1、raising standards worldwideNO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAWBSI Standards PublicationBS EN 13089:2011Mountaineering equipment Ice-tools Safetyrequirements and test methodsLicensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy,
2、(c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 13089:2011. Itsupersedes BS EN 13089:1999 which is withdrawn.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other RecreationalEq
3、uipment - Mountaineering Equipment.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. BSI 2011ISBN 978 0 580 57734 5
4、ICS 97.220.40Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31 March 2011.Amendments issued since publicationDate Text affectedLicensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHAN
5、GE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 13089 March 2011 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:1999English Version Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods Equipement dalpinism
6、e et descalade - Outils glace - Exigences de scurit et mthodes dessai Bergsteigerausrstung - Eisgerte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 5 February 2011. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which
7、stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This Europ
8、ean Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are
9、 the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden
10、, Switzerland and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2011 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Re
11、f. No. EN 13089:2011: ELicensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3Introduction .41 Scope 52 Normative references 53 Terms and definitions .54 Safety requirements 64.1 Edges 64.2 Shaft
12、strength .64.3 Strength in the load direction YY .64.4 Strength in the load direction XX .64.5 Pick strength 75 Test methods 75.1 Preparation of test samples 75.2 Apparatus .75.3 Procedure .75.3.1 Test sample 75.3.2 Edges 75.3.3 Shaft strength .85.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY .95.3.5 Streng
13、th in the load direction XX .95.3.6 Pick strength . 106 Marking 117 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/
14、686/EEC . 15Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 13089:2011) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equi
15、pment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by September 2011, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by September 20
16、11. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 13089:1999. This document has been prepared under a ma
17、ndate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In comparison with the previous
18、edition EN 13089:1999, the following significant changes have been made: a) an editorial revision has been carried on; b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls; c) there is a new classification of ice-tools; d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted; e) the test method for shaft st
19、rength has been revised; f) Subclause 5.3.7 was deleted; g) there is an additional marking. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, C
20、zech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHIN
21、A STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 4 Introduction This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des Accociations dAlpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a packa
22、ge of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mou
23、ntaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of t
24、he referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment Tape Safety requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 ice-tool hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or
25、 ice and/or rock which can also be used as an anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick NOTE See Figure 1. 3.2 type 1 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.3 type 2 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intend
26、ed for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice 3.4 type 1 pick pick intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.5 type 2 pick pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011
27、 (E) 6 Key 1 Shaft of the ice-tool 2 Pick of the ice-tool Figure 1 Main parts of an ice-tool 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Edges All edges of the ice-tool with which the users hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges. 4.2 Shaft strengt
28、h When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated fKvalue. 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance wit
29、h 5.3.4, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose. 4.4 Strength in the load direction XX When tested in the load direction XX (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.5, a) the shaft shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work
30、loose; Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 7 c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 10 mm after removal of the load. Key 1 Pick 2 Shaft XX/YY Load direction
31、s Figure 2 Load directions XX and YY 4.5 Pick strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.6, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose; c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force shall not exceed 70 mm or the calculated fK
32、value after removal of the force. 5 Test methods 5.1 Preparation of test samples For the strength tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 the test samples shall be conditioned for at least 1 h at ( 30 5) C. The tests shall be carried out at (23 5) C. Each test shall begin within 3 min from removal from conditioning. 5
33、.2 Apparatus For the tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 use a tape in accordance with EN 565 with a width of (15 2) mm. 5.3 Procedure 5.3.1 Test sample Carry out each test on a test sample not previously subjected to any load. 5.3.2 Edges Check by visual and tactile examination that the requirements of 4.1 are me
34、t. Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 8 5.3.3 Shaft strength Support the shaft horizontally and load it in the direction XX as shown in Figure 3. Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 Tape Figure 3 Testing of
35、 shaft strength If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange the tapes as shown in Figure 3 with the load applied at the mid length of the ice-tool. Apply a force of F = (2 500 1250+) N without shock and maintain for (60 5) s. If the ice tool is not long enough, reduce the 250 mm to “lk“. lkshall be as l
36、ong as possible in reducing steps of 10 mm. Then calculate the force Fkto be applied as follows: Fk= F 250/lk(1) Calculate the maximum permissible permanent deformation fkin mm as follows: fk= 3 (lk/250)2(2) where lkis the distance in mm from the middle of the shaft to the middle of the outer tapes,
37、 being positioned at the ends of the shaft. During the test, according to the shape of the shaft, the ice-tool may turn. If so, carry out the test in the stable position attained after rotation. For a straight shaft, rotation shall be prevented. If the ice-tool is fitted with a telescopic shaft, car
38、ry out the test at the length stated in the manufacturers instructions for use as an anchor point for belaying in snow. Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force. Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN
39、 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 9 5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY Support and load the test samples as shown in Figure 4. Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 TapeaPoint K Figure 4 Testing of strength in the load direction YY If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange a tape as shown in Figure 4 with t
40、he force applied at 500 mm from point K in the direction YY. Apply a force of: F = (300600+) N for type 1 ice-tool, F = (450900+) N for type 2 ice-tool, without shock and maintain for (60 5) s. If the ice-tool is not long enough reduce the 500 mm to lk. Then calculate the force Fkto be applied as fo
41、llows: Fk= F 500/lk(3) where lkis the distance in mm from point K to the middle of the tape, being positioned at the end of the shaft. Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force and determine by manual inspection if any component of the ice tool worked loose. 5.3.5 St
42、rength in the load direction XX Support the test sample by means of a tape loop and a rounded stop as shown in Figure 5, so that the ice-tool pick lies normal to the direction of the applied force. Ensure that rotation of the test sample is prevented. Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STAN
43、DARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 10 Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 Tape loop of 50 mm width 2 Tape Figure 5 Testing of the strength in the load direction XX The line of application of the force shall be at (100 20+) mm from the nearest edge of the
44、 supporting tape (see Figure 5). Apply a force of: F = (12505002+) N for type 1 ice-tools, F = (20000004+) N for type 2 ice-tools, without shock and maintain for (60 5) s. Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force and determine by manual inspection if any component o
45、f the ice tool worked loose. 5.3.6 Pick strength Clamp the test sample between two vice jaws with a hardness greater than that of the test sample, with an edge radius of (2 0,1) mm and a depth of (25 0,2) mm as shown in Figure 6. If the pick is not flat in cross-section, the manufacturer may provide
46、 clamps, provided these clamps do not artificially increase the apparent strength of the pick. Set the shaft such that a line drawn between the mid-points of the ends of the shaft is parallel to the upper edges of the vice jaws. Apply without shock a moment of: T = (1,2042+) Nm for type 1 pick, T =
47、(3060+) Nm for type 2 pick, Licensed Copy: Wang Bin, ISO/EXCHANGE CHINA STANDARDS, 01/07/2011 07:12, Uncontrolled Copy, (c) BSIBS EN 13089:2011EN 13089:2011 (E) 11 on a test sample with a lever length of (33030+) mm and maintain for (60 5) s. If a lever of length 330 mm is not achievable, use the lo
48、ngest possible lever length, kl . If the lever length of 330 mm is not achievable, calculate the maximum permissible permanent deformation kf in mm as follows: 33070kklf = (4) Dimensions in millimetres Key 1 Mid points of the ends of the shaft 2 Point of application of the load a = b l lever length
49、Figure 6 Clamping of pick Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force and determine by manual inspection if any component of the ice tool worked loose. 6 Marking Ice-tools shall be marked clearly, indelibly and durably with at least the following: a) name of the manufacturer or its authorized representative in the European Union; b) category to which the ice-tool belongs in accordance with 3.2 and 3.3:
