1、Designation: D 4845 05Standard Terminology Relating toWool1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4845; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the
2、 year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers definitions of technical termsused in the wool industry. Terms that are generally understoodor adequately defined in other readily available sour
3、ces are notdefined.1.2 Other terminology standards of interest are shown in 2.12. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles3. Terminologyalpaca, nthe fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, ananimal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus). The fiber isobtained fro
4、m several species, namely, Huacaya and SuriDISCUSSIONAlpaca is normally classified according to type, repre-senting particular combinations of characteristics appropriate to aspecific use, or descriptive of geographic origin, breed or species ofanimal, or preparation for market.There are two varieti
5、es of the alpaca animal, the Huacaya and Suri.The Suri produces straighter, finer, and longer fibers, but most alpacaproduction is of the Huacaya variety. Alpaca is normally classifiedaccording to type, representing particular combinations of characteris-tics appropriate to a specific use, or descri
6、ptive of geographic origin,breed or species of animal, or preparation for market (see AppendixX1). D 2252acid content, nof felt, the number of milliequivalents of acidpresent per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribedconditions. D 461alkali-solubility, nin wool, the percent of clean wool tha
7、t issoluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlledconditions of temperature and time. D 1283alpaca, nthe fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, ananimal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus). The fiber isobtained from several species, namely, Huacaya and Suri.D 2252DISCUSSIONAlpaca is n
8、ormally classified according to type, repre-senting particular combinations of characteristics appropriate to aspecific use, or descriptive of geographic origin, breed or species ofanimal, or preparation for market.animal fiber, nany natural protein-base fiber.DISCUSSION(D1474) As used in this stand
9、ard, “animal fiber” refersin particular to those fibers covered by the Wool Products Labeling Actof 1939 and “recycled wool” as defined in the Act as amended in 1980.It also includes, but is not limited to, those fibers listed in Table 1 ofTerminology D 123 D 1574, D 4510aqueous extract, nin wool te
10、sting, the solution obtained bydigesting a material with water or with a sodium chloridesolution to dissolve soluble materials. D 2165average fiber diameter, nin wool and other animal fibers,the average width of a group of fibers when measured on aprojected image. D 2130, D 2252, D 3991, D 3992black
11、 felt, nthose classifications of felt manufactured tovarious shades of the color black. D 2475burr-wool waste, nwaste removed by the burr guard ofcards or burr pickers having a very short fiber and full ofburrs or seeds. D 4845DISCUSSIONThe nature of the waste varies according to the woolfrom which
12、the burrs are taken.carbonized and neutralized wool, na term descriptive ofscoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities bytreating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying andbaking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosicmatter followed by neutralization of the acidified w
13、ool.D2118carded wool, nscoured wool which has been processedthrough a carding machine. D 1575cashmere, nin roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair orproducts made therewith having a cashmere coarse-haircontent not exceeding a specified maximum percentage bylength. D 2816, D 2817cashmere coarse-hair,
14、 nthose coarse fibers in cashmere hairhaving widths greater than 30 m.DISCUSSIONFor the purpose of the source test methods, width shallbe determined as directed in Test Method D 2130. D 2816,D 28171This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsib
15、ility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Wool Felt.Current edition approved Dec. 1, 2005. Published January 2006. Originallyapproved in 1988. Last previous edition approved in 2005 as D 4845 96 (2005).2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Servi
16、ce at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.cashmere coarse-hair content, nthe total leng
17、th of thecashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as apercentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair incashmere hair. D 2816, D 2817cashmere down, nthose fibers in cashmere hair havingwidths of 30 m or less. D 2
18、816, D 2817cashmere hair, nthe fibers produced by a form of goat(Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cash-mere goat. D 2816, D 2817DISCUSSIONCharacteristically, cashmere hair consists of fine down(undercoat) fibers and coarse (outercoat) fibers.clean wool fiber present, nin raw wool, t
19、he mass of woolbase present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture contentof 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and amineral matter content of 0.5 %.DISCUSSION(D1334) The term “clean wool fiber present” is syn-onymous with the term “absolute clean content” as defined in the TariffSchedu
20、les of the United States of America (see Test Method D 584).D 584, D 1060, D 1334colored fiber, nin wool top, any fiber the color or shade ofwhich differs from the normal color or shade of the fibermass of the sample. D 1770combing wool, nwool that is strong and strictly of combinglength, that is, 2
21、 in. (50 mm) or more. D 4845commercial composition, nin wool, the percentages byweight of wool base, moisture, and other nonwool-basecomponents in wool to which a specific commercial desig-nation is applied. D 2720commercial designation, nin wool, a term applied to a lot ofwool in a stated form, and
22、 having a specified commercialcomposition. D 2720commercial moisture content, nthe moisture calculated asa percentage of the weight of the wool, top, noils, yarn,fabric, etc., in the “as-is” condition; that is, containingwhatever moisture, oil, grease, or other extraneous matterthat may be present.
23、D2118DISCUSSIONThe term “moisture regain” as defined in TerminologyD 123,2leads to certain difficulties in defining the clean wool basis forcalculation, which do not occur when the term“ moisture content” isused. Moisture content can be applied directly to the product in the as-iscondition while moi
24、sture regain cannot.constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testing ma-chine, nin tensile testing, an apparatus in which thepulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance withincreasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.).D 1294, D 2524con
25、stant-rate-of-loading (CRL) type tensile testing ma-chine, nin testing tensile, an apparatus in which the rate ofincrease of the force is uniform with time after the first 3 sand the specimen is free to elongate, this elongation beingdependent on the extension characteristics of the specimen atany a
26、pplied force. D 1294, D 2524constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) type tensile testing ma-chine, nin tensile testing, an apparatus in which thepulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force isapplied through the other clamp, which moves appreciablyto actuate a force-measuring mechanism, producing a r
27、ate ofincrease of force or extension that is usually not constant andis dependent on the extension characteristics of the speci-men. D 1294, D 2524core, nin sampling fiber packages, the portion of wool orother fiber obtained by using a sampling tube. D 1060cortex, nin mammalian hair fibers, the prin
28、cipal body of thefiber made up of elongated cells. D 4510cuticle, nin mammalian hair fibers, the layers of flattenedcells enclosing the cortex, which forms an envelope ofoverlapping scales surrounding the fiber. D 4510diameter, average fiberSee average fiber diameter.dimensional change in boiling wa
29、ter (felt), nthe change inlength and width with any associated change in thicknessproduced by immersion in boiling water under specifiedconditions. D 461epidermis, nin mammalian hair fibers, the outside or surfacelayer of the fiber consisting of flat, irregular, horny cells orscales. D 4845extractab
30、le matter, nnonfibrous material in or on a textile,not including water, which is removable by a specifiedsolvent or solvents as directed in a specified procedure.D 461, D 1574DISCUSSIONExtractable matter does not include moisture but (1)isnon-fibrous material, (2) is usually oily, waxy, or resinous
31、in nature, and(3) may include protein, particularly if the extracting solvent is ethylalcohol or contains ethyl alcohol.felt, na textile structure characterized by interlocking andconsolidation of its constituent fibers achieved by the inter-action of a suitable combination of mechanical energy,chem
32、ical action, moisture, and heat but without the use ofweaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives.D 2475DISCUSSIONIn practice, light needling may be used to supplementthe ability of the fibers to interlock and consolidate.fineness, nof textile fibers, a relative measure of size,diame
33、ter, linear density or mass per unit length expressed ina variety of units. D 2252, D 3991, D 3992DISCUSSIONThe fineness of alpaca, wool, and other animal fibers isexpressed as the average fiber width or average fiber diameter inmicrometers (m).flame resistance, nthe property of a material wherebyfl
34、aming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibitedfollowing application of a flaming or nonflaming source ofignition, with or without subsequent removal of the ignitionsource. D 461gage length, nin tensile testing, the length of a specimenmeasured between the points of attachment to clamps whil
35、eunder uniform tension. D 1294, D 2524grade, nin wool and mohair, a numerical designation used inclassifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed,and processed forms based on average fiber diameter andvariation of fiber diameter. D 2130, D 3991, D 3992D4845052DISCUSSIONThe term “grade” shoul
36、d not be confused with the terms“quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that includes not only finenessbut also characteristics such as length, crimp, strength, elasticity, luster,tactile hand, and color, all of which affect the spinnability of the fiberand the properties of the resulting yarn and
