1、Designation: D 4155 01 (Reapproved 2007)Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Woven Sportswear, Shorts, Slacks, andSuiting Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4155; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or,
2、in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven fabricscomprised of any textile fibe
3、r or mixture of fibers used inwomens and girls sportswear, or suitings.1.2 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3 This performance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics used for interlinings, jeans, and
4、dungarees.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Re
5、ferenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam3D 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Stren
6、gth of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine3D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationo
7、f Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to CrockingAATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic and Laundering,Commercial Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking;
8、 Rotary Vertical, Crockme-ter Method119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): ScreenWire Method124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after RepeatedHome Laundering132 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics188 C
9、olorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter D-Flammable
10、Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited
11、shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specifica-tion, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test methodsand to Terminology D 123.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms aresuitable for this specification.1This specification is
12、under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2007. Published July 2007. Originally approvedin 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2001 D 4155 012For referenced ASTM standards, visit the
13、 ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn.4Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists,P.O. Box 12215,
14、Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20407.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Har
15、bor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4. Specifications Requirements4.1 The properties of woven fabrics for womens and girlssportswear and suitings shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the
16、 purchaser and thesupplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not con
17、form to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4155exc
18、ept for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performa
19、nce parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directe
20、d in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. T
21、est Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force asdirected in Test Method D 5034, using a constant rate oftraverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed of thepulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension
22、 (CRE)testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreedTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class for colorfastness and durable press (DP) rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, orwrinkle to 1 for very severe color change,
23、color transfer, or wrinkle.Characteristics Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load) CRTA7.1Worsted and cotton count yarns:Warp 155 N (35 lbf) minFilling 133 N (30 lbf) minWoolen run yarns, each direction 111 N (25 lbf) minYarn slippage, 6.3-mm (14-in.) separation at 89 N (20 lbf) min 7.2Tongue t
24、ear strength 8.9 N (2.0 lbf) min 7.3Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1)DP3.5Bmin 7.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle 7.5.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4CminShade change, after one laundering or one drycleaning Class 4CminLaundering:Shade change Class 4Cmin 7.5.2Staining Class 3DminDrycleaning
25、:Shade change Class 4Cmin 7.5.3Perspiration:Shade change Class 4Cmin 7.5.4Staining Class 3DminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc)AStep 4Cmin 7.5.5Crocking:Dry Class 4Emin 7.5.6Wet Class 3EminFrosting:Shade change Class 4Cmin 7.5.7Chlorine Bleach Class 4C,min 7.5.8Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4C,min 7.5.9Di
26、mensional change: 7.6Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.6.1Laundering 3 % max 7.6.2Drycleaning 2 % max 7.6.3Flammability pass 7.7AMore than one method can be used to measure these properties. These methods cannot be used interchangeably, since there may be no overall correlation betweenthem (see Note
27、2, Note 4, and Note 6).BFor durable press fabrics only.CAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.DAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.EAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D 4155 01 (2007)2between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine a
28、nd theCRE machine, consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot beused interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine willprevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D 434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D 434 is bei
29、ng established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts in terms of ends andpicks per inch (see 5.2).7.3 Tear StrengthDetermine the tear strength as directedin Test Method D 1424.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of Test Methods D 2261 and D 2262 ispermitted with existing requirements a
30、s given in this standard. There maybe no overall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tearmachines and the Elmendorf machine. Consequently these tear testerscannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test MethodD 1424 shall prevail.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the
31、fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering usingthe wash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreedbetween the purchaser and the supplier as specified in 7.6.2 forwashable fabrics or after drycleaning as specified in 7.6.3 fordrycleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.4.1 For
32、fabrics not intended for use in “durable press”garments determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in Section 10.2.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more tha
33、n12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes (on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning) as directed inAATCC Test Method 23 after1 cycle.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine
34、 the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 61. The test conditionsshall be as agreed between the purchaser and supplier (see Note5).7.5.3 DrycleaningDetermine the colorfastness to dry-cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 132.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be d
35、rycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, as would be the case withpoly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “drycleanable” ar
36、e to be dry-cleaned only.7.5.4 PerspirationDetermine the colorfastness to perspi-ration as directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.5.5 LightDetermine the colorfastness to light as di-rected in AATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of m
37、achines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.5.6 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to
38、crocking asdirected inAATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades andAATCCTest Method 116 for prints, or as agreed between the purchaserand the seller.7.5.7 FrostingDetermine the colorfastness to flat abrasionas directed in AATCC Test Method 119.7.5.8 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine color-fastnes
39、s to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.5.9 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.6 Dimensional Change:7.6.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in Section 5.4 of AATCC TestMethod 135. Pre
40、ss and finish specimen(s) as agreed upon bythe purchaser and the supplier with respect to time cycles,temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressure of thepress head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate the dimen-sional change as directed in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC TestMethod 135 (see Note
41、2).7.6.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press and using a cycle as directed in 10.1.4.1 through10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as direc
42、ted in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135 or as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the supplier (see Note 5 and Note 7).7.6.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the supplier.NOTE 7Specimens prepared for 7.6.1 may be used for 7.6.2 and 7.6.3as desired. When
43、this is done, the dimensional change due to launderingor drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change topressing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of thefabric (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional
44、Change 5 100D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or drycleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.6.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in Section 10.1.1thru 10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724 or as agreed between thepu
45、rchaser and the supplier.7.7 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beagreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier, provided theymeet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable FabricsAct Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; pants; performance; specification; suitingD 4155 01 (2007)3ASTM
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49、 Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D 4155 01 (2007)4
