Materials Procedures for Development and - Packaging Requirement Codes Attributes Application of Packaging Requirements 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-87038D 84 7777906 043
12、5107 b W * (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and miltary specifications, standards and handbooks are available from the Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 0, 500 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094). * 2.1.2 Other Government documents, drawings, and publications. The fo
13、llowing other Government documents, drawings, and publications form a gart of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues are those cited in the solicitation. U.S. POSTAL SERVICE MANUAL (Copies of the manual may be obtained from the Superintendent of Document
14、s, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402.) * 2.2 Non-government publications. The following document(s) form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issue of documents which are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of t
15、he WDISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the WDISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). NATIONAL MOTOR FREIGHT TRAFFIC ASSOCIATION, INC., AGENT National Motor Freight Classification . . i (Applications for c
16、opies should be addressed to the American Trucking Association, ATTN: Traffic Department, 1616 P Street, N.W., Washington, DC 20036-1404). UNIFORM CLASSIFICATION COMMITTEE, AGENT Uniform Freight Classification (Application for copies should be addressed to the Uniform Classification Committee, Room
17、1106, 222 South Riverside Plaza, Chicago, Illinois 60606-5808). THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense Standard Shades for Buttons Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads (Application for copies of color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of
18、 the U.S., 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, Ny 10016). *( Non-government standards and other puHications are normally available from the organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. The documents also may be available in or through librairies or other informational services.) 3 Provided by
19、 IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-703D 4 777770b 04351108 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this docu
20、ment, however, supersedes applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, i
21、n which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified (see 6.2,) the contractor shall furnish 3.3 Materials. 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the trousers shall be a 15 ounce wool serge, shade Blue 3346 conforming to type I, class 5 of MIL-C-823. The piece no. s
22、hall be 89096. sample unit(s) for first article inspection and approval (see 4.3). 3.3.2 Pockets and linings. The material for the pocket, waistband lining and front broadfall lining shall be a twill cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718. The color shall be black 423. * 3.3.3 Binding. The mater
23、ial for binding shall be a nylon taffeta cloth Conforming to type IV of MIL-C-21852. As an alternate, a rayon binding may be use and shall conform to class 1 of MIL-(2-368. The color shall be black. The binding shall be cut on a 45 (+ 5) degree angle in strips of 7/8 to 1 inch wide. The ends of the
24、strips shall be joined together by stitch type 301 and the seam type SSa-1 with 10-12 stitches per inch. 3.3.4 Tape. The tape for the hanger loops and reinforcing the front crotch and seat seam shall be cotton, 1/2 or 5/8 inch wide, dyed black, conforming to type I, class 3, of DDD-T-86. Colorfastne
25、ss to bleaching is not required. * 3.3.5 Lace. The lace for the back opening shall conform to the following requirements (see 4.4.1): Yarn Braid Color Colorfastness Weight Breaking strength Length Width Plastic tips - Polyester, 150 denier, continuous filament - Flat, non-tubular, 33 carriers, 2 or
26、3 ends per carrier, 26 picks per inch (min) - Black - Good to perspiration, wet-dry cleaning, light, and laundering, and crocking not greater than 3.0 - 6.25 ounces (177.1 grams) per 100 laces (min) - 45 pounds (200.2 N)(min) - 37 (+ 1) inches - 10/32 (+ 1/32) inch - Both Ends, 3/4 inch long, black
27、cellulose acetate or cellulose butyrate sheeting 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-* 3.3.7.1 Colorfastness. The colored gimp shall show fastness to wet-dry cleaning equal or better to the standard sample. As a -limit of acceptability,
28、 or when no standard sample is available, the colored gimp shall show a minimum of “good“ colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning. 3.3.8 Buttons. The buttons for the front broadfall shall be plastic, insignia, sewing hole type, 25-line, anchor emblem, Black Shade BT, Cable No. 62001 in accordance with the
29、 Standard Shade for Buttons, and shall conform to class 1 Of MIL-B-17143. 5 MIL-T-8703BD 84 m 9999906 0435109 T 3.3.6 Thread. * 3.3.6.1 Thread, polyester, covered. The thread used for stitching and seaming the trousers shall ba COOR or rayon covered polyester thread conforming to the requirements of
30、 NIL-2143548. The use of polyester covered polyester thread is prohibited. The thread shall be shade Black AA, Cable No. 66043 conf01fming to the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads and in the followhg sizes: 5 ration P 1 Ceaming, stitc ing, tac ing or 3 Overedging 70 2 or 3 But
31、ton sewing 30 . 2or3 3.3.6.2 Thread, cotton. As an alternate to the covered polyester thread, a cotton thread conforming to V-T-276, type I, may be used. Ehe color shall be the same as specified above in the following types and sizes. bartacking an buttonholes pe ration Type Ticket No. Ply Seaming a
