1、Designation: D 3181 95 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Guide forConducting Wear Tests on Textiles1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3181; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A nu
2、mber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This guide is designed to provide data on which aprediction can be based concerning the expected wear perfor-mance of a wide variety of t
3、extiles in end-use conditions.1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitation
4、s prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 1335 Test Method for Tuft Bind of Pile Yarn FloorCoveringsD 2051 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers toLaunderingD 2052 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry-cleaningD 2057 Test Me
5、thod for Colorfastness of Zippers to Laun-deringD 2058 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers toDrycleaningD 3511 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush PillingTesterD 3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-lated Surface
6、 Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random TumblePilling TesterD 3514 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Elastomeric PadD 3884 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics(Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)D 3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistan
7、ce of TextileFabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)D 3886 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)D 3936 Test Method for Resistance to Delamination of theSecondary Backing of Pile Yarn Floor CoveringD 3938 Guide for Determining or Confirming Care Instruc-ti
8、ons for Apparel and Other Textile ProductsD 3939 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics(Mace)D 4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of TextileFabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)D 4231 Practice for Evaluation of Launderable WovenDress Shirts and Sports ShirtsD 4390 Practice for the Eval
9、uation of the Performance ofTerry Bathroom Products for Household Use3D 4721 Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Ma-chine Washable and Drycleanable Bedcoverings and Ac-cessoriesD 4852 Practice for Evaluation of Attached UpholsteryFabrics2.2 AATCC Standards:5 Evaluation Procedure: Subjectiv
10、e Evaluation of FabricHand48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method488B Appearance of Seams in Wash-and-Wear Items AfterHome Laundering488C Appearance of Creases in Wash-and-Wear Items AfterHome Laundering496 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles (Excluding Wool)
11、4119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): ScreenWire Method4120 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): EmeryMethod4121 Carpet Soiling: Visual Rating Method4122 Carpet Soiling: Service Soiling Method4123 Carpet Soiling: Accelerated Soiling Method4124 Appearance of Fabrics After Repeat
12、ed Home Launder-ings4128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method4130 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method41This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles andis the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.53 on Practices.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Publi
13、shed October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1973. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D 3181 95 (2002).2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standa
14、rds Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.4Annual AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association ofTextile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.1Copyrigh
15、t ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven Garments4158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroeth-ylene: Machine Method4163 Color Fastness: Dye Transfer in Storage: Fa
16、bric-to-Fabric42.3 Other Documents:Knit Upholstery Fabric Standards and Guidelines5Woven Upholstery Fabric Standards and Guidelines63. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 control textile, na textile having a known history,the performance of which in a specific end-use has beenestablished previously, an
17、d which is used as a standard ofcomparison.3.1.2 end-use, nin wear testing, the use for which a textileis intended.3.1.3 evaluation period, nthe period of time an item isused before being evaluated on the specific performanceproperties.3.1.4 grade, nin textile testing, the symbol for any step ofa mu
18、ltistep standard reference scale, for a quality characteris-tic.3.1.4.1 DiscussionThe grade is assigned to test specimenexhibiting a degree of the quality comparable to that step of thestandard. Numerical grades assigned to different specimensfrom a sample, or by different observers are commonlyaver
