1、MIL-HDBK-156A _I. 15 September 1995 SUPERSEDING 1 February 1967 MIL-HDBK-156 MILITARY STANDARDIZATION HANDBOOK GLOSSARY 0F.MILITARY CLOTHING FABRICATION TERMS AMSC N/A FSC 84GP DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Licensed by Information Handling Services
2、. MIL-HDBK-LSbA 9999970 020103Y 477 = MIL-HDBK-156A DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE WASHINGTON, DC 20301 MIL-HDBK-156A Glossary of Military Clothing Fabrication Tenns 1. This standardization handbook was developed by the Department of Defense. 2. This publication was approved 15 September 1995 for printing an
3、d inclusion in the Military Standardization Handbook series. 3. This document provides basic and necessary information on military clothing terminology and definitions commonly used both in the Government and the clothing industry, including manufacturing operations and materials. It will provide va
4、luable information and guidance to personnel concerned with the preparation of specifications and the procurement of military clothing items. The handbook is not intended to be referenced in purchase specifications except for informational purposes, nor shall it supersede any specification requireme
5、nts. 4. Every effort has been made to reflect the latest information on military clothing manufacturing terms, operations, and practices. It is the intent to review this handbook periodically to insure its completeness and currency. Users of this document are encouraged to report any errors discover
6、ed and any recommendations for changes of inclusion to the Defense Personnel Support Center, ATTN: DPSC-FQSC, 2800 South 20th Street, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19145-5099. ii Licensed by Information Handling Services MIL-HDBK-35bA 9999970 0203035 303 MIL-HDBK-156A FOREWORD This handbook may be used
7、 by the military services as a guide when preparing military specifications and other Government documents for military clothing items. Additionally, the document will provide assistance and guidance to clothing industry bidders and suppliers. Stitches, seams, and stitchings, referred to in this han
8、dbook conform to Federal Standard No. 751. Consolidating and defining basic and commonly used clothing manufacturing words and phrases will: Promote and establish a clear, easily understood, and effective communication system. Tend to eliminate misunderstandings and errors by improving ccinmunicatio
9、ns between the Government and suppliers. Assist in the development and application of a timely, efficient, and more economic procurement system for military supplies. Enhance product qiiality and contribute to industrial programs. This handbook endeavors to define terms and phrases used both in Gove
10、rnment procurement documents and by the manufacturing elements in the clothing industry. It should be noted, however, that the glossary should not be considered as the final or complete effort in this area. New materials, processes, machinery, and methods along with different meanings and interpreta
11、tions applied to existing words and phrases will always result in changes, additions, and deletions being both valid and desirable. Ultimately, the yoal of this document is the successful communication of thoughts and ideas relating to the manufacture and procurement of specifiea ailitarl- clothing
12、items. This objective wiil have been reached when both writers and readers of Government procurement documents come to the same conclusions, understandings, and interpretations of the definitions of words and phrases listed in this glossary. iii Licensed by Information Handling Services _ MIL-HDBK-L
13、ShA 9999970 0203036 24T = MIL-HDBK-156A DEFINITIONS ABRASION: Wearing away or damaging a textile material by rubbing it against itself or another surface. ABUT: Positioning fabrics end to end or side to side, with edges touching. ACCORDION PLEATS: A series of expandable, sharp edges, upright folds o
14、f uniform depth pressed in by machine; serves as an ornamentation, provides a means of adding fullness, or both. AIGUILLETTE: Ornate, generously glided shoulder cord, loop, or tag used for ornamentation on certain military uniforms. ALIGNMENT: (1) Superimposing material edges; (2) Arranging parts or
15、 components in a corresponding line. For example, bringing the edges of material in a lay to one side or placing buttons and buttonholes in a corresponding position on the garment. ANKLET: (1) Rib knitted cuff or band stitched to end of garment leg opening; (2) Type of short sock for the foot. APPAR
16、EL FINDINGS AND NOTIONS: Miscellaneous components and items necessary to sew and fabricate garments and clothing items. Buttons, dressmaker pins, needles, shoulder pads, pocketing, hair nets, hooks and eyes, sewing kits, and other items are examples of this type of findings. See “trimmings“. APPAREL
17、 WOOL: General terms applied to all wools used in fabrics for fabrication into apparel, clothing, and textile items. The term is also used to describe a category of wools for tariff purposes. APPLIQUE STITCH: Stitching used to apply fabric pieces to a background cloth, usually for decorative purpose