32、nd IA3 50, 70 3 Ove redg i ng IA3 70 2- Tacking IC2 O 3 stitching 3.3.6.3 Automatic button sewing. If an automatic machine which sews and shanks (wraps) the buttons in one operation is used, the thread shall be waxed nylon monocord special No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds and a
33、 minimum length per pound of 2150 yards, and shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness (3.3.6.4) in accordance with test methods in V-T-295. The color shall be as stated in 3.3.6,l. * 3.3.6.4 Colorfastness. The dyed threads shall show colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning, perspiratio
34、n and light equal to or better than the standard sample when tested as specified in V-T-276, V-“-295 or MIL-T-43548. As a limt of acceptability, or when no standard sample is available, the thread shall show a minim of “good“ colorfastness to wet-dry cleaning, perspiration and light when tested as s
35、pecified in V-T-276, V-T-295 or MIL-T-43548. 3.3.7 Gimp. The gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall be cotton, No. 8 conforming to type I or II of V-T-280. The color shall match Black shade AA, Cable No. 66043 in accordance with the Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads. Provided
36、by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ - MIL-T-8703D 4 W 7777706 0435LLO b W MIL-T-87038D(NU) 3.3.9 Combination label. Each pair of trousers shall have a combination identification, instruction and personal label conforming to Type VI, classes 10 a
37、nd 15 of DDD-4-LO. The fastness to wet-dry cleaning requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. The inscription and format for the trousers shall be as folaows: NAME: SERVICE NO. : TROUSERS, MENS, (BLUE, ENLISTED) FIBER CO“: 100% WOOL CONTRACT No.: DLA 100-00-0-0000 (Example) NAME OF CONTRACTOR: NAME OF M
38、ANUFACTURER: (If other than contractor) CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS DRY CLEAN ONLY DO NOT RENOVE THIS LABEL PRESS GARMENTS INSIDE OUT 3.3.9.1 Size label. A separate size label conforming to type VI, class 2 of DDD-L-20 shall indicate the size and stock number as follows: STOCK NO. : 8405-00-000-0000 (Exam
39、ple) SIZE: 34 R (Example) Note; The lengths (Extra-Short, Short, Regular, Long, and Extra-Long) may be abbreviated as XS, S, R, L, or XL. 3.3.9.2 Removable size ticket. Each trouser shall have a comercial type size ticket attached to the outside of the waistband, centered on the left back. The ticke
40、t shall be 3 inches long and 1 inch high, made of a suitable plain white cardboard. The corners of the ticket may be double perforated for ease in tacking, The size (38R - Example) shall be printed or stamped on the upper left hand corner in black or blue ink. The lettering for the size shall be 1/4
41、 inch in height. Abbreviations for Lengths shall be allowed in accordance with 3.3.9.1. The trousers shall have a 13-button broadfall front opening, a front pockets, one horizontal hanging hip pocket, bell bottomslegs with no outseams (one piece leg). 3.4.1 Figure. The figure is furnished for inform
42、ation purposes only. When inconsistencies exist between the specification and the figure, the specification shall govern. c laced 3*4 plac Y?- et type opening at the waist on center back, two horizontal hanging Leg bottoms shall be overedged (see figure 1). 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduc
43、tion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-703D 4 m 7779906 0435LLL 8 m MIL-T-87038D(NU) * 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut: working patterns will be furnished by the Government (see 6.3). The patterns allow 3/8 inch seam allowance for all seams, except as other
44、wise indicated in Table II. The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns. Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except that additional notches for use during construction are allowed on the working patterns. Also, minor modificati
45、ons are permitted when using automatic eqaipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability, or appearance requirements cited in the specification. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from materials as specified and in accordance with the pattern parts required
46、 for the manufacturing process as follows: 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. TABLE I - List of Pattern Parts NOMENCLATURE OF MATERIAL PATTERN PARTS CUT PARTS Basic Material Leg - front and back (1-piece) 2 Broadfall facing 1 Waistband 2 Facing (back-placket opening) 2 Gusset (back opening) 1 Front pocket
47、 facings 2 Back pocket facing (right side) 1 (optional) 2 Twill cloth Broadfall facing lining 1 Waistband lining 2 Front pocket 2 Back pocket 1 Markers and shaper Buttonhole (broadfall) - (templates) “V“ stitch marker ( broadfall ) - “V“ stitch marker (gusset) - Crotch piece (size 32 and up) 3.6 Con
48、struction. 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_- MIL-T-703D 4 7777706 0435112 T M * 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. Stitch, seam, and stitching types specified in Table II shall conform to FED-STD-751. Whenever two or more metho
49、ds for seam or stitch types are given for the same part of the operation any one of them may be used. Seam allowance shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, puckers or open seams result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. Where stitch type 401 is used, the looper (underthread) shall b
