1、110 TM 88B-2006 AATCC Technical Manual/2007Developed in 1962 by AATCC Commit-tee RA61; reaffirmed 1969, 1973; edito-rially revised 1974, 1983, 1985, 1986,1991, 1997, 2004, 2005; editorially re-vised and reaffirmed 1978, 1984, 2001;revised 1970, 1975, 1981, 1989 (withtitle change), 1992, 1996, 2003,
2、2006.Technically equivalent to ISO 7770.1. Purpose and Scope1.1 This test method is designed toevaluate the smoothness appearance ofseams in fabrics after repeated homelaundering.1.2 Any washable fabric may be evalu-ated for seam smoothness using thismethod.1.3 Fabrics of any construction, such aswo
3、ven, knit and nonwoven, may be eval-uated according to this method.1.4 Techniques for seaming are notoutlined, since the purpose is to evaluatefabrics as they will be supplied frommanufacturing or as ready for use. Fur-thermore, seaming techniques would becontrolled by fabric properties.2. Principle
4、2.1 Seamed fabric specimens are sub-jected to standard home laundering prac-tices. A choice is provided of hand or ma-chine washing, alternative machine washcycles and temperatures and alternativedrying procedures. Evaluation is per-formed using a standard lighting andviewing area by rating the appe
5、arance ofspecimens in comparison with appropri-ate reference standards.3. Terminology3.1 ballast, n.in procedures for pro-cessing or testing of textiles, material thatis used to bring the total weight or vol-ume of the textiles to an amount specifiedin the procedure.3.2 durable press, adj.having the
6、ability to retain substantially the initialshape, flat seams, pressed-in creases andunwrinkled appearance during use andafter laundering or drycleaning.3.3 laundering, n.of textile materi-als, a process intended to remove soilsand/or stains by treatment (washing) withan aqueous detergent solution an
7、d nor-mally including rinsing, extracting anddrying.3.4 laundering creases, n.sharpfolds or lines running in any direction in awashed or dried specimen.NOTE: Laundering creases are an un-intended result of restricted movement ofspecimens in the washer or the dryer.3.5 seam smoothness, n.in fabrics,t
8、he visual impression of planarity of aseamed specimen quantified by compari-son with a set of reference standards.4. Safety PrecautionsNOTE: These safety precautions arefor information purposes only. The pre-cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-dures and are not intended to be all inclu-sive.
9、 It is the users responsibility to usesafe and proper techniques in handlingmaterials in this test method. Manufac-turers MUST be consulted for specificdetails such as material safety data sheetsand other manufacturers recommenda-tions. All OSHA standards and rulesmust also be consulted and followed
10、.4.1 Good laboratory practices shouldbe followed. Wear safety glasses in alllaboratory areas.4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Detergent and the 2003 AATCCStandard Reference Liquid Detergentmay cause irritation. Care should betaken to prevent exposure to skin andeyes.4.3 All chemicals should be
11、 handledwith care.4.4 Manufacturers safety recommen-dations should be followed when operat-ing laboratory testing equipment.5. Uses and Limitations5.1 This test method is designed to beused only for evaluating the appearanceof washable seamed fabrics after repeatedhome laundering.5.2 The test proced
12、ure is designed toreflect the capabilities of home laundryequipment which is currently used byconsumers. In general, it is preferable toconduct the test under relatively severelaundering conditions.5.3 Prints and patterns may mask themussiness present in seamed fabrics. Therating process is, however
13、, based on thevisual appearance of specimens includingsuch effects.5.4 The small specimen sizes used forfabric tests occasionally will cause wrin-kles or creases (dryer creases) to developwhich are not considered to be character-istic of fabric performance in use. Pre-cautions are given in the text
14、of themethod to reduce the occurrence of dryercreases.5.5 The interlaboratory reproducibilityof the results of this test method dependsupon mutual agreement by users of themethod on the washing and drying condi-tions as outlined in 8.1.6. Apparatus and Materials6.1 Automatic washing machine (see12.1
15、).6.2 Automatic tumble dryer (see 12.1).6.3 Drip dry and line dry facilities.6.4 A 9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail.6.5 1993 AATCC Standard ReferenceDetergent or 2003 AATCC Standard Ref-erence Liquid Detergent (see 12.2 and12.8).6.6 Ballast of 92 92 3 cm (36 36 1 in.) hemmed pieces of bleached cot-ton sheeting
16、(Wash load ballast type 1) or50/50 polyester/cotton plain weave(Wash load ballast type 3) (see 12.3).6.7 Lighting and evaluation area in anotherwise darkened room using the over-head lighting arrangement shown in Fig.1 (see 12.4). It has been the experience ofmany observers that light reflected from
