1、Designation: D3939/D3939M 13 (Reapproved 2017)Standard Test Method forSnagging Resistance of Fabrics (Mace)1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3939/D3939M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year
2、of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This test method determines the snagging resistance of afabric.1.2 Studies of fabric snagging have shown that this
3、testmethod is suitable for a range of woven and knitted fabricsmade from textured or untextured filament yarns or spun yarnsor combinations of these yarns.2,3This test method is notsuitable for (1) open construction fabrics (such as a net)because the points on the mace will snag the felt pad rathert
4、han the specimen, (2) very heavy or very stiff fabrics thatcannot be made to fit tightly on the drum and felt pad, and (3)tufted or nonwoven fabrics because the apparatus is designedfor woven and knitted fabrics.1.3 If after using this test method it is found to be too severefor your fabrics, an alt
5、ernative method can be used, such as BS8479 Textiles: Method for Determination of the Propensity ofFabrics to Snagging and Related Surface Defects - RotatingChamber Method.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or in other units shallbe regarded separately as the standard. The values stated ineach
6、 system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, eachsystem must be used independently of the other, withoutcombining values in any way. In case of referee decisions, theSI units will prevail.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It
7、 is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use. Specific precau-tionary statements are given in Section 7.1.6 This international standard was developed in accor-dance wit
8、h internationally recognized principles on standard-ization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization TechnicalBarriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards
9、:4D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1335 Test Method for Tuft Bind of Pile Yarn FloorCoveringsD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel,Textile, Home Furnishing, an
10、d Leather ProductsD4467 Practice for Interlaboratory Testing of a Textile TestMethod That Produces Non-Normally Distributed Data(Withdrawn 2010)5D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric TestMethodsD5362 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics(Bean Bag)2.2 AATCC Standards:665 Test Meth
11、od for Snag Resistance of Womens NylonHosiery (see Note 1)135 Test Method for Dimensional Changes in AutomaticHome Laundering of Woven and Knit FabricsNOTE 1In 1988, the AATCC voted to withdraw this test method fromits technical manual; however, the ASTM task group on fabric snaggingdecided it shoul
12、d be listed as an alternative for testing open constructionfabrics.3. Terminology3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this test method:(color contrast, in textiles; distortion, in fabrics; protrusion, in1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the d
13、irect responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,General.Current edition approved July 15, 2017. Published August 2017. Originallyapproved in 1980. Last previous edition approved in 2013 as D3939 13. DOI:10.1520/D3939-13R17.2Finnigan,J.A., “Laboratory Prediction of the Tendency of
14、a Fabric to SnagDuring Wear,” Textile Institute and Industry, Vol 10 , No. 6, 1972, pp. 164167.3Leung, P., and Hershkowitz, R., “Snag- and Fuzz-Resistant Double Knits viaFabric Construction,” Textile Research Journal, Vol 45, No. 2, 1975, pp. 93102.4For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM webs
15、ite, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.5The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.6Available from American Ass
16、ociation of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.orgCopyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United StatesThis international standard was developed in accordance with intern
17、ationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.1fabrics; snag, in fabrics; snagging resistance, i
18、n fabrics), referto Terminology D4850.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this testmethod, refer to Terminology D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 A tubular specimen is placed on a cylindrical drum.Then a mace (spiked ball) bounces randomly against therotating specimen. Snags are produ
19、ced to a degree affected bya variety of factors. The degree of fabric snagging is thenevaluated by comparison of the tested specimens with visualstandards that may be either fabrics or photographs of fabrics.The observed resistance to snagging is reported on a scaleranging from 5 (no or insignifican