19、aged (AATCC).3.1.5 participant, n in wear testing, any individual thatuses a test or control textile during a wear test.3.1.5.1 DiscussionThe term does not include additionalpersonnel contributing other services needed to carry out a test.3.1.6 performance property, n in wear testing, any chemi-cal
20、or physical property of a fiber, yarn, or fabric that isevaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles.3.1.7 rating, nin textile testing, the process for determin-ing or assigning a grade to a material by comparing it to astandard reference scale.3.1.8 wear level, nthe number of wear-refurbishing cyc
21、lesto which an item has been subjected.3.1.9 wear-refurbishing cycle, nfor a specific wear testingprogram, one complete series of events that may be terminatedby laundering or dry cleaning.3.1.9.1 DiscussionA description of a wear-refurbishingcycle usually includes the number of hours worn or used a
22、ndthe number of wearing or uses an item receives prior torefurbishing (that is, laundering or drycleaning), or both.3.1.10 wear-service condition, nthe specific conditionsunder which a textile is used.3.1.11 wear test, na test in which textiles are subjected towear-service conditions and evaluated f
23、or performance.3.1.12 For definitions of other textile terms used in thispractice, refer to Terminology D 123.4. Summary of Guide4.1 Textiles are subjected to actual wear under serviceconditions. This practice recommends a control textile havinga known wear performance history to be included with ot
24、heritems being tested. Statistical methods for design of test andanalysis of data are included that are applicable to all weartests. Standard procedures for evaluation of textiles are pro-vided.5. Significance and Use5.1 This guide may be used to evaluate textiles used inapparel, upholstered furnitu
25、re, floor coverings, window treat-ments, and bed, bath and table linens.5.2 This guide may be used for several purposes:5.2.1 To determine the comparative performance of new orexisting products,5.2.2 To determine the suitability of current products indifferent end-uses, and5.2.3 To evaluate and comp
26、are the effect of wear of con-struction details as well as specific fabrics, fibers, dyeings,finishing, fabrication techniques, etc.5.3 This guide provides for flexibility in design and evalu-ation since the information sought from each wear test willvary (see Appendix X1).5.4 This guide may be used
27、 to compare the wear perfor-mance of two or more textiles when these are included in thesame test, or to compare a textile whose properties have notbeen evaluated with one having a known performance history.6. Apparatus6.1 Viewing Board, with standard lighting, as specified inAATCC 124.6.2 Smoothnes
28、s Appearance Replicas, as specified inAATCC 124.6.3 Gray Scale for Color Change, as specified in AATCCEvaluation Procedure 1.76.4 Soil Release Replicas, as specified inAATCC 130-1981.6.5 Pilling Standards, as specified in Test Method D 3512.6.6 Seam Puckering Standards, as specified in AATCC88B-1984
29、.6.7 Crease Retention Standards, as specified in AATCC88C.6.8 Photographic Standards for Evaluating Shirt Compo-nents (collar, pocket, placket), as specified in Practice D 4231.6.9 Work Sheets, to record data (see Fig. 1).7. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens7.1 Division into LotsFor accep
30、tance testing, divide theproduct into lots as agreed upon between the purchaser and thesupplier.7.2 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of shipping cartons directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement betweenthe purchaser and the supplier.
31、5Issued in 1982 by the Joint-Industry Fabric Standards Committee. Availablefrom the American Furniture Mfrs. Assc., P. O. Box Hp-7, High Point, NC 27261.6Re-issued in 1986 by the Joint-Industry Fabric Standards Committee.Availablefrom the American Furniture Mfrs. Assc., P. O. Box Hp-7, High Point, N
32、C 27261.7This is the same as ISO R105/1, Part 2.D 3181 95 (2008)2NOTE 1A realistic specification or other agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variabilitybetween shipping cartons, between items within a carton, and betweenspecimens within an item so as to
33、provide a sampling plan which has ameaningful producers risk, meaningful consumers risk, acceptablequality level, and limiting quality level.7.3 Laboratory SampleAs a laboratory sample for accep-tance testing, take at least two items from each shipping cartonin the lot sample.7.4 Test SpecimensTake
34、test specimens from each item inthe laboratory sample as directed in the individual test methodsor as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.Perform each test on the product as it will reach the consumer.8. Procedure8.1 Decide on the type and design of the textile to be tested.8.2 Define
