1、Designation: D4232 01 (Reapproved 2008)D4232 14Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Dress and Vocational Career ApparelFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4232; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in th
2、e case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers the performance requirements for woven fabrics f
3、or mens and womens dress andvocational career apparel.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to career apparel fabrics that do not patently fit the categories incategoryof 3.1.1.1. Career Dress Apparel. Performance specifications for such fabrics should be as agreed to between the purc
4、haser andthe seller. This performance specification is not applicable to overcoat or topcoat uniform fabrics.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety c
5、oncerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibilityof the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatorylimitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD4
6、34 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)3D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-
7、Rate-of-Extension TensileTesting Machine)D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-TraverseTensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on N
8、umber of Specimens for Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration1616.3 Colorfastness
9、to LightLight: Xenon-Arc23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic; and Laundering, Commercial: Laundering: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method124 Smoothness Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Repeated Home LaunderingsLaund
10、ering132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Change in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven or Knit Fabricsof Fabrics after Home Laundering1 This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on App
11、arel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008Feb. 1, 2014. Published October 2008March 2014. Originally approved in 1983. Last previous edition approved in 20012008 asD4232 01.D4232 01(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D4232-01R08.10.1520/D4232-14.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org,
12、or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.3 The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.4 AATCC Technical Manual, available from Ame
13、rican Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709,http:/www.aatcc.org.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. B
14、ecauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 10
15、0 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 AATCC Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedur
16、e 2 AATCC Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 38 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference ScaleA Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety Commission Subchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Samp
17、ling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test methods. Thecurrent editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 career appare
18、l, n.garments, usually of a specified design, for on-the-job wear by business or professional employees.3.1.1.1 career dress apparel, n.career apparel which is not generally subject to abusive wear and for which appearance is amore important attribute than durability.(1) DiscussionFabrics for career
19、 dress apparel are usually categorized as heavyweight, mediumweight, or lightweight. Theuses of these fabrics vary with weight as follows:Category Mass (Weight) Typical End-UsesIHeavy-weight200 g/m2 (6.0 oz/yd2) andabovePants, suits, blazer, waiter-typejackets, vests, coveralls, etc.IIMedium-weight1
20、50 g/m2 (4.5 oz/yd2) andabove, but less than 200g/m2 (6.0 oz/yd2)Pants, jackets, dresses, shirtsand blouses, gowns, smocks,lab coats, etc.IIILight-weightBelow 150 g/m2 (4.5 oz/yd 2) Tops (shirts, blouses) anddresses3.1.1.2 career vocational apparel, n. career apparel which is generally subject to ab
21、usive wear and for which durability is amore important attribute than appearance.(1) DiscussionFabrics for career dress apparel are usually categorized as heavyweight, mediumweight, or lightweight. The usesof these fabrics vary with weight as follows:Category Mass (Weight) Typical End-UsesI Heavy-we
22、ight270 g/m2 (8.0 oz/yd2) andabovePants, jackets, lab coats,cover alls, etc.IIMedium-weight150 g/m2 (4.5 oz/yd2) andabove, but less than 270g/m2 (8.0 oz/yd2)Shirts, smocks, aprons, labcoats, nurses dresses, etc.IIILight-weightBelow 150 g/m2 (4.5 oz/yd 2) Light duty shirts, blouses,dresses, smocks, e
23、tc.3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel, see Terminology D7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard: career apparel, career dress apparel, career vocational apparel.3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms used in this performance specification, refer to see Terminolog
24、y D123.3.3 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms are suitable for terms used in this performance specification. For termsrelating to chemical or colorfastness testing, refer to specific AATCC test methods, or the Glossary of AATCC StandardTerminology, or both.4. Specification Requirement
25、s4.1 The properties of woven fabrics for mens and womens career apparel shall conform to the specification requirements inTable 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requirements listed
26、 in Table 1 of this performance specification.5 Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.6 Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.D4232 142TABLE 1 Specifica
27、tion RequirementsNOTE 1ClassGrade in colorfastness and durable press requirements are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change, color transfer,or durable press rating, and to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or durable press rating.Characteristics Career Dress Appar
28、elFabric Requirements Career Vocational ApparelFabric Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load) (CRT):Category I 267 N (60 lbf), min 312 N (70 lbf), min 7.1Category II 178 N (40 lbf), min 222 N (50 lbf), minCategory III 156 N (35 lbf), min 178 N (40 lbf), minYarn slippage, 6-mm, (14-in.) separati