17、the side walls near the viewing board caninterfere with the rating results. It is rec-ommended that the side walls be paintedmatte black (85 gloss less than 5 units)or that blackout curtains be mounted onboth sides of the viewing board to elimi-nate the reflective interference.6.8 Standard AATCC Pho
18、tographicSeam Smoothness Replicas prepared forrating single- and double-needle seams(see Fig. 2 and 12.2). The reproductionshown in Fig. 2 should not be used forrating.6.9 Steam or dry iron with appropriatefabric temperature settings.6.10 Detergent (for hand wash).6.11 Scale with at least 5 kg or 10
19、 lbcapacity.7. Test Specimens7.1 Three representative 38 38 cm(15 15 in.) fabric specimens cut parallelto the fabric length and width are pre-pared. Where possible, each specimenshould contain different groups of length-wise and widthwise yarns. The speci-mens should be marked to indicate thelengthw
20、ise direction. If fraying is ex-pected in laundering, see 12.5.7.1.1 The seam specimens are preparedas in 7.1 so that existing seams runthrough the middle of each specimen af-ter it is cut in the fabric length direction.If the fabric is wrinkled, it may beAATCC Test Method 88B-2006Smoothness of Seam
21、s in Fabrics after Repeated Home LaunderingCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-AATCC Technical Manual/2007 TM 88B-2006 111smoothed by appropria
22、te ironing prior tolaundering (see Safe Ironing TemperatureGuide in ASTM D 2724, Standard TestMethods for Bonded, Fused and Lami-nated Apparel Fabrics, and 12.6). Careshould be taken to avoid altering qualityof the seam itself.8. Procedure8.1 Tables II, III and IV summarize thealternate washing and
23、drying conditionsand settings. Additional information onthe machine and laundering conditionsmay be found in the monograph, Stan-dardization of Home Laundry Test Con-ditions, elsewhere in this TECHNICALMANUAL.8.1.1 It is recognized that special cy-cles or features are available on currentwashing mac
24、hines and dryers to achieveimproved performance on certain items;i.e., gentle cycles with reduced agitationto protect delicately constructed items,and durable press cycles, with cool-downor cold rinses and reduced spin speeds, tominimize wrinkling. In evaluating seamappearance, however, the more sev
25、ereNormal or Cotton Sturdy machine cycleis considered most appropriate. If modifi-cations to any of the cycles (see 8.2) areused, these must be reported in the results(see Section 10).8.2 Standard washing.8.2.1 Hand Wash(see 12.7). Dis-solve 20.0 0.1 g of 1993 AATCC Stan-dard Reference Detergent or
26、30.3 0.1 gof 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liq-uid Detergent in 7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02 gal) of water at 41 3C (105 5F)in a 9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail and then add thethree fabric test specimens. Wash for 2.0 0.1 min with no twisting or wringing.Rinse once using 7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02 gal) of water at 41 3
27、C (105 5F). Remove the specimens and dry byProcedure C, Drip (see 8.3.3).8.2.2 Machine WashUse specifiedwater level, the selected water tempera-ture for the washing cycle and a rinsetemperature of less than 29C (85F). Ifthis rinse temperature is not attainable,record available rinse temperature.8.2.
28、3 Add 66 0.1 g of 1993 AATCCStandard Reference Detergent or 100 0.1 g of 2003 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Liquid Detergent. In soft water areasthis may be reduced to avoid excessivesudsing, but in that case the amountshould be stated in the report of testresults.8.2.4 Add test specimens and enoughball
29、ast to make a 1.8 0.06 kg (4.00 0.13 lb) load. Set the washer for the se-lected washing cycle and time (see TablesII and III). Normal or Cotton Sturdy isrecommended. For very critical evalua-tion and in arbitration, limit the numberof specimens per washer load to thosefrom one sample.8.2.5 For speci
30、mens to be dried by Pro-cedures A, B or D, allow washing to pro-ceed automatically through the final spincycle. Remove the test specimens imme-diately after the final spin cycle, separatetangled pieces, taking care to minimizedistortion and dry by Procedure A, B orD (see Tables II and IV).Fig. 1Ligh
31、ting equipment for viewing test specimens.Materials list: (a) Two 8-ft Type F96 CW (Cool White) preheat Rapid Start fluorescent lamps (without baffleor glass), (b) One white enamel reflector (without baffle or glass), (c) One general type swatch mount, springloaded. Fabricate using light sheet metal
32、 (22 ga), (d) One in. plywood mounting board painted to matchNo. 2 gray chip on AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.A. For single needle seams. B. For double needle seams.Fig. 2AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas.Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS
33、under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-112 TM 88B-2006 AATCC Technical Manual/20078.2.6 For specimens to be dried by Pro-cedure C, Drip Dry, remove the speci-mens from the washer just before thewater begins to drain for the final r