18、s. ARMSCYE: Depth of the armhole, specifically in tailoring and dressmaking. The shape or outline of the armhole. ARMHOLE SHIELD: Fabric or other material, shaped, and attached to the underarm section of a garment for protection against body perspiration. See “shields, sweat“. ARMHOLE: An opening fo
19、r the arm in the body of a garment. ARROWHEAD: A triangular design with hand or machine stitches, converging in the cenxer of each angle of the triangle. Used for decoration, for reinforcement, or for both, at the ends of a piped, bound, or welt pocket opening. 1 Licensed by Information Handling Ser
20、vices MIL-HDBK-LSbA 9 9999970 0203037 18b 9 MIL-HDBK-156A DEFINITIONS - Continued BACK OF FABRIC: Reverse side of fabric to the “face“. The under or back of a piece of cloth. BACK LENGTH: A garment length dimension often specified for the various sizes in a tariff. The measurement is usually taken a
21、long the center back seamline. BACKSTITCH: A method of reinforcing an end, or end, or a row of stitching by reversing the stitching direction with the stitching continuous and superimposed on the original row of stitching for a specified distance. BACKTACK: Method of reinforcing the end or ends of a
22、 row of stitching. It consists of stitching continuously not less than three short superimposed rows of stitching by moving the cloth forward, back, and forward beneath the slightly raised presser foot. BAND: Strip of fabric used to hold, ornament, or complete part of the garment. BARTACK: A compact
23、 group of stitches made on an automatic bartacking machine or by hand. It consists of a number of parallel or superimposed stitches with cover stitches. It is used to reinforce points of strain. BASIC MATERIAL: Cloth, or textile material from which the main body and principal parts of a garment are
24、fabricated. BASKET STITCH: Stitch in which the threads running in one way alternately pass above and below the cross threads. It is a hand operation. BASTE: Sewing operation that uses a long or short, loose stitch that produces a temporary holding action. It is a hand or machine operation. BATT (or)
25、 BATTING: Slightly felted or matted layers of carded textile fibers used for stufzing, padding, or quilting. BELLOWS POCKET: Cloth pouch with pleats along the sides and bottom to increase holding capacity. It is attached to the outside of the garment. BELTING: One-half to two-inch wide pliable plast
26、ic or stiff fabric such as buckram, canvas, or grosgrain ribbon used at the waist of skirts and olher garments to keep them firmly in position. 2 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-HDBK-35bA m 9999970 O203038 O32 m MIL-HDBK-15 63- DEFINIIIONS - Continued BELT LOOP: Strip of material attach
27、ed to trousers, coats, and other garments for the purpose of receiving and holding belts. BELT RETAINER:. Strip of material, one end of which is fastened to a garment and the other end fastened to the belt, or a short loop fastened to a garment for the purpose of preventing the belt from separating
28、from the garment. BIAS CUT FABRIC: Strips of cloth that are knifed or sheared from conventional rolls or bolts of cloth. The strips are cut diagonal to the warp and filling (wale and course) directions. The cutting line begins at the lower left corner and ends at the upper right corner, and can be c
29、ontrolled to form any desired angle. Maximum flexibility in the bias cut strip is usually attained by cutting at a 45 degree angle. BIGHT: Designates the depth of stitches for buttonholes, eyelets, and the depth of overedge stitching. BINDER: Sewing machine attachment for guiding and folding bias cu
30、t or straight cut tape over the edges of textile material before stitching. Also, this applies to the attachment for feeding (See “bound edge“ and “folder“). BINDING: A finish for an edge consisting of a single strip of fabric cut on the bias, straight cross-wise, or length-wise, folded, and coverin
31、g an edge approximately the same amount on the top and under sides. BLACK CHEMICAL FINISH: Dark organic or inorganic film or coating applied to metal eyelets, grommets, and the like. BLANKET STITCHING: -czredge stitching, stitch class 500. It is used on blankets to prevent raw edges from fraying and
32、 loosening. BLEND FABRIC: Cloth constructed of blended yarns, or with warp and filling yarns composed of different fibers. BLENDED YARN: A single yarn spun from a blend of mixture of different fiber species; or yarn spun from a combination of various natural fiber, man-made fibers, or both natural a
33、nd man- made fibers. BLIND STITCH: Stitch that may or may not show on the right side of the fabric. It is a machine or hand operation. The stitching type is EFc-1, using stitch classes 100, 300, 400, and 500. 3 Licensed by Information Handling Services NIL-HDBK-L5bA W 9999970 0202039 T59 MIL-HDBK-15