29、on:Category I 111 N (25 lbf), min 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.2Category II 89 N (20 lbf), min 89 N (20 lbf), minCategory III 67 N (15 lbf), min 67 N (15 lbf), minTongue tear strength:Category I 20 N (4.5 lbf), min 27 N (6.0 lbf), min 7.3Category II 16 N (3.5 lbf), min 18 N (4.0 lbf), minCategory III 11 N
30、(2.5 lbf), min 11 N (2.5 lbf), minDimensional stability:Pressing and finishing 2 % shrink, 0.5 % gain, max 2 % shrink, 0.5 % gain, max 7.4.1After 5 washes 2.5 % max 2.5 % max 7.4.2After 3 drycleanings 2.5 % max 2.5 % max 7.4.3Fabric Appearance (see 7.5.1.1):Fabric Smoothness Appearance (see 7.5.1):C
31、ategory I D.P., 3.5 min D.P., 3.0 min 7.5Category I SA, 3.5 min SA, 3.0 min 7.5Category II D.P., 3.5 min D.P., 3.0 minCategory II SA, 3.5 min SA, 3.0 minCategory III D.P., 3.0 min D.P., 3.0 minCategory III SA, 3.0 min SA, 3.0 minFlammability pass pass 7.6Colorfastness to:LaunderingLaundering:DShade
32、change Class 4, minA Class 4, minA 7.7.1Shade change Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.1Staining Class 3, minB Class 3, minBStaining Grade 3, minB Grade 3, minBDrycleaningShade change Class 4, minA Class 4, minA 7.7.2Shade change Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.2CrockingCrocking:DDry Class 4, minC Cla
33、ss 4, minC 7.7.3Dry Grade 4, minC Grade 4, minC 7.7.3Wet Class 3, minC Class 3, minCWet Grade 3, minC Grade 3, minCBurnt gas fumes2 cyclesShade change, original fabric Class 4, minA Class 4, minA 7.7.4Shade change, original fabric Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.4Shade change, after one laundering o
34、r onedrycleaningClass 4, minA Class 4, minAShade change, after one laundering or onedrycleaningGrade 4, minA Grade 4, minALight (xenon-arc)Outdoor (40 AATCC FU) Step 4, minA Step 4, minA 7.7.5Outdoor (40 AATCC FU) Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.5Indoor (20 AATCC FU) Step 4, minA Step 4, minAIndoor
35、(20 AATCC FU) Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minAPerspirationPerspiration:DShade change Class 4, minA Class 4, minA 7.7.6Shade change Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.6Staining Class 3, minB Class 3, minBStaining Grade 3, minB Grade 3, minBOzone2 cycles Class 4A Class 4A 7.7.7Ozone2 cycles Grade 4A Grade 4A
36、7.7.7Chlorine Bleach Class 4A , min Class 4A , min 7.7.8Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4A , min Grade 4A , min 7.7.8Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4A , min Class 4A , min 7.7.9Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach Grade 4A , min Grade 4A , min 7.7.9A AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.B AATCC Gray Scale for Stai
37、ning.C AATCC AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.D See Note 7.D4232 1435.2 It is recognized that where more critical requirements call for higher performance levels, for purposes of fashion oraesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that
38、do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. One or more of the requirements may be modifed by mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meetsASTM Specification D4232 exceptfor the followin
39、g characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, therequirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only.As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varyingperformance parameters for
40、any particular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specifiedtest methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the number of rolls as directed in and applica
41、blespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lot sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric andat least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (
42、See Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force as directed in Test Method D5034, using a constant rate of traverse(CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testi
43、ng machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and the CRE machine,consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of c
44、ontroversy, the CRT machine will prevail.7.2 Yarn SlippageDetermine the yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D434 is being established, and it may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of ends and picks per inch.7.3 Tearing StrengthDetermine the te
45、aring strength as directed in Test Method D2262.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of either Test Methods D1424 or D2261 is permitted with existing requirements as given in this performancespecification. There may be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tear machines and the
46、Elmendorf machine. Consequently,these tear testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D2262 shall prevail.7.4 Dimensional Change:7.4.1 Pressing and Finishing During Garment ManufacturingMark specimen(s) as directed in 4.4 of AATCC TestMethod 135. Press and finish spe
47、cimen(s) as agreed to by the purchaser and the supplier with respect to time, cycles, temperature,steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the presshead. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate the dimensional change asdirected in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC Test Method 135.7.4.1.1 If no agreement has
48、been made between the purchaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bed steampress according to the cycle in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D2724.7.4.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensional change after 5 launderings as directed in the applicable procedure inAATCC T
49、est Method 135 or as agreed to by buyer and supplier.7.4.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedures shall be as specified by the supplier.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable except where all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. For example,the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent. Goods labeled “Drycleanable” are to bedrycleaned only.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.4.1 may be used for 7.4.2 and 7.4.3 as desired. When this