20、t snagging) to 1 (very severesnagging).5. Significance and Use5.1 This test method is not considered satisfactory foracceptance testing of commercial shipments of fabrics becausethe between-laboratory precision of the test method is poor (see15.1).5.1.1 If there are differences of practical signific
21、ance be-tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more),comparative test should be performed to determine if there is astatistical significant difference between them, using competentstatistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for sucha comparative test that are as homogeneous a
22、s possible, drawnfrom the same lot of material as the samples that resulted indisparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned inequal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from thelaboratories involved should be compared using a statisticaltest for unpaired data, at a probabili
23、ty level chosen prior to thetesting series. If bias is found, either its cause must be foundand corrected or future testing for that material must beadjusted in consideration of the statistically significant differ-ences.5.2 This test method may be used for quality control testingof fabrics during m
24、anufacturing and product comparisons ofdifferent fabrics by manufacturers, retailers, and users. This testmethod may also be used by researchers to examine the effectof new fibers, yarns, fabric constructions, and finishes on thesnagging resistance of fabrics.5.3 This test method may be used to test
25、 the snaggingresistance of most apparel and home furnishings fabrics.However, a different test method may be needed for differenttypes of fabrics and different end-uses (such as towels, pants,and upholstery) (see 5.3.1).5.3.1 Some fabrics that may not be suitable for this testmethod are described in
26、 1.2. Many open construction fabricscan be tested for snagging resistance using AATCC TestMethod 65. The snagging resistance of many pile floorcoverings can be tested by Test Method D1335. Test MethodD5362 (Bean Bag) may also be considered as an alternative fortesting the snagging resistance of fabr
27、ics. This test methoddoes not apply to the ABC Snag Tester.5.4 Since fabric snagging can be affected by laundering ordrycleaning, it may be advisable to test the snagging resistanceof a fabric before and after laundering or drycleaning.5.5 The snagging resistance of a specific fabric varies withindi
28、vidual wearers and general conditions of use. Therefore, itcan be expected that garments of the same fabric will show afairly wide snagging resistance spectrum after wear and muchgreater variation in wear than in replicate fabric specimenssubjected to controlled laboratory tests. This factor should
29、beconsidered when adopting levels of acceptability for anyspecification that includes snagging resistance.5.6 Snags observed in worn garments vary appreciably innumber and appearance. The appearance of a snag dependsparticularly on (1) the degree of color contrast between thesnag and the surrounding
30、 area of the fabric or (2) the presenceof long distortions or long protrusions. These conditions arenot evaluated when snagging is rated solely on the number ofsnags. See Section 13 for a description of color contrast,distortion, and protrusion as used in this test method; and seeFigs. 1 through 3 i
31、n Test Method D5362 for pictures of fabricdefects due to snagging. Because the overall acceptability of aspecific fabric is dependent on both the characteristics of thesnags and other factors affecting fabric appearance, it isrecommended that fabrics tested in the laboratory be evaluatedwith regard
32、to the defects that may be observed visually andnot rated solely on the number of snags developed. A series ofvisual rating standards (see 6.2.4) may be set up to provide abasis for the ratings. The visual rating standards are mostadvantageous when the tested laboratory specimens correlateclosely in
33、 appearance with fabrics from a wear test, forexample, when tested laboratory specimens and fabrics from awear test show similar color contrasts. In the precedingexample, a series of fabrics from the wear test would be a goodchoice for the fabric standards described in 6.2.4.2.6. Apparatus and Mater
34、ials6.1 ICI Mace Snag Tester (see Fig. 1):6.1.1 Specimen Templates, 205 by 330 mm 8 by 13 in. forweft knit fabrics and 205 by 320 mm 8 by 12.5 in. for wovenfabrics and warp knit fabrics.6.1.2 Felt Sleeves, wool or chief weight wool syntheticblend with thickness of 3.5 6 0.5 mm and weight of 1400 620