34、6A DEFINITIONS - Continued BLOCKED AND PRESSED: Final operation that shapes and finishes a fabricated garment. This is accomplished by placing the garment on a fixed form and applying pressure, heat, and moisture. BOBBIN: Metal, paper, or plastic spool-like device that holds the under thread in a lo
35、ck stitch (stitch class 300). BODKIN: Needle-like device for drawing tape or cord through hems, eyelets or tunnels that have been stitched on garment parts, and for attaching buttons with shanks. One end of this tool is blunt and the other end is eyed. BONDED FABRIC: Textile material made from webs
36、or mats of fibers held together with self-adhering fibers usually thermoplastic or other cementing and holding mediums (See “laminated cloth). BONDING (or) LAMINATING FABRIC: A special, fusible interlining used between plies of fabric. BOOK SEAM: Seam formed by (a) turning the edge of each two plies
37、 of material and stitching the turned portions to the body of the material with one row of stitches; (b) superimposing the two plies and seaming a specified distance from the turned edges with one row of stitches, and (c) opening the two plies and turning the edge of each ply under the body to finis
38、h seam. SSba-3, using stitch classes 100, 300, or 400. Stitch type BOUND EDGE: An edge finished by means of a binding. BOX PLEAT: A double pleat with material folded under at each side. BOX STITCH: Lines of stitchings forming a rectangle or square with or without an “X“ design of stitching. BRAID: F
39、lat, round, or tubular narrow fabric made by intertwining a single set of yarns to form a definite pattern. Also, it describes any textile material used for binding and trimming. BREAKLINE (or) ROLL LINE: Line along which collar, lapels, and other parts are folded, creased, or rolled. BRIDLE: Stay t
40、ape for coat front lapels positioned in back of breakline from gorge tc bottom of lapel. BUCKRAM: Inexpensive, heavily-sized, cotton cloth used for interlinings in garments. 4 Licensed by Information Handling Services MIL-HDBK-15bA 9 9999970 0201040 770 9 MIL-HDBK-156A DEFINITIONS - Continued BULGE:
41、 Abnormal or disfiguring protrusion of material in a fabricated garment or item. BULKY EDGES: Stitched and finished textile material edges that appear thick, distorted, awkward, and clumsy. BUNDLE: (1) Tied stack of cut parts or pieces of a garment in the process of manufacture; (2) Quantity of part
42、ially sewed garment parts tied, stacked, or boxed to keep them together as a unit. BUNDLE SYSTEM: Stitching rccm production system in which cut garment components are tied or assembled into a package. Operator carries or moves the unit by the machine, completes the stitching operations and returns t
43、he completed work to a storage area. Handling is sometimes performed by service personnel. BUTTON: Round, holed, or shanked disk made of various materials including metal, sheet, wood, bone, and plastic. Device is used as ornamentation or tr! close openings in clothing and textile items. BUTTON LOOP
44、: Predetermined length of cloth or cord formed into a loop and attached to edges of garment parts opposite or in line with closure buttons. BUTTONHOLE: Cut openings ir? material that receive and retain ornamental or closure-type buttons. Edges of the openings may be stitched, bound, or piped. BUTTON
45、HOLE EYELET: The rouzd cut out end of a buttonhole in which the shank (center of button) rests when a button and buttonhole is engaged. BUTTONHOLE FACING: Srq “facing“. BUTTONHOLE MACHINE: Semi-automatic device that simultaneously cuts and sews “cut-first and “cut-after“ types of openings in textile
46、 materials. BUTTONHOLE PURLING: A series of small thread loops worked around a cut opening of a buttonhole. BUTTONHOLE STITCH: Stitch used to secure and bind the edges of cut openings in textile materials. BUTTON SHANK: Stem or post part located on the underside or end of the disk. Shank is holed fo
47、r sewing to garments. 5 Licensed by Information Handling ServicesMIL-HDBK-LSbA PI 9999970 020LO4L 607 MIL-HDBK-156A DEFINITIONS - Continued BUTTON SIZE: The diameter of the button. Size of button is based on 1/8 inch increments. Also referred to as “Button Lignes“, 40 lignes equals one inch. CABLE N
48、UMBER: Standard color file number established by the Color Association of the United States, Inc. CABLE STITCH (or) CHAIN STITCH: Stitch made by interlooping two threads in a series of slipped loops. This stitch shall be stitch class 100. CENTER FRONT PLACKET (Shirt Front): Finish for the overlappin
49、g shirt front edge where buttonholes are made. Usually the back edge of the turn-under is caught in the outer fold of the pleat or tuck along the inner edge. CHOPPING: Two types of a cutting room process: (1) Pattern chopping in which the fabric is cut to the exact shape required; (2) Block chopping in which a fabric area containing the pattern shape is first cut and later subjected to a second cutting that produces the desired shape. CLICKER PRESS (or) MACHINE: Hand-operated, semi-automatic cutting device that uses shaped metal dies to punch or cut components from v