37、 fabric. The Bradforddesignations, for which no standards exist, use a scale similar to that forgrade designations (for example: 64s, 56s, etc.) and refer to quality andnot solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating a particularcombination of characteristics applicable to a specific use or des
38、criptiveof geographical origin, breed of sheep, or preparation for market.gray felt, na blend of white fibers with naturally colored ordyed fibers or both and that has an overall gray appearance.D 2475grease wool, nwool taken from the living sheep and whichhas not been commercially scoured.D 1234, D
39、 1574, D 1576, D 2462hair, nnatural animal fiber other than sheeps wool or silk.D 4845DISCUSSIONIt is recognized that this definition implies a distinctionbetween sheeps wool and the covering of other animals, notwithstand-ing similarity in their fiber characteristics. Thus the crimped form andthe s
40、caly structure are not confined to sheeps wool. It seems desirablein the textile trade, however, to avoid ambiguity by confining the termwool to the covering of sheep and to have available a general term forother fibers of animal origin. Normally the less widely used fibers areknown by name, for exa
41、mple, alpaca, mohair, etc., but collectively theyare classed as hairs.kemp fiber, na medullated animal fiber in which thediameter of the medulla is 60 %, or more, of the diameter ofthe fiber. D 2968laboratory sample, na portion of material taken to representthe lot sample, or the original material,
42、and used in thelaboratory as a source of test specimens. D 2525laboratory sample, nin wool top, the portions drawn fromthe lot in accordance with the described procedure.D 1770lot, nin acceptance sampling, that part of a consignment orshipment consisting of a material from one production lot.D 2525l
43、ot, nin wool, top, the entire quantity, not exceeding 20 000lb (9100 kg) of a single combing, that comprises a single unitfor which a test for neps, vegetable matter or colored fiber,or all three combined is desired. D 1770lot sample, none or more shipping units taken at random torepresent an accept
44、ance sampling lot and used as a source oflaboratory samples. D 2525med fiber, na medullated animal fiber in which the diameterof the medulla is less than 60 % of the diameter of the fiber.D 2968medulla, nin mammalian hair fibers, the more or lesscontinuous cellular marrow inside the cortical layer i
45、n mostmedium and coarse fibers. D 2968medullated fiber, nan animal fiber that in its original stateincludes a medulla. D 2968merino, adjfrom pure-bred merino sheep. D 4845DISCUSSIONMerino wool usually has a fiber diameter of 24 m orless.mohair, nthe hair of the Angora goat, Capra species.D 3991, D 3
46、992moisture content, nthe amount of moisture in a materialdetermined under prescribed conditions and expressed as apercentage of the mass of the moist material, that is, theoriginal mass comprising the dried substance plus anymoisture present. D 1576, D 2462DISCUSSIONThe term “mass” is the correct d
47、esignation for theproperty commonly designated as “weight.”Aslight amount of residualmoisture may not be removed from a specimen subjected to ovendrying because of the relative humidity of the ambient air. The amountof moisture retained by a specimen may be estimated from publisheddata.3There may al
48、so be a slight additional loss in mass caused by theevaporation of volatile material other than water, the amount dependingon the characteristics of any added oils or emulsions.moisture-free, adjthe condition of a material that has beenexposed in an atmosphere of desiccated air until there is nofurt
49、her significant change in its mass. D 1576, D 2462DISCUSSIONHeating the material and the desiccated air to tempera-tures as high as 110C increases the rate of moisture loss but does notchange the final equilibrium mass of the moisture-free material.moisture regain, nthe amount of moisture in a materialdetermined under prescribed conditions and expressed as apercentage of the mass of the moisture-free material.D 1576, D 2462natural fiber, na class name for various genera of fibers(including filaments) of (1)
