1、BRITISH STANDARD BS5131-3.5: 1978 Methods of test for Footwear and footwear materials Part 3: Uppers, textiles and threads Section 3.5 The break/pipiness test NOTEIt is recommended that this Section should be read in conjunction with the information in the General introduction to BS5131, published s
2、eparately. UDC685.31:620.1:685.312.142.2:620.191.353BS5131-3.5:1978 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authority ofthe Executive Board on 29 December1978 BSI12-1999 The following BSI references relate to the wor
3、k on this standard: Committee referenceCLT/7 Draft for comment77/35007 DC ISBN 0 580 10488 5 A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does no
4、t of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 and2 and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the a
5、mendment table on the inside front cover. Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS5131-3.5:1978 BSI 12-1999 i Contents Page 1 Scope 1 2 Principle 1 3 Apparatus 1 4 Test pieces 1 5 Procedure 1 6 Expression of results 1 7 Test report 2ii blankBS5131-3.5:1978 BSI 12-1999 1
6、1 Scope This Section describes a method for assessing the amount of wrinkling of the grain of upper leather, orthe top surface of a synthetic material, when it isfolded inwards to a standard curvature. This method is applicable to whole skins, sheet material, cut components and made-up shoes. NOTESe
7、ction3.5 is based on SATRA 1)MethodPM36. 2 Principle The test piece is made to conform to the outside curvature of a mandrel, grain side inwards, and the wrinkling, as seen through a window in the mandrel, is graded by comparing it with a set of standards which constitute the break/pipiness scale. 3
8、 Apparatus 3.1 The scale, consisting of a replica in black plastics of the master scale of eight samples of side leather, thickness1.3mm, bent grain inwards in a10mm radius trough. The degree of wrinkling increases as the scale is ascended, thus sample1 has the finest wrinkles and sample8 the most c
9、oarse wrinkles. 3.2 The mandrel, a semi-cylindrical metal tube of external radius8.7mm, fitted with a handle and a rectangular window through which the test piece is viewed. This window is20mm long and10mm wide (chord length10mm). The radius of curvature of8.7mm is also that of the grain surface of
10、the replicas of the break scale. NOTEThe SATRA break/pipiness scale and mandrel (STD.174) are available from SATRA, SATRA House, Rockingham Road, Kettering, Northants NN169JH. 4 Test pieces The test may be carried out on skins or pieces of material or the vamps of shoes without cutting out a test pi
11、ece. If a test piece is desired, cut a rectangle approximately40mm 60mm in each principal direction. 5 Procedure 5.1 Carefully form the upper material into a U-shape around the mandrel with the60mm dimension parallel to the length of the mandrel. No pressure should be applied to the back of the area
12、 which is visible through the rectangular window, nor should the material be tensioned as it is formed around the mandrel. When wrinkling across the vamp of a shoe is being assessed, hold the mandrel across the vamp with the window approximately at the centre of the crease line produced by walking (
13、or the expected position of this line). It is usually necessary to insert the other hand in the shoe to form the vamp correctly round the mandrel. 5.2 Compare the wrinkling of the grain seen through the window of the mandrel with that of the standard replicas in the scale and express the result as i
14、ndicated in6.1. 5.3 Where a piece of material is being tested, a second test should not be carried out using the same area as the first. NOTEUse of a test piece trough. If desired the wrinkling of a test piece may be produced by inserting it in a trough instead of by wrapping it around the mandrel.
15、The trough for this purpose should be semi-circular with a radius of curvature of10mm. Cut each test piece25mm 31mm. Insert a test piece in the trough so that the25mm dimension is parallel to the length of the trough and the flesh or equivalent side is in contact with the curved surface at all point
16、s. Assess the wrinkling by comparing the test piece with the standard replicas of the scale. 6 Expression of results 6.1 If the wrinkles produced in the material under test match those of a replica in the standard scale, then the number of that replica is the “BP” value of the material. If the wrink
17、les do not correspond closely to those of a replica in the scale then report the “BP” value as a half unit between the two standard replicas which do not quite match with the material under test. Thus if a test piece is not as severely wrinkled as replica number5, but is more wrinkled than number4 t
18、he result is reported as4.5 “BP” units. A halfway number does not imply that the wrinkling falls exactly halfway between that of two standards in the scale, but only that it lies somewhere between them. 1) Shoe and Allied Trades Research Association.BS5131-3.5:1978 2 BSI 12-1999 6.2 Record the resul
19、ts from test pieces cut in different directions separately. The direction of test is regarded as the direction at right angles to the length of the mandrel, i.e.the direction parallel to the shorter side of a cut out test piece. For leather this should be expressed, where known, as parallel or perpe
20、ndicular to the backbone (or along, and across respectively), for roll materials as along and across the roll, or in the case of woven fabrics as warp and weft. 7 Test report Include the following items in the test report: a) the break/pipiness values expressed in accordance with clause6; b) the nat
21、ure and full identification of the sample(s); c) reference to the method of test (i.e.BS5131-3.5); d) the date of testing.blankBS5131-3.5: 1978 BSI 389 Chiswick High Road London W4 4AL BSIBritishStandardsInstitution BSI is the independent national body responsible for preparing BritishStandards. It
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