35、0 g/m2.6.1.3 Gage, for setting position of mace (calibration block).6.1.4 Rubber O-rings.6.2 Sewing Machine, with a sewing needle that is appropri-ate for the fabric being tested for snagging resistance, or6.2.1 Sharps Hand Sewing Needle.6.2.2 Sewing Thread, cotton, Tex ticket 35 to 50, or equiva-le
36、nt polyester and cotton.6.2.3 Standard Calibration Fabric, having an establishedsnagging resistance rating that has been agreed upon by thepurchaser and the supplier. (No standard calibration fabric hasbeen specified by Subcommittee D13.59.)6.2.4 Visual Rating Standards:6.2.4.1 Photographic Standard
37、sA series of photographsof tested specimens that show the degrees of snagging, such asthe Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) photographs;7or7Apparatus is commercially available.D3939/D3939M 13 (2017)26.2.4.2 Fabric StandardsA series of tested specimens orfabrics from a wear test that show the degree
38、s of snagging (see5.6 and Note 2).NOTE 2Fabric standards should be stored and handled under condi-tions that will preserve their original form and appearance. Mount thefabric standards using white poster board or plastic or metal framing.6.2.5 Apparatus for Fabric Evaluation, for illumination andsim
39、ultaneous viewing of specimens and visual rating stan-dards:6.2.5.1 Apparatus for Fabric Evaluation, (see Fig. 2),7FIG. 1 ICI Mace TesterMetric Equivalentsin. mm in. mm132 1 8 2030.7 18 812 2152 50 12 3054 100 15 380614 159 2114 5406516 160 37 940712 190 40 1020FIG. 2 Apparatus for Fabric Evaluation
40、D3939/D3939M 13 (2017)3having a light source of sufficient brightness to illuminatesnags on the surface of a fabric.6.2.5.2 ICI Viewing Cabinet, (see Fig. 3),7having a lightsource of sufficient brightness to illuminate snags on thesurface of a fabric.6.3 Optional Equipment:6.3.1 Steam Iron, weighted
41、 to 2.3 kg or 5 lb and an ironingboard.6.3.2 Tumble Dryer, as described in AATCC TestMethod 135.6.3.3 Washing Machine, as described in AATCC TestMethod 135.6.3.4 Detergent, Heavy Duty Granule, the 1993 AATCCStandard Reference Detergent as described in AATCC TestMethod 135. When agreed upon by the pu
42、rchaser and thesupplier, a substitute detergent that does not include fabricsoftener or bleach may be used.6.3.5 Equipment for Drycleaning Specimens, as described inTest Methods D2724.7. Hazards7.1 Locate the mace snag tester in a low-traffic area becauseof the danger from the exposed mace and rotat
43、ing drum.7.2 Check that all parts of the mace snag tester are secureand are in good working condition.7.3 Wear protective gloves when examining the points onthe mace snag tester or removing fibers and yarns from themace points.7.4 Observe the following safety precautions when operat-ing the tester:
44、(1) do not wear loose or dangling clothing thatcan get caught in the mace points or moving parts; (2)donotattempt to change a specimen while the drum is rotating; and(3) do not injure your hands on the sharp mace points whenplacing a specimen on the drum.8. Sampling8.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for
45、acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls of fabric directed in anapplicable material specification or other agreement betweenthe purchaser and the supplier. Consider rolls of fabric to be theprimary sampling unit.8.2 Laboratory Sampling UnitAs a laboratory samplingunit for acceptance te
46、sting, take a full width swatch 1-m or1-yd long from the end of each roll of fabric in the lot sample,after first discarding the outermost layer of fabric. Whendrycleaning and laundering are to be performed, take addi-tional swatches for the laundering and drycleaning tests.8.3 SpecimensTest four sp
47、ecimens from each swatch inthe laboratory sampling unit. When drycleaning and launderingtests are to be performed, test four additional specimens fordrycleaning and four additional specimens for laundering.9. Preparation of the Specimens9.1 When snagging resistance after laundering or dryclean-ing i
48、s to be evaluated, launder or dryclean the swatches asdirected in 9.1.1 or 9.1.2 before cutting the specimens.9.1.1 LaunderingLoad the washer with a 3.5-kg or 8-lbtotal load of swatches that comprise a homogeneous load (forexample, same manufacturer, same line, same finishing, andsame previous care)
49、 or a homogeneous group of swatches fortesting and a desized unsoftened group of ballast fabrics. Selectnormal cycle, warm water temperature, and the 1993 AATCCStandard Reference Detergent (see Terminology D3136 andAATCC Test Method 135). Run one machine cycle and do notuse softener. Load the dryer with the washed fabrics. Selectnormal cycle, medium temperature, and run the dryer for 20min or until the fabrics are dry to the touch. Do not use softenerin the dryer. Do not overdry the fabrics (see Note 3).NOTE 3When agreed upon by the purchaser and the supplie
