1、Designation: D4154 14Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted and Woven Beachwear and SportsShirt Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4154; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision,
2、 the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted and wo-ven fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixtur
3、e of fibersused in mens and boys beachwear and sports shirts.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted and woven fabrics used for interlining and swimwear.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nen
4、t.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced
5、 Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn2003)3D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2262 Test Method for Tearing S
6、trength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted FabricsHaving Low PowerD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on
7、 Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation
8、 ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated96 Dimensional
9、Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastness t
10、o Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transfer-ence ScaleA Glossary of AATCC Standa
11、rd Terminology2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current e
12、dition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D4154 01(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D4154-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of
13、ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215,
14、 Research Triangle Park, NC27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States12.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sam
15、pling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this performance specificationgive only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, orother test methods. The current editions of each test method cited shallprevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all termin
16、ology related to Apparel, see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:dimensional change.3.2 For definition of all other textile terms see TerminologyD123.3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC test methods, or the Glossar
17、y ofAATCC Standard Terminology, or both.3.4 Definitions of terms used in a dictionary of commonterms are suitable for terms used in this performance specifi-cation.3.5 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.5.1 pressing and finishingThis term takes into accountall of the industrial pressin
18、g and finishing treatments used ingarment production.NOTE 2No standard method is available for reproducing on alaboratory level the results of industrial pressing or finishing treatmentsused in the manufacture of garments.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics of woven and knitte
19、d fabricsfor mens and boys beachwear and sport shirts shall conformto the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this perfo
20、rmance specifica-tion.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion oraesthetics, the ultimate consumer of articles made from thesefabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to allof the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modi
21、fied by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Grade for colorfastness and SA rating is based on a numerical scal
22、e of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.CharacteristicRequirementsSectionKnitted WovenBreaking strength (load) (CRT) . 111 N (25 lbf),
23、 min 7.1Bursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50 lbf) . 7.2Yarn slippage, 6-mm (14-in.) separation . 89 N (20 lbf), min 7.3Tongue tear strength . 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.4Dimensional Change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 1 % max, pre-finished fabrics 7.5.1After five launderings (see 7.5.2.2 if
24、 shrinkage exceeds 3 %) 3 % max 2 % max, post-finished fabrics 7.5.2After three dry cleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.5.3Growth 3 % max 3 % max 7.5.4Colorfastness:Burnt Gas Fumes2 Cycles:Shade change, original fabric Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.6.1Shade change after 1 laundering or 1 dry cleaning Grade 4Ami
25、n Grade 4AminLaundering:EShade changeStainingGrade 4AminGrade 3BminGrade 4AminGrade 3Bmin7.6.2Dry cleaning:Shade change Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.6.3Crocking:EDryWetGrade 4CminGrade 3CminGrade 4CminGrade 3Cmin7.6.4Perspiration:EShade ChangeStainingGrade 4AminGrade 3BminGrade 4AminGrade 3Bmin7.6.5Lig
26、ht (40 AATCC Fading Units) (xenon-arc) Grade 4Amin Grade 4Amin 7.6.6Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4A, min Grade 4A,min 7.6.7Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach Grade 4A, min Grade 4A,min 7.6.8Fabric smoothness appearance (see 7.7.1)S3.5Dmin SA 3.5Dmin 7.7Flammability pass pass 7.8AAATCC Gray Scale for C
27、olor Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable-press fabrics only.ESee Note 11.D4154 1425.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4154except for the following characteristic(s)
28、.”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style
29、of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or othe
30、r agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Method (see Note 1)7.1 Breaking For
31、ce (Woven Fabric Only)Determine thedry breaking force, in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D5034, using a constantrate of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed ofthe pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 3If preferred, the use of
32、a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be agreedupon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and withthe CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load
33、 testers shouldnot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy the CRT method shallprevail.7.2 Bursting Strength (Knitted Fabric Only)Determine thebursting strength, in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D3787 using an approvedtype of CRT machine equipped wit
34、h a bursting attachment orTest Method D3786 using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester as agreed upon between the purchaser and thesupplier.NOTE 4There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tes
35、ter. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D3786 shallprevail.NOTE 5The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being
36、 established by Subcommittee D13.59.The test methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the supplier using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.3 Resistanc
37、e to Yarn Slippage (Woven Fabric Only)Determine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in TestMethod D434.NOTE 6The precision of Test Method D434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts (see 5.2).7.4 Tear Strength (Woven Fabric Only)Determine the tearstr
38、ength as directed in Test Method D1424.NOTE 7If preferred, use of Test Method D2262 is permitted withexisting requirements as given in this performance specification. Theremay be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the tonguetear machine and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequen
39、tly, these twotear testers should not be used interchangeably. In case of controversy,Test Method D1424 shall prevail.7.5 Dimensional Change:7.5.1 Pressing and Curing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 4.4 of AATCC Test Method 135.When appropriate press and cure specimen(s) as agreed
40、 uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier with respect to timecycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressureof the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate thedimensional change as directed in Section 6 and 7 of AATCCTest Method 135 (see Note 2).7.5.1.1 If no agreement has be
41、en made between the pur-chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5of Test Methods D2724.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC T
42、est Method 135.NOTE 8Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the ca
43、sewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “dry-cleanable” are to bedry-cleaned only.NOTE 9Specimens prepared for 7.5.1 may be used for 7.5.2 and 7.5.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and curing dimen-sional change from the total dimensional change to obtain that portion du
44、eto laundering or dry cleaning. The dimensional change to pressing andcuring is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is not to beadded to the dimensional change due to laundering or dry cleaning of thefabric (see 6.1).7.5.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas spec
45、ified by the supplier.7.5.2.2 When the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3%, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D2594 using a 2.2-N(0.5-lbf) load. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent sh
46、rinkage due to launder-ing does not exceed 3% shrinkage, then the fabric meets thespecification requirements in Table 1.7.5.3 Dry CleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D2724 (see Note 8).7.5.4 Growth (Knitted
47、Fabric Only)Determine the growthof the fabric as directed in Test Methods D2594.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 10Washing conditions shall
48、be the same as those used in7.5.2.1. Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.3.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestD4154 143Method 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by thesupplier (see Note
49、 7).NOTE 11It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcontain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.6.3 Dry CleaningDetermine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 132 (see Note 8).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfas
