1、BRITISH STANDARD BS7318:1990 Specification for Industrial sewing threads made from linen (flax) or cottonBS7318:1990 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee, was published under the authority of the Board of BSI and comes
2、 into effect on 30November1990 BSI 09-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/28 Draft for comment89/36727 DC ISBN 0 580 18488 9 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by the Texti
3、les and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/28, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Association of Clothing Machinery Manufacturers British Clothing Industry Association British Polyolefin Textiles Association Consumer Policy Committee of BSI
4、Flax and Linen Association (GB) Furniture Industry Research Association Linen Sewing Thread Manufacturers Association Man-made Fibres Producers Committee Ministry of Defence SATRA Footwear Technology Centre Textile Institute Textile Research Council Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date
5、CommentsBS7318:1990 BSI 09-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Manufacture and physical requirements 1 3 Sampling in cases of dispute 1 4 Statement of conformity 1 Appendix A Supplementary information for MoD contracts 5 Table 1 Linen threads for us
6、e in footwear 2 Table 2 Linen threads for general purpose use 3 Table 3 Cotton sewing threads for general purpose use 3 Table 4 Minimum colour fastness requirements for general purposefastdyedcotton threads 4 Table 5 Sampling in cases of dispute 4 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS7318:199
7、0 ii BSI 09-1999 Foreword This British Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee. Whilst BS6157 specifies requirements for industrial sewing threads made wholly or partly from synthetic fibres, this standard introduces requirements for ran
8、ges of industrial sewing threads made from linen or cotton. Information specifically required by the Ministry of Defence (MoD) is given inAppendix A. At the time of publication of this British Standard, no corresponding International Standard exists. Product certification. Users of this British Stan
9、dard are advised to consider the desirability of third party certification of product conformity with this British Standard based on testing and continuing surveillance, which may be coupled with assessment of a suppliers quality systems against the appropriate Part of BS5750. Enquiries as to the av
10、ailability of third party certification schemes will be forwarded by BSI to the Association of Certification Bodies. If a third party certification scheme does not already exist, users should consider approaching an appropriate body from the list of Association members. A British Standard does not p
11、urport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside fron
12、t cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to6, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS7318:1990 BSI 09-1999 1 1 Scope This British Standard spec
13、ifies requirements for industrial sewing threads manufactured from the following substrates: a) linen sewing threads manufactured from flax fibre (Linum usitatissimum); b) cotton sewing threads manufactured from cotton fibre (Gossypium). NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standar
14、d are listed on the inside back cover. 2 Manufacture and physical requirements 2.1 Alkali solubility and pH of linen (flax) threads 2.1.1 The residual alkali solubility shall not exceed12.5% when tested in accordance with BS6645. NOTELinen threads should have been reduced in mass by not less than10%
15、 by boiling. 2.1.2 The pH of the aqueous extract, when determined in accordance with the hot water method in BS3266, shall be not less than5.0 and not greater than8.0. 2.2 Rot-proofing (linen and cotton threads) All welt threads shall be rot-proofed and if requested by the purchaser, other threads s
16、hall be rot-proofed. NOTE 1Attention is drawn to Interim Defence Standard,68-41 1)“Performance requirements for textile rot-proofing agents,” which gives guidance on alternative agents. NOTE 2Substances which are known to negate the effect of rot-proofing treatments should not be used as finishes in
17、 treated threads. 2.3 Physical requirements Threads shall comply with the appropriate requirements ofTable 1 toTable 3. The tables show the main threads available. Other threads may be manufactured and the breaking strengths for these threads shall be obtained by interpolation from tex values. NOTE
18、1Threads should be reasonably free from knots and other defects. NOTE 2Threads should have the uniformity of thickness and construction that is required for use on the appropriate types of sewing machines. NOTE 3Different finishes such as soft, mercerized, glac and waxed may also be available for sp
19、ecific uses. 2.4 Colour fastness NOTE 1Colour fastness requirements for linen sewing threads should be subject to agreement between the interested parties. Colourfast general purpose cotton sewing threads for use in the garment trade, shall comply with the requirements given inTable 4. NOTE 2In some
20、 cases threads which do not comply with the requirements of this standard in respect of colour fastness, or threads with special fastness requirements, may be available or required. Some examples are as follows. a) Some pale and bright shades may fall a point below the colour fastness to light requi
21、rement. b) Higher light fastness requirements may be required for certain end uses. c) Threads to be used for contrast stitching may have other special fastness requirements which are higher than the minimum requirements specified. Additional requirements, for example, for perspiration fastness, chl
22、orinated water, etc.using the tests in BS1006 may apply. 3 Sampling in cases of dispute In cases of dispute sampling shall be in accordance withTable 5. Each unit in the test sample shall be selected at random from a different package in the inspection lot. 4 Statement of conformity If required by t
23、he purchaser, a statement of conformity shall be provided with the following particulars: a) the name, trademark or other means of identification of the manufacturer or supplier; b) the number and date of this British Standard, i.e.BS7318:1990 2) ; c) the thread type and thread designation in accord
24、ance withTable 1 to3, e.g.6 cord linen welt thread; d) indication of whether the threads comply with the colour fastness requirements of2.4. 1) Obtainable from the Ministry of Defence, Directorate of Standardization, Montrose House,187 George Street, Glasgow G11 YU. 2) Marking BS7318:1990 on or in r
25、elation to a product represents a manufacturers declaration of conformity, i.e.a claim by or on behalf of the manufacturer that the product meets the requirements of the standard. The accuracy of the claim is therefore solely the responsibility of the person making the claim. Such a declaration is n
26、ot to be confused with third party certification of conformity, which may also be desirable.BS7318:1990 2 BSI 09-1999 Table 1 Linen threads for use in footwear Thread type Thread designation Approximate resultant linear density (determined in accordance with BS947 and BS2010 a Minimum average breaki
27、ng strength (determined in accordance with BS1932-1) Unwaxed Waxed Linen lockstitch based on Ne L 25yarn Cord 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 Tex 200 270 335 405 470 540 610 675 810 N 52 70 92 108 128 144 164 180 216 N 42 56 74 86 102 115 131 144 173 Linen welt or linen shuttle based on Ne L 19yarn 3 4 5 6 7 8
28、9 10 11 12 265 355 445 545 620 710 800 885 975 1060 68 96 120 144 168 200 216 244 268 292 54 77 96 115 134 160 173 195 214 234 Linen blake based on Ne L 17.5yarn 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 190 290 385 480 580 675 770 870 965 1060 1160 40 72 96 132 160 188 216 240 268 292 320 32 58 77 106 128 150 173 1
29、92 214 234 256 a The values shown for resultant linear density are approximate owing to the effects of variations of input, twist uptake, dyestuff uptake, amount of finish, etc.BS7318:1990 BSI 09-1999 3 Table 2 Linen threads for general purpose use Table 3 Cotton sewing threads for general purpose u
30、se Thread type Thread designation Approximate resultant linear density (determined in accordance with BS947 and BS2010 a Minimum average breaking strength (determined in accordance with BS1932-1) No. Cord Unwaxed Waxed Linen machine based on yarn size (Ne L ) and numberof cords 12 14 16 18 25 30 35
31、40 50 60 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Tex 420 360 315 275 200 170 145 125 100 85 N 110 90 80 70 52 44 36 32 24 20 N 88 72 64 56 42 35 29 26 19 16 a The values shown for resultant linear density are approximate owing to the effects of variations of input, twist uptake, dyestuff uptake, amount of finish etc. T
32、hread designation Compliance values Contractors ticket number (calculated in accordance with BS4134) Approximate resultant linear density (determined in accordance with BS947 and BS2010) a Minimum average breaking strength (determined in accordance with BS1932-1) Type 200 180 160 140 120 100 90 80 7
33、0 60 50 40 36 30 24 20 18 16 dtex 97 110 120 140 160 195 215 245 280 325 390 485 540 650 810 975 1080 1220 N 2.0 2.2 2.5 2.8 3.3 4.0 4.4 5.0 5.7 6.6 8.0 10.0 11.0 13.0 17.0 20.0 22.0 25.0 a The values for resultant linear density are approximate owing to the effects of variations of input, twist upt
34、ake, dyestuff uptake, amount of finish etc.BS7318:1990 4 BSI 09-1999 Table 4 Minimum colour fastness requirements for general purpose fast dyed cotton threads Table 5 Sampling in cases of dispute Agency Change in colour Staining Method of test Light Washing Water Dry cleaning Rating 4 34 34 34 Ratin
35、g 4 4 4 BS1006-B02 BS1006-C06, test B2S BS1006-E01 BS1006-D01 Number of units in inspectionlot Number of units sampled Not exceeding100 Exceeding100 but not exceeding300 Exceeding300 but not exceeding500 Exceeding500 but not exceeding1000 Greater than1000 2(or all, if2 or less) 4 6 8 10 NOTEA unit i
36、s an individual cop, cone etc.BS7318:1990 BSI 09-1999 5 Appendix A Supplementary information for MoD contracts Sulphur black dyes are not to be used.6 blankBS7318:1990 BSI 09-1999 Publications referred to BS947, Specification for a universal system for designating linear density of textiles (Tex Sys
37、tem). BS1006, Methods of test for colour fastness of textiles and leather. BS1932, Methods of testing the strength of yarns from packages. BS1932-1, Determination of breaking strength and extension. BS2010, Method for determination of the linear density of yarns from packages. BS2087, Preservative t
38、reatments for textiles. BS2087-1, Specification for treatments. BS3266, Methods of test for determination of conductivity, pH, water-soluble matter, chloride and sulphate in aqueous extracts of textile materials. BS4134, Method for designation of ticket numbers of industrial sewing threads. BS5750,
39、Quality systems 3) . BS6157, Specification for industrial sewing threads made wholly or partly from synthetic fibres 3) . BS6645, Method for determination of alkali solubility of flax materials. 3) Referred to in the foreword only.BS7318:1990 BSI 389 Chiswick High Road London W4 4AL BSIBritishStanda
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