1、Designation: D 5646 96 (Reapproved 2002)Standard Terminology ofBasic Sewing Machine Stitches for Home Use1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 5646; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last
2、revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewingmachines designed for home use. These terms and definitionsare not ne
3、cessarily consistent with those used in the apparel orhome furnishings manufacturing industries. Each stitch isidentified with a definition, a discussion of how the stitch isformed and might be used and an illustration of one or morepossible stitch patterns. This terminology does not includestitches
4、 made by sergers, hemmers, or by attachments to thehome sewing machines.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles22.2 Federal Standard:Fed. Std. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching33. Terminologyblind hem stitch, nin home sewing a complex machinestitch pattern
5、consisting of small groups of straight or narrowzigzag stitches separated by a wide zigzag stitch unit atconsistent intervals. (See Fig. 1.)DISCUSSIONThe blind hem stitch is used to make and lessen thevisibility of hems in finished textile products. Other potential applica-tions include seam finishe
6、s on soft fabrics and decorative work.buttonhole stitch, nin home sewing, a complex machinestitch pattern made by coordinated motions of needle andfeed, appearing as very close stitches forming a narrowrectangle of stitching that is usually composed of four stitchsegments, one on each side and on ea
7、ch of the two ends ofthe rectangle. (See Fig. 2.)DISCUSSIONThe buttonhole stitch is used for making buttonholes ongarments and other textile products. In a keyhole buttonhole, one endis rounded rather than plex machine stitch pattern, nin home sewing,amachine stitch pattern formed when two or more s
8、implemachine stitch patterns are combined in one repeating unit.(Compare simple machine stitch pattern.)DISCUSSIONComplex machine stitch patterns include the blind hemstitch, buttonhole stitch, and straight stitch.lockstitch, nin home sewing, a type of stitch formed withtwo threads: one needle threa
9、d and one bobbin threadinterlaced with each other.DISCUSSIONThe needle thread passes through the material andinterlaces with thread from the bobbin so that the interlacing is midwaybetween surfaces of the material(s) being sewn. Other lock stitchformations are available for industrial use. (See Fig.
10、 3.)machine stitch, nin home sewing, the resulting arrangementof sewing threads in a repeating unit formed by a sewingmachine.1This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.53 on Practices.Current edition approved Fe
11、b. 10, 1996. Published July 1996. Originallypublished as D 5646 94. Last previous edition D 5646 95a.2Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 01.01.3Printed in 1965 as Federal Standard No. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching,General Services Administration, Washington, D.C. 20407. Available from Stan-dar
12、dization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave.,Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.FIG. 1 Multiple Stitch ZigzagFIG. 2 Straight Stitch1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.DISCUSSIONStitches are cat
13、egorized as either simple or complexsewing machine stitch patterns. (See straight stitch, single stitchzigzag, multiple stitch zigzag, blind hem stitch, buttonhole stitch,and stretch stitch. Stitches made by serger and hemmers are notincluded in this definition.sewing machine, nin home sewing, a mac
14、hine that usesneedles and bobbin threads in the stitch formation and isprimarily for home sewing use rather that industrial use.DISCUSSIONSpecialized sewing machines such as sergers and hem-mers are not included in this definition. On a sewing machine, on or twoneedle(s) move up and down and might m
15、ove side to side as the fabricmoves through the feed mechanism in either the forward or reversedirection.single stitch zigzag, nin home sewing, a simple machinestitch pattern made by the needle moving up and down andalternately from one side to the other while the fabric movesthrough the feed mechan
16、ism in either the forward or reversedirection with all segments having equal length and equalwidth. (Compare mulitple stitch zigzag.)DISCUSSIONThe single stitch zigzag may be used for stitching plainseams to give extensibility to finish the raw edges of seams, to applytrims, to mend tears, or to sti
17、tch decorative patterns.multiple stitch zigzag, nin home sewing, a simple machinestitch pattern of alternating diagonal segments with eachsegment of two or more stitches having equal length andwidth.DISCUSSIONA simple machine stitch pattern is made by the needlemaking two or more stitches in one dir
18、ection before completing thesame number of stitches in the opposite direction as the fabric movesunder the presser foot. (Compare simple stitch zigzag.) (See Fig. 1.)Applications of the multiple and single stitch zigzag patterns aresimilar.simple machine stitch pattern, nin home sewing, a repeat-ing
19、 segment of machine stitches, with each repeat consistingof one or more stitches long. (Compare complex machinestitch pattern.)DISCUSSIONSimple machine stitch patterns include straight stitch,stitch zigzag and multiple stitch zigzag.stitch, nthe repeated unit formed by a sewing thread(s)through a ma
20、terial or materials such as a textile fabric.stitching, na series of stitches embodied in a material ormaterials such as a woven, knitted or textile fabric forornamental purposes, forming a seam, attaching functionalitems, or finishing an edge.straight stitch, nin home sewing, a simple machine stitc
21、hpattern of straight, single stitch segments of equal length.The simple machine stitch pattern is formed by the down andup movement of the needle while the fabric moves throughthe feed mechanisms in either the forward or reversedirection (see Fig. 2).DISCUSSIONIt may be used for joining two or more
22、pieces of fabric,sewing in zippers, top stitching, basting or gathering.stretch stitch, nin home sewing, a complex machine stitchpattern or of various combinations of straight stitch, singlestitch zigzag or multiple stitch zigzag. It is produced bycoordinated motions of needle and feed as the fabric
23、 movesthrough the feed mechanism in the forward or reversedirection (see Fig. 4.).DISCUSSIONThe stretch stitch provides stretch or give in a line ofstitching, and may also be used when applying lace, elastic and biastape on stretch or knitted fabrics for lingerie and activewear, or whenrepairing gar
24、ments at points or along lines (as in seamlines) of highstress.FIG. 3 Lockstitch FormationsD 5646 96 (2002)2ASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised t
25、hat determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapp
26、roved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you
27、feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual r
28、eprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).NOTE 1The repeating units are circled.FIG. 4 Stretch Stitch ExamplesD 5646 96 (2002)3