34、insecycle. Remove specimens soaking wet.8.2.7 Washer creases. Specimens maybe in a folded or creased state after wash-ing. Such folds or creases should be re-moved by hand prior to drying.8.3 Drying.8.3.1 (A) Tumble Dry. Place thewashed load (test specimens and ballast)in the tumble dryer and set th
35、e tempera-ture control to generate the correct ex-haust temperatures as specified in TableIV. For fibers that are heat sensitive,lower temperatures consistent with pro-ducers recommendations are required,and must be reported. Operate the dryeruntil the total load is dry. Remove theload immediately a
36、fter the machine stops.Avoid overdrying. Static cling becomes aproblem with overdrying, particularlywith lightweight fabrics, because it pre-vents the specimens from tumbling freely.8.3.2 (B) Line Dry. Hang each fabricspecimen by two corners with the fabriclength in the vertical direction. Allowspec
37、imens to hang in still air at roomtemperature until dry.8.3.3 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drippingwet fabric specimen by two corners withthe fabric length in the vertical direction.Allow specimens to hang in still air atroom temperature until dry.8.3.4 (D) Screen Dry. Spread eachspecimen on a horizontal
38、 screen or perfo-rated surface, removing wrinkles but notdistorting or stretching the specimen. Al-low the specimens to dry in still air atroom temperature.8.3.5 Laundering creases. If speci-mens are folded or creased after any dry-ing cycle but the last, they should be re-wet and an attempt made to
39、 remove thecreases by ironing with a hand iron at atemperature suitable for the fabric beingtested, prior to the specimens being sub-jected to additional washing and dryingcycles. No attempt to remove wrinkles orcreases by hand ironing should be madeafter the final drying cycle.8.4 Repeat the select
40、ed washing anddrying cycles four more times or to anagreed number of cycles.8.5 Prior to evaluation, preconditionand then condition test specimens as di-rected in ASTM D 1776, Standard Prac-tice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles(see 12.6). Condition the test specimensfor a minimum of 4 h in the
41、standard at-mosphere for textile testing 21 1C (70 2F) and 65 2% RH, hanging eachspecimen from two corners with the fab-ric length in vertical direction to avoiddistortion.9. Evaluation9.1 Three trained observers should rateeach test specimen independently.9.2 The overhead fluorescent lightshould be
42、 the only light source for theviewing board. All other lights in theroom should be turned off.9.3 The observer is to stand directly infront of the specimen 120 3 cm (4 ft 1 in.) away from the board. It has beenfound that normal variations in the heightof the observer above and below the arbi-trary 1
43、.5 m (5.0 ft) eye level have no sig-nificant effect on the grade given.9.4 Mount the test specimen on theviewing board with the seam in the verti-cal direction. Place the appropriate sin-gle- or double-needle standard seamsmoothness (SS) replicas beside the spec-imen to facilitate comparative rating
44、.9.5 Confine observations to the area in-fluenced by the seam and disregard theappearance of the surrounding fabric.9.6 Assign the numerical grade of thephotographic standard which most nearlymatches the appearance of the seam inthe test specimen.9.7 A seam smoothness grade of SS-5is equivalent to t
45、he appearance of Stan-dard No. 5, the best level of seam appear-ance; a seam smoothness grade of SS-1 isequivalent to that of Standard No. 1,which represents a very poor level ofseam appearance.10. Report10.1 Seam smoothness in fabric.10.1.1 Average the nine observationsmade on each test fabric (thr
46、ee grades oneach of three test specimens). Report theaverage to the nearest tenth of a grade.This average is the unit of measure of thistest method.10.1.2 Report whether single- or double-needle seams were rated.10.2 State washing procedure (Arabicnumber and Roman numeral) and dryingprocedure (capit
47、al letter and subscript)from Table II, the detergent used (powderor liquid), as well as type of wash loadballast (Arabic number). Any deviationsfrom stated procedures, such as use of amodified wash cycle, a reduced amountof detergent or a higher than usual loadlimit, should be explained completely.T
48、able IWash Load Ballast: Finished Fabric SpecificationFiber ContentWash Load BallastType 1100% CottonWash Load BallastType 350/50 3% poly/cottonYarns 16/1 ring spun 30/2 ring spunFabric Construction 52 ( 2) 48 ( 2) 48 ( 2) 48 ( 2)Fabric Weight 155 5 g/m2(4.55 0.15 oz/yd2)155 5 g/m2(4.55 0.15 oz/yd2)
49、Piece Size 92.0 92.0 3 cm(36.0 36.0 1 in.)92.0 92.0 3 cm(36.0 36.0 1 in.)Piece Weight 130 10 g 130 10 gTable IIAlternative Washing and Drying Conditions (see 8.1)Machine Cycle Wash Temperatures Drying ProceduresHand, in pail (III) 41 3C (105 5F) (A) Tumble:(1) Normal/Cotton Sturdy (IV) 49 3C (120 5F) i. iiCotton Sturdy(2) Delicate (V) 60 3C (140 5F) ii. iDelicate(3) Permanent Press iii. Permanent Press(B) Line(C