35、 the objectives of the test clearly.8.3 List the information to be obtained from the test.8.4 Select the performance properties that must be evaluatedto obtain the necessary information. See Table 1.8.5 Decide which specific areas of the textile will beevaluated for each property. See Table 2.8.6 Es
36、tablish how each performance property will be evalu-ated and what rating scale will be used.8.7 For each performance property, decide what test valueor grade will constitute a satisfactory or unsatisfactory perfor-mance to meet the objectives of the test (see Note 2).NOTE 2These values are establish
37、ed based on experience and mayvary with end use. There are generally accepted techniques or referencesfor establishing these values.8.8 Identify which evaluation procedures are destructiveand nondestructive. Nondestructive evaluations can occur dur-ing the total wear period at predetermined times. D
38、estructiveevaluations should occur at the end of the total wear period,unless additional textile items are included in the initial weartest plan for withdrawal and destructive testing.8.9 Establish the wear period at which time the test isterminated automatically.8.10 Alternatively, establish the pe
39、rcentage of specimensthat must fail to constitute overall unsatisfactory performance.Terminate the test when the established level for failure hasbeen reached (see Note 2).8.11 Establish the number of wear-refurbishing cycles thatwill constitute overall satisfactory performance. The wear testmay be
40、terminated at this point even though no specimen mayhave failed.8.12 Define the use-refurbishing cycle by establishing thenumber of hours (days) worn or used, and the number of usesthe textile will receive before refurbishing, or both, and themethod by which the item will be refurbished.8.13 Select
41、a suitable control textile to include in the test asa standard of comparison.8.14 Based on the number of conditions being tested, aswell as the time and cost involved, develop a suitable designfor the wear test (see Appendix X1).8.15 Decide on, and arrange for, the number of participantsneeded to co
42、nduct the test according to the selected plan.8.16 Determine the exact sizes of the garments or othertextiles required for each participant.Wear Test Identification Number _Wear Level _Fabric Identification _PARTICIPANTS12345678910etc.Evaluation DateTimes WornHours WornTimes RefurbishedAbrasionBaggi
43、ngColor ChangeCrease RetentionDimensional StabilityFabric SmoothnessHoles% Length Change% Width ChangePillingSeam PuckeringSnaggingWashdown (Hand)Wear WrinklingEtc.FIG. 1 Wear Test Work SheetD 3181 95 (2008)38.17 Decide on the style, color, etc., of the textiles to bewear tested to reach the objecti
44、ve.8.18 When garments or other textiles are manufactured,determine the necessary yardage and provide for extra yardageto be used for laboratory tests.8.19 Secure the required number of textiles and perma-nently label each with a code that identifies both the textile andthe participant. Suggest that
45、one textile of each type be retainedin its new condition for comparison with the used textiles.8.20 Issue the textiles to the proper participant along withwritten instructions regarding how the textile is to be used(worn) and cared for, as well as when it is to be returned forevaluation.8.21 After e
46、ach wear-refurbishing cycle or wear period hasbeen completed, evaluate the textiles for previously specifiedperformance properties. Where visual ratings are involved, it isrecommended that three trained observers be used. Record thetest value or grade for each property on a separate form tofacilitat
47、e statistical analysis of the data. See Fig. 1.8.22 Continue to wear-test and evaluate the textiles until thepredetermined endpoint of the test has been reached. Surveysmay be conducted to determine the participants opinions ofthe textiles being tested.NOTE 3Use as a guide in the evaluation of the t
48、extile, the practicesand guides developed by Subcommittees D13.54, D13.56, D 13.61, andD13.63, such as D 3938, D 4231, and D 4390, if applicable.9. Interpretation of Results9.1 Following each evaluation, analyze the data statisticallyusing one or more of the types of methods listed in 9.1.1-9.1.6(me
49、thods for statistical analysis may be found in the literature,8or other statistical texts).9.1.1 Average value or grade.9.1.2 Frequency distribution of values or grades.9.1.3 Table depicting difference between participants.9.1.4 Percentage of items that failed, after each cycle.9.1.5 Cumulative percent failures plotted against hours wearor time of use.9.1.6 F-ratio Analysis of variance.10. Report10.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed inGuide D 3181. Describe the type of material or
